Alan did you like doing your crank shaft or was it a PIA. I'm thinking of doing the same.

What crankshaft are you referring to?

The 429 truck crank.

I found one at a wholesale only place, called Adney at Performance crank in Detroit and he had the crank shipped to him. I provided Adney with the bob weight and he offset ground the crank, balanced it, turned the snout down and recut the groves, then had the crank cryogenically frozen and nitrided, then when completed he shipped it straight to my engine builder.
I think now days, you can get either a billit or a good forged crank with the stroke you want for the same money I spent on this crank.
Yes it was a little hassle but it has held up. Adney does great work and was a pleasure to work with. I know my engine builder was very impressed with the crank when he saw it.
At the time it was the only way to go, because I couldn't find a forged or billet crank with the 3.85 stroke. If I did it again, I'd try to go with a big bore/short stroke combo.

Doug,
What kind of rpm are you wanting to turn your motor? A stock crank will take some pretty good RPM if you keep the rods and pistons light. The truck cranks get expensive. I turned the snout on mine and cut the keyways and still ended up with alot of money in it. My truck hooks up good so I don't turn much over 7600. I could have got by with a stock crank. If your wanting to offset grind one the regular 429 cranks work good too.

Dennis

I would like do go to 7600rpm. But with stock crank and rods I cringe every time.

Yea the rods won't last long. They'll either break or pull the wrist pin out.What kind of pistons do you have?

Doug,

You can run a stock iron crank low to mid 8s without problems if you use a nice light piston and even better to use aluminum rods. We are using a stock iron crank in our Streetstock truck w/2.200 pins and aluminum rods running in a two bolt block. Austin(my Son) turned 8500 off the line a couple weeks ago.

Make sure the oil system is up to par. ESSENTIAL!

Bret

P.S. Dennis, do you plan to make it to Tuscumbia if it doesn't rain out again?

Yes sir I'll be there.

you may be using a stock crank, but is it a 3.85 stroke or has it been destroked and gone to a bigger bore. I may be all wet here, but wouldn't a shorter stroke be able to handle the higher rpm?

I do agree that stock rods are not up to the task. Also I'd make sure to have a balanced rotating assembly at those rpm.

I run a stock crank, eagle rods, not sure of the piston weights.... i turn 8000 max, most of the time 7600 and the bottom end hasn't been crack open to even change bearings since it was built ... and i've been running it for 5 years..... and when i bought it, it wasn't new...... so, take that for what it's worth...... oh yeah..... 2 bolt block, no girdle..... you'll need to change valve springs more often then bottom end stuff only turning 7600

below 8000, a modest build will last a very very long time

sean

Alan our StreetStock truck is 3.85 stroke with a 4.39 bore. Not near as extreme as my ProStreet deal was. The ProStreet motor was a short stroke big bore deal which had the 3.59 stroke.

I too agree under 8000 the bottom ends if assembled right last a long time.

Bret

I mite have a 429 steel crank reddy to go 2.200 rod size 3.800 stroke give me a call 812-498-6343

I too run a steel truck crank, cut and keyed snout ourselves and a buddy did the rest. I turn it 8800 9000 regularly, Years ago I ran stock cranks in two bolt blocks and had no problem turning 7500 8000 without an incident. Like Bret said keep it light and most important have an excellent oiling system.
Walt

Brett, what's your take on the oiling system? When is it beneficial to go to a dry sump? I know Walt is running an external pump with a wet sump and an oil accumulator and like he said turning 9000rpm. I've heard many people say a dry sump is the only way to go, but is it really a necessity?

AP

I didn't hear you....LOL Are your eagle rods H or I beams.
On this street project I'm building with the 4.15 crank, should I go with 6.605 rods or 6.8's? I see where Diamond offers a piston for both. Also, what type of piston and rings? My goal with this motor is 600hp max mainly a street toy with maybe 6 or 8 pulls a year. I want it to be streetable as I want to drive it on the street some. I'm thinking of something that runs on 93 but switch to 102 and change the timing and go pulling... Heads are ported PI's. I have a complete set of valve springs and a set of roller lifters and a set of full roller rockers for the project as well.

Any advice on the build Brett?

Alan, as you know I run the Peterson Fluid Systems Wide-Vac Single Stage Wet Sump Pump/Vacuum Pump, I also built my own oil pan and dropped the oil well below the crank. I run the IDT block which has better oiling capabilities and a dedicated line to the front of the block, The heads have a ball milled channel and chamfered holes for better drain back, all backed up by the accumulator on nitrogen regulated at 40lbs. When I pull the bearings they look great.
Walt

Alan,

So far I've only used wet sump pumps on all my builds, both BBC and Ford. On the high rev Ford deals I have started using Kaase oil pumps with A460 blocks. I have a customer turning his Ford 92-93 off the line at times and it's holding up very well with no issues and did so all last year when it was mine. Groden aluminum rods and steel truck crank. I just wish he'd get the truck lined out.

I may try dry sump some day on my own.

Bret

Thanks Brett. I have been running the Kaase pump for the second season now with good results. Do you recommend running a vac. pump with a wet sump application?

your not running the prostreet truck anymore?

Sold most of the motor, should be back up and running next season.

I would not use a vacuum pump with an in pan wet sump pan without a lot of testing on dyno.

Bret