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SIHH-2006 report, The new Master World Geographic

April 3 2006 at 6:04 AM
Jaw  (no login)

 
2pm, Geneva, 3rd. April 2006

Rushing between the presentations, here is reproduced from press kits only (All info as supplied by MJLC) My opinion:- stunning looking watch...




Master World Geographic,

all the time in the world – right here, right now.

The Master World Geographic makes no bones about the extent of its ambition: to display on a single watch face the local time and all 24 different timezones, as well as the precise time in one other selected timezone – simultaneously. This is the sort of technical and artistic challenge that
Jaeger-LeCoultre, the foremost Manufacture in the fine-watchmaking universe, relishes. Attaining a new summit in horological excellence, this high-precision, easily legible timepiece comes fitted with a new self-winding movement which offers the legendary toughness and reliability of all Jaeger-LeCoultre creations. Allying horological excellence with a design of restrained elegance, the Master World Geographic is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking that will only be released in two limited
series, in steel and pink gold.


The ‘Geographic’ codes of Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre has once again distinguished itself in one of its favourite domains – timezones – by creating a watch that is the master of all of time’s dimensions. Uniquely, the Master World Geographic can simultaneously display the local time and that at any other point on the globe thanks to its
exceptional dial, which offers its wearer the whole world on his wrist. Yet further time-travelling liberty is afforded by an indicator which shows all 24 timezones and makes it possible to find the hour in any part of the world in an instant. To do this, all the wearer has to do is consult the dial ring, which, in imitation of the Earth’s journey around the Sun, makes a constant rotation around the watch face. It is divided into two parts, one silvered, the other blue-tinted or charcoal-grey, to signify day or night: two red arrows pointing in opposite directions come together to create a date-change line. The date (linked to the local time) is displayed in a disc at 3 o’clock; the number 31 appears in red to highlight the need for a manual
adjustment to the display in months of fewer than 31 days. The power-reserve indicator has been optimised so that the narrowest part of its display window – treated in red, naturally enough – indicates the need to rewind the watch as soon as possible in order to avoid any loss of accuracy. The hands that trace their progress around the main dial are reserved for the display of the hour, minutes and seconds of the local time only.

Just reading about such a multiplicity of functions is enough to make one’s head spin. Knowing this, the Manufacture’s designers have skilfully drawn on a clear design hierarchy and a subtle play of colours in order to endow the Master World Geographic with an easy legibility.

Form in the service of function

Technological complexity calls for aesthetic clarity. The Master World Geographic is no exception to this rule. As the wearer’s eye moves from the exterior to the centre of the dial, the functions zoom in logically from universal time to local time. Using the 24-hour ring makes it possible to discover at a glance the approximate time anywhere in the world. The crown at 2 o’clock is then used to select a ‘privileged’ timezone, designated with the name of an emblematic city contained within it, so that the time there appears automatically in the subdial at 6 o’clock. And there’s a further brilliant refinement: the cities disc has a letter ‘S’ (standing for ‘summer time’) in the timezone immediately to the east of all cities which alternate between summer and winter times. A simple adjustment at the moment of the seasonal changeover is thus enough to maintain world-timekeeping accuracy during the half-year in question. The same is true of the southern hemisphere for the three emblematic cities that adopt summer time during
northern winter time.

The fruits of researchGeographic

In essence as well as in appearance, the Master World incorporates all the latest developments resulting from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ongoing research programme. The watch is driven by the new Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 936. Boasting peerless reliability and accuracy and beating to a rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour, this self-winding movement features a balance-wheel with variable inertia; the fact that it is adjusted by means of screws on the balance-selloe guarantees the setting’s long-term constancy. The winding rotor is mounted on ceramic balls which require neither lubrication nor
maintenance and which therefore increase the watch’s reliability. In addition, the geartrain teeth have a new, so-called ‘spyr’ form, which ensures gentler meshing and reduces to a minimum the energy loss caused by friction.

Another detail which sets the Master World Geographic apart from its rivals relates to its winding mechanism, which is unidirectional. Traditionally, tests carried out using equipment that simulates the wearing of a watch over a long period of time have suggested that winding in both directions was better.

However, when Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers carried out an experiment in which they actually wore the watches themselves rather than entrusting the task to automatons, they came to a quite different
conclusion. In fact, the experiment demonstrated that in real-life conditions winding in a single direction
was twice as effective as winding in both directions – the equivalent in effect of an outward journey
followed by a return. From this discovery was born a new, superior unidirectional winding system, and it
is this that is used in the Master World Geographic.
No progress is possible without rendering tribute to the masters of yesteryear: in the purest finewatchmaking
tradition, therefore, the movement visible beneath the Master World Geographic’s
sapphire-crystal bottom is decorated on the bridges and oscillating weight base with circular motifs in a
Côtes de Genève design. Like all really exceptional objects, only a limited number of Master World
Geographic watches will be produced. There will be two different editions: the first, of 1,500, in steel ;
and the second, of just 500, in pink gold.
Master World Geographic: technical characteristics
Movement:
self-winding mechnical movement, the Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 936, crafted and decorated by hand
28,800 vibrations per hour
42-hour power reserve
322 parts
38 jewels
4.9 mm high
oscillating weight segment in 22-carat gold
Functions:
Principal timezone
hours, minutes, central seconds
date
power reserve
Universal time
Simultaneous indication of the time in all 24 timezones (thanks to the 24-city disc combined with the
24-hour disc)
Privileged timezone
hours and minutes of the city positioned at 6 o’clock
24-hour time readable on the 24-hour disc next to the city in question
Dial:
steel: silvered, figures and hour-markers in rhodium-plated gold, applied. Grey and blue 24-hour ring
11 luminescent dots
18-carat pink gold: silvered, figures and hour-markers in gilt gold, applied. Grey and charcoal 24-hour
ring. 11 luminescent dots
Hands:
Hours and minutes: alpha in gilt or rhodium-plated brass, luminescent.
Others: gilt or rhodium-plated brass, blue varnish
Crowns:
1 crown at 4 o’clock to start the watch, set the local time (which also changes the time in the 24
timezones and in the small dial of the privileged timezone) and synchronise the local time and 24-
timezone system
1 crown at 2 o’clock for the display of the desired city at 6 o’clock and, automatically, the time there
in the second-timezone subdial
1 corrector at 3 o’clock to set the date and alter it in months of fewer than 31 days
Case:
Ø 41.5 mm in 18-carat pink gold or steel
cambered sapphire crystal, hardness N°9
sapphire-crystal base allowing the movement to be viewed
water resistant to 50 metres
Leather straps:
matt brown or matt chocolate alligator leather 21/16 and 16 mm folding buckle in 18-carat pink gold
or steel
References:
18-carat pink gold: 152 24 20
steel: 152 84 20


 
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