(A) HISTORY
Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the 8 Day Septantieme (the predecessor of this year's Reverso
Grande Date and Reverso Grande Reserve) in 2002. Not many know that this was a long overdue
and perfectly natural move. The little known fact is that JLC has been producing wristwatch
size 8 days movements since 1919!
(The Platinum Septantieme, first implementation of the new 8-day movement)
Written records and physical stocks from one of the most complete archives in the industry
indicate that JLC has manufactured the following complete and working 8-day movements:
- 1919 Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watch used JLC 8 day Calibre 144 which is only 38.35mm in
diameter, perfectly usable for a wristwatch.
(1919 Calibre 144 eight day movement, dial side view)
(1919 calibre 144 eight day movement, back view)
- 1928 8-day Calibre 134 was an alarm watch movement of only 27.07mm in diameter, archive
indicated that it was first tested in 23rd. July 1928.
(JLC 1928 Calibre 134 8-Day Alarm movement)
(Details for 1928 calibre 134, scanned from original MJLC archives, dated 23rd. July 1928)
- There was written record of a JLC 29.33mm diameter 8 day Minute Repeater JLC
movements in 1929.
- 1931 Rectangular 8 day calibre 124 measures only 27.07mm x 20.30mm with Double Barrels.
(The 1931 Calibre 124 with 2 barrels 8-day movement, only 20.30mm x 27.07mm in size)
(Original archive, line 2 was the, 8 day minute repeater dated 5.12.29, note other
records of 8 day movements on the same sheet)
(B) DEVELOPMENT OF THE NEW 8-DAY MOVEMENTS:
When Philippe Vandel (Design Engineer), and Janek Deleskiewicz (Chief Designer) decided
to revive the 8 day movements in 1997, they knew that "8-days" is not an innovation
in itself. They wanted to do it in an exceptional way:
- Janek initial design drawing was a challenge for Philippe, with a big date, power reserve
day-night indicator and other complications.
- With the eight day power reserve, the barrels must accumulate 4 times more energy
than a classic movement. Philippe soon found out that he needs at least 4 times the
volume to create this movement. The case size issues were thrown about within
Philippe, Janek and the case production department, and they finally decided on the
current XGT size, which was smaller than what Philippe initially wanted.
(Philippe Vandel, Design Engineer, watchmaker Extraordinaire, probably the most
fashionable watchmaker in MJLC)
- Since Philippe wanted a 4 hertz (28,800vph) movement, the volume problem was only
solved when MJLC developed thinner springs for the 2 barrels thus fitting the XGT size
rectangular case (Rectangular design does put more constraint in terms of effective use of
space) In fact the movement has a power reserve of 9 days, with accuracy up to 8 days in
4 Hertz.
(Double Barrels Diagram)
- Philippe decided to build the new movements based on studies done on the 1931 Calibre 124.
However Philippe found that the synchronisation between the 2 barrels of Calibre 124 was not
steady and did not allow an accurate Power Reserve Indicator. Philippe finally solved the
problem quite simply and ingeniously, but not before a lot of hard work and trials & errors.
(Initial Version of Indicator, inconsistent Power Reserve indication)
(Final Version of Indicator, problem solved)
(Chart showing the differences)
- In 2001, MJLC invented their second large date device and made a patent request under the
number 01122867.3. In this simplified system as compared to the one used by Lange (patent
number 4127825), there is no "program wheel" which regulated the disc of "unit" and the disc of
"ten". The most significant improvement, due to Philippe, is the design of the dents of the tens
disc outside of the units one. This innovation enabled JLC to use a thinner disc. At the same
time it is more suitable for a rectangular movement than the old big date.
(Jaeger Le-Coultre Reverso Grande Date)
- The original design lacked the specific JLC "look". Shape and movement layout were
re-designed several times before the plates, bridges, balance cock and the collet "looked" right
to the team.
(Only 4 of the many changes before the final movement layout decision)
- Movement decoration of this 8 day movement has to be the best possible, not only the 18ct
white gold calibre 879 in Septantieme, but also the calibre 875 in Reverso Grande Date and the
calibre 874 Reverso Grande Reserve.
(Exploding View of Reverso Grande Reserve movement, impressive!)
- Between countless collaboration between Philippe, Janek and the whole development team
led by Stefan Belmont (Marketing and Product Manager), the computer design work, the
prototyping, testing and finally the process takes almost 3 years. and 5 years till the actual launch
(C) 2003 REVERSO GRANDE DATE AND REVERSO GRANDE RESERVE
The two new Grande Reversos are the new accessible updates of the Septantieme but lacks
the following Septantieme features:
- 18 ct gold movement.
- No Swan Neck regulator
- Engraving is not ink finished
- Sapphire glass not antiglare
- Not limited edition
- No Ruthenium dial
(Reverso Grande Date, Sapphire case-back view)
However, both models are very high in quality and I am truly fond of the guilloche white dial.
The Grande Date looks more majestic with the Big Date and the Power Reserve. The Grande
Reserve impresses me more due to its very basic aesthetic, an understated watch which
you can wear anywhere without attracting a second glance, until you turn over the case
and voila! A unique patented Jumping Power Reserve Indicator showing the remaining days
you can go without winding. The beauty of the movement is ONLY visible through the Grande
Date sapphire case-back though. The temptation to buy both watches becomes unbearable
In fact, the "understated" design was intentional and at least one internal JLC documents
called it, The Purists' watch
(Janek can play sax like a professional, this is a photo of an actual performance)
While some may complain that one does not know when the Jumping Power Reserve will
"jump", the thrill of seeing the "number" jumping from 0 to 1...8 and finally "UP" is
sufficiently exciting to me.
(Jumping Power Reserve mechanism)
Turn the crown and observe the power reserve "aperture". When the winding is complete, the
"UP" indication is reached. The latter is visible for around 3 hours and then jumps to the figure
"8" which indicates that the autonomy of the watch amounts to 8 complete days. After
24 hours, the aperture jumps to the figure "7" and so on until the figure "1" and finally "0". The
two last figures are red, so as to draw attention to the fact that the power-reserve is nearing
its end.
(Reverso Grande Reserve, How the Jumping Power Reserve mechanism work)
The barrels are without buffer or locking-point, but a slipping spring which absorbs excess
winding. This will avoid forcing the winding train.
Another of my favourite features is that it takes only 50 turns to fully wind both models,
very close to the normal 45 hours watches.
(Part of the Grande Reverso initial redesign, moving the bezel-screws outside the gaskets for more
space)
JLC also has the foresight to intentionally design both calibres so that the Double barrel does
not cover the centre of the movement, thus enabling JLC to plan added integrated double-sided
complications in the future.
(Exploding view of Reverso Grande Date movement, amazing!)
JLC has priced both models affordably, something fans like us appreciate but will certainly
annoy competitors.
Jaw
