A forum for any messages related to Studebaker Trucks. Part of The Studebaker Truck Page at http://studetrucks.tripod.com
old building in louisville kentucky
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there is a big old brick building in louisviile that has the wheels up in the corners.just like the ones in new york city. tried to post them one time but they would not go .my skills with the computer are slim to none.my m5 made it in classic trucks ,the feburary issue.the photo shoot was taken at the street rod nationals in louisvelle in august.hope some of you saw it merry cristmas and all the rest bruce johnson
Posted on Dec 22, 2009, 9:41 AM from IP address 205.188.117.73
I was not fond of them implying that your truck was not one of the beautiful ones! It was a nice write up otherwise it sure looks like a driver. Keep on truckin!
Posted on Dec 22, 2009, 1:30 PM from IP address 65.242.198.194
the message i guess was to show you can put together something without spending a lot of money. i was very happy to make a national magaine .thanks for your suport . bruce johnson
Posted on Dec 22, 2009, 1:48 PM from IP address 205.188.117.73
Although not a Studebaker truck, this will be used to work on my fleet of Stude trucks. Plus I thought someone here might like this sort of thing. It has an 8000# capacity, what I think is a Continental 6 cyl, and seems to have started life in the Braniff Airlines maintainence hangar. Only problem is, it won't fit in my door.........I guess I should've measured!
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Michael
Posted on Dec 22, 2009, 1:05 AM from IP address 67.142.167.22
I guess that you will be either taking the wheels off or raising the garage door. Then again if you jack up the back end you might be able to coax the forks and the hi-up through then jack up the front once it has cleared the opening.
Good luck.
Posted on Dec 22, 2009, 12:51 PM from IP address 174.1.48.159
i am i serch of the internal window parts that will fit my 1949 half ton truck i have the wing glass parts and the regulator but need the chanel the devider bar and the part the glass sets into the parts are for a dailey driver dont have to be in show condition thanks
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 7:26 PM from IP address 72.65.216.73
Not sure how many of you have ever been to New York City but even if you have you likely have not been to the west side highway getting off at 125th st. If your eyes are sharp you will see this building.
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I have seen it for years and never had a camera. Finally did get some pictures. I think this building was a parts building but do not know. It doesn't look like much traffic but this is a street where a lot of tow trucks and busses traverse. We were holding up traffic and had to move. Maybe get some better pictures later. The building is slated for demolition by the city but with money as tight as it is that may be far in the future. Ted
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 4:25 PM from IP address 24.44.164.58
Ted, just looking at the picture,it appears their might be another matching sign to the right . It would be nice if someone got the Studebaker signs before the building is torn down. thanks for sharing! Merry Christmas! Randy
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 4:40 PM from IP address 4.253.117.253
The building was used by Studebaker from 1912-34 to touch up cars before delivery. It's now part of Columbia University and got a complete rehab only a couple of years ago. The university is going to tear down many buildings around it, but I think the Studebaker building will stay.
Great catch Ted. Thanks for taking the time to get the photo and share! That is great that it is still there. Hope the building is still in good use and it stays for a long while.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 4:49 PM from IP address 76.103.246.87
Well I am a happy camper, I just finalized things with Peter to buy the 62 R2 Regal he had listed here recently. he is coming home for the holidays to IN and I'm going to meet with him to do the transfer and get the extra parts from his dads house. Then work on getting it shipped home. If anybody is planning a trip from Northern Ca. to the east let me know.
that one was really tempting. An awful lot of quality work done on the engine plus having the four speed. Quite the sleeper! There was a truck in Arizona here just a few days ago and then this R2, but I keep telling myself what we really want is a nice 53 or 54 V8 coupe. Every time I find one it seems to sell before we get to it. Sooner or later.
Good deal for you on this one!!
Rob
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 2:06 PM from IP address 69.145.235.76
and it is a running car, does not blow blue but does need some work?
By the way the other Peter is a different Peter but I would of liked that R2, 4 spd. if it was a 59 to 61 Lark.
Peter
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 7:36 PM from IP address 174.1.239.167
Sounds like you had a great trip. had to be a grand time!!
I can't get the thought of "catfish" out of my mind every time I see a '55. We're really looking for a nice V8 coupe, post or hardtop, don't really want a show car, just a nice summer driver. Doesn't matter if it has the original drive line. Later 259/289 would be fine. Don't want something that will take a bunch of work. We already have plenty of projects.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 10:25 PM from IP address 69.145.235.76
remove the nose and install a 53 or 54 nose then remove all of that stainless on the sides. You will then have your HTP the way one would want it with a much stronger frame to boot. Yes it was the trip of a lifetime, now that I'm home it is going to cost me even more, new computer, new furnace which I now have to get one that is 95% efficient as the government has decided this is how it is to be. They now cost in the range of $4000.00 for a furnace and then there is the cost of labor. What happened to 20 years ago when the dam things including duct work only cost $1200.00??? After that I have to build a leanto on the side of the garage for Judy's old 1950 Champion Regal Deluxe Convertible. Once this is all done then I can sit back and take a rest (I hope)!
Peter
Posted on Dec 22, 2009, 3:30 AM from IP address 174.1.239.167
looking for 2 ujoints for 47 m5 4speed cleveland joint measures 3.675 across yoke cups are 1.102 and if there are any of the tin lock down tabs for yoke bolts avail thanks guys and ladys
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 9:39 AM from IP address 199.176.226.193
If your truck has a 4-speed, the original part number for the U joints was 660195. The current part number is 679937. It's available from most of the Stude parts vendors at $45-$55 each. Try http://www.studebakerparts.com or http://www.studebaker-intl.com.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 12:46 PM from IP address 24.60.6.19
When I changed mine out I had a heck of a time getting them out, buggered the inside threads of where the hold-down bolts go and had to take them to a machine shop to be fixed, hope I don't have to change them for another 60 years. Found mine on ebay, fruitless search at local parts stores/farm stores.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 3:15 PM from IP address 69.62.40.94
The one piece windshield and large back window would certainly suggest it is a Scotsman, but the grille with the 3 vertical bars is definitely a 2R series. 'Course, after 50 years or so things do get changed about!
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 1:13 AM from IP address 70.67.194.165
Here's a previous thread on the truck. Looks like he'll take significantly less than what's posted in your version of the ad. Go for it for your daughter!!
yes I got home a cple of days ago. Because of all the driving and very little exercise I have now developed arthritis in areas I did know I would get it. My left knee and area, my lower calf from holding my foot to the gas pedal for so long for so many months in position, sciatica in my lower back on the right side. I plan on joining a gym so I can work out to get these muscles etc. back inot working shape again.
Also in the knew year I'm looking at an operation on the Carple Tunnel in my left hand which is now way worse than ever. I found out how they fingers to keep from locking up and that is they put a needle into the hand and move the tendon or muscle back and forth and from what I'm told they do not freeze the area but just go ahead and do it. I was also told that most people pass out from the shear pain of it.
By the way how was your hunting this year?
Also I Judy and I both wish you and your wife a wonderful Christmas and hope to see you and either your truck or Avanti in Glendale next year.
Peter
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 3:26 AM from IP address 174.1.239.167
to send you somethings I Picked up along the way that might be of interest to you. The information I have is on Lighthouses throughout the USA and especially the Oregon Coast.
I will tick of the name thing at the bottoms so you can just go to it and send the info I need.
I hope you are fine and that the truck is coming along great guns and you will have it ready for the spring show and shine just down the road.
I'm home and in some ways I'm glad to be home except for all of the rain were having though they're saying we might get one day of sunshine on Tuesday but for that were supposed to get snow and more rain right after.
I really miss the sunshine that most of you have in the USA and it makes me jealous that your not sharing in all of the rain we have up here. though I here the Atlantic Coast is not so lucky as they're having nothing but snow right now.
Peter
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 8:39 PM from IP address 174.1.239.167
Can you send it to me on my email address which you already have. By the way thanks for the fan. If the weather would just quit raining I might get it onto the truck. I sure miss the nice sunny weather you all have down there. All it has dine here is rain and rain some more.
Sp of you can do that I would appreciate it and get rid of something else from the table of things to send to people which will make Judy happy.
Peter
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 8:33 PM from IP address 174.1.239.167
Could someone (with a nice M truck grille) tell me how many fasteners are used to hold the stainless center strip on? Also, how far down is each one (in inches) relative to the center strip?
I've got a pile of these strips to restore, and have found a fastener that I "think" will work. I just need to know how many to include per piece. Also, the fastener's width changes throughout the length of the piece. If I knew exactly where each fastener is located, I can grind them to fit.
A picture of a grille with a tape measure running from top to bottom, with the holes visible, would be perfect.
Thanks!
MB
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 2:10 PM from IP address 70.157.185.98
I've been looking for some time for an OEM style fastener for the center grill strip but have found nothing that comes close in stainless. I'm about ready to assemble the front sheet metal so I'm going to use a machined piece of HDPE plastic, (same as a kitchen cutting board) for the piece that will fit inside the the strip, a 10-32x1 stainless steel bolt, washer and locknut to make up the fasteners. The plastic is very easy to machine, is durable, reasonably temperature insensitive and won't rust. I purchased a remnant piece of the plastic from a local plastics distributor for the (windlace) tack strips around the interior of my doors. The stuff holds a staple or a screw really well. Hope this helps. Here's a couple photos of the tack strip installation. Merry Christmas !!!
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 8:26 PM from IP address 24.19.73.170
Old air products too. www.oldairproducts.com I have their Hurricane model 2100 installed in my C-cab and like it alot.It has electronic controls and also has the defrost option.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 11:33 AM from IP address 174.1.48.159
I'm working on an intake manifold project. I need some dimensions from a 245 cu in Commander 6 engine. Does anyone have a bare block sitting in the garage? If this works out, I might have an interesting multi-carburetor manifold idea.
What is the distance between the studs that hold the intake manifold to the block? I'm hoping for 2-1/2 inches.
What is the diameter of the hole in the block that the intake manifold bolts to? I'm hoping for 1-5/16".
What is the approximate diameter of the gasket sealing area. I'm hoping for 2-3/8".
Ted Jensen, have you got an old dead block around?
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 8:41 PM from IP address 24.60.6.19
Some pics of what I'm thinking about for a 3-carb intake
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While working on the parts for my Indy car project, I started to wonder if the cast aluminum carb intakes would also fit the 245 cu in Commander 6. My Indy car will have the 250 cu in President straight 8 with 4 carb intakes. Maybe 3 of them would fit the Commander 6 if the dimensions are close. I think Barney Roos designed both engines for 1929, so they might have some things in common.
Here's how the carbs might look on a 6 cylinder engine (I just trimmed off two cylinders from the picture of the 1934 racing engine). The factory used four Stromberg EX-22 or EX-23 carbs. I'm getting a bunch of the right angle intakes made. If they could fit the Commander 6, I'd make some extras for folks who want some unusual speed equipment. After all, three carbs is a better match to a 6 cylinder engine than the hard-to-find Offenhouser dual carb manifold. There are a bunch of small, 1-barrel carbs that will fit the intakes I'm making.
So, here's the drawing from the parts catalog fo the Commander 6 engine:
And these are the dimensions I'm looking for:
If the dimensions on the Commander 6 block are like those of the President 8, then I'll be looking for a block to mount up a set of the cast aluminum intakes.
Anyone interested in a set of three intakes and the linkages? [No CASO's, please, this is for serious go-fast guys.]
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 11:13 AM from IP address 24.60.6.19
On other engines. have you given any thought to some balancing tubes ru between the bases? It seems to help make synnchronizing issues a bit easier to deal with, and balances out any differences between the carbs due to casting differences. Also give you a better vacuum signature if you are going to be powering anything with vacuum.
Given any thought to SU or Solex side drafts, Jaguar or AH style??
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 10:45 PM from IP address 67.249.225.177
Yes, there are 1/2" tubes between the intakes for vacuum balance, as you can see in the old photo. On the straight 8, the front and back pair were tied together and the two middle pairs of cylinders wre tied together. On a 6 cylinder, I think the middle pair need to be tied to both the front and rear pair of intake ports. The guys who own the original 8-cylinder Indy cars do acknowledge that getting the carbs synched can be an issue. But when the throttles are opened, they run like stink! Remember, the originals were tuned for wide open throttle for 500 miles. On the other hand, most of the Indy cars were eventually converted to run on the road and they kept their 4-carb set-ups.
These intakes are for people focused on "old" cars. While there are modern carbs, the old Stromberg EX and BXV series are probably the ones to run for the correct look and feel, even if they don't give the ultimate in performance. We're talking flatheads, so there are significant limitations in breathing. An engine with 200-300 cu in doen't really need that much carburetion if it only turns 4000 rpm tops. There were pre-war blowers, and it's amazing what 1 or 2 psi of boost will do to an ancient engine. I'm not planning on a blower, though.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 11:19 PM from IP address 24.60.6.19
Gary, if you build such a manifold, have you given any thought about making provisions for changing the length of the intake runners? Short runners are fine for a race car that's meant to be driven at high RPM most of the time, but longer runners might be a lot better on a street-driven car.
The Commander six is a torque monster. If you had runners tuned to it's torque peak, it'd really pull at that peak. But maybe if you shortened them up a little from that point, you'd flatten and broaden the torque peak, and make a much nicer driver of it?
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 12:32 PM from IP address 173.210.220.99
Gord, I'm copying the parts that Studebaker used on the '31-'33 Indy cars. More exactly, I'm building a 250 cu in straight 8 like the factory had planned to use in '34 before bankruptcy ended the Studebaker racing program. Both the 337 cu in straight 8 and the smaller 250 cu in engine used short elbows. I'm making a set of the 4 short ones for my Indy car replica, will offer them to a couple of other guys with old Stude-powered race cars that still race them - or anyone else who wants them. The short tubes may not be the best thing for street use, but that's what I'm going to do. I just thought that they might also fit the Commander 6, and based on Jim's measurements, they should. But, the tooling is expensive, so I'm not likely to make any other length.
I have thought about reproducing the old Weiand dual carb manifold (or something like it) for the Commander 6. Here's a photo of one on George Rohrbach's 1922 Light 6 touring car. George says that this is actually a 1935 engine. It has a pair of Stromberg BXOV-26 carbs.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 4:31 PM from IP address 24.60.6.19
I have shared this before, and this is a little different than the direction you are going for, but just thought I would add it here again to add to the discussion. I got these parts from 2R5 (Bob B.) with a used Commander motor he sold me years back that he use to have in is Champ. Not sure where he got them from, but maybe he can tell us a bit more history on them.
I now have it set up and running in my 2R11 and is running on propane. It is the Edmunds intake and finned head. The carbs. are propane only carbs, no gas. Runs pretty well. I put an electonic distributor on the motor I got Dave Thibault to start making (works great, I think he might still be selling them if he has had anymore interest). But, other than that, completely stock motor, no internal work. Not sure how much extra it all added up to. Seemed like some, but not a huge change. It still doesn't like to rev. very high. I think to get real advantage, the motor needs to be rebuilt and carefully balanced and have a crank balancer added. If one were to do that, I would guess the Commanders could be woken up a bit more. I can't imagine my motor gets anywhere near 4000rpms the way it is now though and I think the low revs. are the biggest limiting power factor with them.
The exhaust manifold is the stock one that was cut in half and then re-welded as 2 individual split manifolds with straight downtubes about 8-9" long. Cathcart said he might have been the one who did those, but he couldn't recall specifically. So, I assume he might still be willing to do more if asked.
I think it was Bish who says he has a multi-cab. manifold as well. If I am recalling properly, I think he even said it was a 3 carb, instead of 2. I could be wrong about that though. If so, maybe he (or whoever it was) can post up a photo of what they have for reference. This set is the only set I have personally ever come across so far. Would be nice to actually see what else is still out there for these motors.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 5:14 PM from IP address 76.103.246.87
I,m looking for info on the last champ truck made?Like the seriel number .I,m try to help the man that say he has the last one made.And he,s going to have it up for sale. So I said I,d look into for him.The truck has 17,000 miles on it. But its been lift out in the AZ sun.What a shame.IT still has it,s OEM tires on it.He thinking it worth 5,000 .I told him that he need documetion on it.It has Frost& French lisence plate frames on it.Can any one help.602 375 8627
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 9:25 PM from IP address 72.222.250.7
John; Thanks for the swift comeback with additional information on the truck. The data you posted indicates the serial number for the truck is E7-21853. This truck then is a model 8E7-12, a short bed (6 1/2 ft box) V8 engined pickup. The serial number is in the block of serial numbers assigned to 1964 production. As the serial number block for 8E7 trucks began with E7-21251, the truck in question was the 602nd 8E7 of 1094 trucks built in 1964. Therefore, to answer your original question, No, this truck is not the last Champ truck built. Your friend may be disappointed, but this is the documentation he should have when selling it.
If we can help more, please let us know. Merry Christmas. Frank
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 9:53 PM from IP address 69.244.237.193
I could be wrong, but wasn't there a photo taken of the last truck off the assembly line? Maybe I am remembering something else, but I sort of recall seeing that at some point.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 1:54 AM from IP address 76.103.246.87
Hey Guys well I finally have come to the reality that i have too many irons in the fire. Plus i found a sweet deal on a 62 lark regal 2 door sedan with a 63/64 lark-hawk type R2 4spd 3:73 TT disk brake SLEEPER! i have always wanted to build this car, always thought it would be a hardtop, but what says sleeper better than a post car. Anyhow this one although a great deal is still a little pricey SOOOO i have to thin some things out. here is a list of what I have availible, they will be posted on the Stude sites first then off to ebay.
1957 3E7 259 bored to @312 4bbl. (runs strong) NP 5spd overdrive, 4:10 TT all original drivetrain except for the trans. (project)
1960 5E12 122 259 3spd overdrive 4:10 dana 60 3/4 ton Runs and drives stops.
1963 8E45 Detroit Diesel Tractor, Complete minus doors has not been run since 1974
1963 Wagonaire factory R1 and HD FOM disk brakes sliding roof HD suspension, 3rd seat 160 speedo 6000rpm tach ect. has not been run since 1975. complete and solid needs some floor work.
1964 8E28 (BACH) Trailer Toter solid body extendable mirrors 55' 232V8 Np 5 Spd overdrive Runs, Drives, rear brake line broke.
The wagonaire is one of only about 5 or 6 left out of 44, and the only one ever built in sea foam green, and from what I hear it may be the most solid & complete of the bunch, it will be the last on this list to go if it goes at all. But i might as well entertain offers.
Email me off line if interested
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 6:53 PM from IP address 24.144.161.151
There is a real nice article about a 2r driven for a record (191+ MPH) on the Salt Flats in this month's Hot Rod Magazine. It makes a very interesting statement in that that the truck had the least amount of frontal area and was the most aerodynamic of the trucks and that is why the guy picked it to run there. For all you stock guys, it may not meet your needs. But there was some very favorable reporting about Studebaker designs in the early 50's in the article. I personally enjoyed reading about it.
Rob Lund
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 4:35 PM from IP address 75.54.76.4
Another in Rod & Custom, though an airbrushed rendering.
by '59,4E1
The two page centerfold illustration is of a 1960 Champ, titled "Dream Car of the month". Found this in the February 2010 issue. This is very well done, and would be great as a framed print. I have'nt checked their website to see if it is there. Jeff S.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 12:21 AM from IP address 97.94.210.30
My wife & I are headed to the above mentioned, we are in the process of adopting a 15 month old boy there. We will get visitation with him while there and will have to make another trip there in another 4 to 8 weeks before he gets to come home with us. I will keep an eye out for any WWII trucks while there. We have our swimsuits and suntan oil ready for the trip.
Hope all have a GREAT Holiday
Seasons Greeting
george o
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 4:03 PM from IP address 173.50.100.58
Trying to make the doors in my 1950 2R operational and I'm running into some issues. The truck hasn't been used in 20 years and the doors don't latch correctly. Both sides were latching partially, but not fully engaging (i.e. you could pull the door open about 2 inches before the mechanism engaged). I tried to take the lock housing plate off of the passenger side and found the screws rusted into oneness with truck. In spraying liquid wrench on the screws, some sprayed into the lock mechanicals and inadverdantly fixed my problem! The passenger door now operates perfectly, thank God, but now the drivers side is a different story. Same problem, so I tried the same remedy, but on the drivers side, the exterior handle now appears locked. I maneuver the interior handle about halfway through its arc and the exterior handle becomes "unlocked" and frees up. Also, there is a keyhole (to lock the door with) on the passenger side, but nothing on the driver side. Is that stock? Since the lockset seems to be on the passenger side only, I dont understand why the drivers side seems to be going into this "locked" mode. Anyone know what I did wrong or how to fix my driver door so that I can open it from the outside? Thanks friends -Ryan Nance
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 3:42 PM from IP address 75.85.238.98
Both doors can be locked by pushing the inside door handle forward. And yes, there's only one lock, on the passenger side. You were supposed to lock the driver's door from the inside and slide across the seat and get out of the passenger door. That way, you wouldn't be exiting the truck into traffic.
A driver's door lock was optional, and eventually became standard equipment in later years.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 5:02 PM from IP address 24.126.89.181
Thanks for the quick reply. Ok, that makes sense about the lock. My handle on the interior locks when I pull back, not when I push forward, so maybe something is not right. The exterior handle only works when it's freed up by using the interior handle. When I close the door, the handle is automatically pushed into the standard, horizontal position, and is also in the locked position, rendering it unable to be opened from the outside. Any ideas on how to fix that? Thanks, Ryan Nance
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 1:50 PM from IP address 75.85.238.98
Which way is your inside handle pointing? I don't claim to know how they came from the factory, but I believe they're supposed to point downward. If they do, then you push forward on the handle to lock.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 3:13 PM from IP address 24.126.89.181
Oh, I understand now. No, mine point upward and I have no idea either which way they were intended to go in the stock configuration. The way they are now seem to be the most comfortable to use with my arm resting on the armrest. Thanks brother Skip.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 5:03 PM from IP address 75.85.238.98
Most of the factory literature I have seen shows the inside door handles pointing down and a little to the rear. Locking them makes them point directly downward. The window cranks are usually shown pointing the same way, but I can never tell whether the window is up or down.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009, 11:07 AM from IP address 98.204.68.208
FWIW,There is a coil spring on the inside latch handle that may be broken, allowing the handle to fall back to lock position when you shut the door. Bish
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 7:31 PM from IP address 71.161.195.51
Thanks Brother Bish, I'll check that out. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the panel that covers the lockset mechanism, as the screws have become one with the door and the all my cheat techniques seem to be failing. Looks like I'm gonna have just drill them out...no worries. Thanks, Ryan Nance
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 1:55 PM from IP address 75.85.238.98
Those screws go into square nuts and these break loose rather easily. Heating seems to work well, especially if you have the door panel off and can get the thread side with PB Blaster or something similar. The doors on my C Cab had sat outside for years with no glass or anything to shield them from the weather. I still only had to drill three. Bish
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 4:14 PM from IP address 71.254.2.127
Thanks brother, I have some PB and I will try that route next. The 5 different screwdrivers that I have tried are all seemingly a hair too narrow, so if PB doesn't do it, I'm gonna try to take a grinder and cut a larger screwdriver head down slightly to see if I can get a more snug fit. Thanks for the warning though.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 5:11 PM from IP address 75.85.238.98
i just received my production order from the studebaker museum for my 42 M-15-20-C2 express body it states that final assembly was 5/18/42 i had read some where that truck production was stoped in January of 42, would this mean that they stopped production but were still assembling them in May? it also states that the order date was placed on 8/4/43 destination Minot N.D. does anyone know what dealership that would have been? again i did not think they sold any trucks in 43. opinions?
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 7:20 AM from IP address 97.88.243.2
thanks Gary i had not thought of that, the bed is in very good shape with bracing at the back corners like some thing was mounted in it. i will keep digging
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 11:15 AM from IP address 97.88.243.2
Minot is home of the Air National Guard. There is an air base, Minot AFB, there along with a lot of remnants of the cold war ballistic missle defense system, silos, vary large radar facilities (cooked birds in flight& critters on the ground for a 1/4 mile as I recall) and similar things. Generator engines so big a small man could crawl inside the intake manifolds. Not sure when it all started though. The Salt agreements in about 1973 finished off the BM defense stuff.
Scott
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 3:36 AM from IP address 98.190.131.202
Stude car production ended in January 1942, but trucks continued to be built through April 1942. Stude built 480 M-series trucks during April 42, a big increase from the 75 they built in March. They also built 3590 U.S.6 military trucks in April. Your May 42 final production date probably indicates that Stude contiued to do final vehicle checkout with a skeleton staff for another month or so after the production line shut down. By that time, the draft had probably decimated their production line employees anyway.
The War Production Board authorized the continued production of trucks because the government thought they would be needed to replace those worn out by the war effort. They were retained by the government and released gradually during the war to those with the most urgent needs. Some 42 Ford cars were similarly held for use by the military.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 4:49 PM from IP address 24.126.89.181
It is my understanding that after 'official' production ceased, vehicles were stockpiled from pre-February production and those produced into the early part of '43. Some of these vehicles were reserved for military use. If your truck has indications of military plates on the dash, then it was released to the military. If not, it was then requesitioned for domestic use in a 'critical use' need as determined by the feds. If the dash shows no evidence of plates/tags on the dash, it began life in a crucial field of commerce or agriculture or ?? during WWII.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 10:00 PM from IP address 69.244.237.193
Trucks stayed in production due to critical need for Commerce and agriculture. You might even see some trucks titled or registered as 43, 44, 45. All likely produced in early 42 and released and registered as deemed necessary for the war time domestic support effort.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 11:05 PM from IP address 67.249.225.177
all very intresting stuff i had not been aware that the air force was not formed until 47 [must have been doing somthing else in school that day]there was no info on my production order on how the truck was shipped to N.D. i been checking into doing a title search but so far have not heard anything. this forum is sure a great place to learn about studebakers [ and other things] you guys are a great resorce
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 7:32 AM from IP address 97.88.243.2
During WWII, the 'air force' was a part of the US Army, the component being called the US Army Air Corps. Congress authorized a separate entity for the US Air Force in 1947.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 10:29 AM from IP address 69.244.237.193
Skip; Thanks for correcting my statement. That's why I was never in the media reporting business-I get in a hurry and do not check the facts. I try to rely on memory and at 72 my memory is shot.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New 2010 to you and yours. Frank
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 2:51 PM from IP address 69.244.237.193
1. Count the number of Provinces and States you visited
2. Count your fingers and toes
3. Count your blessings
4. And oh, yeah ... do that Diebetes thing!
I'm glad you're home safe. Enjoy your Christmas and New Years with Judy.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 6:44 AM from IP address 71.52.131.61
Good to hear he made it around the horn !
What an experience that musta been. Hey Peter the weather has changed a bit since you last visited us and I'm sure its changed since you last seen your place as well ....have a great Christmas and hope to see you in Arizona in the spring .
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 9:59 AM from IP address 24.215.11.53
were going to have number one son make up for my overheating problem.
Yes Bob the rain is here to stay for the winter and it really makes me want to go south again.
Peter
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 8:59 PM from IP address 174.1.239.167
Judy/Peter. Merry Christmas and I am glad the trip was safe and most of all fun. It is a trip that I am sure most of us would like to have taken. Thank you Peter for stopping by for a few days it was good to meet you and have the opportunity to sorta get to know you. Ted
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 4:38 PM from IP address 24.44.164.58
It was -25 F in Saranac Lake this morning. I believe you passed through near there when you went to the Mueseum in Blue Mtn Lake. Rest of the area was in the minus numbers also. Here is was 11 when I got up. Probably go through the propane a bit faster trying to keep warm overnight. Now calling for a Nor'easter from Va up through NY metro and Boston areas.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 6:23 PM from IP address 67.249.225.177
to deal with the difference between -10 and -15, than it is to deal with the diffeence between 80 ad 85. Put on another sweater, throw another chair on the fire.
On the other end there is only so much you can take off.....
Posted on Dec 19, 2009, 5:16 PM from IP address 67.249.225.177
COme on Greg I'm sure your daughter and wife would be impressed
by Peter
with you if you took it all off. By the way have a great Christmas and I was again looking at that blue/green handled screw driver that said Gonya on it and I'm sure it is yours. So send me you mailing address.
Peter
Posted on Dec 20, 2009, 9:04 PM from IP address 174.1.239.167
Here are some numbers that may be of interest to some. I just finished my son's 2R11 and after driving it about 1300 miles now it seems to be broken in and uses no oil. It runs quite well and is fun to drive. So I connected a remote tacometer to determine what the RPM is at given miles per hour. We have an overdrive and 4.857 gears in the differential with 6:50 tires.
at 55 no over drive RPM is 2950
55 in overdrive 2150
60 in OD 2270
65 in OD 2479
70 in OD 2620
I balanced this old commander engine and it really does run smooth at 70. Doesn't hold that speed very well on these hills.
Ted
Posted on Dec 17, 2009, 10:25 PM from IP address 24.44.164.58
Matthew: Nice try but I think the 4x4 will stay inside for a while and maybe see restoration in a couple of years. My wife likes the Wagonaire and that is likely to be the next car. The last car I finished was a 55 Champion. I loved the car it was better than new really. But mamma did not like it so back to thinking of a wagonaire. I was telling John Batka that she did not tell me she liked the Wagon until after we had sold it but somehow that car became her favorite.
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The next project is to build a 3R5. The engine now resides in a pickup in Kansas City and has has shown up on this forum a few times. The engine I am putting in the truck is a former 170 OVH that is now somewhere north of a 185 OVH,with what Bill Cathcart calls a performance cam, in front of a Flight-O-matic from a 57 Hawk that will start in first gear. It took some doing but I made a bracket that bolts to the rear engine cross member and extends rearward to accept the bell housing mounts of the Automatic. Had the drive shaft shortened and have actually moved it on its own. The Hydravac from a Hawk is mounted to the frame in front of the left rear shock just behind the gas tank. Just had the radiator re-cored and will need to call Lamonte for floor parts for the cab real soon. So far the greatest hurdle to overcome with the engine change has been the throttle linkage. I think I can use the linkage from the Lark the engine came from and make that work but it has yet to be tested.
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Posted on Dec 18, 2009, 4:30 PM from IP address 24.44.164.58
Got home from work about 9:45 last nght to find a blue Dodge van parked in the driveway. Yep, it was Peter. We had a good but short visit then retired for the night. If he wants, we'll head over to a local caffe (Frank's Place)soon for breakfast. Frank's Place is known locally for good regular people breakfasts; nothing fancy, just really good. I believe Peter may be planning one more stop sbout 50 miles up the road before crossing the border back into Canada.
Glenn
Posted on Dec 17, 2009, 12:02 PM from IP address 71.112.53.244
Well, Frank's Place was closed for renovation, so we went with a "Plan B" and stopped in at the Island Cafe. Not a bad place and after a good hearty breakfast Peter headed out for his next stop.
Glenn
Posted on Dec 17, 2009, 1:51 PM from IP address 71.112.53.244
I'm looking for a pitman arm for a 1960 Champ 1/2 ton part number 1692208. I posted this over on the driver's club, but realized I should check here also.
Thanks,
Nick
Posted on Dec 16, 2009, 2:43 PM from IP address 192.158.61.68
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