This will probably sound like a stupid question to many of you but here goes, can speedometers be repaired? I have a new cable in my Champ but the speedometer needle stays at zero and a click, click, click, ... sound comes out of the dash. I disconnected it for now so as not to damage the new cable.
Posted on May 21, 2013, 9:06 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Got the Studebeadle back from the upholstery shop today. New headliner, sun visors, kick panels and area in the corners beside the doors covered with a beige fabric. Looks Great. Thanks to Rick Kuhl for the pictures of his truck interior as a guide to have mine done. Will see if John W. will post some photos for me tomorrow??? Thanks in advance John.
Posted on May 21, 2013, 8:57 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
We managed to get Nellie's picture on the Registry. Just click on "Photo" in your registry entry to see it. Both of Nellie's photos can be seen in "Photos>Registry". She is the first and (so far) only 2R bus there. Thanks for registering her.
Just checking in with you and if that cylinder is available as well as the pistons. Neil in NM has offered to machine new pistons (!) but It would be easier to have some NOS! I could also pass on the heavy duty cylinders to Dave in Austrailia if I can pull together the others.
Posted on May 21, 2013, 11:52 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
That's very good news. Let me know how much and how you want payment - do you take visa or paypal? Regular post would be fine if you think you know what that would run.
Email address is here: [email protected]
Posted on May 21, 2013, 4:08 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I saw a posting a while back about this but didn't see anyone say who was organizing the dinner or if we were going to have one. So, I will ask. Don't we have a few members in the Springs or close by that will set up the dinner?
I am getting Toto ready to drive up there and will be sure I am there for Wed. nite's dinner. Just tell me where and when.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 11:42 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I asked about it a few weeks ago. Only had responses from Bob (again) and Peter. I knew it would come up again. Thanks Scott and Toto.
One of our chapter members retired to Colorado Springs five years ago and is very involved with planning for the show. He wouldn't have time to plan the dinner but he might have suggestions for places we could check into for the Wednesday evening or even other chapter members that might have suggestions. We just need to figure out how many and how big a room we need.
I know Peter and Judy are interested. We could probably plan it all on the web now that Frank has his email up an running again. It would be similar to what folks have done for York meets in the past.
I'm assuming there will be quite a few STFer's attending a Wednesday gathering and get together for a photo by Toto on Thursday since Scott is driving up. (Sandy and I are coming from Minnesota in brand x.)
Posted on May 21, 2013, 2:01 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Come on gang, surely there's someone who is willing to do the necessary work to host the 2013 Dinner in Colorado Springs. There has been a chain of International Meet dinners since the first one in Omaha, NB in 2006. This year should see the 8th Annual International STF Dinner.
I would volunteer if I were able to make the trip, but that won't happen this year. If you're in that general area, please consider stepping up and consider offering to be the host. Please!
Posted on May 21, 2013, 4:39 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I was in Colorado Springs last week. Went to dinner with a Heinkel scooter friend and his family in Manitou Springs which is a very quaint little village just southwest of Garden of the Gods. We ate at Adam's Mountain Cafe. Food was excellent and prices reasonable:
Street parking may be an little tight in Manitou Springs. Group coordinator at the restaurant may have some parking suggestions or maybe even willing to pull a permit to reserve street parking out front of the restaurant for Studebakers.
Wish I could join you guys, but I don't think another trip from California to Colorado is in the cards...
Posted on May 21, 2013, 5:59 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Here's another question: I'm replacing some rear regular duty drums on our M16. PN is 673204 and parts book lists 82912 as the casting number. I've found what are apparently NOS drums but they have 83508 as the casting. I'm told that different manufacturers may use different casting numbers. Any experience here?
Posted on May 20, 2013, 10:54 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Bill Fowler / Solo Speed Shop New Navy Truck 4 x 4
by John Kruse
Bill has a junker 1960 Navy 4x4 1/2-ton, short box, 259V8, 22K originl miles pickup on they way to him. Kind of reminds me of Maynard the wrecker from the movie CARS - what a wreck! Just kiddin Bill;-)....check her out. Love this pickup!
The one I had years go had hubs on it which required a screwdriver to engage. There were two screw slots that turned to the lock or unlock position on each hub. Not the same as on any of the other 4x4's I have!
Enjoy your new truck
Posted on May 20, 2013, 8:55 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
the copy of the production order you sent me, it indicates your truck was built with the front wheel drive hubs #1692983. I believe all 65 US Navy 4E7D-112-C2 pickups were built the same as required by the US Govt contract with Studebaker Corp. If I'm wrong on this, will someone please correct this. I've read at least three of the production orders on these trucks and they all say the same thing except for serial number, date of build and other minor bookkeeping data.
My one question, which is seeking an answer from anyone:
The production order calls for both a rear bumper (1693053) and pintle hook (1689031) at the rear. Your truck has no rear bumper. Would a pintle hook be mounted on a bumper? Could they co-exist on the same vehicle? There is no either/or statement on the production order. Just wondering.
Bill, it is a handsome truck. Wonder where that beautiful front bumper originated? Congratulations! Frank
Posted on May 20, 2013, 9:41 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Thank You! Mine has the Hook still installed & to have that on check it out no upper panel it was removed! I thing bumper hangs underneath hook low enough to use hook! I will figure this out when truck gets here & let you know! Front bumper original rechromed by Michael Cenit! Tks Bill
Posted on May 20, 2013, 9:56 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Rick; I have no idea why the US Navy ordered these 65 1/2 ton 4x4 trucks. To my knowledge, all of them were assigned stateside. Neither have I seen any evidence that any of these trucks were assigned to the US Marine Corps. Therefore, one has to surmise they were used at Naval Air Stations as motorized mules to tow aircraft on the field, to pull supply wagons or other material in servicing aircraft. The 4X4 feature probably was to handle all weather or emergency traction problems.
If anyone else has an idea or served in the US Navy in the 1960-1970 era, perhaps you could enlighten us. I've never read of any suggestion as to their intended use.
The US Navy got a good buy on these trucks. The government contract was let in 1959 for 1959 model year trucks. For some reason, the winning bid was accepted after the beginning of the new model year (1960) was under way. Studebaker Corp. submitted a bid and was declared the winner. Opps! Studebaker bid on 1959 models!
Studebaker had made a business decision, after submitting their bid, to not include a 1/2 ton 4X4 (model 5E7D) truck in it's 1960 model line. But they accepted the late award and built the 65 4E7D-12-C2 (1959 models) in the early spring of the 1960 production (model 5E7's) year. This meant the US Navy received 1960 built trucks for 1959 prices. I've never heard of an explanation as to why the US Navy was delayed in awarding the contract. I suppose the contract was still lucurative enough for the Corp. to built the trucks on the old design after-the-fact.
Posted on May 21, 2013, 10:43 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
If so, then Studebaker just built a few extra of the older '59 C-cab model 1/2 ton trucks when they were already geared up for the Champs in the 1/2 ton range. Might even have been more interesting if they had built them as T-cabs instead of the C-cabs. Probably would have been easier and cheaper to have just done that at that point. But, maybe the specs. dictated they had to stick with the C-cabs for some technical reasons. But, they may have just built those trucks off the normal line sort of by hand anyway since they were 4x4's. I don't think I have ever seen anything suggesting Studebaker produced any T-cab 4x4's. Anybody else know anything on that?
Posted on May 21, 2013, 11:40 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Folks i picked these parts up cheap from a place tat is getting ready to shut there parts shop down. They loved packards Studes Nash All kinds of stuff.
A lot of his stuff is going to scrap. If you saw the pictures of the green 51 c cab i put up its from his parts shop.
Not much to them and only part here for a truck is the one dash insert. it has the gold lettering and white gauges. A Type? Shame the glass is broke. But if you need one.. SOme one said the large insert is for a commander maybe ? Any way. Email if your looking.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 5:41 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
My machine shed got destroyed in a wind event last week, i am now looking to replace it with a new building. I am looking at building a 30x40 metal building, anybody ever put one up? any recommendations on manufactures. Any insight would be appreciated
Posted on May 20, 2013, 11:22 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Looking at their portfolio gallery, I worked on the architectural design teams for the Oxbow Market and Firefly projects. I never saw the Firefly project in person, but looked good in photos. The Oxbow project looks great in person. These are obviously on the higher end of design for metal buildings of course.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 5:20 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
If you have enough room and relatively flat ground, then one of the pre-cut buildings is the way to go. I had to fit my building(s) into tight spaces, so ended up having a local builder put together two buildings with pre-assembled wooden roof trusses, but usual stud, insulation and drywall inside, with steel outside. For storage of vehicles awaiting work or driven infrequently, 36'x36' will hold 8 cars or light trucks. My shop building is 52'x24', with three garage doors, and will hold 6 cars comfortably. I figured to allow 18' for vehicle length, and another 6' for work benches and shop equipment along the back wall. If you make the building less square and more rectangular, you can divide it in half and only heat the half where you actually have your shop.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 5:51 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I need a set of hood hinge springs and safety latch springs. Where can I get them. Stude international I think has them but the site is hard to use.
I also need to know what the prop rod is supposed to look like, go and store where. A length and a picture will help. I don't have one and I just got my hood and front clip mounted. I want to get the engine started this week.
Posted on May 19, 2013, 10:25 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
The ones I gt are coated steel I think. I got them from Stude intl. I was at a show this weekend looking at a dodge military truck. They have the same pivots. Maybe avalible cromed from a different manufacturer source!
Posted on May 20, 2013, 8:33 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Hi Ed, There's a good chance that a standard extension spring product out there will work well on the M series hood. Springs are selected by wire size, number of coils (or length), coil diameter and attachment style. The three websites below should provide a good starting point for your hunt. There are many others. Hope this helps.
What about using springs from a 2r, or maybe a hawke. I know some guys that might have a spare set of these laying around.
Or would these be stiffer or too short. I don't have any original springs do reference.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 7:16 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
The rod is 26.5" from the center line of the bend to the bottom of the resting flange. The rod from the bottom of the resting flange to the end is 0.75". The bend is 1.25" from end to the center line of the rod. Cotter pin hole is about 0.25" from the rod end. The rod diameter is 5/16".
When I got my truck it had a home made one installed. They bent a 5/16" rod, drilled the cotter pin hole and threaded the other end where they cinched a square nut on about an inch up...
Posted on May 20, 2013, 5:39 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Question: can you swap HD M16 rear brake cylinders for regular ones?
The heavy duty option had a 4" shoe and the regular a 3" Is the wheel cylinder itself the same dimension and with the same mounting? I have been unable to find replacements other than these HD versions. I know the drums are substantially different with this option.
I'm guessing that someone out there has tried this before.
Posted on May 19, 2013, 9:12 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Thanks Bo. I think with one cylinder and a couple pistons we could move forward with getting the rear end reassembled. One of our pistons is seized and we will have to destroy the piston to get it clear. Thanks also for the info on the issues on swapping.
Posted on May 19, 2013, 10:10 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
My 48 M16 rear wheel cylinders were stuck fast! I found a bolt that would thread into the hole where the banjo bolt goes. I then drilled a hole through the center of the bolt and threaded that hole for a zerk fitting. With the bolt in place I pumped it full of grease and the hydraulic action forced the pistons out. The smaller ones came out first and I had to hold them with a c-clamp in order to get the bigger pistons out.
I ordered the S-388 brake rebuild kit and even though I have the HD brake setup it matched. The brakes are working perfectly. Neal
Posted on May 20, 2013, 8:39 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Hi Rob, where did you find the new rear wheel cylinders for the heavy duty brakes ? I have been searching online to find a pair of new items for my M17 which has the bigger brakes fitted as standard, cheers Dave.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 4:28 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
If Bo is unable to find the replacement parts and I can't do the fix that Neil is suggesting then I may use the HD cylinders and change the backing plate over. I have only the one set but I will "refer" them to you if all goes well. It makes sense for the HD parts to go to your M17.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 12:26 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Crawling under the motor looking for leaks and found that I have the front housing plate cover missing. Do not know if any damage has been done with the plate missing. It has been this way since I got the truck 2 years ago. Could there be damage done to flex plate or other stuff?
parts missing from parts book:
531319 plate housing cover (front)
G180078 screw to housing 5/16" -18x7/8"
G181004 bolt to housing 5/16" 24x1-1/8"
G120368 nut hex 5/16"-24
G120393 washer plain 5/16"
G120214 washer lock 5/16"
had 1 1/2 in rain 70 mph wind for 10 min, no tornadoes close by, big hail in wichita, grandson and son had cars badly damaged at about 4 this after noon, I just have a few branches to pickup, was at car show with T bird 10 mi south of my place, started to look bad, called the show early and left.
Posted on May 19, 2013, 9:01 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Today, I had plenty of fun driving Old Girl some 50 odd miles ( one way) to meet up with Frank Drumheller, John Weinrich, Jim Beadle, Dan Martin and Eric Branch & Family at the second annual Studebaker Truck Farmers Spring Meet, at the Timbers Restruant in Ladysmith, VA. Most of the trip up there, and back home was in the rain, and I got to thank Ted Jensen for the wonderful rebuild on my wipers! They worked GREAT!
Jim was there with his '53 and John with his '48 and Dan, with his STUDEBAKER TRUCKS shirt on! . Due to the weather, I was thinking of driving the car, but, good thing I drove Old Girl---I never would have heard the end of it! . Shortly after I arrived, Mr. Studebaker himself (pulled in). Frank brought along a big briefcase of literature to look at (Thanks Frank!). We had just sat down, when Eric and his lovely family arrived. Jim, Eric, Dan and Frank brought photos of their trucks which were passed around.
We had a wonderful meal, and had a great time. I for one will be looking forward to our next event together.
It was then time to say goodby, and head South. Rained all the way home, but definately did not wash away the memories of on GREAT meet today!
Pictures were taken. They will be posted later. Wished you all could have been there.
Posted on May 18, 2013, 4:57 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I had a lot of fun (even with a 100 miles of rain and wet roads and a wrong turn detour of about 20 miles) Also enjoyed meeting the Branch Family and seeing the pictures of their (HER) truck. Dan I will send you pictures soon.
Posted on May 19, 2013, 1:32 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Just posted a pic of my 49 2R10 on the truck geek thing. (The yellow one) Been about a 7 year project, finally ready for the road. Many thanks to all that have helped along the way. Vern,Chuck and all the rest
Posted on May 18, 2013, 5:53 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I need the old style floor brake handle for the emergency brake for a band brake on the back of a tranny
the tranny I'm getting the parts off of is off a 53 R series 4 speed everything is there but the handle my son was going to try to use it and it has since disappeared all I need is the handle I have the band and drum and everything else. I'm in Belfair wa.
Posted on May 18, 2013, 3:09 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
my son and I have worked for some time this evening trying to get me set up with e-mail. I lost it several weeks ago by hitting a wrong key and then forgetting my password. I kept trying until they cut me off saying someone was using too many passwords and or I was being scammed or someone had hijacked my account. My bad.
Yes it is in registry under Michael Cenit! Truck came from Top Gun Naval Base NV Funny I pulled a 55 Chevy Gasser out of Mina NV & car was raced at Top Gun Raceway This is a 1/2 ton SB 1960 Navy so same body as a 59 It has 22K Orig miles 259 V8 & weird no manual hubs so if anybody have info on hubs I would like to have it! Being Navy it was gray & back early 90s was bought by a man In N. CA he painted it Stude Red & did a super job on paint interior & detail! He sold to Michael 07/11 & Michael said he didn't do anything to drive train! It leaked oil so he spent a year changing all seals & brgs in Transfer case frt end Etc. This is one nice truck & lucky to own it! My problem is I don't have Photo Bucket to list pics George can you email me & put pics on site? Tks Bill
Posted on May 20, 2013, 12:36 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
ATTN: Bill Fowler, Brian Dahl, Peter Sauer & Al Freese,
I received your messages with many thanks. I have not yet learned how to send e-mail via this new system. It's so completely different than what I have used for the past dozen years.
I'll figure it out sooner or later. I really am technically challenged- I process on what I remember from my senior Typing 1 class of 1953!!! I will respond to each of you when I figure out this new program that my son dumped on me.
Frank, it was great to see you again yesterday. We really enjoyed ourselves and are so glad we found you guys,not only as truck nuts, but as new friends! Your knowledge of Studebakers is awesome, thanks for passing on some of the history to us newbees and cant wait to see and learn more the next time. My email [email protected] and Kim's is [email protected]
Posted on May 19, 2013, 7:42 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Have had several vehicles judged including a Grand National and a National adward winner. They don't nit-pick the cars to death like SDC does,just make your car is as clean and presentable as possible. Bring documentation,they sometimes ask. My Wig Wag light drives them nuts. Relax and enjoy the day,look at it as a learning experience. For me the most enjoyable part is the entrance parade at Hershey,not sure what they will do at Carlisle. Jerry Kurtz
Posted on May 20, 2013, 10:20 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I'm planning on going and if the weather gets ugly then I'll probably pull over and sit it out or trug on.
It's been my experience that weather report are usually worse than they turn out to be. That said, when the probability is 40% or over there will be rain (as in this report)... My fingers are crossed that the rain will be light and on/off.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 5:55 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I thought you were tougher than that? I can understand us weak CA guys who aren't use to as much of it. But even I don't baulk much over some rain here or there. I do have electric wipers on my truck though and that helps a little.
Either way, keep it safe and enjoy.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 6:58 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
was to replace the non-functional vacuum wipers with electric ones on my M15. They work but under a heavy rain they would be useless. In that instance which only would last up to 15 minutes, I could pull over. I've actually had to pull over in a modern car before under heavy rain. Other than that there would no reason for not driving the truck in the rain.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 7:14 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I'll see you guys around noon. Will not be driving a Studebaker, but will bring some goodies for you guys to look through (showroom literature, dealer data books, my M16-52 photo album). See you then. Frank
Posted on May 17, 2013, 10:07 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I have the map light, with the original frayed wiring of which there is not much left. My '51 is also now running a 12volt system. Can I get a replacement socket that bolts in place? Do I solder wire to the original socket? Do I make a parts store 12volt light socket work in the dash of my truck?
Posted on May 17, 2013, 3:49 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
1. If the wire itself is ok, use heat shrink wrap on the existing wire to replace the woven coating. 2. Solder new wire onto the existing socket. 3. Replace the unit. Remember, the socket does not care about voltage, use a 12V bulb.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 5:50 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
After putting the motor and trans into the truck I stood it on its wheels to check the trucks "attitude." It was down at the front considerably. I took both spring sets to the local spring shop and asked for an additional leaf and that the bundle height be increased by the 3" I felt I needed.
I got them back cleaned up and just as I had asked. When installed the height was just right. I took it for its first run just recently and it rode fine (that is like a truck.) Cost for the works $80. (they had earlier done the same for the rear set, removing two leafs back there)
Posted on May 18, 2013, 8:21 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Someone posted here previously about a process where you put on a silver / chrome plating.
It was a good link, and led me to a thread on H.A.M.B.
I been reading it and it's now up to 52 pages long.
I'm probably going to give this a try,.. was just curious if any of you may have tried this, or maybe could point me to someone you know who has.
I'd like just a tad more info before jumping into this.
Write here or email either one.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 2:28 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Yeah I was looking at giving it a while.
The package I am looking at does something like 100 sq ft.
That's a lot of chroming IMO.
It cost about $250
Of course I called and talked to a business about chroming the hinges and they said about $100 each...
So for $50 more, I can chrome a ton of stuff.
Only thing that confused me is that the place that sells the stuff says you have to use a base coat to start, and you much have a top coat when you finish.
Problem is they sell neither...??
So I'm trying to find someone who has done this before I invest the money.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 4:40 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I suggest you contact Caswell; they are the home/hobby plating folks. Have bought from them for years. www.caswellplating.com. The first consideration is that you will probably want more than just a chrome tank set-up. Check them out and see what you think. I do nickle, copper, 'copy' cad and chrome. All in my basement [not married]. I have 3 gallon tanks [the nickle is 6 gallons] so I can do only parts of a limited size. The solutions last for years and years unless you do a lot of stuff. Mostly I plate motorcycle parts.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 11:45 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I checked out the site.. got some info
I've always found the best non-biased info comes from someone who uses it and has been successful with it.
What all can you tell me about it (email me if it's too much to put here)
I am interested in the cost, ease of use, results for a novice, learning curve, etc.
Right now I am just looking for a way I can get a quality chrome look without having to take it someplace where it cost me $75 per piece.
I'm looking at probably doing my
plate the hood latch locks into;
brake calipers (questions of heat here)
upper and lower A-Arms;
coil springs; and sway bar.
I can't think of anything I'd use any other type metal I'd use (nickle, copper, etc)
Do you think you might have a 'ball park' figure as to the very cheapest I might be able to do what I am wanting..??
Posted on May 18, 2013, 1:04 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
-Have had my nickle,copper,chrome,copy can tanks so long that I can't really say anything about current prices.
You will need copper and nickle if you wish to do 1st class work. Contrary to popular belief it is the undercoating of nickle that protects the base metal. Chrome plate is highly porous! Yes, almost all base metals can be plated with chrome without anything under it...it will degrade rapidly. Steel will quickly develop rust spots.
Copper is necessary if any pits and scratches are to be filled. You can put plate it on thick and then work it down until the surface is perfect and then chrome it. Sanding and buffing and tools of that nature are necessary to prepare the surface. The only way it will pay off is in the long run. One project [or maybe two] and you'd be better off to have the work done. The power supply: Nickle takes about 1/20 amp per sq. inch of surface. Chrome takes about 1 amp per sq. inch. That is a pretty big DC variable power supply if a guy needs even 50 sq. inches of chrome.
As I said before; I've had my plating system for years and with a LOT of parts done for my projects and for friends it really has paid-off. You mention coil springs and sway bars. My tanks are about 3 gallons in 5 gallon plastic buckets. The nickle tank is closer to 6 gallons in a rectangular tub. I cannot plate big items but do a lot of small items like nuts and bolts, brackets and etc.. The 'copy cad' tank is used a lot to restore old zink and cad plated parts. The big advantage [for me] is that it is more than a hundred mile round trip to the nearest plate shop. And I don't have to wait; I can do the work today and assemble that Norton fender bracket tomorrow.
Posted on May 18, 2013, 11:00 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
That is true. It is an investment to get started. Sure, like a lot of other things there are folks that offer spectacular results with almost no investment and perfect results. But it is BS. A guy can gold and silver plate small things with a 9 volt smoke alarm battery. But chrome will require a lot of current and it will be nice [almost necessary] to have some specialized sanding / surface prep. / polishing equipment. I have saved hundreds and hundreds over the years doing my own motorcycle stuff. Nickle plating pistols is a very rewarding activity and also I do work for a couple of custom knife makers. There are a lot of parts on a car that are 'cad' plated. Almost none are polished. That hood latch, door strikers, relay cover, original nuts and screws and etc. can be made to look like new and all that is needed is one tank. That would be a good place to start.
Posted on May 20, 2013, 6:01 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
First the pot metal part must be stripped...in a reverse electrolysis tank. Then the pits evaluated....if there is major damage [deep rotten places]then gas welding on some special rod will be necessary. If just pits the item can be built up with copper and dressed down until the surface is correct. Of course you can't sand off the feathers on a 35 Chevrolet Master hood ornament so some skill and time is often necessary. Mostly time. Then the item is chromed [or nickle plated].
It has been a long time since I put together my hobby set-up so I am guessing that about $1500 was spent. That included the tank heaters [usually used for aquariums] the air blubbers, the various plating chemicals and metal plates and a number of other items like thermometers, time clock and plastic tanks. The variable output DC power supply I was lucky to acquire for free but it is only 25 amps max [can plate approx. 25 square inches of chrome] so a 12 volt car battery and a medium sized charger is used for bigger objects. But is no as handy to use because there is some fooling around necessary to get the current right when using a battery set-up. Too much or not enough current will screw things up. My 25 amp variable output power supply is more than enough for the copper and nickle using my tanks. Then there is the grinding, sanding, and polishing equipment. I believe a guy can get by with some simple machines [I did when I started and only acquired the more expensive stuff as time went on]. Again, I will not be without my plating equipment. It is rewarding and fun to do ones own parts. A chromed front axle for a Model B? No way. But all the smaller stuff [that can run into big bucks to have done] makes it all worth while. And I do it that same day and put the part on tomorrow.
Posted on May 21, 2013, 12:21 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Lee W. thanks for posting this additional information on this vehicle. So it is on a 1 1/2 ton K15 chassis. The explantion given that it was an altered 'bread van' for a movie explains a lot and removes some of the original impressions from yours truly and others. I couldn't get around the idea that someone would build an ambulance on a 1 1/2 ton chassis at 12,000 lbs. GVW. The answer, that it was not originally built as an ambulance, erases the question.
I hope it finds a good home. Frank
Posted on May 17, 2013, 10:44 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
well we had what they are calling a [wind event]not a tornado, but strong enough to flip my machine shed up side down and pull 15 trees out by the roots. Good news is no people or Studebakers hurt. But what a mess.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 9:13 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I have installed the Turner disk brake and dual master cylinder kits on my 2R5. Everything else is new also. The brakes bled out okay and they work well but there is a mile of pedal travel and the brakes don't engage until nearly at the bottom. They don't seem to pump up any.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 7:08 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Adjustments at the rear wheel shoes and / or pedal
There may be too much travel from shoe to drum. Your piston actuation at the master may be too short and have to be lengthened thru an adjustment or the rod itself is too short and needs to be replaced / fabricated.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 8:24 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
your Turner system but I had the same problem with my M15. It turns out that the brake shoes need to be adjusted regularly. If the shoes have a good bit of gap between the shoe and the drum the master cylinder has to provide the volume of brake fluid to move the shoes to contact the drums. If the shoes are adjusted closer to the drums then there will be less volume of brake fluid needed, thus less pedal movement. On my system it is important to get the brakes shoe heel and toe adjusted properly. Not just to provide even wear but to provide even braking power from right to left side so that the brakes don't pull to either side. I would think that their instructions would cover any adjustments needed. Is there a way to adjust the shoe (pad) to drum (disc) spacing?
Posted on May 17, 2013, 8:29 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The diagrams show additional valves added. I was talking about the ones usually installed in the master by the factory. So when you use a master intended for a firewall mount on the frame, the valves should be removed or changed to a different pressure. The diagram supports this.
Posted on May 19, 2013, 7:09 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Have low mileage M16 but none of the rear wheel cylinders were without pits. Nor were there any useable cylinders on another parts truck I was given. Looked for a couple of weeks at every sourse I could think of to get replacements...no luck. Seems that is a fact of life with an M 15, 16, 17. So I switched to DOT 5 fluid [silicon] and bead blasted the bores, filled the pits with J&B weld and then honed. Silicon fluid will not attack the J&B like DOT 3 or 4 will. One of my friends is on his twelfth year with a repair like that [on a 66 Vette].
In my opinion sleeving with stainless steel is a worse option as there are far too many reports of failure. Brass is, it seems, more reliable but you will have a bit of money in it before you're done. Contrary to popular notion the J&B/silicon thing is common.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 11:33 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
With the cylinders we will try and get the frozen pistons out and then hone the insides. If there were replacement pistons available that would help and we would not worry about damaging them in removing them. I'm poking around for the drums in the hope of a set that have some life left in them. We'll see!
Posted on May 18, 2013, 3:31 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
can now observe, I have my PC back in operation. Unfortunately, due to my own ineptness with modern technology, I have no e-mail service. I tried restoring it, but I used the wrong password and the more I tried to correct it, the worse things became. All the responses I get now tell me I'm a scammer or that someone has tried to lift my account. We'll get 'er done as soon as my son gets here to straighten out my account and ME. Frank
Posted on May 16, 2013, 3:19 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Hello, i`m from Portugal, I`ve a Studebaker M5 1947, can you help me in indicate where I can by parts or if you know ho make export to Portugal?
And I`ve some references that I can find any where 244426.
Posted on May 16, 2013, 12:56 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
This old Zip van was my Dads and I was able to talk him into selling it before he passed away. This thing was hideous to me, and I did not want anything to do with it really. My dad has a lot of nicer and rarer vehicles that deserved attention before this poor old thing.
A friend of mine heard about it and really wanted it. So, dad sold it really cheap to him. My friend Russ who is in his 70's took off like a shot on this thing and you see the results.
I would rather get rid of something and see it restored than have it sit around for years waiting for me.
The hubcaps came from someone here on STT. Thank you! He was able finish off his restoration!
Posted on May 16, 2013, 1:27 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Zane shame on you. Zip Vans were real working Studebaker truck! I have been looking a zip van for several years. I have two plans to do with it. one is to make a ice-cream truck. and drive it around town selling ice-cream to the kids. As a kid I couldn't wait for the sound of the Ice-cream truck to drive by the house after we got off from school. this to do after I retire for spending money.
The second is to restore like you friend did and give to me sister. she has a mail route she does in Fredericksburg Va. I would be cool for her to deliver the mail in a zip van instead of her car!
Posted on May 16, 2013, 2:41 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Hey I did the right thing by getting it to someone who really appreciates it. Sorry but a mail truck is just not my cup of tea. I can barely get my wife to ride in my Hawk yet alone a rusty old mail truck. It has a good home now.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 12:05 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I have a new unopened Dorman W19238 (257119) rear brake wheel cylinder that supposedly fits 7E5 and 7E7 Champs but not mine. It undoubtedly fits many other vehicles. If you are interested in acquiring it email me.
Posted on May 15, 2013, 11:21 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
When I first bought my Champ 7E7 I was told it needed a wheel cylinder on the left rear. So I bought one from a supplier in the US (I live in Canada). Then after I got more into the project I decided a complete brake replacement/rebuild would be in order so the Dorman cylinder sat on the shelf for months. When it came time to finish the brake job I took it off the shelf and realized it is the wrong cylinder. It has mounting holes at the same level and has a smaller cylinder bore than the ones on my truck. Mine have a 1 1/8" bore and have mounting bolts diagonally opposite each other. Mine are Wagner Lockheed FD-9178's. I went to four different auto parts stores. Two had listings for my 7E7 but both were only for the Dorman I bought. The FD-9178's don't show up on anyone's computer. I ended up honing the original cylinders and buying NAPA # 36 kits. They are fine for the inner seals and springs but they come with the wrong end seals, FC-5901. My helpful friend Joe Valenta who runs the NAPA store in Kenora, ON went the extra mile and located four end seals in a place called Western Air Brake in Winnipeg, MB. I bought them, my cylinders are rebuilt and hopefully I honed them enough but not too much. We'll see. My parts book does not list cylinders with a 1 1/8" bore for the 7E7 so I figure I have some kind of odd ball rear end. My backing plates look just like the picture but my rear wheel cylinders don't match.
Posted on May 15, 2013, 10:46 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
The Stude truck parts book shows that the 7E trucks had the same brakes as those used since the 1956 2E series. It was only the 63-64 8E Series that had the Lark brakes. Apparently the aftermarket parts books show the change taking place in the wrong year.
Posted on May 16, 2013, 7:59 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
...have tentative plans of attending the auction with my cousin. Mostly as an observer, but I suppose I should be prepared to bid,just in case something should come up. Registration requires posting a bond, having a letter of credit, etc.
Posted on May 15, 2013, 11:40 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Well to each his own. I don't see what the appeal of that ambulance is, in fact, I think it is a bit homely. What do you think the top speed of that thing is? I could imagine bleeding to death before you got to the hospital. But I'll tell you what. If it has no reserve on it and the starting bid is fifty bucks, then I'll put a bid in.
Posted on May 15, 2013, 3:26 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Studebaker trucks did not have the Champ engine in 1938!! The engine wouldn't be the thing to make it slow- the spur gear transmission would! But it would be a one-of-a-kind, it would draw a crowd at a truck/car show. You'd probably never see another one so equipped. Possibly the only one in existence. The back end makes it so unique-it is not the typical bread truck box. Please stop the comments about a camper or a hot rod- go buy a bowtie. Frank
Posted on May 15, 2013, 9:34 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
is listed as an ambulance body on an K15 Studebaker chassis. A K15 is listed in the Studebaker catalog as a 1 1/2 ton chassis with a standard Studebaker 225 ci. six cylinder engine. From the photos, I have a feeling this body is on a K10 one ton chassis. Either way, the same six cylinder engine propelled both down the road. This engine in 1938 produced 79 horsepower.
Looks can be deceiving, but this van looks as most 1 ton delivery (bread) vans of the era. The only major difference I observe is the rear hatch door which is more akin to ambulance doors of the era. The delivery vans had split side opening doors, so the back end of this vehicle is unique as well as being a Studebaker.
From a 21st Century viewpoint, it doesn't make sense Studebaker produced one ton rated trucks in the late 30's with the 225 six cylinder. Then with the introduction of the M15's in 1941, the only engine available was the 169 cubic inch Champion engine. Anyone having driven a 1 ton Studebaker truck from 1941 to 1950 knows from where I'm coming. I'm sure the bean counters and sales staff had their reasons for such a vehicle.
Anyway, this is a very unique Studebaker, perhaps a one-of-a-kind here in 2013. I would love to know the history of this vehicle, who conceived it, ordered it, and to what specific use it was intended in the emergency or medical field. Studebaker car chassis were used by a number of ambulance/funeral car builders in the 20's and 30's. This is the first 'truck based' ambulance on a Studebaker chassis in the post WWI and prior to WWII eras that I'm come across. I would like to hear what others have experienced with Studebaker truck-based ambulances
Thanks for your interest, Lee, in this very unique vehicle. It may be a one-of-a-kind.
Let us know what you find out. Wish I could be there. Frank
Posted on May 16, 2013, 3:02 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I kind of like it even though only the chassis is really Studebaker in origin. Might be more interesting if it at least had the front nose or even just a Studebaker grill. But it is still a cool looking little truck. The super square side door doesn't really seem to stand up to the rest of the truck. Messes up the flow of the body lines. Almost looks like they just used what they had laying around and slammed it on. Either that, or they gave the door job part to the fresh apprentice to figure out. The rest of the truck has some style. But the side door, not so much.
Posted on May 16, 2013, 5:36 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
owerners say they think it started out as bread truck
by mark thopson
1938 Studebaker Delivery Van Ambulance
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 1.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 1.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 2.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 3.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 4.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 5.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 6.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 1.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 2.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 3.JPG
1938 Studebaker Ambulance 0624 - 4.JPG
Current owners never tried to run it. It has been a display-only vehicle for some years. Believed to originally be a Studebaker Delivery Van (possibly a bread truck) and was painted as an ambulance later, possibly because it was repurposed for movies in California. Used in the 1992 Robin Williams movie, Toys.
height = 82, length = 16, width = 80
Size/type of drivetrain- motor, transmission 1938 Studebaker Flathead 4-speed
Not currently running. No mileage available. Some rust. Fairly minor work needed.
sold at No Reserve at this auction to the highest bidder.
Posted on May 17, 2013, 10:23 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199