PAN GASKET FOR 62 259 V-8 ????? I've had no luck at any of the parts distributors. I have one ordered at Summit Racing and found out today its on back order.
My son has been driving it every day and the pan has been dented in beyond repair and leaks. I have a new pan but no where can I find a pan gasket.
Doe's anyone "have" one I can get off you. I need it yesterday.
Posted on Jun 5, 2014, 9:14 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I would like to replace that cork washer(part number 191023) that sits inside the retainer on my '47 M5 that tucks into the recess of the rear brake drum. Do you guys know a source for that or would you suggest making one up from stock? The thing is, it needs to be a perfect circle. Any words of wisdom or past experience? It's illustration number 1002-29 on pg. 133 in the Parts Catalog. The one that's in there now appears to be cork anyway. It's pretty tired looking.
Posted on Jun 4, 2014, 11:42 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Fortunately, the old-style cork part was replaced by a felt seal. Use part # 197591. About $5.
The retainer/felt-washer assembly is part # 193049, sometimes available from Studebaker parts vendors. Call Studebaker International to check stock and price.
The inner seal is part # 516329, about $19 from Studebaker vendors.
Posted on Jun 5, 2014, 1:08 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
We just went through the 2 hour tour at the Charlotte Nascar track including all 3 tracks here but there are smaller ones inside the large track, It was an experience for me as I'm not very interested in this stuff, got to also see the media boxes, my sisterinlaw got a shot of one of the training cars crossing the finish line at about 110 miles per hour, I tried for the same shot but don't have the camera she now has, I traded her one of my camera's for one of the others I gave her a few years back. We all enjoyed ourselves, also went to art Gallery owned by Sam Bass, some pretty neat Auto Racing pictures in there along with his collection of Music Artists etc.
Were spending one more cheap night here for $25 a night tomorrow we head for Lenny's in Atlanta or just noth of that city for a quick visit then down to New Orleans as we have camp spot there booked for Friday and Saturday evenin $33 a night all inclusive, from there to Dallas then Sante Fe, Alburquque, Flagstaff, S. RIm Grand Canyon, Zion then work our way into Oregon.
Looking forward to getting home to cooler weather even if it rains 90*F and higher is not fun for me but the Gals are liking it.
JUst letting you all know.
Peter, Judy, Donna.
Posted on Jun 4, 2014, 6:08 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Since you are in 'race mode' don't ,eave Charlotte (well Mooresville actually) until you go to Richard Childress; DEI, and Roger Penske race shops.
About 'all' the NASCAR teams are headquartered there within a few miles of one another. They have a map that shows you exactly how to get to each one. If you have a 'favorite' driver, I figure you could find their shop easy.
I forgot to mention Hendrick Motorsports and JR Racing also....
Posted on Jun 4, 2014, 11:07 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
this time it is tours here and now hit the road for shuttle into town, Thanks Bob for the well wishes, Jim U just have to get out and do it tent, camper, canopy, m Home, Trailer behind old truck etc. and just do it. right now sitting here and enjoying the coolness of AC unit as were plugged in which is almost a must in these hot climes as temperature is warm here today.
Got to see Lenny's two toys real nice 63/64 Black Avanti and short bed yellow Champ PU, both real nice vehicles, also good that his wife likes them to. We met Grandma at same time and she is an aspiring painter or beautiful paintings of barns, sky, trees, covered bridges, she started painting just
Posted on Jun 7, 2014, 10:55 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Got a reply on my parts swap ad this morning from a guy with a brush guard from an M series. Are the differences between a guard for an M and a C minor enough to be easily overcomable or am I looking at apples and oranges? Thanks, Steve
Posted on Jun 4, 2014, 11:44 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Thanks, Thats kind of what I expected. Someone e-mailed me yesterday and said if I couldnt use this one he was interested in it. I lost the e-mail (disappeared when I tried to reply) but if you are still checking in please resend it and I will send you the sellers contact info. Thanks, Steve
Posted on Jun 5, 2014, 9:40 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Q: "runs good"...REALLY... IF I BUY THIS TRUCK, AND IT DOESNT RUN...REALLY GOOD"... YOU WILL BE SORRY... May-28-14
A: A threat? Really? As I stated the truck runs good.There is no knocking,no wierd noises,no smoking,clutch works,trans works (not a syncronized trans I am told.doesn`t shift like a 2014 silverado)good oil pressure.don`t know what else to say.The 6 volt system doesn`t turn it over very fast and it is a little cold blooded but It does start and run pretty good.would I drive it to california ? NO.It is a 65 year old truck
Q: if you pay shipping to Oklahoma City, I'm very interested at $ 2,000 Jun-01-14
A: you have been blocked from bidding on my items.please do not correspond with me again
Ha, ha, love that part. Best Q/A comments I have ever read on an ebay listing.
Posted on Jun 3, 2014, 2:10 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
After the auction closed, I e-mailed the seller, telling him of my interest, but the distance being a concern, HOWEVER, if the winning bidder backed-out, I would buy it and FIND a way to get it home...
Haven't heard anything, so, I assume it went to its new home...
Posted on Jun 20, 2014, 7:14 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I know, slightly off topic, but an afternoon with a Sawzall will have it converted to a pickup truck!
But seriously! I got this car a couple of years ago from a friend who needed to make space. He was actually talking about junking it, but I think the car is WAY too good for that ignoble fate...
The good: looks to be totally complete except for the headlamp inserts, tail lamp lenses, grill badge and one piece of exterior stainless steel trim.
The bad: engine is stuck, driver's side floor board and lower trunk lid have major rust issues. The driver's side rain gutter is pretty well rusted away and the right front fender has some poorly repaired impact damage, but otherwise the body seems miraculously solid and straight.
As I understand it the car was in restored condition as some point, but then was left exposed in in a backyard in a very damp and foggy area of the city. Last registration sticker on the license plate dates from 1980. I do have a title for this car.
Now I need to make some room so this car is again available. Hopefully one of you can revive it or at least use it's parts to bring back another example of this beautiful, art deco model. Car is located in San Francisco and I'd like to get $1,000 for it, but any reasonable offer will be considered. Please contact me off list if interested.
Posted on Jun 2, 2014, 8:07 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I recently purchased a Studebaker truck. The title shows serial number as M15A-7 106. Body type is EXPR. Truck. Model is M15A. And that it is a 1946. This is my first Studebaker, so if anyone can help me understand what all this means id really appreciate any and all help.
Posted on Jun 2, 2014, 7:18 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
The vehicle serial plate provides the vehicle serial number, now called the VIN. The "28" indicates the wheelbase is 128". The body tag "C2" just tells you that the truck has a standard (not deluxe) cab, and provides the serial number of the cab itself. They were used to keep track of running changes in the cabs and have no other significance.
Posted on Jun 3, 2014, 7:55 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Got home from vacation in OR and noticed some oil on the right rear rim and little puddle between the dual on the driveway. Also oil on the axle shaft end. Fairly sure it is not brake fluid as it does not smell like it and is thick like gear oil. Have not taken it apart yet though.
I know that bearings in these old Timkens are not lubricated by the differential gear oil like a modern Dana 60 but can some of the gear oil get out to the end of the axle tube to where the bearings are? If so is this normal?
When I had the hubs off last I greased the bearings and noticed that there was cone shaped sheet metal formed to direct any oil that came out of inner bearing seal to be directed to the outer rim and away from the brakes. Thought that was clever but would have been better to use a modern seal instead of felt...
Posted on Jun 2, 2014, 5:01 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I do believe that the rear axle lube can travel down the axle tubes and into the hub, especially if the truck is run or parked on a slope. There is supposed to be a gasket between the axle end and the hub and also a seal under the inner adjusting nut and the outer bearing to prevent contamination of the grease with axle lube. I know that there is some oil in the axle tubes on my M16 because it is seeping out of the joint between the axle tube and the differential housing. I got some original gaskets for mine but I didn't like the fact that they were thin paper and I wasn't sure they would really make a secure seal, so I used them as a pattern to make my own gaskets. Unfortunately I used a material that is real sticky when compressed between two surfaces and now my axles are so "glued" to the hub it is very difficult to remove them. If I pull my axles again I'm going to use a different material, but they sure don't leak.
Posted on Jun 4, 2014, 1:33 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I'm not sure that would really be a good idea, because if the truck was running on a slope or parked on a slope the oil would drain out all over everything. I do believe, though, that the oil level in the differential is actually slightly above the bottom of the axle tubes when the differential is full and the truck is on the level. Maybe the more practical solution would be to just not fill the differential to the bottom of the fill plug, but rather maybe an inch down. I'm sure there would still be more than enough lube for the gears.
Posted on Jun 5, 2014, 6:20 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
a problem but maybe better than taking everything apart just to regrease the bearings because of gear oil contamination. It is a good idea to fill it a bit less. I would just have to check it more often to be sure it doesn't run to low.
Posted on Jun 5, 2014, 8:29 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I have two 352 Packard engines to sell for another person. One is complete less carburetor and generator, I have not yet seen all the parts for the second one but believe them to be there. One engine is complete with an Automatic transmission, As near as I can tell the other is equipped with a 3 speed Overdrive. It is my belief the engine with the Automatic trans could be running with a little effort. The Overdrive equipped engine is not yet at my house. the picture is of the Automatic equipped. These are being offered here first. If you are an interested BUYER write me at my blue name above.
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 10:59 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I was just talking to my son last night about the Packard motors that were in the 300 cube displacement size's and here they are. I have to many motors stored now to afford any more but I'd love to get my hands one them if I could.
And I'm betting you live no where near to me here in the P.N.W.
Posted on Jun 6, 2014, 1:17 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
8 or 10 years ago Gary Ash was really nice to me and loaned me the "skates" he built to move his M5 cab around on while he was working on it. He sent them to me free of charge (from his place on the east coast all the way out to Washington State) and after all this time I finally have my cab finished and am in the process of building it out. I have it mounted to the frame now and am working on the interior. I am happy to return the favor Gary did for me by sending these along to someone else who is at that stage in their project. They are really handy, you can push the cab around with one hand once you mount it on these. Its my privilege to pass along some of the great goodwill expressed here on this forum.
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 7:35 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I have seen plans for body dolly's for Corvettes when doing frame off restorations. Just curious if the Studebaker Truck world has any such plans to fab up some skates or dollies. I have never taken the cab off yet, so maybe it is just a flat platform and no fancy dolly or measurements are needed. I have a 4 post lift that came with those big casters to move it around the shop. I have been wanting to re-purpose those casters for something that I would actually use.
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 11:21 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Re: Not to steal Gary's thunder, this is what I fabricated....
When I was working on my C cab I had to be able to move the cab around in my driveway which has a some loose pebbles. Instead of solid casters I went to Harbor Freight and bought 4 small pneumatic wheels and bolted them to a 4 sided 2x6 frame. I made the frame so the cab would straddle the frame slightly. This is a very simple design. Just over lap the 2x6's at each corner, using the wheel mount plate transfer drill 2 holes through the 2x6's and attach the wood and the wheel with (2) 5/16 carriage bolts. Repeat on all 4 corners. Done.
You will have to add some blocks of wood to locate some mounting/leveling points. What is real handy is this dolly can be easily pushed onto a trailer and transported to the sand blaster or the paint shop. My finish body guy used it in the paint booth after which I rolled it onto our trailer and took it home.
Posted on Jun 3, 2014, 10:22 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I found cab body tag (not truck serial)from a 57 3E that I parted out several years ago. It's in good condition and reads:
Studebaker- Packard Corp. Correspondence pertaining to the cab must bear these numbers
CAB No 2183
TRIM No T-6053
PAINT No P-5751
Anybody want it? If so it's yours for mailing cost.
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 4:05 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I can't offer any advice on how to do it though. But, I'd be interested in how it turns out for you if you do it. The '61 Champ I purchased recently has a fixed window in it currently and the seal has shrunk so likely needs some attention. I was thinking I would put the sliding window in if I was going to go through the trouble. I should have all the main hard parts with the extras that came with the truck, but will also need the wear parts. If you don't mind, please let us know how it goes for yourself.
Posted on May 31, 2014, 9:02 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
.. useful if you have a hitch hiker you want out of your truck. I found all it is good for is to blow the dirt and debris that's in the bed into the back of your head, so if you open the passenger side, they'll want to be put out at the side of the road soon. Needless to say, I find it really unpleasant and never open mine.
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 11:20 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
SLiding window is the best and cheapest AC on can have
I had the same in my 63 Champ, I would open the vents then open the slider about 3" on either side and we got real good air movement giving us cool without installing a AC unit.
Mark C. installed AC unit in his 49 2r5 but he also installed a pop out window so we turned the AC unit off and popped the back window and opened the vent windows and right away we had cooling
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 10:53 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Installing the sliding glass rear window in a T cab truck is very easy. The parts are available at Studebaker International. The parts I have not found are the locks. If you will pay close attention when you take the glass out you will find it goes back in just as easy. Consider replacing the rubber as well. The channel works around the top and down each side and there is a single piece for the bottom. The lock clips help hold the side channel in place.
Posted on May 31, 2014, 10:39 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
after reading the instructions and having looked at the window
I hope it turns out as simple
i'll take pictures before, after and during for anyone interested.
changing window channel sounds easier than adding pictures to this post..
thanks for help
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 5:51 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I could never get the latches to line up and lock properly, your going to have to find a wrecked T-Cab with similar glass and take them off but don't count on them working, in the I cut 2 pcs of wood and stuck them into the back and inside so no one could get in but having canopy on back no one noticed my lock system.
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 10:59 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
well I talked to Studebaker intl. for $170 they're sending me all I need to redo the sliding back windows.
the 64 champ goes in the shop tomorrow to get rear spring bushings, shocks, Bo's new steering box installed ans Bob Helm's A/C kit installed.. should have it back in couple weeks..then i'll do the window channel
Posted on Jun 2, 2014, 10:59 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
1947, M15a, last driven 1967.
50+ walnut shells, 1966 almanac, small note book 1967, one pair of brand new in package men's underwear. Nails, small chain....
Last but not the least......
The tire removal tool set!
Posted on May 31, 2014, 12:41 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Starting to rethink my choice of buying this cool truck. I'm currently having a new problem of the engine chugging at high rpms when driving (seems to stop when shifted into neutral and revved up). Feels like it's running out of gas. What could be the problem?
Posted on May 31, 2014, 11:02 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
My thoughts on the most probable causes:
Spark plug wires
Sufficient fuel supply (read this as not getting enough gas from the tank)
Distributor shaft play
Carburetor float levels
I'd start with a good complete tune up with all new components, new fuel filter and then work down the list. If it were a vacuum leak or valve issue it really should show up much more at idle than under load.
Posted on May 31, 2014, 11:53 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
problem recently after changing several things. The problem turned out to be the spark plugs were gaped to great. The problem would go away when I switched to points from Pertronix. The other thing I noticed was that the tach would read high with points as opposed to Pertronix. Reset the gap on the plugs to 0.030" and problem gone. I think the 6 volt Pertronix is not such a good ignition and couple that with to greater a gap on the plugs some missing occurred at higher RPMs. The other thing I noticed is that the engine runs much smoother with points compared to Pertronix. Yes, the timing is the same... I now have a plug and play solution for swapping out points vs Pertronix with just the points plate screws and one connector. Timing is maintained. The only issue I have is the points plate screws are the standard slotted and a little hard to get started while the distributor is in the truck. I'm thinking that Phillips screws and maybe make them captive with "E" clips...
Posted on May 31, 2014, 5:15 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Just yesterday I was having the issue of 289 V8 engine newly rebuilt running for months running very we'll,
we took it out on the road yesterday went 1/2 mile then cutting out ,NO sputtering for the
lack of fuel , strong spark and all nothing loose , then i remembered the points were "Petronics" a bad deal they were made in
China, I have used the Pretroncs on other cars with no issues one car for ten years and the other for eight ,However
they were made in the USA .
I have cone across discussions with other Mechanics that ail no longer use Petronics electronic points and have returned to traditional Point sets. and customers have had no issues.
BRUCE M .
Posted on May 31, 2014, 6:09 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
it helped a lot. I have a "T" right at the carb inlet for the return line. Hole in the fitting for the return line is about 0.040". The fuel pressure with that return hole is about 4 lbs. The only issue I have is that Carter pump is noisy. But then again I know it is running when I'm stopped at a light...
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 8:12 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
a model 2R10-122 with serial number R10-19949 with a V8 engine from a later Studebaker truck. Let's do the numbers-
2....designates the trucks built for the 1949-1953 model years by the Studebaker Corp. of South Bend, Indiana,
R....designates the series of Studebaker trucks built for the 1949-1954 model years,
10...code for a nominal rating for a 3/4 ton chassis with a 8 foot box or other styles of bodies provided by the factory or by an after-market supplier, and
122..indicates the wheelbase of the chassis, in this case 122 inches measured from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle. All 3/4 ton chassis built during the 2R run were of this length.
Serial number R10-19949
R....same as above,
10...same as above, and
19949..means the sequential order in which this R10 truck came off the assembly line. In the 1949 production run, 21,000 R10's were manufactured. Your truck was 1051 units from the end of the model year.
Hope this helps. Frank
Posted on May 31, 2014, 12:47 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I did not intend my statement to insinuate you were the truck's owner. I used that terminology about the photos you had posted for us. I'm sure everyone had some interest in your post. The truck is now a one-of-a-kind. I don't remember actually seeing a late 2R 1 tonner pickup.
I hope the truck gets into a Studebaker enthusiast's hands before the ground absorbs it. I shows possibilities. Thanks again for posting. Frank
Posted on May 31, 2014, 6:49 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Yes, they/it were factory on some models, though I only remember seeing a one-piece unit that is wider than it is long. Most seem to have been taken off for servicing something up front and not re-installed. I've only seen a couple of trucks that still had them.
Posted on Jun 2, 2014, 6:52 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
In this crappy picture you can see the after-market gauges and the 12v LEDs for turn signal indicators.
These were like $2.50 each from a Marine store. The toggle switches are for the lock-up torque converter on
the 700R4 transmission and an electric fan override.
Tim is a perfectionist. The glass fenders weren't smooth enough to suit him!
Posted on May 30, 2014, 10:24 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
the guy where i got it from said his dad had a 1937 Studebaker and its believed to be from that i can get pictures because i have them here with me i will try this is my first time selling anything on internet
Posted on Jun 26, 2014, 3:31 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I am a Studebaker fan, and have been all my life. As a matter of fact the only car I have ever owned (car, not truck as I own one of those as well, but not running.) has been a 1957 Studebaker President Broadmoor station wagon which currently has 623,000 miles on it and runs perfectly!
So in my case it has been one lifetime, one car! My Studebaker goes everywhere, since it is all I have it is all I drive. But now I am going to rebuild the truck, and I am going to modify it to be my retirement vehicle. I am 69 and it is time to have some fun.
I want to put an independent suspension under the front end in place of the I beam that it now has. I also want to convert it from a 6 foot bed to an 8 foot bed which I will modify.
I have two questions:
I have seen a Studebaker truck that had a Chevy independent front end under it and at the time the owner told me that he had no trouble bolting it into place. He also told me what it was, but I have forgotten the year.
So, my first question is: Can any of you please tell me what year of Chevy independent suspension bolts up the the Studebaker frame?
My second question is, can anyone please tell me what the distance is from the outside of the bed (the very end) to the center of the rear axle?
Many thanks for any help you may be able to give me!
PS...I am looking for an 8 foot bed as well, the wider one, and free from damage.
Posted on May 30, 2014, 12:05 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I have considered both of those, I saw the 3rd party stuff on the net which uses the Mustang front end and wrote them an inquiry to see if they considered their product suitable for a working truck rather than a street rod. They never answered me.
I am wary of those light duty front ends because I plan to really use this truck to haul a camper and a lot of fuel, so I need something able to handle the weight.
But I appreciate your suggestions.
By the way, I have a frame for a T style cab available if anyone should want one. No running gear, just the frame.
Posted on May 31, 2014, 11:11 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Hans.... I understand your concern but I've read a few articles that indicate MII front ends have larger ball joints and tie rod end studs than those of similar sized subframes and are the same size used on all of their full size vehicles.
Course, I'm by no means an expert so I guess I would try and contact FatMan again. They got back to me when I inquired about where a local shop was that uses their products. Unfortunately the closest was up in San Jose... not very close by any means!
Anyways, good luck!
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 1:52 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I will do as you suggest and try and contact them once again.
The reason why I need the front end to be very solid is that I want this truck for some serious travel. I have designed a camper for it that would provide me with everything I, and a friend, would need to take some long trips.
And while the camper will compress to just 6" above the cab roof when closed, it still would weigh up with 50 gallons of water, and a large tank of propane and 100 gallons of fuel in the truck and a large propane tank there as well.
I will see if the front clips they make will take that kind of load over unimproved roads (our first trip is being planned to Tierra del Fuego) I don't want any failures especially being a long long way from home!
Again I thank you for your consideration.
PS...The frame I had available needs to be withdrawn as it turns out that I can use it after all!
Posted on Jun 1, 2014, 4:35 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I have considered doing that...and you are right regarding it being a work saving option. But it would not be a Stude. I know that using a front end off of something else would not be a Stude part either, but at least the rest would be.
I want to retain as much as possible of the original mark, I do not feel bad about upgrading things using 3rd party suppliers like Turner for brakes, etc.
I have looked at independent front ends made by 3rd party folks and while they do look solid, it seems that the makers don't consider them solid enough to carry real weight, something which I would need to do.
I still have not made a final decision about this, right now I am cleaning out the garage to give me the room I need to start work. But I do thank you for your suggestion. I appreciate learning about other methods from people who may have thought about or already done what I intend to do.
Posted on Jun 7, 2014, 10:14 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Took me a full hour just to move a couple of blocks to get onto the highway to get out of San Francisco this afternoon and back over to home. That was exactly the kind of scene I was dreaming of while sitting in my car wasting time.
Posted on May 29, 2014, 9:48 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
and if one of them is y0urs did it not rust away as they were bad for rusting in Canada? Lew were between Harrisburg and Gettysburg in a Campground, the one in Hershey kicked everyone out because the Girl Guides are showing up there this weekend and next weekend so we went to the Civil war Museum in Harrisburg and if none of you have not been there your missing your history Lessons that were not in the books in school.
We also did the Hershey Museum,we also went to the Chocolate Store for Lunch and sugar free candies for me, While in Harrisburg we went to the supposedly largest Material Store in the USA but it is not the largest the one in Portland Oregon is the largest that we know of. Then the Gals did the Tanger Outlet stores in Hershey before Harrisburg, running a 26' MH through all those narrow streets was dicey but Judy did a pretty good job even if I have to say so.
Tomorrow it will be Gettysburg then we work our way to Bob Feaganes place in N.C. Can anyone suggest what to see in Gettysburg?
Posted on May 30, 2014, 8:56 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I'm a member but only have limited time to spend with club. I met them at the spring dust-off in April but haven't been able to get to a meeting. The meetings are in your neighborhood at Marjory Post Park. BTW, I'm looking for 6-lug wheels for my M12. Do you know of any for sale or possibly a good wheel restoration shop on LI? I've been to Long Island Wheels and Atlantic Wheels but both were unable to handle the work.
Posted on Jun 6, 2014, 4:45 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
The above motor home wheels generally work well on the Ms having the 5 lug x 8" pattern, assuming your truck has a stud piloted mounting. John Weinrich has them on his truck. The 19.5" tubeless wheel has the exact same center disc as the 17" tube types that were sourced on similar Ms. The 2.5" extra diameter comes from the use of a drop center 15° profile outer rim. If you wish to stay with pure original tube types the 17" x 4.33" Budd #44820 is another option. Both an 8R19.5" radial and 7.50" x 17" tube type bias ply tire will have a 33.5" - 34" outside diameter. Stu
Posted on May 29, 2014, 4:24 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I sent out a message that I was back after being off the computer circuit for over a week. One hour after I posted that, this cotton-picking, _)&^(*y^holhit+)*$ PC was down again. It's taken another week to get #2 son back here to attempt to make it obey my commands. So far so good. We'll see how long it lasts.
I have some making up to do. Fran, I'll see you in Dover. It'll be great to see the '31 firetruck with its' new clothes. No, I do not know of a source for the parts you asked about earlier. I'm really looking forward in meeting you in the flesh. I'll try to copy some of my '31 literature for you and the guys.
I know I owe communications with others and I'll catch up with you as I clear out my backlog. Thanks so much, Frank
Posted on May 28, 2014, 9:24 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Disregard on the hood latches Frank. We just misplaced them in al the confusion of this project.
What days are you planning on being in Dover. WE may not be able to have the '31 Studebaker there all week.
Posted on May 30, 2014, 10:32 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I'm getting ready to send off some M5 wheel cylinders for renovation. I happen to have some spare axles around from accruing parts over the years and thought I'd take off some of those wheel cylinders also and check to see what kind of shape they're in and maybe get some of those rebuilt. Everything has stepped cylinders of course, but I noticed that some are 1 1/8", some 1 1/4" and some 1 3/8". I was surprised to see that. The parts book doesn't seem to indicate different sizing throughout the years. Each cylinders small end measured 1". Are those differing sizes anything to take into account? The truck I'm working on had the 1 1/4" ones. That's not to say they were the ones that were supposed to be in there. Heck, whoever was in there before me, reassembled the whole kit & kaboodle wrong anyway. What say you guys?
Posted on May 28, 2014, 6:18 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
You can find some help on the bottom of page 173 in the M series parts manual. It shows the diameters listed in the piston rebuild section. They are:
- Large front cylinder: 1 3/8"
- Large rear cylinder: 1 1/4"
- Small cylinder (all): 1"
While it does show a listing for an 11/16" on the small rear cylinder of larger trucks like the M15, I see no listing for a 1 1/8" option.
I hope this helps.
Posted on May 29, 2014, 6:20 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Thanks jh. Looking at that and giving it further thought gives me insight and food for thought. Although, as you mentioned, I'm not sure where that 1 1/8" cylinder I have comes in to play. Someone must have used it in a pinch.
Posted on May 29, 2014, 3:40 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
The C&G site is excellent. While the exact sizes are not shown on the item pull up; a 1947 wheel cylinder looks just like the Wagner Lockheed units used on our M5's. Has anyone checked to see if they carry the 1 1/4 x 1 units as well? If they don't what would be the real harm in using the 1 3/8 x 1 units on the rear as well as the front, if there's clearance?
You would be adding cubic volume to the overall brake circuit, which could result in a lower overall brake pedal position to achieve positive stop, but perhaps that could be managed.
I would really appreciate your thoughts on this one. It could be a good find for Greg and the rest of the M5 truck farmers.
Posted on May 30, 2014, 6:07 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Figgered I'd better introduce myself formally, been lurking here for a while and gathering tons of info.
Names Scott, 1959 model. Born and raised in Buchanan, MI about 10 miles north of South Bend. I've been restoring "N" model Ford tractors for a while, but when it cane time to get a truck it pretty much had to be a Studie. Found this one on Craigs list, talked to the guy four (!!!) times, he wanted $3500 but offered it to me for $2500 for "one day only" so I went and got my trailer after driving it. 3E6 W/4E 245 plus overdrive. Ordered new side windows while I've been working on gauges and wiring plus getting everything else operational. Brakes with a front disc kit are next on the list. Going to be a company daily driver, so no fancy bodywork, probably shoot it with clear or dark grey primer/clear, not sure yet. The wheels/tires were something I had "in stock" but I'll go for some 215-85/16's when she's road ready.
The first of many, but did any of our members used to restore Studie cars and trucks in a building on Red Bud Trail South behind an old farmhouse back in the 70's? My dad used to lease out a backbuilding to a bunch of guys while I was in high school.
This tailgate came with my truck, but it's 49" wide and I need a 51.5. I think it fits the earlier 50 models.PM me if you've got any ideas. I've already got manuals, joined SDCF, here, and Farmers so I'll be around for a bit.
Norm, the "ex" Lurker
Posted on May 27, 2014, 11:09 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
The guy on Red Bud Trail was one Jim McClellen. He passed away some years ago. He was a heck of a good guy and I bought many parts and a couple of cars from him. His pride and joy was a '56 Golden Hawk in Ceramic green and Shasta white. I think his wife and sons are still in the area.
I drive a '57 3E7 every day. Look for it in the Kalamazoo area. You will be very happy with your truck.
Posted on May 28, 2014, 10:58 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I didn't know Jim McClellen, but I grew up in Bucktown.
The farm on RedBud south of buffalo was my families, with the "Studebaker" building out back. Heck, we still called it that 40 years later! It was after my time, but I'll bet Bakertown had something to do with Mike Olmstead, his dad had the dealership in Galien. I've been out west since '79, so I kinda doubt I'll see you in the 'Zoo..... Currently live in North Idaho, we've got a couple members out here in the PNW.
Posted on May 28, 2014, 11:50 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Which part of North Idaho? My good friend Norm and I left a couple of Studebakers (52 Commander 4 door & 57 Hawk) on my aunt and uncles place in Bonners Ferry back in the late 60's when we were in high school. The Idaho Highway bought that property to improve the North grade of US 95 out of Bonners.
Posted on May 29, 2014, 4:11 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Live in the Lewiston/Clarkston valley, have a cabin up outside Troy.
Spent several years up in Sandpoint, one of my favorite bike loops was up to Bonners, over to Troy MT, down Bear Valley to 90, over to CDA then back to Sandpoint. Pretty ugly terrain without a curve anywhere
Posted on May 29, 2014, 11:21 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11