STUDEBAKER TRUCK TALK

A forum for any messages related to Studebaker Trucks

Less than 24 hours left on the Scotsman

by Lee W.

Unless there is a flurry of last minute bidding, and there typically is, this thing will go for a give-away price.

http://musickauction.auctionflex.com/showlot.ap?co=58482&weid=41608&weiid=14740838&archive=n&lso=lotnumasc&pagenum=3?=en

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:44 PM
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Maybe I was premature in my prediction

by Lee W.

I guess there is a public auction to be held in addition to the internet bidding ?

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:50 PM
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Simply cant

by R-Bucket

I simply cant afford to get it. The guy that is bidding on it appears to be bidding on several of the Studebakers. I sure hope it is not a scrapper. but bills must come first even if I tried one more time my max would be 400. and that's not leaving me enough to pay the bills. at all LOL.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:36 PM
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Good luck with the bidding tomorrow, pulling for your win.

by Jeff S.

Hopefully if it does go to the other bidder, maybe that individual is saving them for the parts.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:54 PM
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$555 with 2 1/2 hours left

by Lee W.

Add the 10% for the buyers premium and I think it's safe to assume that this truck is not going to the scrap heap.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 12:42 PM
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red Champ

by MW

Now less than 1 hour for this red Champ:

http://musickauction.auctionflex.com/showlot.ap?co=58482&weid=41608&weiid=14749312&archive=n&lso=lotnumasc&pagenum=3?=En

Kind of wish I could drag it home. I really hope it doesn't at least go to the crusher. I don't know what scrap would be for it. Hopefully not worth it to a scrap dealer.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:28 PM
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Full flow engine?

by Lee W.

Kind of hard to speculate whether it going to someone who'll scrap it or try to salvage it. The bigger trucks looked like they were destined for the scrap heap. Kuna is not that far from Boise, I'm sure there are some recyclers there so the logistics are not an issue when it comes to scrapping a vehicle. Crush it, shred it, load it in a railroad condola, and haul it to the closest port city, in this case Portland. Home of Schnitzer Steel.
The Scotsman got some respectable money for it $900-1000, so I think it'll live to see another day.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:58 PM
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Full Flow Engine

by Eric L

Lee..... could you elaborate for me on the difference of a full flow motor? I keep hearing that and have wondered exactly what it means!

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 9:27 PM
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Re: Full Flow Engine

by Steve Dotson

In a full flow engine all of the oil enters the system and gets routed directly through the filter. In a partial flow system the filter is fed through a bypass and only part of the oil is filtered. Others can elaborate on what percentage but I have heard 25-50%. The easy way to differentiate between the two on a Stude V-8 is look at the location and design of the filter. The full flow will be mounted on the low right rear of the block and will be a spin on filter attached directly to the block. You will see no piping to the filter of any kind. The partial flow filter can be a cartridge or a spin on but will be mounted remotely, usually at the top front of the engine. I havent looked at a P/F v-8 in a while but as I recall they feed through an external tube from one of the oil galley plugs and return through the fill tube like the 6's. By nature it follows that principle anyway and you will see some sort of piping to the filter. There are some other external signs but being Studes you cant always count on those to guide you. Steve

Posted on Mar 22, 2014, 1:22 AM
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I might elaborate....

by Lee W.

...Studebaker didn't come out with a full flow V-8 until 1962-63. As far as I know, all their sixes remained partial flow until the end. The vast majority of Studebaker engines you see will be partial flow engine. Also, back in the day, partial flow filtration was an add-on option.

Posted on Mar 22, 2014, 1:17 PM
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Basically, just need to change the oil more often with a partial flow filter

by MW

The full flow helped extend the life of the oil and also maybe caught a few more bigger particles.

Partial flow still a little better than none at all which was standard as Lee noted.

Remember, before the 70's - 80's, getting 100K mile out of a vehicle was a notable accomplishment. Now we have some cars you could probably get 100k never changing the oil once.


Posted on Mar 22, 2014, 3:46 PM
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No Flow Engine...!

by Eric L

Wow..... so I went out and checked my motor over and I'll be.... I never even thought or noticed but there is no oil filter! What does that mean? Is there a way to add an external filter as was mentioned in one of the responses? My motor is a 1956 Commander 56B according to the serial number. Is this motor worth dumping money into?

Posted on Mar 23, 2014, 1:25 AM
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Re: No Flow Engine...!

by Steve Dotson

Yes, you can add a partial flow setup. I will leave it to others to determine whether the benefits are worth the labor though to me some filtration is better than none. Steve

Posted on Mar 23, 2014, 11:19 AM
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Aftermarket oil filter kits

by Skip Lackie

Studebaker offered add-on oil filter kits, complete with instructions, for installation by either dealers or owners, and these sometimes come up on ebay. I don't have my parts books handy, so I can't give you the AC number. Universal kits were available at one time from any auto parts store -- and a place like NAPA may still be able to get one. The only thing unique about the Stude kits was the mounting bracket, fittings, and hose lengths were specifically designed for each engine and application. So (for example) one designed for a Stude V8 car engine might not fit perfectly on a truck because the hose/tubing lengths were different to accommodate differences in the water pump manifold, carburetor, etc.

What you might want to do is buy a used partial flow filter setup from someone parting out a Stude V8, and then buy new hoses/oil lines for it as necessary. The container and filter will be the same.

Posted on Mar 24, 2014, 9:57 AM
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Thaks for the info guys....!

by Eric L



Posted on Mar 24, 2014, 10:56 AM
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' 41 M15 grain truck at auction 3/22 Tiffin OH

by jacks

http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctionview.cgi?lid=2018374

Looks like an unusual truck, only has 62k miles.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:27 PM
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41 M15

by

This is not a 41 M15, it is a 42 blackout M15. The bumper and hub caps are both painted black and the headlight rims are body color. The stainless center stripe and the nose emblem should be Tusk Ivory, but somebody just painted over them, (same as mine was when I started on it.) The serial No. places it about in the middle of 1942 production.

Roger List

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 7:31 PM
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I finally got the rear end back

by Fred

together. What a pain in the ***. This is my first ring & pinion swap. I replaced the 4.88 with a 3.92 with all new bearings , shims and seals. Drives real nice . I haven't tried the highway yet, I want to put on a few more miles around town. It does seem the speedometer is off, I'll check it with the GPS. Big thanks to the guys who helped with my questions.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 6:12 PM
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Know what you're talking about

by Frank from Germany

But it's worth the labor.
Changed my R&P from 5.11 to 4.11, truck is 10 mph faster then the speedo shows.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:25 AM
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if you check with 4x4 shops for speedo gears

by Anonymous

for a speedometer adjustment they are the place to go, They will have all kinds of them as they change so much on the jeeps and 4x4's that they need a lot to work with.

Posted on Mar 23, 2014, 2:03 AM
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Hill holder

by

I think my truck once had a hill holder but it's been removed. Do any of you guys have one on your truck? Can you tell me if was wise of someone to take it off? I'd like to put one back on the truck but not if it's a pain-in-the-neck part. thanks. -Tom

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 4:56 PM
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hill holder

by vern

not sure why any body would take one off unless the didn't know how to adjust, I have some pickups in salvage with them on, also R16 with hill holder

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 5:54 PM
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Re: Hill holder

by Doc

I had one on my 61 Hawk. It worked great.
A repair kit is available for them, I believe from SI.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 5:55 PM
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re: Hill Holder

by JeffR

Hill Holders are magical.
The first time you drive a Stude with one (that is working properly and adjusted right)...
You don't even know it is there and working until you don't roll backwards.
Then you smile and say to yourself... "It's magic"!!!!

Why anyone would disconnect one is beyond me...
Jeff

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 1:59 PM
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now I have to find one

by

Because mine is long gone. Thanks for you the feed back.

Posted on Mar 27, 2014, 4:48 PM
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Traction tire options

by MW

OK, so I'm doing some more research and here are my options so far for getting vintage farm truck looking tires for the Champ.

Anybody with any thoughts or recommendations on any of these options would be appreciated.

Cooper Courser Traction, which I have an 12 year old set on my 2R11 - never a problem, but apparently no longer available unfortunately even though this website source still shows them online:
http://www.jackfurriers.com/showcaseproductdetail.htm?ID=3167360&Brand=89&Type=3010&fm=1
http://www.jackfurriers.com/showcaseproductdetail.htm?ID=3167298&Brand=89&Type=3010&fm=1

But, they do have these similar ones from Hercules:
$147 each: http://www.jackfurriers.com/showcaseproductdetail.htm?ID=5626669&Brand=323&Type=3010&fm=1
$119 each: http://www.jackfurriers.com/showcaseproductdetail.htm?ID=5624662&Brand=323&Type=3010&fm=1

Here is option 2 from a company called Samson, seems like the cheapest option, confirmed to be in stock. The seller said they have never had any notable problems with them:
http://www.nebraskatire.com/light-truck?page=1

Option 3 is from a company called Deestone, confirmed in stock:
http://www.millertire.com/products/truck-tires/antique-truck-tires/7-00-15/7-00-15-deestone-traction/
http://www.millertire.com/products/trailer-tires/7-00-15/7-00-15-deestone-hwy-rib/

And the last option again from STA, confirmed in stock. Claims to be made in the US, but possible quality concerns:
http://www.lucasclassictires.com/15-700x15-LT-STA-Super-Traxion-6PR-59132L.htm

They have this highway tread tire for the front, but I'm not big on the smooth, no detail sidewall look:
http://www.lucasclassictires.com/15-670x15LT-STA-Super-Transport-6PR-579991L.htm

But they do have this vintage looking tire with some more interesting detail I could probably use:
http://www.lucasclassictires.com/15-670x15-Universal-BW-57854L.htm




Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 3:19 PM
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tires

by vern

I would use the hercules tire, front steer and rear traction 700x15, makes for good husky looking truck. I sold tires for 50 years, would only recomend cooper for tire swing, I would put 8 ply on the rite side of my pickup just in case the wife wanted to go along

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 6:01 PM
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careful there Vern

by Randy Belgum

divorce is more expensive than tires [ i would know]

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 8:14 PM
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truck tires

by

Mike : You mentioned in an earlier posting about wanting American made tires , if possible . Well I know that Hercules are Korean tires . I don't know for sure , but I would guess that Samson and Deestone are also imports . As far as Coopers go , I guess that everyone has an opinion , but for me , Coopers are usually my first choice , I've been buying their light truck tires for about 35 to 40 yrs now and have been very satisfied with them . But then that's just my experience , maybe I've just been lucky . But in the end , it's your money , your decision . Also , I got a call from Rick yesterday about a couple more parts he found for the Champ , so I went to his place today to get them . One was the 'under the frame' spare tire carrier , and the other was a custom made rear engine support , apparently fabricated by Ingvar Vick . I'll bring them down with me in a few weeks . Bob Cruse

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 8:19 PM
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Thanks Bob

by MW

I have had the Cooper Courser Tractions on the green '53 as I mentioned for about 12 years now. I've also had pretty good experience with them. Never any problems at all actually. I've never have even had to put air in them once after the initial install. The rubber on them still looks in very nice condition, not aged badly etc. and I leave it parked outside 24/7. They also never seem to have the commonly complained about bias problem of having a flat spot after sitting for a while. And they ride quite nicely on the highway. The front ones have a slightly odd wear problem, but that is probably due to the old, less that factory spec. front end. However, the truck rides down the highway nice and straight and no vibrations or any of that kind of stuff. So, the Coopers were definitely my first choice, but it seems they are no longer an option as they have apparently stopped making them.

One other thing to note, the 12-13 year old Coopers on my 2R11 are actually made in Taiwan. I noticed that when I went to check on them when planning for the tires for the Champ. So, those aren't US made either.

The only ones of this type of tire that I have found so far that seem to be made in the US are the STA tires. Which honestly I pretty surprised even are and I wouldn't doubt if they actually aren't for whatever reason. But, so far the only comment I've heard about them is not that favorable.

Here is an online review that seems favorable as much as that can be trusted:
http://simpletire.com/specialty-tire-of-america-sta-super-traxion-tire-reviews

At some point, I guess I'll just have to go with one option and take a chance on it one way or another.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 12:13 AM
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And thanks for grabbing the parts.

by MW

Forgot to mention that. Yes, Rick told me he forgot those parts and and was going to get them to you. I really appreciate you going back there to do that. Not sure what the custom motor mount would be needed for. But, definitely nice to have the spare mounting bar for sure.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 12:29 AM
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Coopers

by

Mike , I suppose Cooper could be buying some models of their tires from overseas , but they do still make tires over here . All the ones I have purchased have said 'made in the USA' on the sidewall . but then I have been buying a different tire than what you have been shopping for . In any event , I hope you find what you're looking for at a reasonable price . Bob Cruse

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 1:33 AM
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They don't actually even say Cooper on them anywhere I can see.

by MW

I think they might have possibly been an off-brand product for them that was made by some other company but sold through them. But, in any case, they apparently don't have them anymore anyway. So, that isn't an option now.

Here is what the ones on my truck currently look like:

[linked image]

[linked image]

[linked image]


Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:44 AM
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Made in the USA,

by Lee W.

You really have to look hard on the sidewall to determine where the tire is made. You'd think the manufacturers would be proud of their origins and announce it big bold letters.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 12:37 PM
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Maybe that is why my Courser tires don't say Cooper on them anywhere

by MW

But, I did recheck this morning to be sure and they both definitely say made in Taiwan on them, yes in pretty small print. Nowhere does it say Cooper on them that I can find. Maybe since they weren't made in the US, they didn't want Cooper put on them. And maybe that is partly why they don't sell them anymore.

But even Cooper apparently has a lot of international ownerships and connections, as would be expected for a large corporation like that. So, even still "Made In the USA" can't really just be assumed for almost anything these days.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooper_Tire


Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:11 PM
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EVER!!!!

by hris Piazza



Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:02 AM
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pre war bigger truck speedo

by

As some of you may know, I've been restoring a 1938 cab forward. It's been a slow but steady process. The slowest aspect was that of the restoration of the instrument cluster. Sent it out to a shop that was suggested by a friend. After 28 months of ignored phone calls and lies from this particular shop, I've decided to write it off as a loss and look for another cluster. This particular panel is the same as the 1937 Dictator with the exception being the speedo only goes to 80, and not 100 as it does for the car. Any help in locating such would be tremendously appreciated. I'm interested in a complete dash or just the speedometer. Thanks. Also, never, ever use United Speedometer of Riverside California. EVER!

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:01 AM
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Maybe a SoCal STT member can go get it back for you?

by MW

I'm up in the San Francisco area, but I do go down there occasionally. No plans to in the near future. But, if I do, I'd be glad to make a personal visit to them to see if I can at least get it back for you. Seems pretty ridiculous if they won't even return a call and send it back to you.

http://speedometershop.com/

Any chance something health-wise happened to the person running it and that is the reason?

Not necessarily and inspring find:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?s=ff91a96d67f010dd324bf943ad3641a6&t=431254&page=6

http://www.yellowpages.com/riverside-ca/mip/united-speedometer-services-460743206

oddly, they don't seem to have a yelp review at all, good or bad.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 11:28 AM
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Re: pre war bigger truck speedo

by Anonymous

I know nothing about this business, but they do seem to have moved a short distance from the old shop:

http://speedometershop.com/

http://www.speedometershop.com/40year.htm

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 7:52 PM
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Gages

by Jerry Kurtz

Chris; may be able to help you with gages. I have several sets of gages in used condition. Not sure if I have an eighty mph speedo head. Sheldon Rier, www.mitographics, of Ontario Canada has done the graphics and some usually show up at the asc auction. Malcolm Berry has someone who reproduces the speedo faces at a very reasonable price. There might even be a nos temp gage around here somewhere if I can find it. Jerry Kurtz 717 308 1800

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 1:26 PM
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2R6 and maybe other wiper systems ??

by jackb

At some point my 2R6 will get here from CA. I do know that the windshield wiper system is out of the truck and inoperable. Was the system a vacuum type in 1953 ? How available are they at the flea markets/forums, and was there an electrical upgrade or replacement available ? Truck is now 12V ....

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:46 AM
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Re: 2R6 and maybe other wiper systems ??

by Doc

Yes, the 53s were vacuum wipers. Since your truck is now 12 volt, the simplest fix is to purchase a Newport wiper motor kit that is specifically made for Studebakers. It is a direct bolt-in motor assembly, and comes with a switch and wiring that will mount where your vacuum wiper knob goes in the top of the dash. They generally sell for around $200+ for the kit, but no modifications other than connecting a power wire are needed. Mine has been running for 3 years so far with zero problems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-53-Studebaker-Pickup-Wiper-Motor-12-Volt-New-Port-/380859484933?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58acfe8b05&vxp=mtr

https://www.newportwipers.com/

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:49 AM
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Re: 2R6 and maybe other wiper systems ??

by jackb

thanks for the info...

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 2:03 PM
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Sun 6 volt tach

by mason

Sun tachs, what are called the 2 peice, have a small 1.3 volt battery in them that is hard to find. it can be eliminated, or the sender box can be eliminated, by sending your tach to Willamson vintage insturment service.
They can also restore the entire unit,including tach face. They also sell parts, like cups and brackets.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:07 AM
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tach

by vern

that is where I sent mine for over haul

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:55 AM
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Speedometer

by Jim Mackey

I had them repair my 3E11 speedometer, they did a great job.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:58 AM
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tach box battery

by

I have used a AA battery in my sun transmitter box for over three years now, still haven't changed the battery and it works great. No hard to find battery needed.

Posted on Mar 24, 2014, 9:56 PM
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1.3v vs 1.5 v

by Skip Lackie

I think the problem is that the tach no longer reads accurately if you use a 1.5 V battery.

Posted on Mar 27, 2014, 7:15 PM
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battery

by

Skip your absolutely right, I should have probably mentioned that. I had a screw you could turn to adjust it within the box and I used a timing light with a tach built it and set it correctly with that. I feel confident its right after correcting it.

Posted on Apr 2, 2014, 7:24 PM
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Studebaker Dealership Signs, would like too know if ?

by Joe

Any one here is knowledgeable on values of original Dealer Signs,would You please email Me at: jzeiger3@yahoo.com "Thank You."

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 11:46 PM
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Re: Studebaker Dealership Signs, would like too know if ?

by Jack Gasper

Gazillions of dollars! I have a friend who has a Texaco memorbilia collection. One of his large porcelain gas signs is worth thousands.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:47 PM
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Joe, It's worth what someone is willing to pay you for it. Size, type and condition.....

by Bo

are everything. Depending on the three, price can range from a couple hundred dollars to several thousand. Pictures would help?

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:35 PM
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Radiator help

by

Where to get a new M15a '47 radiator?

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 7:29 PM
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Re: Radiator help

by Ted

Don: do you have a radiator now? If so take it to a radiator shop and have it recored. Otherwise there is nothing new to be had.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 10:23 PM
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Not so fast....

by Bob W

Behold:

[linked image]

[linked image]

Aluminum M-Series radiator.

I noticed one of the places that makes custom radiators was located in Minneapolis. Well, their store-front was. Turns out they have everything made in Memphis or somewhere. I brought them my old radiator and they trucked it down to their manufacturing facility and duplicated it in aluminum with a modern 3-row core. Now the folly of this is that it cost $400-$450 (I have wiped the exact figure from my mind). I think, if I had it to do over again, I might find the least expensive side-tank model that kind of fit in the hole and saved a couple hundred. Of course it DOES look really cool. And it is really cool. No matter how hot it is, crawling around the fairgrounds at Back To The 50's on hot asphalt, when that fan kicks in, the temp goes straight down to 160. Note that it's mounted ahead of the support frame instead of behind it -- We needed a few more inches to squeeze the V8 in there. For a stock six it could be in the correct location.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 10:52 PM
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Alum radiator

by

I did just as Bob suggested. Bought one from Summitt, mounted within the bracket as he has shown in the picture, but I am using the engine fan (5 blade) and a "universal" shroud. Worked fine last summer. Way cheaper.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 12:14 PM
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Re: Not so fast....

by Ted

WOW! Bob that is great and is half the price of having the old one recored.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:51 PM
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Wow....

by Bob W

At first I thought you were mocking me -- that a re-core would be about half the price of a new radiator but there was no winky icon so I figured I better check the prices. You aren't kidding! Places are charging $600 to maybe $900 to recore a radiator! Again, I'd scour Jegs, Speedway, Summit, and the like for a side-tank that fits in the hole with. If you are running an auto trans like I am, you could even get one with a tranny cooler.

Bob

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 12:29 PM
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Thank you.

by



Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 4:15 AM
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Re: Radiator help

by JunkYardDog

I have a 49 radiator narrow top tank with extra wide brackets on it what it is is a M series radiator with different support brackets, if you have the original side support brackets I have a radiator that held water and doesn't look bad that would work if taken to a radiator shop and have the correct support brackets resoldered back on it.
My 49 has knee action shocks (the last year)and the frame supports are also different then my 52 all they did was put the newer sheet metal body on the M series for early 49.
I don't know how rich you are But I always see if the copper can be fixed before buying an aluminum one $$$$$.
These radiators are getting hard to come by but not impossible. If
you can afford to wait for spring swap meets it maybe worth your while to be patient.

Posted on Mar 26, 2014, 8:32 PM
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I also went with an

by

aluminum radiator but mine was off the shelf. Just had to make a pair of brackets. I also added a shroud and a flex fan. EVERTHING is cooler in the engine compartment...

http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/2013/07/cooling-upgrade.html

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 11:15 PM
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If you are not concerned with originality...

by Doc

I just bought a universal cross flow aluminum radiator that fit into the rad support from Summit Racing. It cools my Ford 302 no problem. I think it was around $200.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:55 AM
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Looking for Bo

by

I need to ask about repairs to my steering gear. You can email me at my email address above.

Roger List

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:25 PM
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Steering Gear Repair

by Bo

Drop me a note at bomarkham@embarqmail.com, or call me 352-528-3304. Tried to send you a note via your claw mail, but it didn't work?

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 5:11 PM
from IP address 71.49.9.255


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Progress

by R-Bucket

Just figured I would check in with you all. There was a little scare about me getting my truck back. The scare has passed it is again home. currently it is in parts and parts and parts.

Progress.

1. Tomorrow morning the prepped frame comes out of storage and onto strong horses to get the little parts placed on. the front axle is cleaned up primed and ready to go to the shop with the knuckles and have its new King Pins installed. He is well known for this work. I will also be taking the rear end to him after I remove the rear brakes. He is going ot open it count it check it clean it and we will install a new gasket and get it ready for paint.

2. Tomorrow morning all parts cab and such will be off the trailer and ill be looking at them for next stage. I must find the rims I want for it.

3. Friday the trailer goes for a tire repair and I stare at more parts. Ill finish the prep f the spring hangers for the rear end and hang those with new class 8 bolts and nuts.

3. Friday ill finish taking the front end off old frame and put the frame on the trailer for scrap. Sadly.

4. Saturday if I win the auction for the Scotsman ill be going to pick it up. Then it will be untrailered and placed in alley for storage. And that's my 3 day plan LOL

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 4:03 AM
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Derick glad to hear things are progressing

by Keith Mifflin

it's good to have a plan and even nicer to have achieved it! I'm sure glad to hear all the "kinks" have been worked out and you are back on track again.

Keith

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 9:07 AM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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Re: Derick glad to hear things are progressing

by Jim Mackey

Ditto

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:19 PM
from IP address 67.232.67.196


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63 champ on ebay

by vern

63 champ on ebay must not be sold by any body in the know,, he more than likely did not know it was even a studebaker until he looked at the tail gate. they call it a rare 3/4 ton, it is not, asking 12000, sold two weeks ago at Mechum auction for 5250.00

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:52 AM
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I saw this truck on a car dealer's site and posted it a couple weeks back

by MW

Must have just listed it this afternoon because it wasn't there earlier today.

It has a "rare 3 tool box bed", that is for sure. 1 of 1. Studebaker did some odd things on special request I've heard. But, I somehow really doubt that modification was one of them.

The other car dealer's listing now just says sold, but was listed for just under $10K. If I had known they would have taken close to $5K for it, I might have been a lot more interested. I spoke to them about the truck and the guy told me it ran pretty well and he even sent me some more photos of the truck and under it. He said it was rust free until I told him that would really be surprising and where he should really look for evidence of it. He then confirmed that is has had apparently had some floor patching done after closer inspection. Didn't look too terrible, but was all undercoated pretty heavily so was hard to know for sure without some more determined inspections.

It looks like whoever got it moved it from FL to IL now and gave a pretty good polish and shine job and it has cleaned up reasonably well. Not sure it cleaned up to the $13K level though. I kind of like the modification to the bed, at least visually. I like the work truck look. But one of my concerns was if the boxed areas in the bed pinched down the clear area between to less than 48" so that a full 4X8 sheet of material would no longer fit flat. Looks to be an inch or so inboard of the wheel wells so I curious as to if that is still at least 48" clear or not. Seems to me it would be a big mistake to have done that and made it less than 48" clear.

I like the look of the truck overall and it seem like it is in pretty decent shape, for a Champ anyway. But, I'm not sure how much of a draw those utility bed mods. will attract someone's attention at that level from an already pretty thin crowd of potential buyers.

I'll keep my eye on it. But, I'd be very surprised if it pulls that kind of price. If it does, I'm going to feel even better about the green 6E5 I just got.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:30 AM
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Looking for a speedpmeter

by Frank from Germany

I thought I would ask here before I buy some scrap.
Want to add a speedometer to my dash, something I can attach
without drilling too much holes.
Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks
and have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 12:46 PM
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Can't fix the one you have?

by

C cab speedos come onto ebay every now and again...

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 1:22 PM
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Talking about the thing that count the revs of the motor

by Frank from Germany

Thought this is called a speedometer and the one that shows how fast you're is a tachometer.
Am I wrong?

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 3:27 PM
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They've got them flip-flopped

by Lee W.

When you find a suitable TACHometer, let's know. I'm interested in putting one in my truck.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 3:30 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Revs is Tachometer in RPM and how fast you are going is Speedometer in MPH/KMH

by Eric L



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 3:52 PM
from IP address 173.55.191.134


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I bought one that

by

I thought would be great. It operated entirely from the signal from the coil and did not require 12 volt power. I still use it but it is a POS! It's needle can never rest on zero with the engine off. I have adjusted it many times to no avail. I sent it back once which took forever since they don't stock them and it is made overseas... My guess is that they made the tension springs very weak in an effort to make the D'Arsonval movement sensitive enough and that is why it drifts so easily.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 3:57 PM
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tach

by vern

I found one at a salvage yard from a GMC. it was a sun brand and old, 6 volt pos ground, with big black box sending unit, 4000 rpm. that is plenty for hot water 6, won't go much over 3200.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:17 PM
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Those are hard to find... Would love to have one.

by



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:42 PM
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6 volt, 6 cyl tachs

by Skip Lackie

John-
There's a guy who vends at Carlisle who sometimes has NOS Sun tachs and sending units. I found an NOS 6v, 6 cyl set a few years ago. And I've seen ads in Hemmings -- maybe by the same guy. Not cheap, but certainly age-appropriate for our trucks.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 2:21 PM
from IP address 76.100.243.102


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Speedster tach is what you need - maybe

by

On 6V V8 engines, the Studebaker Speedster tach, a Stewart-Warner synchronous drive motor, works off the distributor RPMs. The sender fits between the distributor body and the cap. It is huge, but actually worked pretty well.

I've never thought about putting one on a 6-cyl, but maybe it could work. It counts distributor RPM rather than firing pulses.

jack vines

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:58 PM
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speedster tach

by vern

tach drive from speedster won't fit 6 cyl dist, be real nice set up if they made one to fit 6 cyl, I have a speedster tach only, no drive, my Hawk has a tach with the dist drive between the cap and dist, my T bird has a cable drive off side of dist, If you could come up with rite ratio, might be able to convert back of generator and use cable drive like allis chalmers did on farm tractors, they used a delco gen with cable drive like early corvetts did.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:37 PM
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Tach

by

Frank

If you are not worried about authenticity then there are tons of aftermarket tachs available at auto parts stores. They can clamp to steering columns or maybe require two small holes up under the edge of the dash where they will not be visible. And they are cheap.

Try Rockauto.com



Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 7:40 AM
from IP address 67.253.46.44


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The problem with nearly

by

all the modern tachs is that they have to wide range. With these little sixes 4,000 max is best. If you get a tach that is 8,000 then you are only using half the scale... My problem with MPH is the 6 volt system...

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 9:00 AM
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Re: The problem with nearly

by

How about using an 6 to 12 volt inverter? I would assume generating a tach pulse would require mamps of current therefore a 2-3 watt positive ground inverter should work.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 11:13 PM
from IP address 70.134.229.44


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Made my choice I think

by Frank from Germany

I'll go with a tachometer from VDO, quality made in Germany happy.gif
That goes up to 6000rpm and got a warning light you can setup like you want.
So I've got the next question, what is the max rpm of a commander motor?
I know that you've got the max torque at 3200 rpm.

[linked image]

http://www.slspeed.de/VDO-Instrumente/VDO--ViewLine--Instrumente-weiss-chrom/VDO--View-Line--Chrom-weiss-Drehzahlmesser-6-000U-min--52mm.html

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:55 PM
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Confusing horsepower and torque

by

Frank, the Commander may make max horsepower at 3200, but max torque is developed at around 1800 RPMs.

jack vines

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 2:19 PM
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As far as I know, no one

by

has made a chart that shows the probability of the engine blowing up vs rpm vs time. The horsepower of the Champion engine is specified at 4,000 RPM but how long can it run at that RPM before blowing up? The Commander engine is a bigger engine but that does not mean that it can rev higher. RPM is mostly limited by the stroke length, valve float, and lubrication system. I would not recommend reving the Commander higher than 3,200 RPM and cruise at 2,500 RPM. Just my two cents.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 2:55 PM
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2500 I agree

by vern

I run mine at about 2200 at 65

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:06 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Looks nice

by Lee W.

Should fill the bill. Where does it pick up the signal?

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:03 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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tach

by vern

can't read info, wrong language,

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:03 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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The 4,000 RPM model would be enough.

by

I'd never turn a Commander higher than 4,000 anyway.

jack vines

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:16 PM
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You likely would never get a Commander up to 4K rpm

by MW

At least not without risking some major damage. I don't have a tach on my 2R11, but my gut feeling is anything over starting about 3K rpm and you are already pushing it with a Commander motor. There isn't as whole lot of rpm range, relatively speaking, on my truck from idle to wanting to shift. I already grenaded one Commander motor pushing the rpms on it too much and too long. I'm not sure what the rpms were specifically, but I know it when I hear and feel it at this point. Cranking a Commander motor high and long is a sure recipe for disaster. I'd be surprised if Commander motors can handle 4K rpm for very long or often and definitely not both. Again, I don't have a tach in my truck, so I don't know for sure, but that's my gut feeling. I just know not to push it anymore whatever it is and drive it by feel. You can definitely feel when the motor is passed the comfortable range. It isn't like a nice smooth modern V8 when you don't know until it's done and too late. The Commander just doesn't feel nice and smooth for a bit before it looses it. I think it is the longer stroke and the inherent inline 6 harmonics that is the limitation and what can be sensed well before it finally does itself in.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:25 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Sorry thats in German

by Frank from Germany

it takes the signal from the coil....
Vern, just let me know what you want to know

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:51 PM
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tach size

by vern

Frank, what is the diameter of the tach?

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 7:54 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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It's 52 mm

by Frank from Germany

Or 2.047244094 inches diameter and 65 mm, 2.559055118 deep.
You want one?

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 2:00 AM
from IP address 92.72.66.59


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tach

by vern

will it work on 6 volt?

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 11:09 AM
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Not this one

by Frank from Germany

they've listed them for 12 and 24 V but I can ask them for a 6V if you want.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 1:50 PM
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Sun 6v tack link

by

I bought a sun electro tach NOS off ebay a few years ago with the sending unit/control box. Was new in box never opened. It is a 4500rpm range and works great. Paid a little over 170 for it and it matches the time period of the truck nice. They come up on ebay every so often, keep your eyes open.

This tach is very similar to mine but the gauge is different, same control box I think.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUN-TACH-MODEL-2245-42-5DTA-FORD-FLATHEAD-SCTA-SALT-FLATS-CUSTOM-RAT-HOTROD-/251475101574?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8d158786&vxp=mtr

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 3:38 PM
from IP address 167.206.233.254


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Does that work on 6 volt pos ground?

by



Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:04 PM
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Re: Does that work on 6 volt pos ground?

by Frank from Germany

Asked the seller today
No 6 Volt version but you can use it on + ground.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 4:10 PM
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Another 6 volt Tach

by

Here's the tach on my M16. Works off the distributor pulses only. Power is only for interior lighting. I have no idea how old this unit is, or where my dad got it from. It was on the truck already when I started restoring it. This picture was taken on US36 in northern Missouri last summer on the trip from Illinois to Colorado. Note that the RPMs is about 3200 and the speed in the corner of the TomTom GPS shows 57 MPH!

Roger List



[linked image]

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:21 PM
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Wow! That is really screaming.

by Lee W.

I know that it is like comparing "apples to oranges" , but my '09 Dodge truck turns about 1500 RPM at 60-65 MPH.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 12:49 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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had to be down hill with the wind

by vern



Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 5:53 PM
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More Wind

by

Nope! We were bucking a 30-40 MPH headwind almost the whole distance. Granted, it took a bit of time to get there, but once we got to 55 MPH it was hard to hold it below 60. We did see almost 65 a few times, but I was afraid we might leave some parts along the road if we held it there too long.

Roger List

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 7:22 PM
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leaving parts

by vern

is ok if they are not from the truck you are driving, come to kansas on a windy day, you could get close to 70 mph with wind, motor shut off

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 8:26 PM
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how?

by

Roger! I can't get my M16 above 35! How are you doing this?

Posted on Mar 22, 2014, 9:31 PM
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2 speed rear end stuck in low???

by



Posted on Mar 23, 2014, 6:07 PM
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Tach with revised link

by

So the seller said it wasn't 6-volt? I thought the part number was the same but I actually looked it up now and it wasn't . Looks just like the box and tach I have for a 6v positive ground.

Here is the link to the exact sun box I have, still need you own sun gauge though which isn't too hard to find. The box has a single AA battery in it to power the gauge, mine has lasted for three years now. Hopefully the old battery in the box isn't too corroded.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUN-TRANSMITTER-MODEL-EB-2-6-VOLT-6-CYLINDERS-TO-BE-USED-WITH-YOUR-TACH-/281290255989?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417e34ae75&vxp=mtr

Posted on Mar 24, 2014, 9:54 PM
from IP address 167.206.233.254


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Window channel tab

by Jim Sengl

I am sure that this has been discussed before but my search didn't bring up much. What is the best way to fix the broken tab that the top of the window channel screws to behind the vent window on a c cab. Guess I know now why Dad always said "don't slam the door!"

Jim

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 12:21 PM
from IP address 184.4.154.147


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Re: Window channel tab

by

I just replace my window channels and couldn't remember how the channel gets attached to the door frame. I used a very short plastic push pin which I pushed through the channel and hole in door frame. This is near where the channel meets the vent window. I am thinking of removing the plastic pin which doesn't seem to be holding that great and replacing it with some kind of short screw. I this the same area you are asking about?

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 10:54 PM
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Bench Seat

by

I have a 1951 2R Truck
I am looking for a stock bench seat for it
I'm in Northern California, thanks

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:10 AM
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You might check this out

by Lee W.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4380040313.html

This truck belongs to one of our group and is located in Penryn. I know he is wanting to sell the whole truck, but you never know, he may be willing to part it out. I think I see a seat frame and cushion in the pics.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:41 AM
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Bench Seat

by

thanks Lee I will check it out

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 12:19 PM
from IP address 173.11.117.169


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Truck in Penryn

by

Hi Mike, I still have the truck and I'd be willing to part with the seat, call me 916-616-0111 or email. Thanks

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:54 AM
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'37 Bus

by Phil Rogers

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/4378228819.html

Looks to be in very sad shape!

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 11:40 PM
from IP address 98.237.174.194


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Neat looking bus about an hour north of me

by Keith Mifflin

but I fear that he may have let it sit too long. With that much moss and crud that is growing on it, in this climate most of the time means lots of rust growing too.
Keith


Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:28 AM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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Trucks at online auction (Frank D- Scotsman alert!!)

by 6E40

Its in Idaho. Trucks a bit rough but range from a late M-Series bus to a 1962 E-40 Cab and chassis. A 1959 Scotsman is in the mix as well. Posted on SDC Forum as well (thats where I got the link from).

https://musickauction.hibid.com/cata...iew=0&selCat=0

Doug



Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 9:23 PM
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Thanks, Doug, for the...

by Frank Drumheller

high sign. Got it for the Register. Thank you so much. I spent some this PM looking at many of the vehicles (especially the K15 bus), but somehow, I missed the Scotsman. Sharp eyes!! Frank

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 11:38 PM
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Link for the Scotsman

by Lee W.

Long bed, V-8, sheetmetal doesn't look too terribly bad in pictures. Probably the best looking Studebaker of the lot that I saw.
Current high bidder is "motorheadjeff ". Is that someone we know.happy.gif. I've got a gut feeling that a lot of the vehicles being auctioned are going to wind up being scrapped.

http://musickauction.auctionflex.com/showlot.ap?co=58482&weid=41608&weiid=14740838&archive=n&lso=lotnumasc&pagenum=3?=En

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 2:52 PM
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Must be for race only since it has

by

those hood hold down clamps.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 3:06 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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K15 bus must be the M seies bus?, correct!.

by Jeff S.



Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:56 AM
from IP address 71.252.184.84


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No, Jeff, this is not...

by Frannk Drumheller

an M series model. From the photo, it appears to be a J series of 1937. It is either a J15 or J20 short wheelbase. My guess is a J15- considered a 1 1/2 ton nominal weight class. The J20 is in the 2 ton category.

Frank

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 8:18 AM
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Why are you doing this to me?

by Zane

I want that 1962 E40! Does that look like a 195" wheelbase to you guys and gals? It is within a days drive of me. My wife would kill me though. There is enough room on the back of it for the casket though....

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 1:52 AM
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Re: Why are you doing this to me?

by Anonymous

That one and the Scotsman caught my eye. There is a chance I think that the E40 would have the 5 speed O/D and from what I could tell the sheetmetal didnt look bad. The Scotsman intrigues me for some reason. Also, the T-cab outside the building looks savable. Steve

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:47 AM
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Zane, looks as a....

by Frank Drumheller

195 incher! Would suspect it is a 5X2 as it appears to have been quite a hauler for its size. I also believe it has it's eye on you Zane. The wife will get over it!! She's been through this too many times to 'throw the baby out with the wash'!! Frank

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 2:25 PM
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E-40

by 6E40

I too think it is a 195" truck. Not too sure about the 5x2 part though. I don't see a cable attached to the shift lever in the cab. Top of lever isn't visible so don't know if there is a DP switch either. Could easily have been parted out however. My own E-40-195 started life as a single speed rear end unit (7.2:1 ratio) and it is a 23,000 lb GVW unit.

Doug

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:51 PM
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5spd/OD?

by MW

Judging by the shift diagram plate on the dash, I'm guessing it is the 5spd/OD. I don't think the 4spd or 5spd non-OD got that did they? Maybe the 5 spd non-OD did.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:03 PM
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A Champ too

by MW

Only at $85 at the moment. Probably rusted out cab as is typical, but it has the correct front fender trim pieces I could although one is bit beat up. Also it seems to have the right type of rear work bumper I could use too. And has door mirrors I need too! Zane, maybe a combo deal and another road trip on Sat., LOL? happy.gif

http://musickauction.auctionflex.com/showlot.ap?co=58482&weid=41608&weiid=14749303&archive=n&lso=lotnumasc&pagenum=3?=En

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 8:24 PM
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LOOK at the Scotsman again

by Mark Thompson

It has the heater removed ,but! is has a radio!

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 4:05 PM
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That scotsman

by R-Bucket

Is calling my name. Not sure why

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 7:45 PM
from IP address 173.202.213.7


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Go get it, R-bucket...

by Frank Drumheller

For what is being bid on these vehicles, this could be a prize for you.

Model code- 4E1-122-C1
4....code for the 1959 model year,
E....series of Studebaker trucks built for model years 1955-1964,
1....indicates the sub-classification- a Scotsman model with the Champion 170 cubic inch, flathead, side valve, six cylinder engine in the nominal 1/2 ton class,
122..the length of the chassis measured from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle, in this case 122 inches- the size for an 8 foot pickup box (a 'long wheelbase pickup'),
C....code for 'cab', and
1....code for a basic cab, ie. Scotsman.

Serial number- E1-2922
E....same as above,
1....same as above, and
2922.the sequential order in which this 4E1 came off the assembly line in 1959 between serial number E1-1101 and E1-3893.

Someone replaced the original 6 cylinder with an older Studebaker V8 engine. I cannot id the engine from the photo.

Appears to be an acceptable 'project truck'. Would like to see you pick this up for a small investment. Surely, it would be worth outbidding the scrap dealers who want to send it to China.

Good luck to anyone who has the right numbers for this one. Frank

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:58 PM
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Scotsman oddities

by 6E40

Funny thing about that truck, the listed serial number seems to indicate it is an E-1 yet it has a V-8 engine which should indicate an E-2 serial number (if the engine is original to the truck).

Doug

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:02 PM
from IP address 76.68.13.116


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3 days of auction

by 6

If you go here:https://musickauction.hibid.com/auctions/current
and go down to the March 20th auction, you will find some R-series pickups as well. Check out Day 1 (Item 63) and Day 3 as well.

Doug

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:42 PM
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Gee, a lot of ...

by Frank Drumheller

$6 cars/trucks or pieces thereof are headed for China! Some will be Studebakers. Gee....

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:19 PM
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Scrappers

by MW

The scrappers will bid them up to some degree within reason to make some decent profit or they might have a scrapper on the sideline that has agreed to give them a certain price per ton to make sure everything is sold and gone one way or another and not at complete give away prices.

But yes, one way or another, a fair amount of this stuff is likely headed for some metal recycling. Even more of a chance it will be the Studebakers as we know than the Brand X stuff.

I'm into Champs lately, so would be sad to know those 2 get sent to the crusher. They both look fairly decent. The red one under in the shed even has a short P1 bed which if is in good shape, I'd love to have that itself. Wish I could get there and had the space to store them. Not many of them out there to begin with, and even less so every month.

If anyone wants to go in on the Champs and has a way to go get them on Sat. as required, I'd be up for contributing towards that. Looks like between the 2, more than enough good parts on them if nothing else. They might get bid up some the day of the auction, but I'm guessing they won't be much above scrap value if even that.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:31 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Scotsman engine

by Steve Dotson

At the same auction so I would chance that this is the engine from the Scotsman. https://musickauction.hibid.com/lot/14725615/flat-head-6-cyl-engine-and-transmission---only?tab=0&display=50&cpage=2

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:09 PM
from IP address 108.237.81.91


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flat head

by vern

from the looks of the coil, I would say it came from an M16, has the shielded type coil wire, also looks like T9 which was never used in scotsman

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:23 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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flat head again

by vern

it also has govenor and piping for two speed vacumn hook up

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:26 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Re: flat head again

by Steve Dotson

Missed that. I doubt the Scotsman would have had a governor or 2 speed so it must be from something else. Steve

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:36 PM
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T-cab stuff cheap

by Steve Dotson

If anyone is nearby there is a T-cab grill and fender on day 1 that is cheap (and may be worth it) and the p-1 bed on the white truck on day 2 doesnt look bad in the pics. Fenders even look workable. 2200 miles one way or there is lots of stuff there I would bid on. Steve

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:14 PM
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R series rear bumper (#136) and front bumper (#137)

by Jeff S.

both appear straight. #137 '53 cab might be early production for 1954, as the grill isn't a '54, but the one piece windshield is 1954 or later. Sure, the front might be an old repair replacement, but it makes me wonder, with parts being combined as they are here. Frustrating not to be able to go to that auction, AaaaaHhhhhhh!!!!!. Jeff

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:22 AM
from IP address 71.252.184.84


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Didn't see the white one with the P1 bed at first.

by MW

But, you are right, that bed does look pretty good. Nice looking tailgate too and factory rear bumper looks potentially nice as well. That front clip doesn't look ll the bad either and I could definitely use those fender trim strips.

Man, that is 3 pretty decent looking Champs and a bunch of nice parts if nothing else probably headed to the scrappers all in 1 shot. Not to mention all of the other Studebakers. Almost wish I hadn't even know about this. Anybody possibly going there to grab some of this? I'd buy whole trucks at those prices just to get a couple of the parts. Except there is no way for me to go get them and deal with whole trucks like that.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:45 AM
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No one noticed the M series BUS, 03-21, #360

by Jeff S.

Advertised as a 1978 (I wish) Studebaker. Looks like it was a homebuilt camper. Anyone know of a 1940s M bus still in one piece?. O.K. move all the Studebaker vehicles to another field please!. There has to be at least a dozen or so. I'd hope local SDC members would be in the know of this auction, and would save what they can. Jeff S.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:17 AM
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I have am M series bus that I would let go

by

It supposedly has a rebuilt engine that is more than likely stuck now. I would let it go for scrap price. Feel free to email me if you are interested.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 2:23 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


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Another M series bus

by

My brother-in-law has an M Series bus back in IL that looks to be in almost the same shape as that one. It's slowly settling into the mud.

Roger List

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:21 PM
from IP address 50.170.219.0


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Interesting front wheels on the M series BUS.

by Jeff S.

How odd are the wheels, might they be originals?.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:52 AM
from IP address 71.252.184.84


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scotman V8

by vern

the V 8 in the scotsman is a 232 from 51 to 54, fuel pump on top.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 12:59 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Stupid me

by R-Bucket

Wife will hate me if I win. Question I have is please tell me the Scotsman is the green one. Current high bidder but I wonder if im bidng against some one here.

https://musickauction.auctionflex.com/showlot.ap?co=58482&weid=41608&weiid=14740838&archive=n&lso=lotnumasc&pagenum=3&action=?=En


that is the one im bidding on. We shall see if I can save it from the scrappers. but man. Where will I put it. And .... Im watching the other two "parts" ones. I might be making two trips over there. Ugh im insane. Whats the max I should even consider bidding for when im out bid?

and why in the heck is the tow truck one up to 300 !

Derick

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:47 AM
from IP address 173.202.213.7


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wow

by

I just realized, I have the 6 cyl sitting in my back house for this Scotsman. Got it from Kieth !might up my bid now only 75 miles to get it LOL

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:49 AM
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well

by R-Bucket

im out bid at moment. don't think ill go up either. just hope its not a scrapper but its probably above scrap at total of 350

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:05 PM
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Re: well

by Steve Dotson

Wish I could get a bunch of this stuff back to SC. Steve

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 1:46 PM
from IP address 12.202.74.87


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Good luck with the bidding tomorrow, Hope you save it.

by Jeff S.

Sure looks straight, and would be a good parts donor. I hope the other studes worth saving received good bids and avoided the "other fate". Jeff S.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 10:43 PM
from IP address 71.252.184.84


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Stude Under Winterland

by

[linked image]

[linked image]

[linked image]

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 10:51 AM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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CQQQQQQQQQQQQQQL!

by Bill Fowler/Solo Speed Shop



Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 12:29 PM
from IP address 23.240.167.249


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just sleet for us so far here in newport news, VA!!

by george o

Stay warm

take care

George o

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 5:12 PM
from IP address 70.104.200.119


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We have about 4.5 inches...

by Frank Drumheller

of the prettiest, fluffiest snow I've seen here at Lake of the Woods. Everything is covered-even the inside of the chain links in the wife's trellis.

Send us some SUNSHINE!!! Frank

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 6:00 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


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Snow

by Rod Byrd

John does the SPCST know about this?

...........Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Studebaker Trucks................

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 9:43 PM
from IP address 75.105.196.255


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I know some think

by

that leaving MPH out in the cold is mean but he just gets tougher.

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 9:53 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Snow

by Rod Byrd

Just keep the John Barlycorn in the radiator................

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 10:30 PM
from IP address 75.105.196.255


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Well, with a name like "Mister Potato Head"....

by Lee W.

....I imagine he needs some help.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 2:25 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Just "cool"! :-)

by Brian Dahk



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 8:45 AM
from IP address 208.0.9.200


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Cold !

by Fred

Was in D.C. yesterday. Saw it, back in Fl today.

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:18 AM
from IP address 24.233.167.201


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King Pin Modification

by

I made a modification to solve the problem I had where the caps on the ends of the king pins would not hold grease. When I pumped the grease in it would squirt out several places. CAUTION!! If welding on a spindle scares you do not look at the pictures!! I MIG welded 1/2" long sections of a pipe coupling and used a brass plug to seal the end. I welded at a slow rate doing 1/2 at a time and let cool. I left the king pin in the bores to check for any warping. No warping. The brass plug can easily be removed to replace and ream the bushings.

Pipe section welded on the passenger side spindle, top end
[linked image]

With brass plug
[linked image]

While I was at it I replaced and reamed the bushings:
[linked image]

I bought the reamer from McMaster-Carr (2987A36: $64.58, 3004A19: $38.21) This reamer is adjustable from 7/8" to 1" with extension for centering:
[linked image]

2-1" pipe coupling 46685K266, $4.57 each

4-1" pipe brass plug 50785K332, $12.35 each


Now I have 4" of snow to shovel...

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 9:27 AM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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mods

by

As always very nice work.

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 2:50 PM
from IP address 50.123.246.8


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king pins

by vern

you have got way to much time on your hands

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 7:56 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Re: king pins

by mason

King pin removal, fast! Shoot them out with a Hilti nail gun. The piston will drive the retainers and kingpins out in no time at all. I removed them on both sides in about 5 minutes.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:28 AM
from IP address 75.34.195.28


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John just a bit of a warning

by Keith Mifflin

when doing this upgrade you were welding on castings. Welding castings usually takes preheat and controlled cooling to keep the casting from cracking. It is also normally done with Bronze Silicone tig rod or ox-acetylene brazing rod. I'm not saying that they will crack but it is somewhat likely they will. Most likely if they do crack it will be at the weld you put on and not through the main casting but I would watch them. This kind of cracking can happen right after the weld cools or anytime in the future.

Maybe I misread your note but I make and assumption that using your mig you used regular welding wire and that you did not preheat or control cool.

Keith

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:21 AM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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Keith, that was also one of my

by

concerns. What I did was to only weld a little bit at a time so that there was very little heating. I used standard flux core wire. If this was made from case iron then I would have not done this but this is malleable steel. As I mentioned, I kept the king pin in the bore to check for any warping and there was none. If there was any warping when hot or cold then I would not trust the spindle. Definitely would never do this with an Acetylene torch as that would require heating the spindle. I figured that the stress imposed by the welding was not much different than the pounding with a punch to install the covers...



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:42 AM
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Actualy welding cold may exacerbate cracking

by Keith MIfflin

I've welded a lot of cast and it can be very trying. When you think it could/should crack it doesn't and when you feel you nailed all the variables it cracks. I'd just watch the area of weld to the casting, that is where a crack will appear if it is going to not down the casting. Cold cast welding like you did is the most likely to crack, the weld edge is most likely where the crack will be -- sorry

Good news it won't impact the structural integrity of the casting just the part you welded on and if that were to come off well!!

Keith

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:00 AM
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Maybe could have epoxied it on instead.

by MW

That would likely have avoided the potential issue. Plus even a welder wannabe like myself could possibly have attempted that without disastrous results. I'm not sure the cups on my old truck even leak to begin with though. I've never noticed.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 3:00 AM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Forging vs Casting

by

I believe the front axle is a forging and not a casting. Welding forged steel is a piece of cake compared to welding a casting. If the axle and spindle were a casting they would easily crack in normal use. My guess for the grease leaking out under pressure is cause by a rusted or overly tight fitting pin & bore. I too have never seen the cups leak. MW's suggestion is a good one. My last kingpin replacement required some effort to remove the old pin because of rust. Before replacing the pin I couldn't get any grease to go in. Once the pin was out I took 400 paper with oil and lightly cleaned the bores until they were uniformly shiny. The new pins went in smoothly when hammering with a brass drift pin.

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 10:39 PM
from IP address 70.134.229.44


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They welded like budder and so far

by

no cracks...

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 12:30 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Tried epoxy but

by

the pressures are to great when greasing, they just pop out...

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 12:27 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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John as always you amaze me, Good Work

by Jim Beadle



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 9:30 AM
from IP address 184.6.21.68


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1959 Scotsman on Ebay

by Beth Marler

Hi Frank,

Do not know if you have this Scotsman in your registry. This is on Ebay a the moment.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-Scotsman-4E3-1959-Studebaker-Scotsman-4E3-/251473788700?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3a8d017f1c&item=251473788700&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Information on the placard is as follows:

Serial number E3-1010
4E3-112

Gentleman states it is a barn find. It has a bow tie engine and tranny.

Beth

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 5:45 PM
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Think this one has made the "circuit" before.

by Lee W.

Pretty loose interpretation of "barn find" in my opinion.

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 1:24 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Thanks, Beth, but...

by Frank Drumheller

I had included this truck in the Registry last week. I have to agree with Lee W. The seller is pretty 'loose' with his loquacious comments, ie "...do ur research", etc. when he calls this truck a "deluxe" model and lists the engine as a "4.0L 246 in. I6" in the data block, but a "sbc 327 V8" in his description. Perhaps a little more research on his part would make better reading.

It's missing it's hood ornamentation- the S and two dashes, -S-. I wonder if Studebaker International has this item in their inventory?

It's a Scotsman in appearance only. Anyway, it's still in existence!! He also posted on the SDC Forum that his truck is for sale. I do hope it finds a good home. Frank

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 5:53 PM
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Ck This Out Glad They Don't Have Studebakers

by Bill Fowler/Solo Speed Shop

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=620_1341213161




Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 5:14 PM
from IP address 108.185.130.211


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Re: Ck This Out Glad They Don't Have Studebakers

by JeffR

Send 'em more cars!!!!!!!!


Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 8:06 PM
from IP address 72.10.80.146


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Saudi Sliders

by Rod Byrd

You don't have to send them any cars.
They are already here.
Take a ride on your Interstate or Freeway, and pray................

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 11:22 PM
from IP address 75.105.196.255


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And they're just trying to find out

by Brian Dahl

how fast they can kill themselves?

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 8:23 AM
from IP address 50.146.73.26


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There doing a good job!

by Mark Thompson

I was amazed to see so many people watching on the side of the road and not moving out of the way when a car out of control is headed right at them! Many cars had to be doing over 80!

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 10:20 AM
from IP address 50.123.246.8


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Mark, where do people,...

by Frank Drumheller

born and raised in the wide-open desert, who's only action were camels and donkeys, would go to see something interesting- the closest hiway! And those on the hiways, with no speed limits or traffic cops, are crazy drivers who've grown up in a culture not understanding the machine. They're dealing with "new toys" and no experience how to handle them and what they can do to the human body.

I lived in the Middle East in the '60s and saw many examples of this type behavior. As an American, all you could do is shake your head and wonder!! Frank

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 2:41 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


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I believe I can fly............

by Frank from Germany

.

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 4:11 PM
from IP address 80.149.83.98


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On the autobahn ?

by Brian Dahl



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 8:44 AM
from IP address 208.0.9.200


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Re: Ck This Out Glad They Don't Have Studebakers

by GS


Inshallah must be heard a lot during those events.



Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:26 AM
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What is transmission paint color

by Mark Thompson

I have an 3E6 with T98A transmission. my transmission paint color looks lie it was painted a medium blue like ford blue.

I also bought and extra T98A that cam out of a 3E V-8 powered truck. that transmission is the same medium blue mine is.

Where these Transmissions painted Turquoise like the engines or the paint turned dark, or were they not painted and were Painted by there previous owners?

will go out an take pictures and post tonight.

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 2:40 PM
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I'm certainly no expert...

by Don s.

But, I believe the m15A, which I own, had a transmission with the same color as the engine.
Both of with I'm painting soon....Bell Telephone green.

I would suppose your tranny should be painted the same as you're engine color.

IMO

Don
[linked image]

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 6:21 PM
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picture

by Mark Thompson

here is my transmission bell housing cleaned, partly. and temperairly mounted to newly painted eng with correct turquoise paint from Studebaker international.


[linked image]

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 9:45 PM
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Looks like the blue used in' '55

by Bish

Perhaps these were originally in an earlier truck? Rebuilders often used a similar blue as well. About anything can happen after all these years.
Bish

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 7:52 AM
from IP address 174.62.190.226


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blue in 55

by Mark Thompson

Thanks Bish, I didn't know Studebaker used blue in 55. Thought it was still that dark Green.

In my 3E6 my engine is Factory original. Numbers match what is listed on my Build sheet. But the was signs the transmission was changed.

Any 57 Stude truck owners got a picture of the transmission painted in the original turquoise?

Posted on Mar 19, 2014, 11:33 AM
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Re: What is transmission paint color

by mason

Both blues are correct for 1955. My engine, trans, bellhousing and trans were all the same color, the light blue.
The dark blue is similar to Cadillacs.

Posted on Mar 20, 2014, 9:14 AM
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newport hill climb, overdrive, Coker tire sale

by mason

I read that Phil Harris wrote about the Newport Hill Climb. It is a "One of a kind " event! I have been attending, racing, or doing some volunteer work for 31 years. Some of the best times in my life have been associated with it. A friend that could have taken the overall record says this is the second best car event in all the world.
I probably have raced more different types of vehicles there than anyone: 5 Studebakers, a Stutz, 5 Auburns , a Packard, and several Fords. The fastest was a Ford. The right Hudson is the one to race for a stock vehicle... Keep in mind they only allow modified cars at the event are supposed to be in the modified Model T class, and the rules are somewhat sketchy...I'm trying to work on that...
Do keep in mind that this is all in fun. To be competetive it requires a large commitment. I raced my E5 last year and it was running very poorly. It had just been put together, and I was under the weather. A good friend raced his Cord, so we now have had a Cord race there. He was one of the driving forces in the Duesenberg drag race we had at the Auburn Cord Duesnberg National meet 3 years ago.
As to overdrive, the transmission you want to use, {unless you are working the truck hard}, is a later car Warner T86 OD. It has a helical 1st gear, a different ratio for 1st {2.6 instead of 3.6}.
Use this trans for regular street use. Wire the solenoid direct to a switch mounted on the shifter so you can shift it right now, in OD or out, and you are ready to go.
The closer 1st gear, and being helical, makes shifting much faster because of less rpm drop,etc. I can take off easily in 1st gear OD with 26" tires. You do have to shift out of overdrive to use reverse.
Compression ratio makes a giant difference on performance too. I used a '59 head shaved .090 on my R15 and was 6.5 seconds faster on the Newport hill.
Coker tire has a sale on Exclsior bias looking radial tires. I wish the looked more like bias than they do. They do not have many left. The markdown is about 40 to 70%, so act now.
I'm considering speeding up the steering on my E5. I'll do this by modifing the arm on the steering box. If you shorten the arms on the spindles you get alot of squeal... On Studebaker cars it is easy to relocate the hole in the steering arm, on the truck it will have to be sectioned.
It has been nice reading thru the posts on this forum, Thanks Guys, MM





Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 10:16 AM
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Down to bare frame..... now what?

by Eric L

So, do I look for a sandblaster first and primer or do I perform the MII conversion?

[linked image]

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 3:49 AM
from IP address 173.55.191.134


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Steering Column

by

Hi Eric,

Well done. I suggest two things. The first would be to secure your steering column with some sort of temporary jig. Those Ross units have already led a hard life and one unfortunate Murphy moment can really ruin your day. The second would be to take an hour with a cup of coffee, a friend and a notebook. Just walk around it and make notes about "while I'm in here, I really ought to...". The frame will never be this accessible again. here's hoping it's on the road again real soon. jh

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 9:15 AM
from IP address 74.226.101.51


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I would suggest that you get your frame

by Keith Mifflin

cleaned in what ever fashion you choose before installing the new Mustang II front end, no sense getting the new front end parts messed up by the cleaning process.

When I had to decide what to do with my frame I decided to not spend the money on sandblasting and just used a small grinder with a good wire wheel and also a needle gun from harbor freight, I had it clean in a few hours then went over the whole thing with a cleaner degreaser and followed that with Krud Buster's rust converter per instructions on the container. After ensuring there was no rust left I then used Eastwood's rust Encapsulator over the entire frame and after that dried I used a gloss black enamel.

If I were putting in a new front end I'd do all the cleaning work and Krud Buster (or some other rust converter) then install the front end and follow-up with the final finishes.
Keith

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 11:06 AM
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frame

by Jeff Jones (the Tucson one)

Do the cleaning first. I followed the exact same process as Keith, with the exception of using KBS products. It still looks good after 10 years and almost 40k miles. I prefer KBS to Eastwood, but they are both good products.

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 11:44 AM
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Nothing like working with a clean frame

by Lee W.

Plus everything is so accessible with the body off. Do as much work as you can now from above.

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 4:41 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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Thanks so much for the advice guys.... greatly appreciated!

by Eric L



Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 12:45 AM
from IP address 173.55.191.134


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us6 chassis

by Keith

Anyone interested in a 1944 studebaker us6 6x6 chassis, this includes complete engine trans and gearboxes!

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 1:43 AM
from IP address 76.104.236.77


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us6

by Mark Thompson

yes, but i need a few years to save money for it! just barley getting by now. but always wanted a us 6. I would get a 46 M15 c-9 cab and put on it.

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 3:39 AM
from IP address 50.123.246.8


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M16 Window Parts

by

I'm looking for a painted right door window divider channel for my 42 M16. It must be from a 42 M series. The 45 M15 was also painted but the door must have been quite a different shape as the parts book shows a different part no. It's possible that a 45 may work with some modification, I just don't know enough about the differences. Anyone out there have one of these? Thanks.

Roger List

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 12:06 AM
from IP address 50.170.219.0


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Re: M16 Window Parts

by DwainG

Check your book again. I think you might have been on the wrong line. I'm seeing one part number for all models, 649318X2.

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 7:44 PM
from IP address 24.16.178.89


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Window Channel

by

That is the correct part no. for a painted right side divider channel. It does look like the lift channel is different between the standard M series and the 45 M15, but the divider channels are the same. Anyone have one of these? Thanks.

Roger List

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 10:03 PM
from IP address 50.170.219.0


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Youtube: Manual Transmission Operation Video

by MW

Just came across this and found it interesting and thought I'd share.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOo3TLgL0kM

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 9:44 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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This was great. Thanks

by Bob Godwin



Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 10:04 AM
from IP address 108.22.234.203


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Do you think this was a marine set-up?

by Lee W.

Looks kind of neat. Some kind of weird rear mount.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4375778321.html

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 7:02 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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Air Filters

by

Look like those on my buddy's '41 Chris-Craft barrel back and that rear mount looks pretty marine, too.

Anybody ever seen a marine set-up for a champ 6? I was kicking around the idea of building a replica woody and thought it would be fun to put Studebaker power into it, but on-line search didn't yield much result in making a marine conversion to a Stude engine...

Regards-HW

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 7:18 PM
from IP address 162.202.20.38


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champ marine

by

I have a champ 6 marine intake

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 12:36 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Here ya go...

by


http://www.network54.com/Forum/23885/message/1328840745/Studie+Marine+conversion

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 7:44 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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dash panel

by Steve Dotson

A bit off topic but I have a nice dash panel ala 53 Champion with a tach instead of a speedo. It should go on a boat with a Stude engine somewhere. Steve

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 8:12 PM
from IP address 108.237.81.91


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Definitely a marine conversion on a 232"

by

The fuel pump on the oil filler indicates an early 232" V8, so the engine core itself wouldn't be the attraction. Figure the rocker covers, intake and carbs and the distributor are worth $500 if a lot of elbow grease were applied to clean them up for eBay.

As to the Champion marine conversions - Stokes Marine regularly bought Studebaker, Packard and Hudson surplus engines and converted them to marine use. As long as it was in a very light, narrow beam runabout, the Champion could give a good account of itself.

jack vines

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 8:16 PM
from IP address 67.161.98.171


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Thanks to Ronnie Corban, I have a running motor!

by

I've been trying to get my '47 M15a engine "un -stuck". After tearing the engine down.....bent crankshaft.....:/

Thanks to Ronnie Corban, he offered to sell me a running engine!
I picked it up south of Nashville last weekend. It's home in its new town, Saginaw, MI!

Today, I got it fired up on the workbench! Yes!

Had to change the bell housing, it must of had a three speed trans. My transmission bold are much larger(4 speed).

It gives the project a whole new feel!
Thanks again Ronnie! Truck talk is a great place!

Don

[linked image]

[linked image]


Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 1:43 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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Love seeing this kind of determination...!

by Eric L



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:07 PM
from IP address 173.55.191.134


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Thanks!

by

I'm not giving up...it WiLL be drien!

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:13 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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*driven

by Don



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 4:18 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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Nice dyno

by Lee W.

How did it sound without a muffler ?

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:29 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Nice....rumble!

by Dons.



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:52 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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Re: Thanks to Ronnie Corban, I have a running motor!

by Steve Dotson

Sounds like you are making good progress. If you didnt, make sure you dial indicate the new bell to the engine. That seems to be a Stude specific requirement for the most part and often overlooked. Steve

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:32 PM
from IP address 12.202.74.87


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Not sure what you mean...?

by Don s.



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:53 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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Don, the bell housing

by

should be aligned with the crankshaft. This is normally done when a new bell housing is mated to an engine for the first time. One removes the locating pins and loosely bolts the bell housing on the engine/back plate. A dial indicator is used to center the transmission shaft hole in the bell housing with the crankshaft. When aligned tighten the bolts and drill the locating pin holes in the bell housing, reinstall the pins and your done. This makes that specific bell housing properly mated to that specific engine. This becomes important when the engine main bearing journals has been align bored which can in some cases move the crankshaft slightly. With a used bell housing you just bolt it to the engine and with a dial indicator, check the alignment. If is OK then your done. If not then it may be necessary to weld fill in the locating holes and re-drill as if the bell housing was new. I don't know off hand what the tolerances are but someone here should know...

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 7:38 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Thanks John!

by Don s.



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 7:42 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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You literally meant the "Bench"!!

by



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:43 PM
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Yup!

by Don s.



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:53 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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*Corbin

by Don S.



Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 3:11 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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Fenders & Carburetor

by Lee W.

Scored a couple of fenders yesterday. They're not perfect, but they are absolutely rust-free.
And I hope the carb looks as good on the inside as it does outside.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 12:44 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Nice!

by Don s.

Especially the carb!

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 1:26 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


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Always nice to

by

see such a clean carb. Looks like he uses a tumbler.

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:41 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Wow on all accounts Lee

by Keith MIfflin

I wish my front fenders were in that shape nice score and the carb looks like a show piece are you sure you want to stick it on a dirty engine?
Keith

Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 10:48 AM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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WOW, Lee W, you hit....

by Frank Drumheller

a homerun with those fenders. They're becoming as gold! Yes the carb is really nice, but there seems to be more carbs lying around than rust free fenders from 60 years ago. Way to score, Man!! Frank

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 8:49 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


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retrofit

by

hi. has anyone retrofitted the master cylinder and pedal for a 49 2r5 pickup? what master cylinder kit worker that had pedal connected. hope u can be of help. pls email your response.... thanks

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 9:32 AM
from IP address 204.8.64.89


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Re: retrofit

by

You need to be more specific. Are you looking for the suspended type with the master cylinder mounted on the firewall or one that doesn't have a connecting rod between the pedal and the cylinder?

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 10:51 AM
from IP address 70.134.229.44


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Why retrofit? New are available at NAPA for cheap

by

Last year I bought a new Wagner M/C at NAPA; was something like $35.

jack vines

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 11:39 AM
from IP address 67.161.98.171


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Glove Box Lock

by

Looking for a glove box lock for a '46 Champion dash. This lock fits into a "D" hole with the flat on the right side. If I was to guess the lock is held on the cover with a spring clip. I cut my own keys so a key is not necessary.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:16 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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lock

by vern

lock held in with small pot metal cover on back and small screw.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 10:48 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Pictures

by


[linked image]

[linked image]

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 8:12 AM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Drill

by

The hardest part, if you want to retrofit, is finding the "D" shaped drill bit! wink.gif

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 11:38 AM
from IP address 207.109.140.1


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Re: Glove Box Lock

by

Finding an exact lock might be like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Look on Ebay you might be able to adapt one from another vehicle.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=car%20glove%20box%20lock&clk_rvr_id=602775672915&adpos=1t3&MT_ID=70&crlp=25256490499_2416792&device=c&geo_id=10232&keyword=car+glove+box+lock&crdt=0

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 10:14 AM
from IP address 70.134.229.44


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This looks close

by

but it does not seem to have the "D" flat. Description is for the wrong year...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Studebaker-Chrome-Glove-Box-Lock-With-Original-Hurd-Keys-1951-1952-/301010557529?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4615a09a59&vxp=mtr

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 10:27 AM
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Maybe this one?

by


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Studebaker-Glove-Box-Lock-With-Keys-1949-1950-49-50/350940193492?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222008%26algo%3DSIC.MOTORS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20466%26meid%3D5504009559970791519%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D9138%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301010557529&rt=nc

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 10:29 AM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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this one is for 50 51 52 car

by vern



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 11:16 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Yale lock p/n 276898

by

Those glove box doors used a Yale lock. The housing, cylinder, and key were part 276898, used in all 1941 cars, 1942 and 1946 Champions. It's shown in the 1936-46 Body Parts Catalog.

There was a guy who came to York and Reedsville named Jim, came from out near Somerset, PA, had a big Studebaker junkyard. He died a few years ago, though his wife continued to come to Reedsville for a few years. Someone here will remember his last name, maybe know the family. Anyway, he always had a huge box of NOS lock assemblies. I wonder what became of that stuff?

Here's what the lock looks like:

[linked image]


Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 10:43 AM
from IP address 71.232.213.98


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that is the one you need John

by vern



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 11:19 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Thanks! I don't

by

have car manuals just the truck ones...

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 11:58 AM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Lock and key source

by

John's post reminded me of the ad below purloined from the North Puget Sound Chapter, March 2014 newsletter:



Locks for old cars. We have thousands of original blanks, thousands of old car cylinders, mostly NOS. We
have 100s of locking door handles. We can cut to code, match keys to locks, locks to keys. We can make keys from
code or scratch. CONTACT: Jarvis, PO Box 2245, Lynnwood, WA. 98036. Ph: 425-776-2804. email:
modeltbug@aol.com.

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 12:30 PM
from IP address 174.21.58.126


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Re: Lock and key source

by Lee W.

Thanks for the info. Do you know of anyone who has used them?

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 12:48 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Haven't use him but I should just go visit him.

by David Orth



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 6:54 PM
from IP address 174.21.58.126


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glove box lock

by

John,
I think I have one that's in a 41 President glove box door that I would part with.Let me look when I get home. That's the same car that I got the cluster bezel from, I also have a set of wings I haven't decided if I am going to use yet.
Dick

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 1:12 PM
from IP address 174.16.133.185


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Looking for distributor

by

Champion engine, 1948, M15A truck, part number 518458. Restorable, good bearings.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 8:36 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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FoundOnRoadDead

by Lee W.

Came upon this fellow on my way to Sacramento, so I decided to render some assistance. He had everything under control, just waiting for the tow truck. I told him he should drive a Studebaker, they never leave you stranded wink.gif.

He's got more nerve than me, driving on the interstate, the big rigs do 65 in the slow lane.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 7:22 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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Pretty nice looking car.

by MW

Even though it is still just a Ford. happy.gif

His biggest nerve is just sitting there on the side of the road. I think I would be out of the car and over on the other side of that fence. Yes, people do drive fast on that road and I wouldn't trust any of them to stay in their lane and not rear end me out of the blue. Not a lot of rear impact protection in that thing, front or side either.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 8:23 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Re: Pretty nice looking car.

by

You are looking at a 1931 Model A Ford sport coupe. Yes, I agree it's not wise to ride this type of vehicle on an interstate. I own and drive a 31 deluxe coupe but only go on an interstate when there is no other way like crossing a river. In past 6 years since I put it on the road I have driven 10K miles with 99% of it on secondary back roads. You can cruise 50-55mph all day but not with the wackos going by at 75 blowing their horns and cutting in rapidly. At least we have a little more protection with our trucks. I don't have OD in my Studebaker but I feel a lot more secure driving at 55 that in my Model A on a busy highway.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 10:07 PM
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I still try to stay off interstate

by Randy Wilkin

My modified truck will cruise at 75 ,but I still try to stay off interstate. I once was in right hand lane cruising at 70 , Had a dump truck loaded with gravel pass me in left lane. Rocks were flying off everywhere , damaged my paint, my windshield , and pride. When we went to Southbend, I planned it ,so I would only be on 2 lane highways.

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 9:06 AM
from IP address 71.72.228.252


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Good advice

by Lee W.

What the authorities recommend is that you stand to the rear of the vehicle and as far off the roadway as possible. All it would take is a split second of distraction for a driver to drift out of the lane on to the shoulder.

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 12:53 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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then U have not met Jim t

by Peter

from Culdesac, Idaho he drives his 1925 Studebaker on Interstates all over USA says top speed is 47mpg hour but safe speed is 45 mph in slow lane, and he told me the big trucks try to blow him off the road but weight of old car keeps him driving.
Peter

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 12:03 PM
from IP address 174.1.233.61


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Value of an "A"?

by

So I was in Mesa, AZ, a couple of months ago, and saw a '29 Model A roadster pickup, looked every bit as nice as the car here. I think it could be bought for under $12,000. Is it worth that?

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 12:56 PM
from IP address 173.210.219.69


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Doesn't sound bad to me...

by Lee W.

...probably best to talk to some Ford people. But I'd say that $12k doesn't sound like an unreasonable price, judging from the cost of nice paint jobs, body work, etc. that I've encountered myself.

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 2:48 PM
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absolutely

by ChrisM5



Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 11:58 AM
from IP address 108.209.204.34


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depends

by GS


If it's a recent restoration,stock engine, clear title,and drivable. 9.5 would be about right. TOPS

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 10:12 AM
from IP address 68.99.93.205


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Carburetor is done!

by Lee W.

Less than 24 hours after I dropped it off, I received a call this morning that my carb is ready to be picked up.
Cost:$162.00

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 12:24 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Whoa, that guy doesn't mess around.

by MW

Hard to believe you get that kind of service on anything like that these days. That guy is a keeper. If I need any work on the Champ carb., I'm definitely going to be taking it to him. Hopefully he will be staying in business for a while longer. Those kind of guys are few and far between these days. Plus, that is a totally awesome looking setup he has there.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 12:56 PM
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Re: Carburetor is done!

by

Can you tell us who this guy is and where is his shop? Did he do a complete rebuild or a partial like cleaning and replacing the accelerator pump piston? Of course the real test will be to see how well it works and if you notice a difference.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 9:06 PM
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I woul'd guess for what Lee paid (although not bad at all)

by Keith Ifflin

it would have been a complete rebuild of the carb not just re-gasketing and jetting it. If I remember correctly Gaskets are around $35 or so including the jet float and seat. I'll need to remember this guy so when mine is running I can send the carb down to him.. I'm sure after 30+ years sitting it may need a tweak happy.gif

Keith

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 11:11 PM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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He'll be FLOODED with carburetor work!.

by Jeff S.



Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 12:00 AM
from IP address 71.252.184.84


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Re: He'll be FLOODED with carburetor work!.

by Zane

I got it! That is funny! happy.gif

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 12:02 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


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So you better JET over there before he gets too busy!

by Bish

happy.gif

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:04 PM
from IP address 174.62.190.226


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Would be nice to see a list of

by

things that were done. If I were to guess, based on this was in a rural area (lower cost of living) the following:

1. Complete disassembly (excluding throttle and choke shafts).
2. Complete cleaning.
3. All new gaskets, new accelerator pump piston, float valve.
4. Assembly.
5. Adjust to specifications.

I would consider the above the minimum what is done to bring a carb back to good working order in addition to replacing any parts that need replacing.

Another item that is fairly important especially with these old carbs is the throttle shaft bushings. Not to much effort to replace/install new bushings. Most carbs do not have replaceable bushing so there is a bushing that can be installed with a reamer. I now replace the bushings every time I rebuild a carb:

http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/2012_05_01_archive.html

When I did my WE I decided to Nickle plate many of the parts and use neoprene gaskets:

http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/2013/11/carter-we-nickel-plating.html



Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:42 AM
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I'll be picking the carb up today

by Lee W.

Along with a couple of truck fenders. happy.gif

When I queried Bryan about repairs, he told me they routinely repair the throttle shaft bushings (as required).

If all they did was disassemble and clean out the carb, then I would've just done the job myself at home.

I'll be sure to give you guys some feedback, good or bad.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 11:33 AM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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Carb restoration

by Doug

Does he do complete restorations with plating and anodizing of parts?
Thank you
Doug

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 5:11 PM
from IP address 174.239.108.161


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I get "butterflies" thinking about this...

by



Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:17 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Im getting all choked up

by Mike Kullman



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 1:17 PM
from IP address 67.188.52.81


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...and the pseudonyms just keep coming..... they're great!

by Eric L



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 3:21 PM
from IP address 173.55.191.134


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you know there's more "floating" around

by



Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 9:53 AM
from IP address 209.179.11.228


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Ok, time to "throttle" this thing back......

by Jim Sinclair

...sorry Lee, I couldn't resist happy.gif Hope the carb works as good as it looks!

Posted on Mar 17, 2014, 6:06 PM
from IP address 174.60.227.110


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It's ok..

by Lee W.

...we may learn some "new" words if it doesn't work. wink.gif

Posted on Mar 18, 2014, 11:47 AM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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Stude on the autobahn

by Frank from Germany

Just want to let you know..........
Because of big traffic I decided to go on the autobahn with my truck for just 3 miles.
With a little more of 3/4 way down of the gas pedal my truck was faster then the big trucks.
They drive around 90 kph, so I was maybe around 95 kph, 60 mph.
Not bad without OD.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 9:31 AM
from IP address 92.72.69.144


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burn that pavement up!!

by



Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 10:39 AM
from IP address 209.179.11.228


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Now that Frank has 411.1 rear end....

by Brian Dahl

he's just trying to show off! happy.gif
Brian

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 3:16 PM
from IP address 24.125.142.129


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Re:Stude on the autobahn

by

Way to go Frank! Keep on truckin'.



Register your 2R truck at http://www.2rtruck.need-a-geek.com/ It's free!
Register your M truck at http://mtrucks.need-a-geek.com/ It's free!

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 7:20 PM
from IP address 74.47.110.131


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autobahn

by vern

overdrive would run 75. keep up with hi speed traffic

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 7:41 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Vern, believe me, 75 would come no where near

by Brian Dahl

high speed traffic on the autobahn! You can be driving 120 MPH, and when you get passed by EVERYTHING on the road, you have to open the door, step out to see if you've stopped! happy.gif
Brian

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 6:51 AM
from IP address 168.244.11.2


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good news is Brian

by vern

both you and Franks rear ends work good

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 6:33 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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But......

by Frank from Germany

Talking about different rear ends happy.gif

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 11:14 PM
from IP address 88.77.74.62


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Yes, Frank's is in Germany! :-)

by Brian Dahl



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 7:57 AM
from IP address 24.125.142.129


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Glad to hear that you rear end

by

is doing great!! happy.gif

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 9:49 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Re: Stude on the autobahn

by Ted

Sounds like you are finally having fun.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 10:17 PM
from IP address 24.191.29.197


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60 M.P.H.

by JunkYardDog

My truck will go 60 M.P.H. But its screaming so I rarely ever go over 45 and I have O.D. ingaged

Posted on Mar 21, 2014, 2:01 PM
from IP address 24.113.86.31


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Off on another adventure!

by Zane

I will keep you guys posted, but I am headed North with an empty trailer.....

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 1:41 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


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Oh Oh Zane, here we go again! :-)

by Brian Dahl

Let us know of your adventure! happy.gif
Brian

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 6:29 AM
from IP address 50.146.92.91


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Have fun in the Emerald City.

by Lee W.

Hope you hit a patch of dry weather. happy.gif

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 12:17 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


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I hope so too!

by MW

happy.gif

Good luck Zane. Feel free to share some photos if you can.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 2:54 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Re: Off on another adventure!

by Lee W.

Not mine.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 5:13 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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Loaded up, heading south.

by MW

Looking great guys. Thank you both!!

Zane is on the right, Bob Cruse is on the left strapping it down safely. I owe these 2 excellent guys some big favors for helping me both look into AND actually get this truck. The truck was up in the Seattle area. Zane is going to trailer it back down to his place in OR and take a look at the brakes for me and few other things to get it back in solid driving shape. It has basically been sitting well cared for in a garage for a long time after it was restored and not used much. So, it just needs a good going through to get it back into reliable driving condition. The brakes lost the fluid for some reason or another and probably a good idea to replace other aged soft parts, hoses, etc. Zane very graciously offered to help me with that. After that, we'll get it down here to me in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Again, Bob and Zane, thank you very much for all of your help!! Looking good, hope the trip back down goes well and safely!

And thanks also to Rick, the seller, for selling me the truck of course. He is the one who did, and had done by a very nice shop, all the work on the truck. He has owned it for a very long time and obviously put a lot of time, work and money into the truck and did a great job with it. So, it is a bit of a sad parting for him as well I'm sure. But, I promise to give it a good home and put it to good use.

happy.gif

[linked image]

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 7:59 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Wow!, very nice!!

by



Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 9:16 PM
from IP address 71.114.6.234


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Re: Loaded up, heading south.

by Ted

Mike it looks like you did real good!

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 10:16 PM
from IP address 24.191.29.197


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Wow

by Frank from Germany

a new reason for me to come to SF and make another guided SF sight seeing tour with you Michael and your new toy.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 1:06 AM
from IP address 80.149.83.98


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Now all you have to do is

by Keith Mifflin

talk Zane into buying one of your other trucks and coming down to get it. He could just drop off your tuck while he is there happy.gif Oh and you would have more room too!

Oh and what a very nice truck your persistence paid off.

Keith

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:39 AM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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Brilliant minds think alike!

by MW

happy.gif We have already discussed that a bit and wheels are turning as they say. We'll see how that goes. But, yes, it could be a win/win all around and a nice way to shuffle the deck a little and keep stuff within the STT group.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:52 AM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Michael, CONGRADULATIONS on your find....

by Brian Dahl

Know Zane will get it in tip top shape for you!
Brian

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 3:56 AM
from IP address 24.125.142.129


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Possible P1 bed

by 62champ

I know MW wanted a Champ with a P1 bed - would bet this one is probably for sale. Is in a picture on line from a person who posts on the Studebaker forum all the time who is named canbstudebaker http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/member.php?3544-candbstudebakers

[linked image]

If anything, you could probably sell the P2 bed and dump all the money into the P1 and get out the other end in pretty good shape... Good luck finding those front fender chrome strips for that 5E - one year only stuff and the oldest Champs out there - but they are somewhere. Looks very nice - real truck color as well wink.gif

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 8:54 AM
from IP address 68.238.201.236


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Thanks for the tip on the bed.

by MW

I'll wait to get the truck first and see how the wide bed grows on me. First thing I'm going to do it put some more vintage truck type tires on it and see how that makes it look over all. There are a some nice looking wide bed Champs out there, so maybe if I just dial a few details like that in, it will grow on me. But, I might contact that guy if I can just to see and keep my eyes out for a nice P1 bed still anyway.

Honestly, I hadn't even caught that those fender strips were the Lark ones and not the Champ version. It makes sense because he told me he used some bright metal stuff off a Lark and I did see the obvious stuff but didn't catch that. But, it looks good and nice and straight, so I can live with that, at least until some good Champ ones might present themselves at some point. He has boxes of parts that came with the truck, so he might even have the original ones in there, not sure. Assuming the original truck had those and he didn't just use the whole Lark fenders trim and all and never had the Champ trim to begin with. Finding parts Champs is a lot easier than finding good ones as we know. So, I'll keep my eye out for some of those as well.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:47 AM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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C and B Studebakers

by Lee W.

Pretty ironic, they're located down the road from you Mike, in Hayward. I've been in there a couple of times to look at truck stuff. Bob makes the trip to the International meet every year with a trailer load of stuff, so if anyone has a specific request contact Bob.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 11:55 AM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


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Ah, you are right!

by MW

I thought that name was familiar, but couldn't recall. Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't put that together myself.

I actually went down there a few years back and talked with that guy about some other truck related stuff he was selling at the time. He was having to clear out his storage lot and was selling things off. Seemed like a nice enough guy, but he didn't seem to be into selling things on the lower end of the spectrum for the condition they were in.

I might be into it as long as it is a really nice one. Seems like it could possibly be in pretty decent shape. I don't want to get into getting something that needs a lot of work, and an asking price on the higher end to begin with. But, it is close and easy to transport already being a trailer! So, maybe I'll give him a ring and ask him about it.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 2:16 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Out of business?

by MW

Not a promising sign: http://www.yelp.com/biz/c-and-b-studebakers-hayward

That number no longer works. Maybe still around, but just not in official business anymore and there some other way to reach him?

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 2:19 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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re: Out of Business

by Al Freese

Go to the SDC Forum and find him there. He posts something almost daily under CandBStudebaker.

I also have his cell number but don't want to post without his permission.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 2:35 PM
from IP address 75.146.133.206


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I don't frequent the SDC site.

by MW

Looks like you need a membership there to sign on. I'll give it a try when I get a chance. Thanks for the info. Bob Peterson is the guy's name if I recall now.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 4:41 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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Membership not required

by Skip Lackie

You do not need to be an SDC member, but you do need to register with your real name, screen name, and city of residence.

Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 4:50 PM
from IP address 98.231.201.114


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Thanks. I'm am a member of the club, but not registered on the site.

by MW



Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 6:26 PM
from IP address 50.148.147.67


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rear axle housing, backing plate shims on M5

by Phil

I'm assembling my M5 after 10+ years post dismemberment and I've forgotten a few things. What is the order of parts (shims, backing plate, grease retainer, thick shim, etc.) on the end of the rear axle housing. Is the purpose to keep the drums from rubbing on the backing plates? Any help much apreciated.

Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 11:09 PM
from IP address 67.183.185.144


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order

by vern

backing plate, shims, thick shim or shim plate, grease seal, I put shims only on rite side axle for ajustment when I assemble.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 12:23 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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Glad I asked

by Phil

So the backing plate mounts directly onto the axle housing? Thanks for the help.

Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 10:46 AM
from IP address 75.147.187.101


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Vern are M's different from the 2R & 4E?

by Keith MIfflin

The manual for a 2R and a 4E state that the shims go against the reared housing then the baking plate then the felt seal. Are the M's different or did I just read you order backwards?

Keith

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 9:29 AM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


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R M same set up

by vern

I think I told you wrong, memory slipping. shims between back plate and housing. than thick plate, then seal, to adjust, I use the thick plate to do adjusting, after adjusted with the shims, then put back plate on and plate and seal

Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 8:43 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


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