A forum for any messages related to Studebaker Trucks
Rear end On Scotsman
by R-Bucket (Derick)
Well we tore the rear end out of the Scotsman that is donating parts to its owners truck. It is a Dana 44 no doubt. The Tag is missing. We have determined it has a TT rear end. But we are still not sure on the gear ratio.
here are the numbers off of the inside.
23209 x 1 26 66 B
We did count the teeth on the gear it has 46 teeth. didn't get the small one counted though.
We are still not sure about the
From what I have searched out Im not sure. But if I divide 46 by 11 I get 4.18181818. if I divide it by 13 I get 3.54 so im still lost. Im sure they didn't put 3.54 in a truck and im sure this isn't out of a car .
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 11:47 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
but I'm not so convinced that it would be better. Yes it has a very high boiling temperature but it also conducts heat poorly. If you have some overheating problems because of lower capacity cooling due to no airflow at idle or to small a radiator then I would think overheating would be worse. They do claim better cooling compared to regular water/antifreeze local boiling within the block. Not sure Studes have that problem. What I found best is to keep the antifreeze concentration as low as you can but enough to withstand freezing and maintain water pump lubrication. Now that I have fixed all my cooling issues I might try it...
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 11:59 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Interesting, I was looking at some websites just yesterday regarding this. Had come up from working on the GT Hawk for a few minutes, and Wheeler Dealers were doing a Triumph TR6 so I had to watch that
Anyway, Edd used the Evans waterless coolant in the TR6. One thing that really impressed me was when he removed the radiator cap with the engine up to temperature (HOT), and no coolant spewed out.
Want to look at this closer, and get the MSDS sheet to see what it's made out of. If anyone that frequents this forum has used this, we need a real-life report.
Posted on Jan 2, 2014, 8:22 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I believe it is Propylene Glycol (PG) which can be labeled as non-toxic coolant. About 15 years ago, I had some liner corrosion issues on some industrial engines I looked after. We were using conventional Ethylene Glycol coolant. The wet liners were corroding due to cavitation. I visited with the coolant product champion at DOW and got educated on the different coolants. I considered swapping to PG which had higher resistance to cavitation but we finally located the source of our problems. Turns out we had a bad 8 psi radiator cap on a surge tank that all the engines shared. That cheap part was the cause of hundreds of thousands of dollars of engine repair costs.
Anyway, PG does have a higher boiling point and conducts heat less efficiently that a mixture of EG & water. You might see a little increase in the operating temp. To some extent, the problem self corrects itself since a higher operating temp enhances the heat transfer at the radiator since there is a larger temperature differential or driving force across the radiator fins.
Posted on Jan 2, 2014, 2:27 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
The PG product which I use in my closed loop solar system has a boiling point of 230 degrees and says it is not recommended for internal combustion engines. I'm not sure how much that boiling point would change under pressure, though. My loop runs at about 35-40 pounds. It does, however, contain anti-corrosion protection.
Brand name is Cryo-Tech 100 by Hercules Chemical company.
Posted on Jan 6, 2014, 9:26 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
My literature on glycol coolants states to not use automotive coolants in industrial engines or vice versa. The inhibitor packages are tailored to the types of metal in the engines that the corrosion additives protect. In the case of automotive engines there are more inhibitors for the higher aluminum content used in new engines, whereas industrial engines are almost all steel.
My DOW chemical handbook lists the boiling point of 100% Ethylene Glycol at atmospheric pressure is something like 385 deg F. 100% Propylene boils at around 370 deg (I am reading off a graph).
A 7 psi radiator cap will raise the boiling point of the PG system to about 400 deg.
PG has more heat capacity than EG but PG also has higher viscosity which reduces its ability to transfer heat across the tubes because PG will build a bigger boundary layer film on the tube.
Posted on Jan 6, 2014, 7:43 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Water mixed with anything is a poorer conductor of heat than plain water, that includes any of the 'coolants'. Remember the last "Wonder Coolant" that came out about a decade or so ago and offered by a Name Brand manufacturer? It was Red and suppose to be [same as the claim with this new stuff] "lifetime". Well, the Red garbage [that also cost more] caused a hell of a lot of problems. I was one of the victims after putting it in a 454 LS-6 engine. Now I'm like the cat that sat on a hot stove. I will not even sit on a cold one. Don't do it until at least 5 years have passed and no one has serious complaints. You have very little to gain and a heck of a lot to lose.
Posted on Jan 7, 2014, 11:01 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I am new to this form although I been watching it for a while. Evans coolant is used in a number of big rigs and is starting to take off within the trucking industry. It runs hotter and a good number of owner/operators swear by it
Posted on Jan 8, 2014, 10:18 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
After I recover from this shoulder surgery I'll start on the steps and under support structure repair as well as a few other places where rust has eaten away at the corners of the cab, valance at inner top of windshield in cab and the drivers side front door pillar. For now I can set the doors up on the bench and mess with them without too much strain on the shoulder.
Vern sent me a piece of sheet metal taken out of the cab side I guess you flip it over and can make a new corner for use on the cab corner but at this point I still am having a bit of a problem imagining how it will work. Vern also sent me parts to repair the valance and door posts - what a Life saver and great contributor to this site and most all of us!! Can't wait for the next installment of his humor!!
Jack looks like the corner fit well and good job on the floor sill installs and thanks for the photos, what a bugger eh!
John thanks for reposting the pictures! Right at fist I thought boy I didn't know that John had done all that work to his truck (I remember when you sere just buying the welder). Then the note about forwarding the pictures for Jack. I think we all owe you a thanks for all the picture work you do for us. Hope all goes well with your oil seal and when does that next journey start?
Posted on Jan 2, 2014, 12:45 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
words. I have had my fingers crossed for quite a while now on the seal. Since I put that seal reconditioner in the oil it has nearly stopped leaking and no clutch chatter.
My next journey will be down to Ashland for our annual meetup sometime in April. Then the Sulley Car Show in May. Then Dover in July for the SDC international meet. Somewhere in there I need to go out to our place in OR to put down some hardwood flooring.
Then there is the big trip in a couple of years that I'm only half serious about: VA to OR in MPH, scary thought...
Posted on Jan 2, 2014, 11:28 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Thinking of buying some parts from Classic Enterprises
First let me say that I have bought the 2 steps and supporting structures from Classic and they look great for form and function.
Now the 2 questions Ok 3:
1. I am thinking of buying Classic's lower door skin, door bottom and front fender 3" rear patch. Has anyone used the door bottom before and if so how did it install I just can't tell from the picture.
2. Does anyone have any experience on the other parts I'm looking at and if so what can you tell me about them and the install.
3. Does anyone have a drivers and passenger side set of bad doors with good bottom sections, say the lower 10" or so -- not likely but hey if you don't ask then you never know.
Thanks in advance!
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 7:21 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I used Classic Enterprises patch pieces and found them to fit perfect. I used the step & support, both lower door patches, and cab corners on both sides. This was the first time I had ever done any fitting up of patches or had any welding experience. All I can say is if these patch pieces were not made well I don't think I would have had as good of an out come. I hope the images show how well they fit. I started out by locating each piece as best as I could and then started tacking. Once they appeared to be in place I started tacking in more and more places. Then I connected the tacks with short continuous welds but never in one concentrated area. I did this to keep the distortion to a minimum.
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 8:39 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Re: Thinking of buying some parts from Classic Enterprises
Keith, I had good luck with them. Everything fit as well as can be expected. Here is a link to my restoration pictures on Photobucket. You will have to go in about 5-6 pages or so. 700+ pictures. I did the door myself and then had a bodyman do the rest.
HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone..
i have a straight 6 champion engine that i would like to talk to with someone about rebuilding please, also the colum shift linkage needs help and would like to get safer/easier highway speeds as well..
i am in elsegundo california .
can anyone direct me to the "RIGHT" person please????
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 5:25 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Is your champion motor FOR your 58? Have you considered going up to a Commander motor?
I own a 57 TRANSTAR 3E14 (1 ton w/9' bed). Prior to me acquiring the truck, someone had placed a Champion motor, and T9 (non-synchro) transmission in it. The truck was original with Commander and T98A Syncro. 4 speed trans. (I have a 5.19 rear end). I shipped my truck to Ted, in New York, to have it brought to original. Ted, at that time had five Commander motors for me to choose from. I chose a 1960, and Ted did a complete rebuild on it! At just over 3000 miles currently on the motor, it runs like new!
Not sure of your model or transmission, but if considering a rebuild, a Commander might be considered.
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 9:07 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I may be a little far from you but I have rebuily many Studebaker engines and I drive Studebakers everyday. I am located in Oregon but occasionally make trips down your way. If you are interested you can email me at the blue link above.
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 12:44 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Can you give us some specifics about your truck? Model number, powertrain arrangement would be a help in making a decision. The three engines that Studebaker used in their trucks are all inherently good engines. Downside to the Champ is that it will cost about as much to rebuild as a Commander, but it's output is lacking. I have a Champ six in my '55 truck. Does it stop me from driving all over town and on the freeway? No. Is it a freeway cruiser? Hardly. Do I wish I had more power? Yes. When the day comes, will I rebuild it? Probably not. I'll look to re-power with a Commander or a V-8.
I have dealt with Carl and Herman Thoms at Studebakers West. They know their stuff. Maybe they know someone in SoCal that can help you.
there are plenty qualified people out there to help you out. Ted was the one who did my work, and one I can personally vouch for. Positive those others mention would be able to give you great advice also. You asked for the "right person" to talk to? As you can see, there are many. Would recommend you provide more information on your truck as mentioned above. Good luck as you go forward!
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 6:28 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
If your not an Studebaker Drivers Club member, you might think about joining your local chapter. Besides the excellent help you'll get
from the folks on this forum. Someone in the local chapter may be able to give you the info you need.
Posted on Jan 2, 2014, 8:30 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I was real happy with the machining work done at Toby's Machine Shop in Santa Barbara. I did the rebuild myself. They would have reassembled if I wanted them to. I took that on though and it came out great.
Posted on Jan 2, 2014, 1:11 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
well I used the search function about the bed size and have my answer. My bed will fit and the re end will fit. The tires will be pushed out into the fender wells a little bit and some one said they think it actually looks better.
Now a dana 44 search lol
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 10:13 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The axle ration in a Scotsman with a Champion engine is likely to be 4.89 or 4.55, depending on what the original owner ordered. Is there a small tag under one of the cover bolts? It would give you the ratio.
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 4:50 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Sorry. The 58 Scotsman only came with the Champion 6, so I assumed that was what it had. The V8 did not become available in the Scotsman until the 1959 4E series. Since the engine has been replaced, it's likely that the rear axle has, too.
Posted on Jan 4, 2014, 8:49 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
you've got a lot of talent in your hands! I've seen a lot of M series since getting into the hobby in 1973 that could have benefitted their grilles. It seems M trucks had a propensity of bumping their noses into objects that didn't move.
Good work, Don. You're an inspiration. Frank
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 9:05 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
This my 52 short bed that came down through the family. Money has been a real issue to get it back on the road. The original motor/trans is gone so I bought a LS1 off a friend to put in it a few years ago. Want to lift the body and set it on and S10 frame they say it's an easy set up for lowering and motor/trans to set right in. Any comment from what all you guys, that did a change over. I'm going to try and load some pictures hopefully they show up. Well have pictures in the Photobucket albums, but don't know how to display them?
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 11:15 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
personally. i believe the s10 frame is WAY too narrow for a stude. it can be done, but looks funky to me. i'm currently putting mine on a 82 c10 frame. the track width is way better, but i picked up a long bed frame cheap, so i have to shorten the wheelbase. chassis swaps are more of a pain than they are worth, honstly. what are you planning to do with the truck?
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 11:23 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Possible, yes. Easy, not so much. Maybe, look at one first
Yes, it's been done several times successfully.
No, not always. Within the past two years I have been offered three project trucks where the overly-optimistic but unfortunately under-financed/under-talented/under-motivated owner lifted off the body, tried to set it on an S10/Dakota/Jeep frame and was overcome by the unforeseen problems.
Maybe, if I were attempting such a conversion for the first time, I'd go to wherever there was a completed swap truck, spend a day with the person who built it. (BTW, there is more than one owner who actually had a shop build the truck, but isn't admitting that or what it cost.) And take a whole memory chip full of photos and a notebook full of notes.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 12:56 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
and the wonderful Studebaker folks I have met. . Each one is special in their own way, and to name a few:
Frank Drumheller - Yes, Frank would have to go to the top of everyone's list! The "Godfather" of the Studebaker Truck Farmers! I have had the distinct pleasure of meeting Frank at many different events during the year. His knowledge of Studebakers, and the Studebaker history is unsurpassed! If Frank don't have the answer, he probably has a book that does! Thank you for all you do, and have done to promote the brand! . A very Happy New Year to you and yours.
Wade Drumheller - Frank's son. Only met Wade a couple of times, but nice fellow, and has a few Studebaker Stories of his own to tell!
Gerald Heiter - Frank's friend and "sidekick". Met him at a few events. Nice guy!
John & Sue Weinrich - What can I say, other than family friends! John and I have traveled many a mile to different events, and always amazed what he's going to be doing NEXT to MPH! . That M is definately one "ENGINEERED" vehicle! . Look forward to our next adventure!
George Orphanidys - My wife and I met George O., at a Field Days event, two years ago, and in 2013, on a couple of occasions. Not only has George helped me with needed parts, he was also so kind as to take my wife and I on a guided tour of his "stuff"! A very likeable gentleman who it is always a pleasure to meet up with.
Ted Jensen - WOW! What can I say about Ted? Incredible what he can do with a Studebaker truck! Ted did a complete maintenance overhaul on my truck, right after I got it. The list is too long to mention all he did, but the truck runs like new! I met Ted for the first time, at Reedsville then again at York. An inspiration to sit down and talk with Ted. Looking forward to seeing him again at Dover.
Frank Borowec - Frank (from Germany) and I have got to know each fairly well talking often on SKYPE. Frank visited my wife and I for the Field Days event, and a delight to have him! He even got in some stick time on Old girl! Thanks for all you do, as Webmaster, Studebaker Truck Farmers site!
Jim Beadle - Been to a number of events with Jim, and his beautiful 2R! Always a pleasure to see Jim, and want to wish you a very speedy recovery from your recent operation.
Eric & Kim Branch - Very nice couple who we enjoy being with! Don't think EITHER agree who owns their beautiful 2R, but can definately tell both are Studebaker Nuts!
Jeff Bradel - John and I met Jeff while as the Sully Plantation Car Show this year. Very nice of you to drop by and pass along such nice comments on our trucks on display.
Malcolm Berry - Malcolm is our GO TO guy for STF shirts, and does a great job of getting them delivered! Met Malcolm at York, I believe it was.
Phil Harris - Phil is a wonderful guy, and owner of Fairborn Studebaker.com. Phil has many parts for sale, but I have rang his bell to get "Got Studebaker ?" Sweatshirts. Think that says it all!
Dan Martin - I've met Dan only a couple times, but know he's really involved in his Stude project! Wish you the best as you go forward! Will you make Dover in July?
Jim Sinclair - Met Jim at York and purchased some old TW's from him. Nice fellow.
Gary Hearn - Gary, met you only at Field Days, but your hospitality in having all us STF'ers for our meet and greet is greatly appreciated.n like the straw hat and bibs!
Some, I may have missed, but meeting and interacting with you this past year is what being a Truck Farmer is all about!
From Joan and I, a VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR to one and all. Enjoy the ride!
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 10:32 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Re: Even though I haven't met Vern (would like to).........
Brian: You would enjoy it. Here is my story. I think it was on the last day of the swap meet in Springfield, MO at the International meet, I wondered to the most distant corner of the lot and began going through the many used and other assorted parts that had been displayed by a Missouri native. While digging through these items there was some discussion with the owner of the display. Off in another part of the display I noticed a scruffy fella who had the same idea as me. He was looking for items that he might use and if not use they would meet the needs of one or two of his customers. He was also engaging the owner. At first I paid no attention to their conversation then some word then another caught my attention. Finally I stood up and said you are Vern Ediger, If I remember right he also recognized my voice and said you are Ted Jensen. We had talked on the phone many times trading parts that we needed for a project or to meet the needs of a customer. One never knows when it will happen but from that time I have considered Vern a friend and once in a while we lift the phone to just talk.
Posted on Jan 1, 2014, 12:58 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Brian: thank you for those kind words, but mostly for the kind words you wrote about the others. I remember when I first logged onto this site. There were at that time just a hand full of us. , Frank Drumheller, Gary Ash, Michael Web and some I don't remember. I was so excited to identify with other Studebaker truck owners.
I have met most of those you mentioned and what I would add is Thank you for letting me be your friend, and if that doesn't work Thank you for being mine. Happy New Year
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 7:32 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
words and thoughts. You've included some fine people and Studebaker truck nuts. Some of the finest people with which to associate on the hobby level, but more important on a man-to-man level. In the world in which we live it is comforting to know there are still so many unselfish, civil, and knowledgeable people that any of us can call friend.
Bless you, my friend, and to the many others that could be on the list you started. Happy New Year and may 2014 be kinder to us all. Frank
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 8:42 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
It has been a pleasure meeting you and all the other truck nuts along the way. Lots of miles to come in the future. It's is Kim's "pooky" truck but I will continue to call it ours. Again Happy New Year to you and yours and all of the other great people on STT/ farmers!
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 10:13 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I was visiting the SDC site yesterday, and saw where Stude owners were asked if they would send in vehicle photos for use on their Home Page "flip screen"! I figured, why not? Sent in three photos I had selected, and received a response right back from Mark Wheeler, the site Webmaster, thanking me for my pictures, and it would be posted shortly. When I looked at email this morning, I had another message from Mark, saying a photo of Old Girl had been posted! If you go to the SDC home page, and watch the photos flip, and don't see it, just refresh, and a new batch of pictures appear! Kinda cool!
In addition to the photo sentence, there is another, asking you to fill out a short survey (don't even have to give blood type on this one!), and you have a chance to win an IPad Mini! Costs nothing to try, but must be an SDC member.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 6:33 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Specifically the studebaker booth. La auto show. Chicago auto show. Autorama show etc etc. you would think studebaker would take pics of their own booth. Looking for a pic of my truck. White 59 3/4 4x4. Was studes demonstrator truck for 59. Any help???
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 6:26 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I read the news with great sadness. Andy was always such a character. Who will ever forget the kiss he put on Mario Andretti in 1969 when the STP car won the Indy 500. Gordon Johncock also wheeled an STP car to the Indy 500 win in 1973
Here is what I learned NEW to me.
Granatelli served as CEO of STP after its parent company, STUDEBAKER CORP., put Granatelli in charge of the Chemical Compounds Corp. One of its products was STP Oil Treatment.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 10:34 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
to the Andy Granatelli/Studebaker relationship. A good start would be to pick up a copy of "They Call Me Mr.500". Someone should make a movie about the Granatelli Brothers. The late James Gandolfini(Tony Soprano)would have made a great Andy. JS
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 1:12 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I'm having grinding issues with the starter on my '62 one ton. I think it has a 259 V8. The previous owner's family rebuilt or replaced the original 259. He thought it had a 283. Don't know if he meant 289 or got confused with later Studes having 283's. The number stamped on it is 3E 205I0. Is there any way to tell the 259 & 289 apart visually? Or a car engine vs truck engine?
I pulled the starter off & did my best to measure & eyeball to see if there was an alignment problem. I already have a new starter gear & it matches the flywheel teeth. Everything looks good, but the starter gear is hitting the flywheel gear too far in. It's just barely contacting enough to turn the engine over & slowly grinding the tips of the gears. Like it needs to be spaced out 1/16". These starters have a fixed position in the bellhousing, so no can do. Maybe something is wrong in parts combination? I'm about to order a flywheel gear. I'm going to pull engine to swap gears & also replace engine gaskets, so I will have it on engine stand. Then I'll be able to test & measure better. Plus, I'll get the mouse nest out! Any advice before I go through all this just to find I have the wrong starter for this flywheel? Any way I can find the correct starter #? My local auto parts store couldn't even find a radiator cap. I told him to look up '70 Dodge 1ton & it matched. Well, it fit anyway. Not sure about the 13psi.
Thanks in advance.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 9:15 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Neil just told me that my engine decodes as a '63. I just happened across a thread on SDC tech talking about the difference between '62 partial flow and '63 full flow. My engine has the oil filter on top & draft tube on the back of block. It also has one valve cover with the oil fill/vent cap which '62 shouldn't have? I do have an oil fill tube by t-stat housing. WTH is going on here?
Do I have a '62 or '63 engine?
What is partial flow? Pressurized oil not going to every part of engine?
Does this explain my starter problem?
oy! my head hurts.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 10:31 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
You have a partial flow oil filter which is different from a full flow. All your bearings are pressurized with either kind. Partial just means not all oil is going through the filter, but eventually it all should. Both kinds work fine if you change them regularly. Your valve cover with breather cap was designed for use with PCV valve to(carb)and was a point for outside air to come into crankcase to be pulled with crank fumes into carb by vacuum. Does your engine have a road draft tube off the rear of cover underneath intake manifold?
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 1:09 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Thanks for the explanation. Is it possible the truck engines didn't have full flow in '63 like cars? I have the draft tube. My Chevy with draft tube (inline 6) has a vented valve cover/oil fill cap, so this setup looks right. The oil fill tube's cap on Pumpkin isn't vented. You'd think I would have a vented oil fill cap & valve covers without holes.
I guess I should say that I'm not worried about originality. I just want to make sure my combo isn't the reason for my starter issues.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 10:54 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Do your starter bolts have lock washers under the heads? That will give you the 1/16" you need. Also if you wind up taking the flywheel out the gear teeth can be reversed. Use search function to find here -previously discussed.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 1:16 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Sorry, I didn't explain very well. The clearance I need is to move it more outside the diameter of the flywheel. Like adjusting a generator to tighten belt. Since my starter is in the BH vertical wall, any shimming of the mounting bolts would just change the distance to the flywheel. The only solution I see is to (1)get the right parts, (2)grind down the height of the starter teeth, or (3) elongate the BH mounting holes.
I will check to see how bad all the flywheel teeth are. I hadn't thought about flipping the gear. That would save me $100 that could go to shop labor. I don't think my propane torch will do the job.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 11:22 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
...it may be that the engine swap mated a mis-aligned bell housing to block. Unless the combo was dialed in, unlike Chevies etc....Studes need to have this done or you will go through starter drives every 6-12 months or so.....among other tranny complaints like dropping out of gear etc.....if it's an automatic... you can crack flex plates....
Posted on Jan 4, 2014, 9:02 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
According to the 7E-8E parts catalogue, your engine number 3E-20510 is for a 1963 vintage standard duty truck engine of 259 cubic inch displacement. The 1962's started at 3E-14801 and the 1963's started at 3E- 18901. Not too sure what I can tell you about the starter motor other than there were 2 different part numbers depending on whether you had a 12 inch clutch or not. I have a jobber number of MDU7025 for the non 12 inch clutch application but nothing for the larger one. Studebaker numbers are 1550502 (except for 12" clutch) and 1696603 for the 12 inch application.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 9:56 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Seems to be a 1963 engine alright, and as such should have a full-flow oil filter. It may just be capped off. Anything on the lower right rear of the block? Is the casting number at top right corner (across from the stamped engine number) 1554641?
Also anxious to hear what the starter number is.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 11:38 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Scott: you have gotten a lot of good information and it is hard to improve on that. There a couple of things to consider.
first If the number given is correct your engine is a full flow engine. Some trucks had obstructions where the full flow oil filter goes. Things like exhaust pipes. When that was the case the filter was placed on top and it is a partial flow. However look on the right rear of your block to see if there might be a plate held on with two bolts to the side of the block. It will be a cast machined plate. If you have room you can order a filter attachment and install it then remove the filter on the top.
Second. It is a guess but probably the right one, your real problem is your starter drive. They get dry and do not like to engage properly. Sometimes you can take them off and clean with brake clean and they will work ok but it is usually best to replace them.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 11:47 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Sorry guys. I haven't had a chance to pull the starter to get numbers. I've had some fuel issues that took way longer than planned. Plus I don't like working in the snow. For a while, it was coming down like tiny snowballs. I did just now go out with flashlight & crawl under. I found the block off plate under 1" of dirt. Exhaust looks to be in the way of adding filter. So, it looks like this was an engine designed for full flow, but set up with partial.
I guess this is the only difference in a '62 block vs '63 block. I've had this starter apart back in June to replace the gear. It was clean inside & functioned well. The problem was gear grind between starter & flywheel. I'll report back w/ starter # on Sunday. 10 hour days means no sunlight to work in.
Posted on Jan 3, 2014, 12:04 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Update: I should've had this Sunday, but it only got to 10deg outside. So today I got the starter off, but I couldn't find any numbers other than one on the snout (PS1402) & a painted number (44 1081). There also was a G8 stamped on body. It looks like this starter has had work done judging by stamp. According to the info on the site link from DwainG, my starter is correct. So now I go ahead and pull engine, swap/replace flywheel gear, & replace starter gear. Hopefully everything lines up.
A bit concerned with SOME freeway driving that must be done. NO trailer would be considered! Old Girl is not a Trailer Queen! If I can't drive her, she's not going!
If decision is made to go, some "Stude company" would be nice ( John, Jim, Eric, etc,). Something to think about.
(Wonder how many more trucks like mine will be there????)
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 6:46 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
join the convoy, in their 2R, that would be MORE spare parts added! If we got all those Studes together, somebody ought to make it all the way to Dover! Have to put slowest vehicle in front though! I haven't figured out mileage yet, but for me it would be about a 3 12 to 4 hour trip.
What an ADVENTURE it would be!
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 2:38 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Gerald Hiter and I are planning to drive to Dover in my Caravan. The Caravan will be loaded to the roof with all kinds of Studebaker parts and a lot of Studebaker memorabilia. We normally fill up 3-4 vendor spaces.
I say planning, because I can't do the things (lifting, setting up tables-stands, standing, etc.) that I used to do. But, we are PLANNING! The last time we vended (2013 at York), Gerald had to do most of the manual labor. Thank goodness for younger friends!!
Talking about Dover, we need to have someone take charge in hosting a STUDEBAKER TRUCK FARMERS ninth reunion dinner at an International Meet of SDC. Planning and commitments for such an event takes time.
LET'S ALL GO OVER TO DOVER!!
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 6:09 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
However lots going on. We sold our house, will be moving into a rental end of next week for approx. 6 months, that's going to be same time as SDC meet. One problem with our truck is not enough room for us and 2 boys, so we would drive my other truck or the RV.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 7:14 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
My right front wheel cylinder on my 42 M15-20 started leaking the other day, took it apart and found it too pitted to rebuild. I did a search on here because i recalled that someone had posted that 36 through 47 ford were the same? I have found these for sale at about 55 bucks. Does any one know a cheaper source and is this information correct? Does anyone have one that they would part with that could be rebuilt? Are M5 the same? Lots of questions. Any help would be appreciated
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 3:30 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I think I have some wheel cyl from a 48 ford car I used to own, can send to you and see if it will fit before you order. [ I better look and make sure I still have them, ] there is a left and rite and they are step type.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 4:40 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
39-41 Ford 1/2 ton and Merc. (fronts only) should work with minor.......
modification/re-routing. The wagner assembly number for these cylinders is FD-4500/4501. I'm not certain what the casting number on the cylinders are, I'd have to look that up. They are step bore 1" X 1 1/4" 39-41 Ford 1/2 ton, and 39-41 Merc.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013, 2:57 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
In Jan 2014 Turning Wheels on page 13 is photo of manifolds side of Commander engine. The intake manifold has small tubing going down to vacuum booster (for wipers) on fuel pump, but also has tubing going down(from same point on intake)to what? Looks dead ended to me. Have not seen this piece of tubing on any Commander engine I've rebuilt.
Also would like to thank other STT folks for their posts and pictures this past year and all the sound advice. A special shout to Vern for humor.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 11:15 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
That tube has a check ball on it's end. If you flood your engine it drains off excess fuel. When engine is started the vacuum pulls ball against seat. I know it works as many times I have actually seem gas dripping out of them. Jerry Kurtz
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 12:31 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
On my 226 Commander engine (M16 truck), the vacuum booster valve is screwed into the intake manifold. A vacuum line connects the vacuum booster pump (which runs off of the oil pump) to the vacuum booster valve, and there is another line that connects this valve to the wipers.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 9:05 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Anyone elce ever try and takeover a half finished project?
I have a 53 3/4 ton that I bought with lots of spare parts and was completely there...??!!
Now 3 months in and so far the remachined block and crank( as advertised) were left out in the back of the truck for 4 months in the weather apparently in the divorce the guy lost his storage. There were 5 of the 6 connecting rods in the box a new set of 6 pistons no rings and no crankshaft to be found.
The extra fender for the damaged one on the truck is pristine but it happens to be off of a larger truck and has the wrong size wheel opening.
The extra motor that was only there because it was attached to a three speed overdrive transmission turned out to compression test well and now runs like a champ, however when we installed it the transmission mount includes was the wrong one and when we put the rad in front of it it turned out to be out of an m series truck.
I am sure the motor I am using is out of a car as the truck breather won't match up to it correctly ( throttle body height) .
It was originally a 4 speed truck so the speedo cable is different as well.
It does have 5 brand new tires and rims though and the exhaust is also new and it was only a 14 hour drive each way to go get it so that sorta makes it all worth while doesn't it.
Told my wife I was taking her on a fall colour tour when we left she was all for it till she saw the car trailer attached to the truck, fortunately she is a good sport about things like that, plus she has 5 motorcycles and I only have 3 studebakers,2 more till I really start catching hell.
Dad has an avant a 56 p/u a 57 stud 4 door he's working on now and 3 finished early 60 studs so fortunately there is a good shop, good knowledge of the brand and a fair amount of parts around at any given time.
I wish everyone happy holidays, good luck on their projects in the upcoming year, now I will finish my coffee and head to the shop sometimes it just feels good to vent. John
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 7:31 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I have bought several projects like that, I was never going to do, just part out. most were going to be street rods, bought lots of parts, tore all apart and the wife seen it, end of project and some times married life. losing the project may have been worse than losing the wife for some of them.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 4:47 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
You have a wide wheel well opening fender for a C cab??!!! Pristine? You have gold man! Which kidney do you want?
Uh.... I mean you should just get rid of that useless hunk of metal. I'll do you a favor & scrap it.
Seriously. I need one of you are willing to sell. Poor Pumpkin's ('62 1ton dually)fenders are rusted & beat. They are both bad, but the driver fender is tweaked way worse. I think the PO tried to knock a tree down.
I feel for you on the project. I'd rather bring back a stock truck sitting for 50 years than someone's failed project.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013, 9:48 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Mine is a passenger side fender school bus yellow would look good on the ol pumpkin, but seriously I had 2 other offers on it all ready if you need drivers side you should take Vern up on his . Send me an email or phone number and I can send you a picture if you want. John
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 1:37 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
As I mentioned in another thread, I've had several projects offered to me of late.
The seller usually begins with how much work he's done and how much money he's spent. When a prospective buyer sometimes has to point out how much of that effort and investment was in the wrong direction and how much it's going to complicate the effort trying to unravel what's been done and what parts have gone missing, the negotiations get sticky.
My suggestion usually is, "All that Chevy stuff is probably much more valuable to a Chevy guy, so lets just negotiate on the Studebaker stuff."
What it often comes down to is the BrandX stuff gets thrown in for free because the wife has said it all has to be gone from the driveway by New Year's Day or you will be.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013, 6:34 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
New Members signed up for the STUDEBAKER TRUCK FARMERS
by Frank from Germany
Here we grow again welcome to
Jimmy Abril he send this message
Lo felicito, tiene una hermosa camioneta studebaker me puede informar el codigo del color de pintura. me gusto. hasta pronto
welcome John Mitchell
and welcome Bob Smith
he want to let us know
I have a 1/2 ton 1953 Studebaker 2R C-Cab. Restored and on the road!
Eddie Heath is the next one who signed up
look what he wrote
Recently acquired a Classic (slightly modified) 1950 model, one ton stake-bed truck. It is fitted with a 1958 289 engine, backed by a
5 speed OD transmission. The tranny has some issues that I would like to address when the weather gets better. I need to know if there are parts available for this transmission. Believe it needs 3rd gear synchro ring, probably some misc bearings and all gaskets.
Glad to be member of Studebaker Truck Farmer group!
Bill Wilson is also a new member of the Studebaker Truck Farmers now
Now we are a group of 528 Truck Nuts
Posted on Dec 28, 2013, 3:28 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Looks like a 1956 Transtar to me. The paint scheme on the driver's door shows detail of the 2 tone paint for 1956 plus the rounded front bumper makes me beliebe that it's a 1956 model. I'm only mentioning this in case someone needs some 1956 specific parts.
Posted on Dec 28, 2013, 9:38 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I still have four (4) free adult tickets to the STUDEBAKER NATIONAL MUSEUM which are good through June 30, 2014. STF received these freebies as a result of our annual contribution of $250 for adopting the 1963 Prototype pickup which belongs to the Museum.
I would hate to see these tickets go to waste!!! First come, first served. Will be mailed free of charge. Thanks. Frank
Posted on Dec 27, 2013, 6:38 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
If you have trouble finding them in your area, you can make your own. I made the clips out of lightweight corner braces for drawers, from the hardware store...just fold at the seam. Then I bought a bag of brake springs from my FLAPS and heated them with a torch until I got the correct angle. Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 26, 2013, 9:57 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Thanks for the tip, but I'm looking for a whole truck. This might be a good tip if i get one that needs some front clip parts though. I wonder how the fenders are. Maybe Ed above could call and check on them as an option for his project.
They had my attention for a second or so, but common sense prevailed. A couple of issues: First is the size, I want something that can be a daily driver, a truck you can drive around town and park without any issues. Second is the issue of air brakes. An air brake equipped vehicle is a different breed of animal. I think here in California you need a certification from DMV to operate an airbrake equipped vehicle and I believe the vehicle requires an inspection by the state besides.
Posted on Dec 26, 2013, 1:03 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Frank, I received a very special Studebaker related gift, from my 14 year old Grandson, this year. I have sent you a PM, asking for your thoughts, or any information on this. I know, at times, you have experienced "glitches" with your computer, so thought I would ask, here, if you received the PM okay? Thanks for what you can provide.
Posted on Dec 26, 2013, 6:53 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I've read a lot on here...first post. Restoring grandpa's 1949 2R-10 (and it needs a lot of TLC). Concerning master cylinders - I understand I need a 1 1/8 bore from a M1461. M2796's are everywhere & fairly inexpensive, but only a 1 inch bore. Does anyone have a source for the M1461? I can't seem to find any for under $200 (vs. $40 for the 2796). If I go with the 2796 will I notice a difference? Planning on rebuilding the entire braking system. Thanks & Happy Holidays!
Posted on Dec 25, 2013, 11:46 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Bryan, If you have the original, would like to have it work like new, and save money and time I recommend you have it rebuilt. Send it to Apple Hydraulics in LI, NY. They can completely rebuild it with new sleeves and internal parts. When you get back it will be ready to install and fill with fluid. I had them do my 2R16 and it works great. I had them do some of the wheel cylinders that were pitted also.
Posted on Dec 26, 2013, 8:16 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Brian: if you have the time and are willing and have a parts house that is willing as well you can look in their picture book of brake masters and find one for a ford that will fit. I did this on one truck and the NAPA part number is 14021. Now I put power brakes on this truck and the master is 1 1/4 inch, but they did have 1 1/8 masters there as well. If I remember right even the holes lined up with the holes on the holding bracket just as did the Studebaker master. At that time the receipt shows a cost of $124.
Posted on Dec 28, 2013, 10:56 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11