A forum for any messages related to Studebaker Trucks
License plate frames in Iowa
by Jim Mackey
Just read that the Iowa supreme court ruled that Iowa licenses have to be completely visible to the police. This means that license plate frames that block the county name will result in traffic stops and possible citations.
Iowa drivers need to check this out.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 11:36 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
.. but I am keeping my original Pierotti Motors (Fremont, CA) frames and deal with the consequences. Apparently, they won't pull you for it, but if they pull you for something else and see that, it's $50.
Posted on May 8, 2014, 5:38 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
One cannot block the validation sticker in the lower right hand corner. It shows month and year, as well as the plate number in microscopic font. I can't see how a Trooper could see it anyway! Two years ago, the DMV decided to only give out a sticker for the rear plate to save money, but they still printed VOID on a front sticker! Finally they started only printing one.
Posted on May 9, 2014, 7:49 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I'm cleaning up and repainting the engine and accessories in the 1958 with 259. The generator appears to be black. How glossy? The belt pulley seems to be a bluish gray color. Is this correct? What about the nut on the pulley? Mine does not screens or anything on each end to keep out bugs and debris (Neither does the generator on my Sky Hawk) Is this correct? Does anyone have pictures of one done right?
Thanks for your help.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 11:28 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
GM/Delco painted all their components a semi-gloss black that is available from Eastwood as "underhood black". I believe Auto-lite painted their generators and starters with similar paint. Yes, the pulleys had some sort of phosphate coating that made them a dusty gray. I believe the nuts were normal steel. And no screens on any Delco generators I've seen. Dunno about A-L.
Posted on May 8, 2014, 9:40 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Generally there are no screens on generators or alternators. The only application where screens are found (because they are mandatory)are in boats as spark arrestors. Screens are sometimes found on heavy duty/emergency vehicle applications. Neal
Posted on May 12, 2014, 8:19 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Why does it seem like the Pacific Northwest is so full of nice and interesting Studebaker trucks on such a regular and continuous basis? It seems like almost every couple of weeks there is some new before unknown offering coming out of that area.
I'm glad I live just far enough away to make it less tempting to drag these finds home. I'm glad I'm not in your shoes, not sure I'd have enough will power to hold myself back. You seem to have a will of extra hardened steel Zane. But, I guess at a certain point, enough IS actually enough. Unless it was maybe a long bed 4X4 of course.
Posted on May 8, 2014, 12:21 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Similar to the one in Deridder, LA. Color and all.
by Jeff S.
Look back to page 3 STT, April 9th '14 (which is also a craigslist find). Your subject vehicle has a realistic price at $2,800.oo, where the other one (in Louisiana) was at $11,000.oo. I thought they were the same truck, as the conditions of each are very close. The details reveal otherwise, and the locations clarify it without question. J.S.
Posted on May 8, 2014, 12:31 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
which one does not see often in the two-tone paint scheme for sale. I remember when the '56 trucks came into the showrooms and sales lots in Staunton and Waynesboro, VA. This two-tone scheme was 'over the top' for domestic trucks. The only thing that came close to it was the '55 Chevy El Camino in it's white and red two-tone. The Studebaker two-tone paint scheme was optional at an extra cost of (hold your breath!) of $17.50.
I recall vividly a two tone blue 2E13 that our local milkman, Jesse, purchased the first of 1956 (he was an independent rural milk and cream pickup man). He was young and had a little bit of 'hot rod' blood in his system. The truck had the new synchronized four speed manual. Didn't take him long to put a dual exhaust system on it (probably a home-made one). We could hear him coming up the steep hill near our home, downshifting to third. A glorious sound. Every chance I had, I would go out in the front yard just to listen to him pull away shifting that syncho. That was a new experience back in the mid-50's. I left home in the summer of '56 and I've never seen nor heard of Jesse since.
I also recall a 1/2 tonner, as the one pictured above, in the Staunton area at that time. One couldn't help watching it move down the streets. It really stood out among the everyday 'bowties', 'blue ovals', and IH's.
Those mid-50's Studebaker trucks were something else!!! Frank
PS- Jesse also owned a '54 Starliner in red and crème. At the time, I figured the cream and milk business was the way to go! F
Posted on May 9, 2014, 6:47 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Need information on the heater in my pickup. Need a book on how to put it all back together. The plate on heater says, SUPER POWER HEATER. I can not seem to find any info on this heater. Please Help !!!
Posted on May 7, 2014, 10:49 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Hi Vern, Thank you for getting back to me. I believe Dwain hit the nail on the head. He sent a picture of a heater and it is the same one I have. I still need to find a schematic to put it back together.
Posted on May 12, 2014, 12:41 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
My insurance company has chosen not to renew coverage on my Champ, but want to sell me a policy from Grundy. The problem is that I would not be allowed to carry even a single 2x4 in it, or leave it out in the driveway overnight, which I sometimes do. It seems every collector policy I have checked has very similar restrictions.
What insurance do you all use? Is any collector coverage available for pickups that does not have these restrictions?
Posted on May 7, 2014, 7:22 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Ted, I checked with them, I'm not sure how you haul cars on yours using their insurance. Once again, even a 2X4 is excluded for my truck.
I'm pretty unhappy with all the changes this agency has made over the past few years, and this problem insuring the truck will push me to a different agency and company, and continue with general automotive coverage IF I can find anyone that will give me an agreed value policy.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 4:14 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Bob, be careful, Hagerty was very clear to me that they only insure for show use, etc.
After Geico gave me the disappointing info from their end on the Champ, I called Hagerty and they basically said the same thing as far as what they could offer. They would not cover any damage claims for normal type of use, and particularly for a pickup and work use, even if just personal. No trips to the hardware store, grocery store or even just dropping the kids of at school or any of that - show use and safe storage at home only, or while being worked on. So, if you are driving and something happens, you probably need to be able to verify you were doing something along those lines and not going down to Home Depot to get a box of nails. The agent I spoke with was very clear about that, to me anyway.
Geico has their own 3rd party collector car insurance they offer, but it was basically the same deal. I can't recall the name off hand, but wasn't Hagerty.
Now, your trucks are super nice and maybe you do only use them for show for the most part, etc. So, maybe that is a good option of you.
BTW, they both told me with the collector insurance, they don't care how many miles you drive them, as long as it is for show or related purposes. Could be 20K miles a year if wanted. Vise versa for normal usage, they don't care how little it is. Could be only 100 miles a year or 1 trip to the store, still not allowed. Obviously if they don't know, they don't know. But, if you happen to be at Home Depot and somebody backs into you there, they probably won't cover it unless you can convince them you were getting some tools to work on the truck and you were just on the way to a show.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 5:23 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Re: Bob, be careful, Hagerty was very clear to me that they only insure for show use, etc.
I really only use mine for shows and cruise nights , heck we've driven over 2000 miles in the Champ to an International and I think we did stop in a Home Depot on the way . Around here there are cruise nights every night of the week so we can always find a place we are going even if it is only a trip for a 2X4 !
Posted on May 7, 2014, 7:20 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I just have mine on my Geico account as an additional vehicle which ends up being a couple hundred a year. They also have a collector car option but has those restrictions too. So I stuck with the normal insurance so I can use the truck.
Problem with normal insurance is they treat it as just an old car and don't give it much value for repair or replacement and they wouldn't accept a current day agree value or appraised value. You get all the liability and unrestricted use, but they don't give it much $ value as an object itself. That works ok with a fairly low value kind if truck, but not good for a high value, restored one.
Basically they assign it a value based on what it sold as new back whenever and that is it. NOT whatever blue book value or similar it might have no matter what condition it is in. I was quite surprised when they told me that.
So, it is good for my driver 2R11 up to now and I just have liability on it. But is not a great choice for the restored Champ I just got. But, I want to use the Champ too. So, I just need to be extra careful with it.
In my search, I could not find a carrier that provided full coverage like it would be for a new car with full actual value. If anyone knows for of one, I'd like to know myself too.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 10:46 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I think you'll find restrictions across the board. Mine wants me to park it in a secure place at night, can't use it for commercial purposes, and a restriction on the miles driven per year. Doesn't stop me from enjoying it and hauling stuff around.
Premium: about $110/year with a pre-agreed upon value in case of loss.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 11:34 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I might look into Metlife for the Champ. I like the agreed value and the ability to actually use it some within reason instead of just treating it like a show queen.
Do you have Metlife for all of your cars or just the Studebakers? My trucks are currently just extra vehicles on our family policy so they don't add that much like they would if they were on their own or were considered the primary vehicles.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 5:04 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
My other vehicles are with, coincidently, Geico. Been thinking about shopping around and finding someone who'll cover ALL my vehicles collectively. Can't remember when I last had a claim and I feel that I'm paying too much with Geico.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 6:03 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I'm not sure if I'm paying too much with them compared to others or not. I have never bothered to get a different quote in years. But, basically I have never filed a claim with them or any auto insurance company in my entire life, 30+ years now. I am the kind of person they make tons of money one, yet they still don't want to insure a nice, older truck for just a realistic value. It isn't like I was even asking for something super expensive, just the $15K I paid for it.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 7:27 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
State Farm offers stated value policies. I have all my insurance with them because I wanted to be able to buy a several million dollar umbrella policy. If you hit someone or someone falls on your sidewalk and decides to sue you, with that much at stake the insurance companies will use their lawyers instead of paying a few thousand and throwing you to the litigious wolves. Nothing is simple or cheap.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 5:45 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
This is one time when I am glad we have mandated provincial insurance. I have Collector plates on my Transtar and my annual policy - licence and insurance runs about $230/year. This is basic insurance, underinsured motorist protection ($1M), Full Comprehensive $300 deductible w/$200 for windshield, Collision - $500 deductible and $2M 3rd party liability. I can drive and carry whatever I want as long as I don't exceed GVW or drive impaired.
The only limitation is that I cannot drive the truck to work - ever, it is for "pleasure" use which excludes driving to work or school. I know it doesn't help you Ron, but it is interesting to compare.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 7:40 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I've had USAA for home and auto for more than forty years. They pretty much forced me to go to American Collectors Insurance for coverage for my Studebakers. So far, no complaints, other than having to make two different payments.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 9:59 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
In British Columbia the socialist insurance company
we dealt with as they are the only ones available. You would pay around $260.00 a year for a collector plate and only restriction is cannot drive to and from work or to and from school.
if you Antique plates then you can only use it for show and shines nothing else.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 10:46 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
We have State Farm on the house and all the cars.
Last year they replaced a windshield in my F-250 in a horse barn at the South Bend Fairgrounds (caught a rock going thru Chicago. Later they replaced a windshield in Mama's Fusion in Longmont, CO as we caught a rock on the way home from Colorado Springs., They also replaced the wiring harness in my Avanti after my voltage regulator shorted out on the way to St. Louis for the Zone Meet.
No complaints here.
Posted on May 15, 2014, 9:05 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I am hot rodding a 1951 2R Truck. I am putting a GM front clip on the truck so the front pan will be gone, a bumper will be flush against the truck.
What other make/model/year front bumpers work on a Studebaker 2R? I was looking for a bumper that has a natural fit and lines that look good on a Studebaker truck
Posted on May 6, 2014, 5:12 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I have been looking for one for my 2R with a Camaro clip as well. A buddy has one with a late 40s Ford F1 that looks pretty good but to me is a little short. Saw a custom fitted Camaro bumper that was cool but seemed like a lot of work. Maybe early Chevy?
Posted on May 6, 2014, 7:29 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Mike; if you are looking for the OEM look try find a rear bumper for a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. If that is not successful Order a rear bumper front bumper for a Zip van from Studebaker International. It is nearly the same and would fill in straight real nice on the front of your truck.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 10:40 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Looking for a couple opinions here. I'm taking the M5 running boards in to be media blasted and will then have a choice to powder coat them or paint them. What do you guys think? Also, should they be a gloss black or semi-gloss?
Posted on May 6, 2014, 1:29 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Powder coating is fine, but if you plan to step on them to get into the truck, you may find cracks in the coating.........As the boards will flex when stepped upon.
My painter did mine in Por 15 thinned with acetone and sprayed on.
It was gloss black. I installed a step plate to avoid scratches.
.......No problems 3 years and counting....
Posted on May 6, 2014, 10:08 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I had mine power coated and even though I do step on them, they are just fine after a couple 4 years or so. I did mine in a satin black that made me cringe a few times after I got them back. Maybe I shoulda' had them done in gloss but they do look good. Could be I just got used to them. Either way, properly prepped and painted they will look great and wear well.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 10:39 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Vote for your personal favorite Studebaker truck year/model
On another thread, I suggested I preferred the cheapo Scotsman because it didn't have the fiberglass grille.
This suggested a discussion of personal favorites and why. All the Studebaker trucks have been beautiful, but even in Miss Universe, there's a 1st, 2nd, 3rd.
JMHO, but I prefer the '54-55 3/4t because of the one-piece windshield, the grille design and the Budd wheels. I actually like the look of the '54 small rear window, but the '55 E12 wins because of the V8.
A close second would be a 1949 1-ton pickup equipped with the cast spoke Dayton detachable rim wheels. That was one butch pickup.
Bottom line, I'm sure sharing this will bring to light the subtle differences not noticed by those who don't own your personal fave.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 11:52 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
And they use to be my least favorite. And, I still like the 2R trucks for their simplicity and fresh design when they first came out.
But, I like pretty much any of them although I don't really know all that much about the 20-30's trucks.
But, one question, I'm pretty sure the '49 2R15 1-ton trucks never had an option for the Dayton wheels like the early M series trucks did. have you ever seen an example of one with those wheels? If so, I'd really like to see that. As far as I am aware, they only ever had the Budd type wheels. My 2R15 1-ton has the Budd wheels and it was made in Oct. '48 if I recall.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 2:02 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Re: Vote for your personal favorite Studebaker truck year/model
Personally I like the R series , those trucks were designed by Bob Burke and they had the 2 piece windshield and the smaller back window . When those 2 items got changed it took away from his original design......just my opinion
Posted on May 6, 2014, 3:46 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Re: Vote for your personal favorite Studebaker truck year/model
1937 J5 Coupe-Express for me. Love the '38 &'39 C-E, my '46 M5 the 2R5 as well. But Studebaker really reached their Art Deco pinnacle with the '37 models. Still kicking myself for not pursuing a J5 that I had the opportunity to acquire for $1500 about 20 years ago...
Posted on May 6, 2014, 6:28 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
It is hard for me to pick a favorite! I love all 4x4 Studes. I love the looks of the M15 with a pickup box and Dayton Cast wheels, and all coupe express trucks. But I think the most beautiful trucks are the 55's. I love the grille and the old hood. I don't own one but I would like to. The 56's are a little cleaner looking but the Transtar hood just doesn't do it for me. I think the 56 trucks had the best two tone paint scheme. I have been working on a members Champ pickup, and I have fallen in love with it! I am a 3/4 ton and bigger truck guy. Budd wheels on any truck are just cool! My 2 cents.
Posted on May 7, 2014, 12:14 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
the '57 3E14 w/9' bed is my favorite. I like the styling, the fiberglass grill, the directional/parking lights on the front fenders, the 9' bed, the swing back tail lights, the color and the list goes on and on. The truck brings the crowds at events, like no other. It's not the fastest puppy on the road, but, not intended to be. Above all, I have to thank Ted Jensen for putting the truck in the condition it is!
All that said, I also like the Coupe Express and any of the 4x4 models. Some real cool Studebaker fire trucks out there also! Until 2012 I never paid much attention to Studebaker. Now, I wouldn't drive another vintage model! Along with the "brand", there are also some very nice Stude truck nuts out there!
Posted on May 7, 2014, 3:56 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I like Jack like many different models of Stude trucks. I like 57(I was born in 57 and first truck i ever drove was my Grandpa's 3E40 grain truck) I have an 3E6. deluxe. It will be a beautiful truck when done.
Next is 2E7 I have one of these too. But the STude truck I really want is a US6!
Posted on May 7, 2014, 5:47 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Can't beat the scream of the Detroit Diesel. 4-53, 5 speed direct, 3 speed aux trans, 5:47 hi side axel, cast spoke hubs, rideing on 22.5 rubber. Color it orange with a 16 foot flat bed. It is now in George O. stable. Jim
Posted on May 7, 2014, 11:55 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The PO of this truck was in the process of lowering the stance. He pulled out some leaves and installed blocks. He saved everything removed and I wish to return it to the stock height (or close to it). What is the correct number of leaves, front and back, for this truck ? Once installed, can I carry 1000 lbs in the back ? You know; cord wood, mulch, etc... The rear leaves appear very narrow, and I'm sure correct. Also, the shop manual with the truck jumps from R5 - R10,11,+. I don't see any mention of 2R6. Can I assume that I should simply go by the 1/2 ton info ? 2R5 ?
Posted on May 6, 2014, 10:14 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Well my truck (2R6) has up front: 6 on the driver's and 9 on the pass. side. Out back: 8 per side..... I will re-install the 4 removed leaves out back and see what things look like. I plan on "working" this truck with the occasional mulch (1yd) and some other loads. I doubt the inbalance up front is a major concern in that respect.. I would've thought the truck would prefer more on the driver's front seeing as I once had a Champ truck with a spacer....(talked about here).....
Posted on May 8, 2014, 9:03 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
The info you got from 2R5 and Vern is correct. Your truck originally had 10 leaves in front and either 9 (standard) or 11 (HD) in the rear. The 2R6 had slightly heavier springs in the front to accommodate the heavier Commander 6. If your shop manual doesn't cover the 2R6, you have a copy of the first edition, which was later revised to accommodate the Commander 6 engine, which was not initially available in the half-ton pickups.
Posted on May 9, 2014, 9:05 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Hey Rod I was there & saw your Truck You deserve that Trophy! Nice Truck! I had the 56 Chevy 210 Hardtop Found by The Pickers! Yellow & Green 28K Orig Miles! Left early & didn't see you get your trophy! Congrads! Bill
Posted on May 5, 2014, 11:08 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Having problems with my 49 2r10. 6 cyl champion engine all standard set up 6 volts ignition. Problem i'm having is when i accelerate the engine, or change speeds under load, the engine skips bad. At an idle or constant load it runs smooth. Engine starts descent both hot and cold but can't get rid of the skip. I believe it is either a problem with the accelerator pump in the carb (which has been rebuilt) or it's an ignition problem possibly the points are jumping. Everything seem s to be set up correctly, timing, point gap etc. Plug wires are new, new plugs, points, condenser, cap have no time on them. Any ideas would be helpful
Posted on May 5, 2014, 9:39 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
A six volt system doesn't have any juice to spare.
1. Make sure the battery is charged. Remove the clamps, clean the battery posts and the inside of the clamps. Follow the cables to the other end and clean both the positive and the ground connections.
2. Are the cables real thick 6V cables? Often, they've been swapped out for the skinny 12V stuff. It won't carry enough juice.
3. Check the connections from the ignition to the coil, the coil to the distributor. Does the distributor have the internal ground? Check the wire from the points to the coil with an Ohm meter. When in doubt, try another condenser. The Chicom stuff we're getting these days is junk.
4. Pull the distributor and have it checked on a Sun machine. This stuff is now more than sixty years old. Bushings wear, centrifugal advance wears, cam wears.
Posted on May 5, 2014, 10:48 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
When you say "there's not enought juice," what do you mean? Does the engine crank but won't start or does the starter not crank the engine at all or crank it to slowly to start? If you clearify the situation maybe we could give better advise.
Posted on May 12, 2014, 12:45 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I think your points are bouncing. Some points come with a real weak spring and a separate helper spring that is installed over the spring that is part of the points. If this separate spring is not installed your engine will run like crap when it is reved up.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 7:20 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Guys, thanks for the quick response. I checked all the wires AGAIN!! Found the power lead to the coil loose inside the stake-on, the wire looked a bit overheated. I cut it back and installed a new stake-on. The skipping has reduced significantly but has not completely gone away. That being said, i'm quite certain it is an ignition problem not the carberator. I will replace the coil next it is probably overheated now as well then work my way through each component until i get it right. The distributer itself seems to be tight, no wiggle in the shaft and the wear on the cap is even all the way around. I will update when this is resolved
Posted on May 6, 2014, 8:07 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Check the float level in your carburetor. Remove the top of the carburetor and check the distance from the top of the float to the top edge of the carburetor casting. It is supposed to be approximately 5/32". If it is below this dimension you are lacking fuel to accelerate. Also check the fuel line check valve which is what the float activates, it could be sluggish in opening all the way. Sometimes the little pin has a rubber tip which can degrade if it is not compatible with ethanol fuels.
Replace it with a viton tipped pin or an all metal pin.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 9:23 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Ill check, I at one time had three. I know I have one I checked all out and painted and another that was taken apart and the column removed and looked good and another. Ill look when sun comes up see if I can help.
Posted on May 6, 2014, 6:33 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Without teasing you too much, take a closer look at the picture
They are $375 and they had M, C-cab, and T-cabs. I got this at Studebaker International. I didn't know they were being repopped so this was a pleasant surprise. While I'd love to get one cheaper, I sure can't repair the one I have for less than that. It is pretty beat up. Without question the tailgate is the single most important piece of sheet metal on any pickup truck. When someone sees an old truck they make a bee-line for the back to see what kind it is.
Posted on May 4, 2014, 9:46 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Yesterday was a great day! . Due to a bike race closing streets in Richmond, I put OG on the freeway for the first time. Travelled at 45-50 in the right lane and didn't have any problem at all! The show was located north of Richmond, and for me about a 100 mile round trip. Show was great! Show supported the Ladysmith VFD, and they really know how to do a show right! Even had a live band on stage.
I did win a few items on ticket drawings, but at the end, when awards were announced, Old Girl took Top Vintage Truck, and the Scotty won the Speciality Vehicle award! Not bad.
Sure missed John not being there, this year, with MPH, but he had prior commitments.
OG never knew the Scotty was back there! Very little gas used on this trip.
PS. The trailer has been converted entirely to electric. No propane or 12V on this thing. Air conditioner, referigerator, heater, coffee maker, toaster and microwave are all electric. This trailer reflects vintage, with modern upgrades. Microwave is not mounted, and rides on trailer floor when traveling. Formica countertop will be cut out to install SS sink/faucet I have, 10 gal freshwater tank will be installed under couch, and grey water holding tank under sink. Porta potty with privacy screen also in the works. Amazing how so much can be packet into 9-1/2 feet!
Posted on May 4, 2014, 8:28 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Mike - Vern's statement that the M and the R door latches are the same make my experience perhaps applicable. Both my 2R10 latches had the same failure - a sharply bent 90 degree tang on a torsion spring had broken at the bend, just where you would expect corrosion and the severe cold work due to forming to act up together. If SI replaces this spring with new in their rebuild and does not use a workaround, then the chances of a DIYer finding a replacement spring would appear nil, as it is obviously a specialty item. I was lucky, as SI still had some of the NOS latches on hand. Perhaps someone could enlighten me as to how SI rebuilds the latches. Do they use new manufacture springs or do they have a workaround that eliminates the need? Curious. Good luck, Mike.
Posted on May 3, 2014, 12:50 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Cassandra and Bryan from New Zealand needs your help
by Frank from Germany
Just get a sign up for the Studebaker Truck Farmers from Cassandra and Bryan from New Zealand.
Maybe one of you can help them.
Here is the message:
Hi from New Zealand,
What an awesome internet site!
We have a M16 Studebaker Truck currently undergoing a full restoration. It has 56425 original miles on the clock. It will have a Holmes recovery winch fitted on completion. Not sure of colour schemes yet but originally she was Red. We have it completely in bits at the moment & not a sign of rust anywhere thanks to the Californian desert we found it in.
Once restoration is complete we intend to drive our Studebaker frequently on short & long journeys, we have a Classic Commercial truck group that we belong to & have taken our other old trucks on multiple trips within New Zealand, sometimes our trips are about 3000 miles so we cover some serious country.
We are hoping that someone within the group may have a photo of a M16 & a M5 side by side - over here in NZ we drive on the other side of the road to you guys & our transport authority is wanting us to convert our M16 to Right hand drive due to its size, we could drive an M5 unconverted as a left hand drive & would like to show that the size difference is not immense but do not have any photos of the two models side by side to prove our point!
Cheers, Cassandra & Bryan
Posted on May 2, 2014, 9:04 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
First off join the Studebaker drivers club how have heap of knowledge along with a excellent parts store and can access from USA
I will try to find a photo of both models together taken at Watchorn in north island
Heavy left hand drive veicles can be reg and cof but are no allowed to carry any load
Contact me at email@example.com or 035788662
Posted on May 2, 2014, 9:21 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Time to install rear cab glass. How does the seal fit in? Manual explains putting glass & seal inside and pulling string to get flap over metal flange. But the seal seems to have a really large flap on one side and not on the other. Does the large flap end up on the inside of the cab? I didn't remove glass.
Posted on May 2, 2014, 4:59 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Cousin Bob and I visited a couple of Studebaker afficionados these past couple of days, Keith Mifflin on Wednesday and Neil Wollam today. Had a good time visiting, swapping stories. And it was great to associate faces to the names. Temperatures are in the mid-eighties here, georgeous.
Posted on May 1, 2014, 9:02 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
And those nice guys temporarily saved me from painting window sills and cleaning glass on house front. Enjoyed meeting them and probably talked too much. Can get me going if the subject is Studes and I learned another truck parts source. Hope to see them again.
Posted on May 2, 2014, 1:44 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
We don't think I can buy just the housing for my axles and gears to go in? got feelers out for a replacement. Damn maybe I need ot find that active reaend off a police crown vic. This much trouble putting mine back on I might as well go big ! of course I can put the 3/4 temken on it and have a half ton front 3/4 ton rear.
I should re name it to Beast.
Posted on May 1, 2014, 11:27 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I have the temkin out of my 2r10. Friday it is going to scrap if I don't here anything about it or any one needing it. I have to clean some stuff out of the yard. My project is going on hold for about a week while I redo the head gaskets on my wifes land rover. UGH
There is the rear end, entire axle drums and all. Im keeping springs if I can break them loose.
There is also the front end, Im keeping the axle springs and swing arm. Rest drums, front brake stuff is all going to scrap.
Speak up or these parts are Toyota toys in a month.
Posted on Apr 30, 2014, 10:52 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Keep the brake parts and the axles for a Dana 60 conversion
Anyone wanting to put a Dana 60 under a pre-56 could use the brakes and axles on the end of the Dana housing. Not only does it keep the 6-lug look, the brakes are twice as good as those which come on the D60.
Posted on Apr 30, 2014, 11:06 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I love my Toyota Matrix which is made of Studebaker metal, one of the better vehicles we have owned in a long time, packs lumber etc just as well as the 8E12 did.
The only thing is I don't get the thumbs up like I used to. Though when I'm all loaded up for construction I get the thumbs up as being a stupid thinker.
Posted on May 3, 2014, 2:00 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Is there anyone here who is going to South Bend and would have the ability and willingness to carry a bench seat for a Champ back to or close to the St. Louis area? If so please write me at the blue name above and I will give you the particulars.
Posted on Apr 29, 2014, 2:26 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Made a call on your behalf, and Jim McCuan is going to bring your bench seat down to STL
(next time he goes to Brad bez's shop)
Have your guy get the seat over to Jim Turners table (Turnber Brakes) and Jim will get it to McCuan to bring back.
Posted on May 2, 2014, 11:22 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
on this one, Rob. I like it, also. It's cool, you'd never run into another one on a show field. I hope it is bought by a Studebaker or WWII fanatic so it doesn't wind up in Japan to make little toyota's. Frank
Posted on Apr 29, 2014, 4:50 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Probably standard Studebaker WWII era military cab and chassis
With a 3rd party backhoe unit added to it with the cab mods. It is very rough, so hard to tell, but the cab mods. don't look super professional. So, might not have been put on the truck when new, just added later and sort of hacked on. But, basically looks like the standard Stude cab and chassis with the cab cut in half and modified.
Posted on May 2, 2014, 2:47 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
The Southern States petroleum dealer in Charlottesville, VA had a conventional backhoe mounted on the back of a Studebaker Transtar truck. Much easier to get on site to dig a hole for a tank. It was red and around a 1960 model if I recall. I think they used it up to the late '70's or early '80's and then I lost track of it. Another fuel distributor had a similar setup, but it was't on a Stude chassis.
Posted on May 2, 2014, 7:44 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
hear from you. Hope all is well with you and your family. We surely missed you at York this March.
Sorry, but I don't remember either truck in C'ville. Sure would like to be 30 years younger with the resources to bring this one back to it's second life. Reminds me of the military GMC truck we saw at the Chapter meeting when we rode in the Weasel. That was a fun day.
Best wishes and take care. Frank
Posted on May 2, 2014, 9:17 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
The Studebaker was owned by Carlton Brooks, they were on River Road to the right after crossing Free Bridge headed to town. The other was owned by Charlottesville Oil on 250 just past Farmington. I do not recall what it was mounted on, but it dug a hole for a new tank at our house on Rio Road in the mid '60's.
I was able to make York this year.
Posted on May 3, 2014, 9:47 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
It's really hard to judge a color from a chip and this came out quite a bit more turquois than planned -- I thought it would be a little darker and greener. Luckily my wife loves it which is always the most important thing! I don't think she was ever down with the original plan which was "rusty old truck."
Posted on Apr 29, 2014, 7:47 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Re: How did you get that V8 to not hit the firewall?
by Bob W
If you look closely you will note that this cab is off an M16 -- it has a deep relief in the firewall for the Commander engine. The M5 cab I used earlier needed a little notch cut out of the firewall to clear the distributor but fit just fine, otherwise. The other tricks were to run the engine without a fan and put the radiator in from the front of the support instead of the back.
Posted on Apr 30, 2014, 7:41 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Re: How did you get that V8 to not hit the firewall?
Oh, and if you got a rectangular radiator that sat entirely in front of the support you could move the engine forward a couple more inches and not make any modifications to an M5 firewall. I'd do that if I had it to do over.
Posted on Apr 30, 2014, 12:28 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Att. All STF that is going to make the swap meet this week. So. Bend is hosting a car show called Frist Fri. The Michiana Chapter has put thier best foot forward to promote this show for our beloved Studbakers. It take place this fri. up town at the Football Hall Of Fame.Come by 5:30 to register for the BIG SCREEN TV and more. Please pass the word ! Lets show So.Bend That We remember the Studebaker Employess that made our dreams come true!!Have a safe trip . Thank so much Captain Hook
Posted on Apr 28, 2014, 7:44 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
On Feb 15, John Weinrich and Don Spreeman had a discussion about driveshaft phasing. John gave a good diagram showing in and out of phase. I have an M5 with the optional 4 speed, which is equipped with the splined front driveshaft member. This allows for several degrees of variation between in and out of phase. And...you guessed it...mine is out of phase about a quarter-turn.
May I have a better understanding of: why it has to be in phase; what happens (damage done) when it is out of phase; and should I make this a red hot priority to repair?
Thanks for the input. I have worked on this truck for years, and this is the first time I have heard of the topic.
Posted on Apr 28, 2014, 7:37 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
U-joints "cog" when rotated. The cog action amount is directly proportional to the angle that the two shafts are relative to each other. So the greater the angle the more the cog action.
As the input shaft rotates the drive shaft speeds up and slows down (cogs) and the average speed is exactly the same as the input shaft. This cog action is canceled out by the second U-joint phased to do the opposite. This is why the angle of the input shaft to the drive shaft should be the same angle as the drive shaft to differential so that the cogging of the drive shaft is canceled out. Essentially the input shaft rotates smooth and constant, the drive shaft cogs, and the output shaft then rotates smooth and constant.
If the U-joints are out of phase then there will be vibration transmitted to the differential, tires, and to the road. This usually is felt and heard.
As you can imagine, it is important that the drive shaft be constructed with little mass as possible to reduce the torque loads caused by the cogging.
So you are in high gear and the engine RPM is 2,500. The drive shaft is cogging occurs twice that speed. For each 360 degree rotation of the drive shaft it speeds up, slows down, speeds up, and slows down. At that speed you would expect some sound at 83.3 Hz (5,000 cogs per minute / 60) or note E2.
My advice would be that if you don't notice any vibration or sound from the U-joints out of phase or very little then you should be OK to drive it some. I would minimize driving it and with minimum cargo until the drive shaft is phased correctly. It could be that the shaft angles are very low so the cogging is also low...
Posted on Apr 29, 2014, 7:08 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Good explanation. I build driveshafts in my shop all the time. I once had a driveshaft from a military issued Hummer and the yokes welded onto the tube were out of phase from the factory. I refused to work on it because I couldn't get a good explanation as to why. Neal
Posted on Apr 29, 2014, 9:42 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
they would be out of phase. The only exception I have seen are the U-joints at the ends of a front driving axle such as a Dana 44F. The out of phase vibration only occurs when turning. Can't be helped in that instance. How do front wheel cars get around this? They use CV Joints (constant Velocity). CV joint don't cog as the name implies. CV joints are more expensive because they require more complex machining.
Posted on Apr 29, 2014, 12:09 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
storm was about 200 miles south east of me. It was in the very corner of Mo, Ks and oklahoma. I think it missed the indian investment center that my wife and I go to that is at I 40 and hi way 400, all we have had here is wind and dry, 45 to 50 mph west wind all day, supposed to be that way all week, no rain in sight. lot of dirt in the air, thanks for checking on me
Posted on Apr 28, 2014, 7:31 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Hey guys, my starter in my 1948 M5 took a dump...worked fine to get engine started and running initially and now all I get is solenoid "click"...rebuild shop wants a ton of money to rebuild mine...heres the question, anyone out there know where I might find a working useable starter? I believe mine has been converted to 12v...its an auto lite MZ4090...thanks in advance...Greg.
Posted on Apr 28, 2014, 11:20 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124