STUDEBAKER TRUCK TALK

A forum for any messages related to Studebaker Trucks

M5 Spark Plugs

by 41M5

What Champion spark plug are folks using in an M5 Champion engine? The parts book lists J7 and the shop manual lists J9. I have some J8 plugs but their reach is only 3/8" which leaves the electrode up in the head. It seems a longer reach would be better. I believe both the J7 and J9 are also 3/8" reach. Thanks for any info posted.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 5:07 PM
from IP address 96.3.169.66


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

I have been using

by John Weinrich

the J9 and yes, I wish the reach was better. I bought longer platinum plugs but the head is not threaded all the way through. I figure I will thread it all the way the next time the head is off.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 8:16 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Has anyone tried it?

by 41M5

Has anyone tried John's suggestion of threading all the way and using longer reach plugs? If so what was the result? It sounds like a good idea.

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 6:56 PM
from IP address 96.3.169.66


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


The thinking here is

by John Weinrich

that these engines may not have very good "swirl" or that the plug is not in the ideal place for consistent reliable full ignition. Having the plug (the spark) up in a hole does not sound like a good idea. Just seems like the engineers dropped the ball. Now if some one does get the spark down into the chamber then that person needs to monitor the plug temperature via plug color to make sure the plug is not overheating or running to cold.

I did do some measurements to make sure there was no interference with the plug and block or valves. I found that the Bosch Platinum 4035 (WR8CP) would do the trick. Might be wise to add another sealing washer just for safety sake. Piston spacing is not an issue but there is one valve that does get close to the ground electrode. Maybe when installing, make sure the ground electrode is opposite the valves... Basically, I measured the depth to the valve. I then subtracted the valve lift to determine the how close to the plug ground electrode would be. It was close.

[linked image]

In my searching for a plug I could not find the idea reach. Would have been nice to find one that does not protrude into the combustion chamber but just inside the plug hole.

Posted on Jul 14, 2014, 9:17 AM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


M5 spark plugs

by Neil Wollam

I have an old Tune Up Specs sheet that covers all years of the M. It only lists Champion J7 and J9 plugs gapped at .025.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 9:38 PM
from IP address 24.113.205.153


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dual master cylinder installation

by Lee W.

Finally getting back on track with my '59 Scotsman. Along with Turner's front disc brake conversion, I opted to go with the dual master cylinder conversion also. Pretty easy to do, especially with the cab off of the frame. I've got the brakes bled and they seem to be functioning. Of course the real test will be when the truck is together and on the road.

The pressure portioning valve is in the line to the rear brakes out of the picture.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

I had to bend up the edge of the frame to provide clearance for the m/c cover. Pretty easy with a 12" crescent wrench.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 5:04 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Re: Dual master cylinder installation

by Frank from Germany

Lee, what brand and type of M/C did you use?

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 1:10 AM
from IP address 88.78.160.226


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Dual master cylinder installation

by danny

I am fabricating a similar brake master cylinder system and what are the functions of the 2 fittings in the brake line coloured blue and green
Thanks
Danny from New Zealand

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 5:09 PM
from IP address 118.93.234.106


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Residual valves

by Frank from Germany

These valves allowes the brake fluid to go only in one direction to the wheel cylinders.
I think it's because drum brake cylinders go more back then disk brake cylinders.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 6:04 PM
from IP address 88.78.160.226


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Master Cylinder and residual check valves.

by Lee W.

The master cylinder was purchased from Rock Auto several months ago and at the moment I can't remember what the exact application was. I can say for certain it was a GM vehicle, probably late seventies. I have the paperwork somewhere.
The purpose of the red and blue valves is to maintain pressure in the brake lines when you take your foot off the brake pedal, 10 pounds for the rear drum brakes and 2 pounds for the front disc brakes. This residual pressure minimizes how far the shoes and pads retract so that you don't have excessive pedal travel everytime you apply the brakes. Also plumbed into the line going to the rear brakes is an adjustable pressure valve to limit the amount of pressure going to the drums. After the truck is up and running, that pressure will be set to balance out the front and rear brakes.

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 8:17 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Master Cylinder and residual check valves.

by danny

Thanks for the info. My cylinder is a CCP MC100L and like you I have misplaced the paperwork.
We are going to run drums front and rear so will use the valves.
Thanks
Danny


Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 8:32 PM
from IP address 118.93.234.106


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


valves

by John Henne

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are using drums all around you don't need the residual valves, but you MIGHT need a different master cylinder. Cylinders for all drums have a check valve built in as all use the same pressure.

My dual cylinder came from an early '80's Corvette, I think.

Better ask Turner.

Posted on Jul 14, 2014, 7:36 AM
from IP address 67.253.46.44


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: valves

by danny

Thank you all for the input and help. Seem to find the battling away at the bottom of the world with millions of ideas and then the forum here is instant help
Thank you all and kindest regards
Danny


Posted on Jul 15, 2014, 4:49 AM
from IP address 118.93.234.106


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


check valves

by Bruce Meintjies

hello
Surprised you did not purchase the Duel Master Cylinder Kit from
Turner Breaks , best install a valve pressure adjustment valve one
for the front Disc Breaks line and one for the rear drum break line
we installed then on 59 Scotsman over six years ago
and also on the 55 Speedster and the work very well
especially in the Rain.
BRUCE M .

Posted on Jul 15, 2014, 8:48 AM
from IP address 98.230.84.139


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Why two pressure adjusting valves?

by Lee W.

Your foot on the pedal will regulate the pressure to the brake circuit.

Posted on Jul 16, 2014, 5:18 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Check your master cylinder for residual pressure valves

by Lee W.

If it doesn't incorporate any valves, then you should use the external valve.

The Studebaker factory master cylinder had a check valve installed internally which had to be removed if you went with the front disc conversion. In that scenario, it is necessary to plumb in a check valve in the line going to the rear drum brakes.

My dual master cylinder had no check valves, therefore I had to plumb in a 10# valve to the rear drum circuit and a 2# valve to the front disc circuit.

This is basically what my circuit looks like. Credit for the illustration goes to Speedway Motors.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Jul 14, 2014, 11:24 AM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


57 1 ton in PA auction today!

by Steve Dotson

http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=2121644&category=0&zip=29617&kwd=studebaker

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 12:04 AM
from IP address 108.237.81.91


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Re: 57 1 ton in PA auction today!

by Brian Dahl

Looks to be an E13 with the V8! IMHO

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 4:23 PM
from IP address 24.125.142.129


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Looks to be a nice truck.

by Lee W.



Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 5:18 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Champ has new tires!

by MW

I took the Champ in today to finally get some new bias ply tires put on it. Looks way better in my opinion. It is now more work truck-like as I prefer. They are also a little bit taller so seem to fit the wheel wells more fully and nicely. I even now like the plain wheels better too without the stainless NOS caps I got for it. I'll try those out this weekend if I have the time and see if they sharpen it up even more or actually make it look "too" dressed up.

I got it done at a local tire shop and the tires are Hercules. They are the ones they could get without special ordering something. Had them at the local supplier and were delivered to the shop the next day, installed today. They seemed like a pretty nice option form all the ones I could figure out on-line and the price was reasonable in comparison as well. Unfortunately they are of course made in China like everything these days. But, I couldn't find any verifiable actually USA made ones. There might be some out there, but my tire shop couldn't find any and I just said go ahead and get these and put them on. These set me back $611 total installed for 4. I had them re-mount one of the old radials on the spare wheel which had a really old, not safe looking bias on it.

They seem to ride nice as far as I can tell so far on the short trip home through town. No highway miles yet. It does seem to steer quite a bit more easily when not rolling, as I was hoping. It isn't at power steering level, but definitely better. So, that is a nice. It is sort of reasonable now at least.

Before with old radial tires:

[linked image]

[linked image]

Now with new bias ply tires:

[linked image]

[linked image]

[linked image]

Here also are some photos of the seat belts installed. I the belts are 3-point retractor type with chrome airplane latches that I got from this website:

http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/WSCH300.html

Those went in pretty well. The upper connection at the cab pillar was the hardest, but not that hard really. I drilled a hole in the sheet metal the size of the bolt shaft where wanted, made a thick metal strap to put behind it with a nut epoxied to it to prevent pull-through, slipped it behind the sheet metal up into the pillar cavity, epoxied that into place and when set re-installed the upholstery panel and then bolted it all together. The bolt and nut holds it all together. The epoxy is just there to keep things in place until it gets bolted. The retractor is just set down in the lower rear cab corner with a super sized flat washer underneath to prevent pull-through. The center straps are attached to the rear cab bolts, seemed a perfect placement. Works pretty well and looks nice.

[linked image]

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 9:47 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

character

by Bob Ctruse

A tire looks like a tire , but it is amazing how the subtle little visual differences between a bias ply and a radial can change the whole visual character of a truck . Your Champ looks like it has stepped a little deeper into the 'work truck' segment . Now sideboards , maybe , not just on the sides , but also across the rear window , modified slightly for rear view . ..................Bob...............

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 11:52 PM
from IP address 76.104.172.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


spelling

by Bob Cruse

Gee , it looks like I misspelled my own name . ....Bob Cruse.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 11:58 PM
from IP address 76.104.172.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


I like the looks

by Lee W.

My '55 is about due for new tires and I'm thinking of going to bias-ply.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 12:33 AM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Looks great

by 62champ

There is something to be said about just plain painted wheels and no caps - very utilitarian. Bet those rear tires are going to talk pretty good to - but with twin traction - you could hardly get that thing stuck if you had enough weight in the back.

[linked image]

What kind of tire pressure do you currently have in them? Reason I ask is because bias tires usually do not need near the pressure radials do. My operators guide calls for 26 lbs - so I have that in the front and then I do what the car guide says and put four pounds less in the rear (my '60 Lark guide calls for 24 lbs in the front and 20 lbs in the rear) - unless the truck has a load in it - then the rears go to 26 as well.

Good luck and thanks for posting - always love pics.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 8:48 AM
from IP address 98.19.157.81


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


tires (bias ply)

by jackb

......best look for a truck. Unless you're rodding or driving many, many miles in your truck....original (original looking) tires really bring you back.....My new-to-me '53 came with 4 brand new 6.50 x 16 6-ply Mexican tires.....I will be working in this truck.....that's why I bought it.....

Posted on Jul 16, 2014, 9:18 AM
from IP address 71.174.48.214


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Champ has new tires!

by Mason

They sure look great, and thats the way it was back in the day,mud grips on the back. I put bias ply white walls on my SuperLark a few years back. Thats the way it was done on the Halibrands, look at the roadtests, Motor Trend, Hot Rod magazine.
I hesitate to bring this up, but I drove my friends Auburn speedster, he put 16" radials on it, much to my surprize, and it drove so much better, I'm considering doing it too... For some reason I do not find the stock 17" bias plys to drive bad on my 33.
The tires on my E 5 are 45 years old, and are working fine. The best thing I did to it for driveability was balance the brake drums, and balance the wheels on the oldest hi speed balancer I could find in my area. She runs 80 mph very smoothly.

Posted on Jul 21, 2014, 4:58 PM
from IP address 75.34.193.52


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Interior paint for C cab

by David J

I would like to find a paint match for the light brown color on the interior details.
(Glove box). Also, what color do I paint my rims for a 1949 1/2 ton pickup? Thanks, David

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:21 PM
from IP address 67.142.163.25


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

49 had body color wheels

by vern



Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:46 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: 49 had body color wheels

by 2R5

In a Turning Wheels feature article written by Fred Fox he says that all early R series had red wheels except for the clover green trucks and they had body color wheels.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 10:29 PM
from IP address 50.70.16.254


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


wheels

by vern

going by pickups I have had in salvage over the last 40 yrs, had yellow 49 with yellow wheels, dark blue with dark blue wheels, green with green wheels 50 thru 53 had red, I don't think they had been painted

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 12:17 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


I concur

by Zane

Early if not all '49 trucks had body colored wheels. They were then painted red from there on out on R series trucks I believe.

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 1:51 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Paint codes

by Jim Stengl

Gary Ash has the correct paint codes listed under "reference data" in his web site along with a whole lot of other usefull info. The chart lists codes and combinations for all trucks. A big thanks to Gary for all this good stuff.

Jim Stengl

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 7:43 AM
from IP address 70.194.132.41


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Wheel color

by 2R5

Here is a quote from a Fred Fox feature article from TWs , June 1985 . Fred does a lot of research on his articles and usually is 100 % correct.


" As shown in the paint colors box , color options were changed throughout the R's production span from mid - 1948 through 1953 . Early models had body color interiors with light brown accent panels , but other accent colors were offered in later years. Some 1/2 ton wheels had pin striping and some did not. Normally , for the domestic market , Chrome Yellow and Clover Green models had body color wheels , while all others came with Cherokee Red wheels. "

....this is found on page 6 of the mentioned TW's



Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 10:09 AM
from IP address 50.70.16.254


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


wheels

by vern

most 16 in wheels had strip, not seen 15 in with strip, must not be enough room around hub cap. seen stuff over the years that they say did not happen , but did. neighbor had new 49 2 R 16 in late 48 that had no hood ornament and no hole to mount it. also had lite color M insturment panel and solid body color front bumper.

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 8:37 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: wheels

by 2R5

Vern , you are correct about early R's having no hood ornaments , Fred Fox noted that as well as the one color bumpers on early ones.

Posted on Jul 14, 2014, 12:18 PM
from IP address 50.70.16.254


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Interior paint color

by Jim Beadle

David I used KRYLON ColorMaster KHAKI. I got this paint from Walmart. My truck was judged at the meet in Dover and I was not Marked Off for this paint. If you need the darker tan color, they have it and it is called Saddle Tan, not prefect but very close. Good Luck. Jim

Posted on Jul 16, 2014, 7:26 PM
from IP address 184.6.18.45


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


interior color

by David J

Thank you for the information Jim. I was looking for the same thing myself. We had a great time at the Dover meet.

Posted on Jul 18, 2014, 8:16 PM
from IP address 67.142.163.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Here's a good looking work truck....

by Lee W.


http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/4563300590.html

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 5:04 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Uh, oh!

by MW

I like it and it isn't ridiculously over priced either. The $99 seems a bit pushing it though. happy.gif

That color combo seems familiar. Might make a nice pair to the one I have.

The 16's actually kind of seem too tall for that truck. I think 15's might be better.

Speaking of, I'm sitting here at the shop right now waiting on the new rubber to be put on it my new Champ. I'll post picts this weekend once I get that set and the caps on. I broke down and finally put the mirrors on the door, drilled the holes, etc. Looks pretty good, but still want to paint the mounting bracket to match the body color. Not sure the white on those is the way to go.

I got the 3-point seat belts in too, that turned out well.

Still smoking some on startup and drips in various places. Power seems to be improving some, but still not quite what I would expect. But I'll keep working on that I guess, put some more miles on it and see what happens.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 6:10 PM
from IP address 70.211.76.41


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Wrong Coast........

by Jim Sinclair

or that baby would be in my driveway this weekend.happy.gif JS

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:00 PM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Wrong Coast........

by Ted

Looks like the twin to the one I have for sale.

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 11:11 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Anybody have a '57 C-cab they could look at quick?

by Norman

Howdy all,

Put the new side glass in the passenger door but I'm running into clearance issues especially at the front of the whiskers.

My truck came with a smooth chrome divider on the drivers side, a grooved one in the passenger side, and another smooth one behind the seat. I installed the new glass with the grooved one since it was installed in the door already, but the whiskers aren't having it, and something on the outside front of the window opening as scraping the divider severely. I don't feel like ruining the new whiskers and the divider felt and putting my self a week or two behind.

Here is a pic of the two dividers, the grooved one is installed. Which one is correct for a 57?

[linked image]

Can anybody point me in the right direction?

Norm

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 1:21 PM
from IP address 67.5.105.233


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

57 C-Cab

by Mark Thompson

I have an 57 C-Cab , but I wont be home for a week or two. but if memory is right I vote for the smooth divider.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 6:53 PM
from IP address 70.197.167.1


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


divider

by vern

they changed from rib type to smooth in 57 , { I think it was then } they inter change with no problem

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:42 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


'57 c-cab

by Dave M

I have one (Jan,5,57) and it has the smooth ones.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 9:10 AM
from IP address 172.3.146.129


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Anybody have a '57 C-cab they could look at quick?

by Norman

Thanks to all, I'm going to pull the grooved one and use the smooth one so both sides match.

Bummer is I'll need to find new rivets, repair the felt divider seal, and get some new window tape. I measured the inside and outside dimensions where the divider meets the door behind the vent and the right one is 3/8" narrow so I'm going to "clearance" it with a wood wedge. Should take care of the rubbing issues!

Thanks again...

Norm

While I'm at it, I'm going to pull the window guides, clean and refurbish them. Anybody found a suitable replacement for the inside and outside leather washers? I'm thinking nylon or neoprene .....

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 6:30 PM
from IP address 67.5.105.233


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Window guide washers

by Ingvar Vik

I used some thick leather that i soaked in neatsfoot oil and cut to fit. That was in 1976 and the window has slid up & down faithfully till sbout a year ago. Gonna make some new washers,



Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 10:42 PM
from IP address 75.175.145.140


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Ingvar it's great to see you here!

by Zane

I always like to hear what you have to say!

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 6:58 PM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


E-Bay listing ?

by Lee W.

Not sure what this is about. Isn't this a model number for a four-wheel drive truck ?
Obviously the pictures are something else. Pretty bizarre if you go to the seller's store.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-3E12D-Base-ebay-mobile-qa-0515-do-not-buy-veh-/121383483974?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c4304fa46&item=121383483974&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 12:22 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Best looking Studebaker file cabinet I've ever seen.

by MW

Everyone back off, I'm getting this one! Just need to check my funds first before I do the BIN. happy.gif

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 12:55 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


studebaker file cabnet

by vern

that is the least amount of rust I ever seen on a studebaker

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:39 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Test Posted with eBay Mobile listing said do not buy.

by Mark Thompson



Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 1:11 PM
from IP address 70.197.179.229


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


As you, Lee W., the ad...

by Frank Drumheller

doesn't make a lot of sense. The so-called serial number listed is NOT a serial (chassis) number for a Studebaker truck of any model.

In 1958, there were 38 model 3E12D 4X4 trucks manufactured. Of this production, 24 of the 38 were delivered to Mexico City.
There has to be a story in that fact alone. Serial numbers for the production of the 4X4's ran from-
E12D-3629 to E12D-3798 (this range also included non-4X4 trucks-regular E12 models).

Strange ad, it's a wonder eBay allowed such a mess to be listed. No profit in this ad!!

Frank

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 5:18 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


mexico

by Mark Thompson

First time I heard of 4x4 studes in Mexico!

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 10:24 PM
from IP address 70.197.181.197


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Mexico 4X4's....

by Frank Drumheller

I don't know, but I suspect this group of 4X4's were built under government contract. The 24 trucks were built in consecutive order with consecutive serial numbers. The trucks were built between 12/24/57 and 2/1/58. All were shipped to Mexico City in CKD (Crated Knock-Down) condition (fully assembled in Mexico). I suspect these were purchased by the Mexican government for military use or other government use. I doubt seriously if any Mexican peon had a chance to buy one of these from his local Studebaker dealer.

Again, this is conjecture on my part from data collected at the factory. I, too, wonder what became of this fleet!

Frank

Posted on Jul 14, 2014, 8:54 AM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Studebaker Fleets and your truck history?

by Zane

I was wondering how many of you know of companies that owned a fleet of Studebaker trucks back in the day? I am working on a project and would really like to know the history of these companies and pictures would be even better!

I remember seeing pics of the film company in Colorado that had a fleet. I am sure there were plenty of them near South Bend.

Also, I am looking for people who can trace the history of their truck back to when it was new. I am trying to capture and record the history of our old trucks. Even if you don't know the whole history but know the majority of it, I am interested in the story.

If you can please help, it would be much appreciated!

Please feel free to email me at:

studedude59 at comcast dot net

Thank you!

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 2:27 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Re: Studebaker Fleets and your truck history?

by Mark Thompson

My Grandpa had a fleet of trucks when he was costume combining through the west . From Texas up to Montana in the late 50's.









[linked image]

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:12 AM
from IP address 70.197.176.241


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


fleets

by vern

In the early 50s, my dad , uncle and neighbor custom cut from Oklahoma to South Dakota and farmed in South Dakota. they had two 49 R 16s a 53 R 16 a 51 R5 and later a 53 R6, mom followed along with my sister, brother and me in a 50 champion Regal deluxe, not sure I can find any pictures

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 10:13 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: fleets

by Zane

Vern, could you send me an email as well? I am being needy now! Thank you sir!

studedude59 at comcast dot net

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 1:46 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Mark I really don't want to seem ignorant

by Peter

as I Live in the City. What does the word "Costume" have to do with cutting products in a field.
By the way they were a nice looking batch of trucks and now we all know where you got the feel for Studebaker PU's.
Peter

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 4:46 PM
from IP address 174.1.229.120


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


"Costume"

by Mark Thompson

Peter, I wrote "Costume" because i did not proof read my message. I meant to write "custom" . Custom Combine work is cutting other farmers crops as they ripen. The farther north you go the later in the year Crops ripen. enabling you to travel north as the fields ripen.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 6:41 PM
from IP address 70.197.167.1


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Studebaker Fleets and your truck history?

by Zane

Mark could you send me an email? I would like to talk to you more about this. Thanks, Zane.

studedude59 at comcast dot net

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 1:42 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Hobson Dairy in Anderson, California

by Lee W.

Family operated dairy ran Studebaker pick ups (R series) for local delivery in the area. The dairy had been dormant for years when the heirs decided to auction everything off (2008). This included a workshop with miscellaneous Studebaker odds and ends, two complete trucks, and a boneyard up on the hill with probably a dozen trucks in various stages of being parted out. Bob and I attended the auction and I wish could re-live that day, I would've come out of there with a lot more stuff.
Here's a couple of photos.....

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]


[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 12:09 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Definitely looks like they got some good use out of those trucks.

by MW

Nice that they didn't just send them to the scrappers either, at least I hope that isn't what happened to them.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 12:51 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


There was a fleet at a paving company in Michigan I think

by George o

There was 3 dump trucks 2 63's consecutive vin numbers
There was 1 64 dump that is now a road tractor
There was a 55 truck that had a tank for tar I believe
And there was a 57 or 58 truck that I forget its purpose

All I think went to different homes. Hopefully the consecutive number trucks stayed together

Take care

George o

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 12:03 AM
from IP address 70.174.119.102


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Bell Telephone Co.

by Jim Mackey

Remember the Bell Telephone service trucks.

Jim

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 3:35 PM
from IP address 67.232.77.225


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Bell Telephone Co.

by Lee W.

This truck was bought by Bob a few years back for parts. The seller told us that it was a Bell Telephone truck with a Jeep type box on the back. The paint on the back of the cab would seem to support this. Also, the data plate on the cab has numbers that I don't recognize as Studebaker numbers.

[IMG][linked image][/IMG]

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 9:16 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


41 Phone Truck

by Junkyarddog

I drove a 41 International Phone truck .It had a button on the dash you'd push and a bell would ring like a phone ring from under the hood .


Posted on Jul 18, 2014, 5:48 PM
from IP address 204.195.57.146


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Bell Telephone Co.

by Zane

Thank you Jim! I forgot about them, and I have one sitting in dads shop!

Posted on Jul 13, 2014, 1:47 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


zane give me a call

by Mark Thompson

Seven 1 five 409 9 six 72

Posted on Jul 17, 2014, 9:29 PM
from IP address 70.197.168.124


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dover STF Picture (both versions)

by John Weinrich

[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]


Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 5:34 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Thanks for posting John, and........

by Jim Sinclair

Kevin and Martha Studebaker for the camera. Glad we got both shots posted, and everyone's name.
Jim

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 7:45 PM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


I'm so glad...

by Frank Drumheller

Nancy Pfahler was able to make the second photo! But what happened to Bob Coolidge? Did he leave for Florida? No, Bert and Bill are still in the photo. Oh! I know. Frank

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 9:34 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Anybody coming to Nashville in October?

by Ronnie

Need transportation for a one-piece windshield from South Bend to Nashville....
Willing to pay a decent rate.

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 11:45 AM
from IP address 146.217.200.214


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

fogot contact info..

by Ronnie

615.Five 66. Nine Zero 89...
or ronnie.corbin AT genmills DOT com replace AT with @ and DOT with .

Keeps away the spammers..

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 11:54 AM
from IP address 146.217.200.214


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Big truck front axle

by Skip Lackie

I inherited a complete big truck (presumably E40 and 45) I beam front axle, but have lost my storage. It's free to anyone who can pick it up in northern Maryland, near I-70. Complete, drum to drum.

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 7:43 AM
from IP address 76.100.243.102


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

big truck front axle

by Jack

Hello Skip,

I am in Virginia and have a 1962 7E40. I rebuilt my front brakes a couple of years ago, and one of my brake drums had to be turned to the limit. My truck build sheet indicates HD front axle and HD brakes. The brakes are hydraulic, not air. Evidently the HD front axle has the forging # embossed on the front side of the axle. Some axles had a metal ID plate attached to the axle. My front brakes have dual wheel cylinders. I could use brake drums, if it appears that your axle has HD brakes. It appears from the parts manual that the hub and drum part # would be 1691107. Thanks for posting this item. I would be glad to take the entire axle if the brake drums would work. Jack

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 9:29 PM
from IP address 173.67.235.109


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: big truck front axle

by Skip Lackie

The forging number on the give-away truck axle is 106471 followed by an emblem and the number 1. There's no ID plate. By contrast, the forging number on my 4E40 is 107677 emblem 1. My 4E does not have the HD brakes, though I think all E40 and 45 had two wheel cylinders per drum. Not sure the above helps you.

lackie at erols dot com

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 8:02 PM
from IP address 76.100.243.102


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: big truck front axle

by Jim Mackey

Nice offer Skip, I could use a spare for my 7E45E, but too far for me. Prosser, Wa.

Posted on Jul 12, 2014, 3:33 PM
from IP address 67.232.77.225


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


R floor mats

by vern

talked to Ed Reynolds at Dover, he said the machine is getting fixed to make more mats for R with 3 spd

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:03 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Awsome

by chicodave

I was kind of bummed when I heard the machine was broken and too expensive to fix. Nice to here its getting fixed. I wont procrastinate in purchasing when they become available again.

-Dave

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:48 PM
from IP address 166.147.72.164


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Any chance on c-cab?

by Norman

????????

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 4:01 PM
from IP address 67.5.105.233


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


An R is a C-cab

by MW

But just to be 100% clear, these mats are shaped specifically for the column shift trucks. The trans. cover for the floor shift trucks is slightly taller I think as well as has the cut-out for the shifter obviously. So, these mats might be able to be modified a little to work in a floor shift C-cab, but I'm not sure myself personally. Maybe someone else can chime in on that.

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 4:55 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


mat

by vern

only with 3 spd, tunnel to tall with 4 spd

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 5:24 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


contact info on mats

by Plym_46

Could post the contact info for the source of these mats. Many of us are not on a name basis with the vendor. My floor will thank you.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 12:48 AM
from IP address 141.0.8.139


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


re:contact

by Al Freese

The Ed Reynolds that Vern mentioned is the owner of Studebaker International. You should be able to get the necessary info on availablility from them with a phone call. Number is listed in the Turning Wheels magazine assuming you are a member of SDC.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 10:13 AM
from IP address 75.146.133.206


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


studebaker int will have them. 317 462 3124

by vern



Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 10:15 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Talked to SI This Afternoon....

by Norman

Absolutely Positively Might make them soon, should be ready to ship in 2-3 months.

Price is up to 199 bux, if you order one and get "back-order" status it'll hold the price from increasing once the machine costs get figured in.

FWIW, Norm

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 4:53 PM
from IP address 67.5.105.233


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Talked to SI This Afternoon....

by Plym_46

thanks for the info

Posted on Jul 18, 2014, 10:11 AM
from IP address 141.0.8.139


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


49 1/2 ton hood springs?

by Bob Dye

Should there be hood springs on my 1949 pickup? I have just purchased and not got the truck home yet but am gathering parts. thanks!

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 7:26 PM
from IP address 98.125.157.214


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

springs

by vern

there are hood springs on the hood hinge to pull it down on to the cowl, prop rod to hold hood up

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:01 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Yes

by Phil Birkeland

I got mine from SI. Phil.

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 12:44 AM
from IP address 76.121.79.0


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Get the manuals on CD from SI or other vendor

by Norm

These will be invaluable for working on the truck. You could look up the hood springs part numbers. They used to be available new from SI.

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 1:28 AM
from IP address 96.39.194.95


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Custom '47 Stude

by John Kruse

These pictures come from Bill Fowler of Solo Speed Shop...thanks Bill!

Bill sold this truck to a friend in OH, Ron Ernsberger. Ron recently built it with a healthy Cummings Diesel! CQQL old truck!

photo photo3.jpg

photo photo2.jpg

photo photo1.jpg

photo photo4.jpg

photo photo5.jpg

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 2:38 PM
from IP address 162.18.172.11


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Very Cool

by Thomas

Very Cool Truck! Love the Detroit Diesel shoe horned under the hood!! George Strait would love it!

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 3:50 PM
from IP address 207.237.174.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Awesome! Looks like

by John Weinrich

a huge chrome Boa snake under that hood.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 7:13 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Custom '47 Stude

by Anonymous

Nice Plates

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 11:17 AM
from IP address 69.89.240.62


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Coupe Express on E-Bay

by Lee W.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-Coupe-Express-J-5-1937-Studebaker-J-5-Coupe-Express-California-Barn-Find-Original-Paint-/371097686697?forcerrptr=true&hash=item56672552a9&item=371097686697&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 12:57 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Me like!

by John Weinrich



Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 1:58 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Is very nice!

by MW

Is already too rich for my blood and certainly will be by the time this one is over. But, a very nice looking original truck. That rust repair in the bed and tailgate shouldn't be too hard for a good metal person. I'd probably fix that up, clean it up a bit here and there and get it running well and safely and drive it most as a survivor truck. Only fix what is needed and leave it alone as much as possible otherwise. Looks like it would clean up pretty nicely with a bit of elbow grease and careful attention to detail.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 2:16 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Coupe Express on E-Bay

by looks weird with...

the rear wheels NOT centered in the fender openings....
surely it don't look that bad original??

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 2:47 PM
from IP address 108.209.204.34


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Rear Wheels!

by Bill Fowler / Solo Speed Shop

I have a 39 Coupe Express & Yes that's the way they look! His looks a little bad as chunk out of fender & fender bent! But They did look like wheel forward & could have been centered better! But Coupe Express! Nice rare trucks! I have a 39 It could be bought if UR looking for a 39 Tks Bill

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 3:38 PM
from IP address 23.243.60.33


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


39 xpress

by john

I may have a line on a 37 dually "high boy" tow truck its original in southern us and in need of some love. Cable hand crank operated tow hook. Is your express all ready done and do you have a price in mind. Would have loved to been there to see how you jammed that Cummins into an m series, just curious why only one stack? Any interest in the tow truck? Cash or trade?? Regards John


Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 9:02 PM
from IP address 107.19.176.35


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


EXPRESS

by Bill Fowler / Solo Speed Shop

Hey John!
First off I would love to take the credit on the Stude / Cummings build but I sold Ron a bone stock truck from CA w/ tons of patina & the work was done by his crew at old Iron Works in OH they are very talented!

39 Coupe Express Orig CA trk from Riverside CA was in a barn for 40 years! Its CQQL I had to have it but after 3 years & 24 other Cars & Trucks It could use a new owner I paid 25K for it & did a lot of tune up work like radiator rebuilt w/ orig tanks 4 Core (900.00) Carb wires Blah Blah Blah! Body in real nice shape Needs interior! Runs & Drives Could use Brakes rebuilt! Nice orig Vin tag most are rusted off current CA title & reg! Just a nice express not a restored orig truck! Price make me offer over 25K If interested I don't do pics on this site my buddy John K does that for me Email me at mtnmanbf@aol.com or (818) 517-3907 Tks! Bill Tow Truck Send me Pics!

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:07 PM
from IP address 104.34.115.19


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


express

by john

I drive long haul and have a BBQ trailer that I cater with on the weekends, I would love an express but don't think I can make you an offer on yours budgetary issues, distance and exchange rate. Although I know I will never find one in Canada without cancer on the bottom 18inches of metal and no interiour will be left, if there is a barn find left up here. Once I secure the tow truck I will email you pictures directly I haven't figured out how to post anything more then words here. Reguards John
FYI I have a number for the tow truck but it may be 6 monthes before I can get there to pay for it and get it home, the nice part of not being in a hurry is someone else pays youwhile you bring your toys home lol


Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 11:26 PM
from IP address 64.65.216.63


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Tow truck.

by 289stude

I may be interested in the tow truck please call me at 8I4 72O 4I47

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 12:10 PM
from IP address 24.144.171.31


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Could be a 4BT?

by Bish

Smaller engine , 4 cyl vs. a 6.

Bish

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 7:24 PM
from IP address 174.62.190.226


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Vern sent you an email

by Beth Marler

Hi Vern,

I sent you two emails asking about head light buckets.

Regards,

Beth

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 11:33 AM
from IP address 137.183.232.25


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

got last one

by vern

I don't know what happen to first. had to be something I didn't do

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 12:32 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Windshield trim clips

by Joe Diggle

The two little clips that fit at the top and bottom of my inside window molding/trim went missing. Part # 282910P ad 282911p (1950 C-cab)
anyone know a source where I can find these?


thanks

Joe Diggle


Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:35 AM
from IP address 71.113.6.81


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

need gas tank

by E J Finn

I need to replace the gas tank on my 1953 Studebaker 3/4 ton pickup, R2-11 but haven't been able to locate one through an internet search. Would it be possible to substitute the gas tank from another make of truck? Any ideas out there?
Thanks--
EJF

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 11:48 PM
from IP address 184.23.136.92


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Maybe not a big help but

by Frank from Germany

I've got a gas tank from 607 Mercedes Benz, I think a late 80's model pickup truck in my 53 2R11.

[linked image]

[linked image]



Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 12:03 AM
from IP address 80.149.83.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Nice retrofit, does that

by John Weinrich

U-joint have to much grease or is it just happy to see me?

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 5:24 AM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Is that an in-tank electric fuel pump?

by Lee W.



Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 11:14 AM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Size?

by Norm

How many gallons is the Mercedes tank? Could you use the stock gage?

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 11:36 AM
from IP address 96.39.194.95


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Size

by Frank from Germany

If I'm not wrong it's a 20 gal tank, don't know if the original gas sending unit will fit, the original got a special
Bayonet catch.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 12:24 PM
from IP address 88.77.69.234


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


There can't be too much grease.....

by Frank from Germany

I think that flow around and is now a rots protection......... happy.gif

That is not a electric fuel pump, it's the Mercedes gas gauge sending unit with a pipe for the fuel line to the original fuel pump.
There is also a connection to a second fuel line if there is a return line needed.
Original the gas tank comes from a Diesel.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 12:21 PM
from IP address 88.77.69.234


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Looks like a real good fit.

by MW

Nice clean job on the adaptor plate too. Does the fuel filler tube line up well or how did you deal with that?

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 2:13 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Filler Neck

by Frank from Germany

Michael, I used a special hose that is ok for fuel, the diameter fits perfect to the original filler neck.

Have fun
Frank

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 12:02 AM
from IP address 80.149.83.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


gas tank

by vern

I have three tanks. email vern@nvt.net

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 1:17 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: need gas tank

by Ted

I have two of them on the shelf ready to ship. Write me at studepickups at optonline.net.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:01 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


2R5 Gas Tank

by Greg

I have a tank from a 1/2 ton that needs a little repair. You could send it to "gastank renu" and be good to go.

Posted on Jul 16, 2014, 12:06 PM
from IP address 68.99.124.150


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Coolant Check Valve?

by Thomas

Can anyone identify this part? I believe it is an engine coolant check value. It looks original (1955 E12 V8) Any ideas on a replacement?
[linked image]

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 11:01 PM
from IP address 24.47.120.56


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

It's an electric water/block heater

by jack vines

My '55 E12 had one just like it. Anyone know if it was a factory option, dealer-installed or aftermarket.

IIRC, the heater valve had to be in the correct position for it to circulate the water.

jack vines

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 8:59 AM
from IP address 67.171.58.56


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Block heater

by Jim Stengl

We called them tank heaters. As far as I remember our's were aftermarket, all dealer installed , none came from the factory.

Jim

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 2:54 PM
from IP address 70.194.137.168


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Block Heater

by Thomas

Wow, very cool. I wonder if I should plug it in???? Thanks everyone for the help!

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 3:37 PM
from IP address 207.237.174.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


I bought a

by John Weinrich

heater but have not installed it yet. It should connect to the block were you would drain the block and the other end to a "T" on the heater hose. It relies on convection to circulate. Just plug it in and hour before you drive and the engine will be all warm.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 7:16 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Block heaters are basic where it gets cold

by Peter

especially Northern Canada. they were used to keep engine warm but to stop the water from freezing in the Rad, water lines such as heater, oil, antifreeze.
Peter

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 9:36 PM
from IP address 174.1.229.120


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


I've got a brand new one on the shelf

by jack vines

My truck won't be driven in the winter, so if anyone is that brave, I'll make you a deal on one.

jack vines

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 10:47 PM
from IP address 67.171.58.56


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Jack Remember that in the 40's/ 50's no one drove anything but

by Peter

your truck/car in the winter especially if you lived way out in the boonies one had to go for Groceries or a beer now and again so it for sure was driven in the winter in those days. Only time I drove my Champ in the winter was when I knew there was no salt on the roads which where we live is pretty rare but I did use it as the truck was a workhorse for us.
Peter

Posted on Jul 10, 2014, 1:57 AM
from IP address 174.1.229.120


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


How I learned too much STP and Champion sixes were a bad thing

by jack vines

I learned about block heaters/tank heaters/oil pan heaters the hard way. As are they all, my Champion six had worn lifter bores, worn valve guides and from this low oil pressure and high oil consumption. As a teenage kid with no experience and less money, the recommended fix was STP. Some's good, so more's better. It did slightly lessen oil consumption and slightly increase oil pressure. However, first time the garage temperature dropped below freezing, that can-o-crap sludge was so thick, the engine wouldn't turn over.

I had to buy one of those wand-type dipstick heaters to warm the oil enough to start the engine and get it hot enough to drain the crappage.

Never used STP again. Since that time, anyone comes near my engine with that junk and I'd pick up a ball peen hammer to him.

So scarred by that experience, I've never owned another Champion-engine Stude.

jack vines

Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 5:20 PM
from IP address 67.171.58.56


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


On the road again

by studemaker

[linked image]
Finally got the '59 Deluxe back on the road again. She had a water pump go out over a year ago, and with the passing of my mother, and the unexpected passing of my brother a couple of months later, and taking care of probates, she has been put away until a couple of days ago, when I finally got around to replacing it. The worn pump had been changed just a few years back when I did a refresh of the engine bay and engine, and it probably had less than 500 miles on it since then. Yet, the bearing was completely shot.
In replacing it, I noticed that the outside edges of the vanes of the pump had been dragging on the back of the manifold housing, and had considerable wear. I had used a new gasket when it was replaced, and it spun freely when installed, so am unsure why it would have not had sufficient spacing in the housing. Just a bad bearing, bad casting from that time? I thought of doubling the gaskets for a safety this time, but am afraid of loosing pump efficiency. What say ye...Studebaker Truck Sages, any ideas why it was dragging?

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 9:37 PM
from IP address 216.228.41.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

draging

by Mark Thompson

I believe the water pump vane dragging was done after beaning failure.

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 10:15 PM
from IP address 70.197.172.18


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: On the road again

by Ted

From your description I would agree with Mark.

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 10:26 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Interesting......

by studemaker

If you believe the bearing was the root cause, any thoughts on why it would fail in less than 500 miles?
I had no leaks so would assume that the seals were still intact on the pump. I will tear it down today and take a closer look, but thought I would ask what you think.
Over tensioning on the belt, just a bad bearing, perhaps a known weak point on Studebaker V8's, or perhaps just poorly made parts?
Thanks for the input everyone, just trying to troubleshoot it, so I don't have to keep forking out the cash for new water pumps within such short mileage again.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 1:27 PM
from IP address 216.228.41.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Interesting......

by Ted

You may find more information when you take it down. If the pump sat on the shelf for 50 years the grease inside was likely dry and had little lubricant in it.
When purchasing a new pump go with the Avanti pump as they are supposed to have a heavy duty bearing.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 9:57 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Untitled

by Ted

For those of us who are in the Northeast there is a large show in Southbury, Connecticut, on September 21 featuring Studebakers. This one is close enough for me that I am hard pressed to miss it. This is an invitation to all who are close to drive your cars or trucks to the show. If I can find enough drivers I will be taking 3 trucks. Hope you can make it too.

[linked image]

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 10:43 AM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Still looking for two stock 16" wheels for a 1952 2r5

by Eric

If anyone has any for sale it would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!


Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 1:34 AM
from IP address 198.228.216.30


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Re: Still looking for two stock 16" wheels for a 1952 2r5

by Steve Dotson

I have an earlier Stude wheel. It will bolt up, look and fit the same but the hubcap clips are different. I THINK the cap itself still fits. In Greenville, SC- how about $20 if it will help you. Steve

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 2:41 PM
from IP address 108.237.81.91


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks

by Eric

I would like to keep it all original but if I can't find any I will contact you. Thank you very much for the offer tho!

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 1:25 AM
from IP address 75.140.8.79


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Winch PTO Design

by John Weinrich

Any one here design a PTO system for a front mounted winch? This is what I came up with. I'm an electrical engineer not a mechanical engineer but I have worked with them a good bit in the last 30+ years and have picked up some principles I believe. The PTO output shaft faces toward the back of the truck so I used sprockets and chain to reverse the direction. I think two pillow blocks are needed to provide stability and because the shaft projects rearward about a foot I added a strut to the frame rail. The PTO can be reversed so that the output shaft points forward but there is little room for a sprocket and the bell housing is in the way for the shaft or a U-joint.

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 5:58 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Re: Winch PTO Design

by JeffR

Did some surfin'...

http://www.cj3apage.com/index/My_1950/installing_a_pto_winch.htm

http://www.willystech.com/faqs/Breakout/OverdrivesPTOsWenches.html

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/installing-a-factory-pto-winch.130472/

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=280068



Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 9:30 PM
from IP address 204.116.60.142


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Good stuff, thanks

by John Weinrich



Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 9:58 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


OK so who's the younger guy in the back??

by David Orth



Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 11:26 PM
from IP address 174.21.58.126


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Mine was the same

by Zane

The PTO on my 1959 4x4 needed to actually switch sides of the truck to get the PTO driveshaft up to the winch without hitting any of the steering mechanism.

There was a driveshaft coming out of the pto on the drivers side going rearward to a welded in crossmember with 2 sprockets. Each sprocket had a pillow block bearing on each side of it and a roller chain going from the drivers side to the passenger side. Then there was another driveshaft going to the front of the truck to the winch.

I hope this makes sense. I don't know how to do the fancy animation!

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 2:46 AM
from IP address 71.237.154.170


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Yes, makes sense

by John Weinrich

There are basically two types of PTOs out there. One is like mine that attaches to the inspection plate (also called the PTO port) on the side of the transmission and the other either attaches to the transfer case or on the rear of the transmission. The later is the best as you can use and the gears of the transmission (including reverse ( happy.gif ) to drive the PTO. Many of the later versions come off the drivers side. Although mine is on the passenger side there is little room to connect the shaft directly to the PTO so that is why I'm using the sprockets/chain to offset the shaft.

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 6:19 AM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Have you thought of an electric winch?

by Lee W.

Lot less moving parts.

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 11:51 AM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


MPH is 6 Volt... Also I have

by John Weinrich

always wanted a PTO winch. I had a Warn 8,000lb electric on my F250 4x4 years ago and it was great. I learned that it was wise to add a second battery isolated from the normal battery. That Warn winch was used mostly for recovery out here in the VA mud when I was a wild off-roader. This new winch will be used less for recovery and more for pulling logs and rock at our new place in OR.

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 12:10 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dover STF Group Picture

by John Weinrich


[linked image]


Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 5:12 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

What a fine lookin' bunch........

by Jim Sinclair

of Farmers. Thanks for posting John! Jim

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 7:25 PM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dover STF photo....

by Frank Drumheller

was supplied by Kevin and Martha Studebaker (the young couple kneeling, front row-he with the beige shirt, she in the red/white striped pull-over. Thanks to John Weinrich (standing behind Martha) for posting this photo. Thanks to Jim Sinclair for making it all happen (where's Jim?)

There's only 28 of the 39 who were at the dinner the evening before. Most of the absentees were prepping and moving their show cars to the field long before 9:00 AM.

There's also a story about the water wagon/street sprayer. I'll do that on another stream.

With help, maybe we can ID the entire group.

Frank

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 8:18 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


First stab

by John Weinrich

Frank and all, I can update this so everybody can put faces to the names. Just post (or email me) a name to the number and I'll update the picture. jsweinrich at verizon dot net

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 9:35 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


John, more names sent via email

by Jim Sinclair

Thanks. JS

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 6:57 AM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks, just need 4 more

by John Weinrich



Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 9:37 AM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


John, I received a note...

by Frank Drumheller

that the #1 lady to the extreme left is Janice Barrick. Husband Bob is not in the photo and that's why I didn't recognize her.
Bob must probably was already at the show field. Hopefully that ID's everyone in the photo. Thanks, John, for your work. I wish I could make my computer do what you do with yours!!

Frank

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 5:06 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Names for the photo...

by Frank Drumheller

I may have the names mixed up here, but..
#5- Bob Coolidge

#16- Bert Coolidge

#18- Bill Coolidge

Sorry, I do not recognize #1.

I met Bob Coolidge, I think, at the last International Meet in South Bend. Really nice Studebaker Truck Farmer with a beautiful truck (1960 5E40). Bob is from Florida, Bert is from Tennessee and owns a 1964 Champ. Young Bill- I don't know!! It was a pleasure having the brothers with us at Dover.

Thanks, again, John, for all you do for the STF.

Frank

PS- John, how about reconsideration of your planned move to the other coast!! We feel you're more important for the right coast! F

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 1:37 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Could have had a V8 - those three sat at my table!!!

by John Weinrich



Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 2:45 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Got them all!!

by John Weinrich



Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 7:52 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


The first name...

by Frank Drumheller

for Mrs. Tattersall is Brenda. Looks better in this case rather than Mrs. C. Tattersall. We do not have a first name for Mrs. Reist nor for the Reist's daughter. They did not attend the Wednesday Dinner and, therefore, we did not get their first names. Perhaps someone who hasn't chimed in yet may know.

A word about the Reist family. Art and Andrew did attend the dinner. They were introduced to the group by Jerry Kurtz. Art is the owner and restorer of the water wagon/street sprinkler behind the group. You have to see the quality of the restoration of this fantastic vehicle to understand why it had an honored place at the front door of the Dover Downs Hotel. Art gave us a lesson on restoring a vehicle as this as well as a historical background of manufacturing such a vehicle. He also described some of the special processes and techniques much different from restoring a car or truck. It is a quality vehicle.

This water wagon was built in the first decade of the 20th Century.

Thank you, Art and Andrew! We hope to see more of your work in years to come.

Frank

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 11:15 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks to photographer........

by Jim Sinclair

Nancy Pfahler (husband Tom) for taking the picture. The Pfahler's own the beautiful red M5 that was at the Meet, JS

Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 7:12 AM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


m5

by brad

do m5 door seals go all way round doot mine are only 5 feet long?

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 3:06 PM
from IP address 100.42.151.59


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

There are two pieces to

by John Weinrich

the seal. One piece goes around the front, top, and rear of the door. Another piece that is larger in girth transverses the bottom of the door.

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 6:05 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Interior rear view mirror for 1947 M 5 pickup

by Dick

I have a 1947 M 5 pickup that I am trying to complete and don't have an interior mirror.

Does anybody have one for sale OR know where I might find one??

Also, could anybody send me a photo a spare tire holder for under the truck bed, as mine doesn't have one and I'd like to buy one or have one made???

Thanks for any help.

Dick

Treedelano@aol.com
218-391-2058

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 11:47 AM
from IP address 67.7.254.111


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

spare tire holder

by Steve Dotson

Need to see a pic and maybe measurements but I have 3 Stude truck spare tire holders. 1 is definately T-cab,no idea on the others. Steve

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 2:39 PM
from IP address 12.202.74.87


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


mirror

by Jeff Jones (the Tucson one)

If you can't find an original, several of the late 40s/early 50s Chevy pickup mirrors will fit. They have been reproduced and are available at most any speed shop.

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 7:08 PM
from IP address 69.9.28.200


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Turn Sigs, Instrument Panel and Bumper Questions......

by Norman

I've got a couple of questions about my '57 3E6 and I'm sure someone out there has the answers~

1) The turn signal mounting holes in the top of my fenders are all wallowed out, and I'd like to drive her a while before I invest in all the body work and patching. If memory serves, some of the earlier models with the same grille had the sigs mounted inside the grille. Were the sigs the same, and does anybody see any issue (besides originality) with relocating mine to the grille?

2)When I removed the instrument panel to fix some problems, it had some type of crumbling gasket between the panel and the dash. Was the gasket there to isolate the dash for grounding issues, or just for looks/vibration? The gals at SI didn't have any idea what it was or where to get one.

3)Sometime in the last 50 years somebody T-boned something and bent in both front bumper mounts. Can somebody throw a tape on theirs and give me a center-to-center measurement so I can get them close?

Thanks!

Norm

P.S. Stupid question for the day. Why do the rear sig mounts hinge? I'm cleaning them up, but don't see the purpose.

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 1:46 AM
from IP address 67.5.105.233


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Turn signals

by Skip Lackie

The 57-58 3E series truck parking lamps were stand-alone, single white lens lamps mounted next to the directional signals on the tops of the front fenders. They did not blink with the signal lamps. The parking lamps of the 59-64 C-cabs were mounted on L-shaped brackets that were hung from the top inner surface of the grille. These could be wired to be directional signal lamps, too -- but most were smaller, single-lens lights (the later 8E series ones were larger, though still single lens). If equipped, the primary, two-sided signal lamps were mounted on the front fenders. The Scotsman models had a small parking/signal lamp mounted on the fenders below the headlamps.

The rear signal lamps were mounted sideways to the rear sides of the bed. Most of the beds I've seen had small dimples indicating where the holes were to be drilled, but many dealers installed them in a different place.

I think the gasket you are referring to is part number 652220. It fits between the cluster panel and the dashboard. I thought SI carried them.

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 11:04 AM
from IP address 96.231.112.27


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


RE: Turn Sig, Instrument Panel Bumper Questions...

by Mark Thompson

Norm, I have an 3E6 also, but my is about half put together now.

Question 1. I due believe the light in the grill that were used in 59 are the same signal-stat 700 used in 57 and before too.

Question 2.Interments gasket on my truck was foam. I believe it is there for weather- proofing. back side of panel is open to the elements.

Question 3. Dimension should be center line of each frame rail. I havn't reinstalled the bumper yet. but that is where the mounting holes are on the frame.

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 6:19 PM
from IP address 70.197.182.222


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Turn Sigs, Instrument Panel and Bumper Questions......

by studemaker

'59 turn signals are unique to that year, but are I believe, actually use the same bodies as the rear signal and light bodies. The difference is in the mounts. I believe the mounts could be reproduced with flat iron, but would perhaps have some flexibility without the ribbing that was stamped into the originals.

[linked image]

The gaskets behind the instrument panels were made of an petroleum impregnated cardboard, and made to keep out the dust and moisture, I have also seen them listed in catalogs in the past, but you could probably reproduce one with some heavy, bulk gasket material, and have them seal adequately.

The center to center measurement of the bolt holes for the bumper bolts on the frame horns is 26 1/2 inches.

Rear signals were hinged to keep them from breakage if you backed into something. Because they were outside the box, but behind the fender in the drivers rearward view, this happened quite frequently! wink.gif

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 8:24 PM
from IP address 216.228.41.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Front Signal lights

by 6E40

That mounting set-up was used on the 1960 to 1964 E-13 and up models as well as the 1959 series. I think you are correct about the bodies as the gaskets listed for the front parklight/turn signal lenses and the tail light lenses are the same part number.

Doug

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 8:19 PM
from IP address 69.157.38.18


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


You are correct

by studemaker

Was only thinking in the Doehler grilled pickups Doug. I tend to forget about the 5E and 6E trucks having the grille mounted signals with the amber lenses.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 9:45 PM
from IP address 216.228.41.98


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks for the responses, guys!

by Norman

Skip~

Thanks for the info on sigs, I didn't know they were model year '59 (like me) so I'll see if some pop up on egay. My rears seem to be in the stock locations after looking at members trucks, so I'm moving forward. I was at TSC today and found these for 5 bucks (6 with the plate light) and they'll work until I can find, blast, and powdercoat some of the originals.

I ran your P/n by SI, and it's a rubber gasket. for 15bux I think I'll try to make one.....

[linked image]

Mark~

Thanks for the "gasket" info, I've got some sheets of butyl rubber so I'll try to make one. SI gets 15 bucks for rubber, I figure making one is worth the time wasted...(-; See below for additional question...

Studemaker~

A pic is worth a thousand words! My 57 has the same 4 mounting holes, so I'll take some sheet stock and make something up. I'll also try the butyl rubber sheeting for the gasket.

I'd say C-C I'm off a bit, but nothing that my friend can't straighten on his frame jig. Looks like the front member got tweaked also, but 50 year old rigs have a hidden history....

[linked image]

As far as the hinges, I'm sure I'll try those out (involuntarily) once or twice...(;

Mark,

Tonight I installed new glass and seals on the passenger side, but I'm having rubbing issues. Is your truck near by? I used what I thought was the correct divider strip, but I'm running into clearance issues. Can you tall me if your '57 has smooth inner side dividers? I don't want to rip everything apart, but I'm willing to make it right.

[linked image]

PS I'll make a post about replacing side windows (seals, whiskers, etc.) with pics when I do the drivers side.

Norm







Posted on Jul 8, 2014, 3:29 AM
from IP address 67.5.105.233


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Turn Sigs, Instrument Panel and Bumper Questions......

by Junkyarddog

I have a 57 for a parts truck,

#1 The signals were on the front fenders mine are "factory" cast and are chrome and are blanked out on the back.

#2 Never found this to be an issue, it's probably there from the factory to seal it from any dirt or water coming though. My 58 probably has it cause its never been apart, but most I've ever taken apart or seen didn't have anything they were metal to metal.

#3 The stock front bumper is bolted straight onto the frame rails and has no brackets, just measure your frame rails. the bumpers on the 57 are straight and not curved like the earlier R series are.

From around 54 on up even on the Champs with the narrow bed with fenders most all have the hinged tail light brackets my 57, 58 and 62 all have them. I guess it was their idea in helping prevent bush from hitting them and braking the lights off . Remember these were work trucks back in the day and used a lot off road.



Posted on Jul 11, 2014, 11:06 PM
from IP address 204.195.57.146


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dover report...

by Frank Drumheller

Well, I think I have returned to earth since our visit to Dover. No complaints except for the heat!! I stayed inside most of the time, but did venture out Thursday AM to visit the truck and Lark classes on the Show Field. Several beautiful vehicles in each class.

The truck that excited me most was George Hamlin's 1949 newspaper delivery van. George has done a wonderful restoration on this most unusual truck- it's sort of the milk truck type- a Boyer sliding door version. This truck sat in a creek for some time before George stumbled upon it some years ago. It was a mess, but you'd not know it now. I hope he won a 1st place. It was a TW cover truck several years ago.

It was great to see so many Studebaker friends at Dover, especially all the truck fans.

The STF dinner went smoothly, I think, on Wednesday evening. We had 39 Studebaker nuts and wives in attendance. Everyone seemed to enjoy the evening and the food was great. A buffet and what a variety!!

We did conduct a business session. After the welcome, introductions, grace and several runs to the buffet, we settled down to business-

> I read the letter from the National Museum thanking us for our continued adoption of the '63 Prototype truck at the Museum. We paid $250 to begin another year through July 1, 2015 for the adoption. The museum included 10 free tickets for the coming year and at least six were distributed. Several are left if anyone is interested.
> I gave a financial report- we had $359.83 in the kitty after paying for the next year's adoption. I passed my straw hat and danged if it didn't come back filled to the brim- $231. We now have $590.83 in the kitty- enough to continue the adoption for at least 2 years. I believe the group is always open to other small projects agreed upon by the membership.
> We announced that the STF would meet to have a group photo session at 9:00 AM in front of the water wagon parked out front. Check out John Weinrich's daily reports above for preliminary photos. Hoping actual photos of the group will show up shortly.
> We were introduced to Art Reist and his son, Andrew. Art told us of his efforts and skills necessary to restore the Water Wagon displayed at the entrance to the Dover Downs Hotel and Casino. His presentation was most interesting and his work even more so!
> We had new members Kevin and Martha Studebaker introduced to the group. They own a 1949? 1 1/2 ton farm truck that Kevin is readying for the road. They have an unusual story to tell of their backgrounds which I will not try to replicate here. We'll get them to post their story for the extended group.
> During open floor, we had a item to discuss that concerned the arrangements for the next dinner for those attending the York meet next March.
> We passed my straw hat again and had everyone put in their numbered meal ticket for a prize drawing. A youngster in the group pulled out #4 ticket. The holder of the ticket was Skip Lackie's wife, Peggy. She won a large framed showroom illustration from the 1949 series of showroom hangings of the 1949 2R17 stake truck in yellow. Skip laid claim to it for his garage art. Congratulations to Peggy.
> We ended the evening with Show & Tell. Bob Barrick showed his 1949 Salesman's desk flip chart for the group. In unbelievable nice condition, it certainly is a desirable collectable. I remember seeing one years ago and it was in fairly worn condition. This one is NICE. Thank you, Bob, for bringing it down from Canada and making these State-siders jealous. Frank had a display of all of his 1957-58 3E series showroom brochures, ads and salesman's data books.

We ended the meeting with Show & Tell in time to get some shut-eye before the 9:00 AM photo-taking exercise!!

Special THANKS to Jane Ash for making the arrangements for the meal and for bargaining our meal price down to $22.20. What a trouper! I'd like to have her bargain for me at the Pearly Gates!

Also, many, many THANKS to Dean Elstad and Sandy Bergeron for manning the ticket table. What a job they did under the pressure of so many handing them $$ so they could eat. And it all came out to the dollar after handling 39 hungry people in about 15 minutes. Thank God for Volunteers. And these three volunteered, they didn't have to be asked!!

We're looking forward to a repeat at St. Louis next year! Any volunteers?

Best wishes, Frank

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 11:27 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Thanks for the report Frank.....

by Jim Sinclair

now if I just knew how to post the photo sad.gif Jim

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 4:47 PM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


TightSteer

by John Weinrich

Anyone ever use this:

http://www.siminoffjeeparts.com/TightSteer.html

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 8:33 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

damper

by vern

never seen one, looks like it would work, any thing would be an improvement on what they have.

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 12:30 AM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Gary Hansen's Unique EUV

by David Orth

Stopped by the Renton (WA) Classic Car Show today. Came across the only Studebaker in the show. Turns out it was local club member Gary Hansen's unique 1950 Studebaker 2R5 EUV...Electric Utility Vehicle. The beautifully finished and painted truck is powered by a beefy high torque motor out of a fork lift and runs on a bank of special lithium batteries located in the bed just behind the cab. While visiting with Gary I was amazed at the large groups of people hanging around who soaked up all the technical information Gary cold dispense. He was a busy guy today. Sadly the photo of the engine....er.... motor was to dark to post.


http://s108.photobucket.com/user/48m5/slideshow/Gary%20Hansen%20Electric%202R5

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 8:22 PM
from IP address 174.21.58.126


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Electric Utility Vehicle

by Bob Cruse

I also attended the Renton , Wa. car show , and here are a few more photos . I hope this works , there should be 10 pictures . ...........Bob Cruse






http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/my4e40/slideshow/?sort=3



Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:34 PM
from IP address 76.104.172.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


When I discussed this battery power

by Peter

in Tacoma a few years back at the Can Am Zone meet I asked how far on a charge, he said tops 60miles but feels better at 50 to 55 miles leaving him some kind of allowance.
Peter

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:55 PM
from IP address 174.1.229.120


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


The workmanship is exemplary...

by Lee W.

....really an example of thinking outside the box.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 11:17 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Progress on farm re-fresh M47A

by Don s.

I've had this about 8 months, I'm doing what I call a body on refresh job.
Farm Fresh.
Been doing lots of stuff...but....what made me laugh out loud today is....
The horns work! I didn't expect this!
[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]
[linked image]

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 11:03 AM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Nice!!

by John Weinrich



Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 8:28 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Last Picture

by Mike

Tell us about the last picture...is that something you made? Doesn't seem like a vintage '47 air cleaner design.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 9:40 PM
from IP address 206.208.220.5


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Air cleaner...

by Don s.

Purchased on eBay. Wanted a vintage looking air cleaner. Couldn't find a Studebaker one at the time.
Painted this the engine color, and had a decal made.
Fits nice.


Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 5:29 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


It does look vintage...

by Mike

...and will probably be a nice alternative to the oil bath variety.

Reminds me of when I was a teen...a friend of mine had an old car with an oil bath air cleaner on their farm. They had cut the back end off and mounted a sprayer. After they quit using it as a sprayer, the tank was taken off and we dubed it the "staff car". We used to run up and down the fields with it and if we went too fast across the rows the oil would splash over into the carbureator and kill the engine. Not having a working starter, we would have to walk back and get a vehicle to pull start it with. Fond memories. I hadn't thought about that in years!

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 11:18 PM
from IP address 96.2.33.186


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


re:M47A ???

by Al Freese

Maybe I'm dense but can someone tell me what a M47A is? I've never heard of that model before. Is that a over-the-road tractor or something?

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:23 PM
from IP address 75.146.133.206


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


m47a is a mistake....M15a....sry.

by Don s.



Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 5:33 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Looking good, where did you get the tires?

by Lee W.



Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 11:13 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Tires...

by Don s.

Came from Coker.

Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 5:30 PM
from IP address 96.35.110.220


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Sweet !

by Fred



Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 7:39 AM
from IP address 24.233.167.201


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


bench seats

by Phil

Has anyone modified a 49 2R Series set of bench seats to fit an M Series cab. I bought a very nice set of upholstered seats, back and bench. The measurements that I got made sense but I find now that I have the seats and can fit them the back seems to fit perfectly and the bench fits in the rear but is too wide at the front and touches the doors when they close. Makes sense because the M cab narrows to the front while the R cab is more square. My old springs are badly rusted and mishapen so I can't get a good measurement on the top of the bench which seems to be the narrowest. I'm inclined to try to modify the springs I bought, recut the fabric and redo the seats, any ideas, has any one done this before?

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 8:43 PM
from IP address 67.183.185.144


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

bench seats

by bill

Phil,
I'm sorry to hear that the bottom doesn't fit! after all that! call me and we can figure something out. Your truck is to nice to start doing a back yard job on the seat.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 8:45 AM
from IP address 71.235.114.132


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


2R5 Box Value

by Mike

I stumbled across a box for a 2R5. Seems to be pretty good with some dings, but not too much rust. I don't need a box, but wondered if it was worth buying in order to resell to provide some funding for the parts I do need.

Is there a market for decent boxes? If so, what kind of value? I realize this is all subjective without pictures, but I don't have any right now. Tyring to determine if it's worth the effort before going in. Not trying to get rich or fleece anyone, just pick up a little extra Studebaker cash.



Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 1:31 PM
from IP address 96.2.33.186


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Re: 2R5 Box Value

by Randy

It depends...
Yes they are worth something. The problem is the guy who needs it probably isn't going to be that close to you, and then how do you get it to him.
Is it just a bed, or is it a trailer? Things like tailgate, fenders, and if it has rare items like a original rear bumper and spare tire carrier under it could be worth more than the bed its self.

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 8:31 PM
from IP address 174.125.84.150


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: 2R5 Box Value

by Skip Lackie

They certainly are worth a few hundred dollars, and a really nice one (if there is such a thing) could be worth %1000. With the fenders removed, they're small enough to fit inside a modern pickup, so they're not difficult to transport. The parts to repair one from Classic cost more that $1000. As noted, the fenders and tail gate can be the most valuable parts.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 5:50 AM
from IP address 76.100.243.102


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Head question

by Randy Belgum

Blew my head gasket yesterday in my M, Champion engine, I will use a sealer when replacing the gasket. What is the tolerance on the head when checked with a straight edge? trying to figure if i need to machine the head.

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 5:47 AM
from IP address 69.35.216.184


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

I don't know the

by John Weinrich

tolerance but I would think 0.005" to be the max.

When I had my engine rebuilt the rebuilder said he didn't use a sealer. He said he thought the gasket sealer was already on the gasket. The leak was between the number one and number two cylinder where there is a water passage. This is where the sealing surfaces is thinnest. So when I fixed it I used the Permarex copper spray. That was a year or more ago and it sealed well. I do seem to have a small leak now. Driving to Dover and back (260+ miles) my recovery tank has dropped about 3" so the leak might be back, not sure because it was very hot out. Engine runs and idles very smooth so if the leak is between the head and the block it must be small. Cannot find a leak anywhere else.

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 7:54 AM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Multiple Retorquing Needed

by Phil Birkeland

Some time ago the head gasket on my 1950 2R10 Champion engine let go, interestingly while sitting in my garage. About 3 qt of coolant leaked into the crankcase. The dipstick showed pure coolant lying on top of the oil. No white emulsion there or inside the tappet chamber. The head bolts were barely finger tight, which explained the leak. The gasket, from SI, had about 1,000 miles on it. Headbolts had been torqued to 50 ft lb at gasket original installation, 50 ft lb the day after, and 50 ft lb at 250 mi. On removing the head, both head and block checked out for flatness, so that was ok. Chased threads in block and on bolts. Reinstalled a new SI gasket, with sealer this time. Retorqued overnight. Then after flushing the engine with 6 qt new oil, installed a new oil filter and another oil change. Retorqued again after 100 mi, then after 2 weeks rest (bolts still took up about 1/6 turn or one flat), then after another 2 weeks rest. Bolts returned to pretorque rotation, indicating the gasket was no longer compressing. No problem since.

I torque using old aircraft practice - one bolt at a time in the factory sequence. Note bolt head flat orientation, then unscrew 1/2 flat to release thread friction, then smoothly retorque without stopping up to specified torque (so torque is measured under sliding, not static friction). If the bolt rotation returns to previous, no gasket compression has occurred since the last retorquing. If the rotation goes beyond the previous, then additional compression has occurred, and at least another retorquing will be needed.

The SI manifold gasket behaved similarly to the head gasket. Overnight retorquing was not sufficient to fully compress the gasket. The SI gaskets appear to be higher quality than gaskets from our local antique car parts store, but do seem to need more retorquings to fully compress.

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 12:30 PM
from IP address 76.121.79.0


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


What your suggesting would seem to me to point to a gasket made of inferior material.....

by Bo

The best quality gaskets are made of a very dense composition material and require less re-torquing to obtain correct torque values. Fel-pro is about the best remaining supplier and the only one I stock any more. Quite a bit of this after market stuff just isn't worth a darn, especially the "Best Gasket" products. Very course and prone to premature failure.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 7:06 PM
from IP address 71.49.9.125


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


I am also not

by John Weinrich

thrilled with Best Gasket. I have replaced the rear main seal several times and it still leaks some. I contacted Best Gaskets and they would not give me the time of day.... I was hoping that they would work with me to determine the exact problem. I suspect that they are making the seal a bit small so it does not seal well on the block interface.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 9:13 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Good advice, All

by Lee W.

If you have any doubts about flatness of the head, it would be easy for a machine shop to surface it and it shouldn't cost that much. An "old school" trick I use is to spray the gasket with aluminum spray paint as a sealer. Give it two coats and let it dry before installing the gasket. I do this on head and manifold gaskets.

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 1:14 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks

by Randy Belgum

for tha advice, Mines is also leaking between # 1&2 cylinders

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 6:02 AM
from IP address 69.35.216.182


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Remember

by Keith Mifflin

There are 2 surfaces that need to be understood. The block and the head. Way too many people don't think about the block because they feel it would be stable but not so. If you have the head off check both so you know what your dealing with. I'd still try and get the head as flat as possible and use a sealer on the head gasket. If the head is real flat it will make up for some small differences in the block.

Keith

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 2:47 PM
from IP address 67.183.150.105


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Head question

by Ted

Randy; I may be answering a little late but just returned from vacation.
If your head and deck are flat you will need no sealer. Look at where the gasket blew. That should tell you where to look for the problem. The manual says if there is warpage more than .015 the head should be replaced. Less than .015 it can be resurfaced.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:27 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Head question

by Ted

forgot to add that as has been stated several (at least three) uses of the torque wrench, two while hot. I too am a trained and licensed aircraft mechanic and understand the torque on an aircraft engine, but there one is working with mostly aluminum, It is a good practice but have not seen the need in these old cast iron engines.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:30 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dover

by vern

made it home today at 3 pm . 22 hrs on the road was enough, had a great time, bought a few parts and sold less. story of my life. could not make the dinner. wish I could have met more of the members. maybe Saint Louis

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 11:13 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Is the next International Studebaker show in ST. Louis

by Mark Thompson



Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 11:29 PM
from IP address 50.123.246.122


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


ST. Louis meet

by Dieseless Jim

Yes.

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 11:40 PM
from IP address 23.119.113.118


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dates...

by Frank Drumheller

please! Frank

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 11:54 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Dates...

by Lee W.



http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdcmeet.asp

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 1:04 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks, Lee W.--

by Frank Drumheller

for posting those annual locations.

Does anyone have the week and days for the International in St. Louis next year. Thanks for helping an old man plan next years activities!! Frank

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 3:23 PM
from IP address 67.163.105.143


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Sunday Aug. 16th........

by Jim Sinclair

thru Sat Aug.22nd Frank.

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 5:29 PM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Nice!

by Lee W.

Probably the coolest time of the year. happy.gif

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 8:43 PM
from IP address 98.210.80.194


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


for vern

by Jim Neary

Vern, Do you have 2 door for a 48 M-5. My email is Handlerjpn@aol.com. I already got the cab piece from you awhile back.

Posted on Jul 9, 2014, 8:14 PM
from IP address 138.162.8.58


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dover Day Five

by John Weinrich


http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/2014/07/dover-day-five.html


Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 7:47 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Thanks for posting your pics John.

by Jim Sinclair

Nice meeting you,happy.gif sorry I missed meeting Vern sad.gif Jim

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 7:04 AM
from IP address 174.54.80.141


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Was weather a factor in the activities?

by Lee W.



Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 12:46 PM
from IP address 76.126.38.23


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Not sure but I suspect itwas, I was not

by John Weinrich

interested in the picnic at the state park because it rained the night before and everything would be wet...

Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 8:06 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


my picture

by vern

John done a lot of work to that picture to make me look good, does that info give you any Idea what I really look like?

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 7:23 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

It took a while but I

by John Weinrich

able to photoshop out that speedo!!

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 8:51 PM
from IP address 71.114.0.165


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


thank god on the speedo delete

by vern



Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 11:00 PM
from IP address 162.201.236.24


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


LOL

by Brian Dahl



Posted on Jul 5, 2014, 5:27 PM
from IP address 24.125.142.129


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Dulany Harms???

by Jeff

Trying to email Dulany with no luck

Sent a radio to him last Friday that was delivered Monday but did not hear back??

Hope all is Fine

rgds Jeff
Kitchener Ontario

[linked image]

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 3:19 PM
from IP address 99.235.203.44


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

Message

by Dulany

Jeff, sent e-mail. Thanks again.

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 7:22 PM
from IP address 99.179.48.125


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Heard back from Dulany

by Jeff



Please send best wishes to Dulany's son who had a mishap this week working.

Get better soon.

Glad the radio arrived

Jeff

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 7:24 PM
from IP address 99.235.203.44


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Power steering for my 6E5 Champ?

by MW

Well, after driving my new Champ for a couple weeks now and shaking a few bugs out, it seems like power steering might be a good call at some point down the road. I keep the truck in my garage which unfortunately requires some serious arm wrenching 4-5 point turns to get it in and out every time, not fun really. The truck steers quit well when moving, but is very difficult when not.

I am going to change the radial tires to bias pretty soon and that might help. But it is looking like having power steering is more and more appealing.

Ted, I think you put power steering in your 3/4 ton Champ if I recall correctly. Any advice and what you did, parts used, photos to share and all that? I think you used a GM steering gear of some sort and I'm guessing the power pump as well. You have the diesel but I'm sticking with the Stude V8. Maybe a Stude pump and even a Stude steering gear unit? Did Studebaker have any factory units that would be a bolt on or mostly bolt on kind of deal I could try to track down. Anything I might be able to get off a Lark or a Hawk?

I'd be hoping to avoid having to pull the front sheet metal off to do this, but not sure about the details with the steering shaft, new connections and all that. Might be a lot easier to pull the front end off to access it all a bit better.

Not sure I want to do it anytime real soon. But, figured maybe I'll be on the look out for the parts needed and then when I have them all and the time to do it can tackle it down the road.

Any advice or parts anyone might have would be appreciated.

Posted on Jul 3, 2014, 6:02 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home

PS means if U don't have it to remember to keep the wheels

by Peter

moving a little then it is much easier at slow speeds.
MW I do not have that particular steering wheel your looking for, next I will look for the Champ Hubcaps. Dr's putting me on all kinds of new meds etc. and they are causing some mega problems and then I got a new type of Drug today that supposedly lessens my Insulin intake so well see where that leads to, but side affects are nausea for 10 or so days.
Does not pay for some to get old and I think I fall into that bracket.
But the skies are blue this week then rain on weekend then heat is back.
Peter

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 1:38 AM
from IP address 174.1.229.120


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Yes, is ok if moving, but not enough room at my garage to move much

by MW

It is a very tight fit and I have to do a 3-4-5 point turns to get in and out. The more I can turn it without moving, the less # of back and forth of course. So, turning while moving just adds to the # of times I have to go back and forth. Not easy getting in/out of tight parking spaces away from home either of course.

I'm hoping the bias will help a little. I'll live with it for a while regardless, but probably would still be way nicer if I could put power steering on without unreasonable effort and cost.

Posted on Jul 4, 2014, 2:55 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Re: Yes, is ok if moving, but not enough room at my garage to move much

by Ted

Mike: I think you have my e address, send me your USPS address and I will copy the pictures of the two units I installed. Both units were from Mercedes cars. Chosen because I had the cars to scrap.
Studebaker did offer a type of power steering which was more of a power assist. The car units will not fit the trucks. The truck units fit the pitman arm on the end of the valve and the car units fit the arm on the opposite end of the valve. The car units will hit the spring or frame when installed and only give a partial turn to the right.
I have seen pictures of others who have installed GM units in their trucks. Usually when these changes are made the steering column also needs to be changed or modified.

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:16 PM
from IP address 24.191.31.160


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Thanks Ted, yes I have your e-mail, will send you a note.

by MW



Posted on Jul 7, 2014, 1:06 PM
from IP address 71.202.174.128


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


P/S Install

by Dave Owens

Check out Bob Johnstones Studebaker web site/resource page....it's huge & it has some some good info for you. Cheers

Posted on Jul 6, 2014, 10:43 PM
from IP address 209.91.107.215


Respond to this message

Goto Forum Home


Find more forums on TrucksCreate your own forum at Network54
 Copyright © 1999-2014 Network54. All rights reserved.   Terms of Use   Privacy Statement