I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this guy just maybe knows a thing or two about Carburetors. I rebuild my own Carbs, most are fairly easy and finding them at swap meets for parts isn't real hard as a lot of other manufacturers used the same models on their motors. Such as Plymouth and Dodge ect.
Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 12:35 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I have a 57 Truck with electric wipers but need a switch for them. Looking for a switch in good condition. In the meantime, I have done a bit of investigating and have found out a few things about the motor and how it operates but have not been able to get the two speeds working on the motor. There are 3 wires coming from the motor, Yellow, Green and Black. If I put 12V+ to the yellow wire the wipers move to the park position and stop like they should. This tells me also that the motor is grounded thru the mount since the yellow wire is the only one connected to anything. If I connect 12V+ to the green wire and have power on the yellow, the motor will run as long as I have power to the green wire and if I remove the power to the green wire, the motor will continue to run until it parks itself just like it should. Now here is what I dont understand, what is the purpose of the black wire? how do I make the other speed work? Putting power to the black wire has no effect except that I see a light spark. It does not appear to be a direct short, but obviously there is current flow based on seeing the small spark. Anyone familiar with this? The wiper motor is a direct replacement motor I purchased from Newman Altman or Studebaker Specialty or something a few years ago but it has had little to no use. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 4:51 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
The previous owner/restorer installed one of those cardboard headliner kits which started sagging until I removed it. After examining the construction of it, I decided it was a piece of cr*p. Next headliner will be something nice, even if it costs more money.
Posted on Mar 15, 2014, 6:33 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I am assuming this dash is damaged from the previous pics he posted on Craigs list.
Needless to say I'd contact him, and show him these pics...
He SHOULD of had insurance on the shipment so his (your) loss would be covered. (of course there is always the chance the shipping co. many say it was improperly packed)
If I wanted this (no matter what) At the very least I would stop payment until he and I could come to some sort of agreement on a reduced price.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 4:05 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Unique idea for packaging for sure. Too bad, but it's just the glass lens. I'm sure somebody else can come up with a new for you or maybe just use the one in your current truck? At least that radio grill didn't get damaged.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 5:09 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
So I guess the speaker grille is fairly rare (and thus expensive)
be cool to have one for my street rod.
I could see the grille mounted where it is supposed to go, and the radio mounted right above it.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 5:57 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
John I may have one or two of the wing medallions. They show up on E**ay once in a while. I am jealous I tried to get that guy to ship the dash to me I even offered him obscene amount of money for shipping. You must have the Midas touch. Drop me an email if you still need wings and I will dig them out of my stash.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 6:35 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The dash is probably from a 1941 Champion car, assuming it is the same width as the M5 "instrument board". The ornament, listed in the 1936-46 Body Parts Catalog for cars, is part number 275926W. It's a 1941-only part, but was used on Presidents, Commanders, and Champions, so there is a better chance to find one than if it was just for trucks. These were also used on early 1942 cars.
The ash tray is also a rare part.
Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 11:15 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Looks like he is cornering the market on NAPCO conversions. I have been by there on my way to swim meets at George Mason. My 4x4 IH was a 1959 A-120, the truck pictured is a S series, mine is pictured below (it also had a PTO driven winch).
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 10:34 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I am looking for an eight foot bed for a 1957 or later Studebaker truck. I do not need the fenders. The bed must be from the later models which are 51.5 inchs wide inside and must be free of any damage.
Please reply directly to my e-mail address with location and price.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 2:56 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Bought a '53 2R6 out of CA. Nice, solid truck. Currently registered and driven for sometime now. Has been changed over to 12V and is missing a few things: working wipers, disconnected heater, bad gas gage (dash), tail lights, a piece of hood chrome (pot metal), and a few other small items.....Shipping out to me in Mass in the next week or so. Gonna be a driver.....
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 1:24 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Looks like I might be getting the restored '62 T-cab truck. Looking to finalize the deal today probably. But, it has been sitting for a while, so needs some attention on the brakes, likely just the cylinders and redoing the fluid. Since I'm doing that, I was thinking it would be a wise choice to just go ahead and do a dual master at the same time for safety reasons since part of the reason I'm getting this truck is to be safer to drive my kids around in.
Anyone have any words of advice for using the Turner kit on a frame mount T-cab setup? or did something else beside the Turner kit that worked out well?
I'm also thinking of possibly doing the disc brake kit, but not sure on that one. So, any words of advice on that would be welcome as well.
The tires are old too, so those will need replacing I'm sure. It has the 15" wheels on it now. I was thinking of keeping those, but putting taller tires on it and using the traction tires in the rear and matching steer tiers on the front for a more work truck like appearance.
Well, that is too bad if that is the case. I liked that these are actually made in the USA. But, that is not enough to make me want to buy them if they really are not that good for whatever reason. I like supporting USA made products when I can and will even be happy to pay more for it within reason. But, not if the products are not as good and definitely won't pay even more if they aren't as good.
I had some similar tires put on my 2R11 back in 2002 that were a Cooper brand tire I believe that have held up very well. Those were made in Taiwan and I'm not sure they still make them. I was happy to have found these, but I might need to do some more research on them. Thanks for the heads up.
The local tire shop I had do the 2R11 tires for me are checking to see what they can source.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 1:30 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Mike , I agree with your 'buy American' sentiments completely . Every time I go to a tire store the first thing I say is "I need some American made tires made by an American co. , I do not want my money going overseas if I can avoid it ." . There are a lot of American made tires out there that are made by foreign companies , one example : Firestone/Bridgestone . Sure , they have American employees , but the company profits go back to Japan to make them stronger and more able to buy out more American manufacturers . This is just my opinion , and now I will step off my soap box . Bob Cruse................
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 2:01 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I purchased my M5 less than a year ago - the owner gave me receipts for the tires that were installed just several months prior to my purchase. I had to trailer her home - no tag or ins and no room in his back yard to get up to speed.
I put historic tags on - Hagarty ins and drove her down to a friends garage - barely could stay on the road @ 25 mph.
They were so out of round that I discarded them because they were dangerous. I thought the front end was totally gone. They could have been seconds but they were not drivable.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 2:47 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I think those are bias and if it was pretty cold out and they had been sitting for quite a while, that might explain the ride, especially if just a short distance and no chance for them to soften up. I don't have that problem with my 2R11 and the bias on it where I live because it doesn't get that cold here. But, I've heard that is pretty normal for old bias type tires, especially probably heavy truck ones like these. But, again, I've never had any similar problems like that on mine. The low temp. here is usually anywhere from 50's typically down into the 30's-40's on very rare occasions.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 2:54 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Also might be looking for a non-factory work truck rear bumper for it.
For the short, wide bed. It currently has a really nice factory bumper which I want to take off and save and put a vintage work truck bumper on the rear instead. If anyone has a nice straight one they would like to get rid of let me know.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 1:48 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
If you can send me a photo, I might be up for that. Sounds about like what would be nice for it actually. Sort of depends on what it actually looks like I guess. I'm not sure I want to go full heavy duty with diamond plate and all that extra weight. More of medium duty but still work truck looking might be even better. My 2R11 has a bent C-channle type of bumper but it looks a bit more farmer made than pro. Looks right on that truck, but this Champ will need something a bit more pro built looking. I'll get it blasted and powder coated. I'm thinking of redoing the wheels in black as well, so maybe I can have them both done at the same time by that outfit you had do your cab. Probably will go with a traditional silver for the bumper, black wheels and then chrome the front bumper when I get a chance.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 2:49 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Mike: A dual master is all right and if you are going to do it the Turner kit is the best there is. I have used it. I have also found the single master with good hoses, lines and cylinders does just as well. If you do not want to go the disk brake route install a hydravac and your brakes are 75% better than no power brakes. I have done this to three trucks now and the Diesel champ is the latest.
Further I buy only Cooper tires. Have had excellent service. Purchased a new set of perelli and never could balance them. They also cost more.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 10:22 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Used a set of tires from STA on a military jeep. Bought them at a swap meet, had no problem with them, and as far as i know they are still on the jeep, which is mostly used by the new owner in Parades and car shows.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 10:54 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I have STA tires on my M5 and they don't ride the best when you first start out. It gets better after about five miles but its no that bad at all to start with. The sidewalls are stiff and the ride is less then ideal but I work the truck some and ride quality really means little to nothing to me. I go 35-40 all the time with them and have no problems. Mine were made in the USA too and I really liked that fact. Overall the tires don't ride great but not terrible by any means. I'd still recommend them to anybody.
Posted on Mar 16, 2014, 10:05 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
because it will be married up to my '57 3E14! . A few weeks back, I purchased a '68 Serro Scotty 13' mini camper trailer, to pull behind my truck to events, as well as use for camping. Since the purchase, I have decided to do some upgrades, and this is what has been done so far, and what is planned: I have had an electrician friend drop buy and install all new wiring, interior lights, upgrade to 30 amp from 15 amp, replace two 15 amp breakers with four 20 amp breakers so no problem running electric referigerator, coffee pot toaster, , microwave, heater, lights and air conditioner. The trailer has been upgraded to all electric by PO. Plan on repainting exterior of trailer to original tourquoise/white color, which will match the truck color perfect! I have a slight bend in the tung jack, so will replace with new. The interior of the trailer will also receive a new tourquoise/white paint job. All interior dinette/bed seat pads as well as couch/bed pads and drapery are all custom made and new foam installed.
If all goes as planned, I will be pulling the trailer to Dover, not to camp in, but to show with the truck. Looking forward to this trip, with my grandson in the shotgun seat!
Forgot to add, I acquired a nice S10 Reese hitch to be installed on the truck. That will be done shortly.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 6:56 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Well, the truck is back on the road after a few years. I'm having tons of fun and get lots of people that point and mouth "Stu de baker" with a puzzled look. Now I'm worried because I have no security at all. San Diego is a car theft heaven being 10 minutes from Tijuana. EVEYTHING I've thought of is easily defeated. I can't even buy a Club that will fit the steering wheel. Any ideas you have I'd be greatful to hear. Thanks!
I'll post some pics if I ever figure out Photobucket.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 1:08 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Criminals who steal vehicles are well aware of H O W to do it, no matter what you do! It's sad. I believe the best decision would be to put it in a garage and lock it up when not in use. "Out of sight, out of mind", as they say. If no room in a home garage, there are always storage sheds to rent. You can always make sure, also, the vehicle is well insured to cover theft.
Brother also lives in San Diego, and echos your comments about thefts! Best of luck!
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 6:36 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
They used to have a kill switch that you could hide in the fuel line,I don't remember where to get them? I'm sure you can find it in google.It's a little extreme,But take a tire off when not useing it,or a boot like the cops? Good Luck!
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 8:11 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Hidden kill switches help but are no deterence to anyone using a rollback/snatch truck as the locals here are doing now. One of the coolest motorcycle locks I have ever seen was an attached pin that went through the disc. Maybe build something along those line that could be activated from the cab and lock a drum or rear gear set. A lock cable around the brake pedal and through the steering wheel is somewhat effective, moreso if the wheels are turned hard one way, but still overcomable. There are several RFID systems that can be used. I did have a doctor that would install a silicone tracking chip that could be activated via computer. they were marketed for several years and were designed to go under the skin of children to assist in the event of kidnapping etc... He (doc) could usually shoot them through a weld somewhere into the frame tubes on the bikes. Several companies offer a modified version of this technology now for automotive applications. Otherwise one must chain a pit bull to anything they wish to keep theirs these days. Best of luck, Steve
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 9:49 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I do not know what kind of money you are looking to spend and it will involve a little time but.
1. It Isolates and kills all power supplied to any part of the car.
2. It can be programed with lots of options.
3. It can be set up where your key fob must be in a certain distance of the truck for any power to even work in it.
4. It can be set up where you can get rid of most of your gauges int he truck. Your tablet or Ipad becomes dash.
5. You can add many many functions to a key fob including air bag operation and settings. Opening doors windows and locking doors. Turning on lights turning them off, setting off a alarm. Runing stereo. All sorts of stuff.
Reason I say its not for all CASO's ( Cheap *** Studebaker Owners) Base system starts at $1500
But it makes that truck almost impossible to steal with out towing. And with air bag set up they will have to put it on dollies to even consider it.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 11:35 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Had a friend with a 427/425 corvette , worked in Dayton ,Ohio , Had his corvette locked , in gear (4speed) . Came out one morning to find skid tracks about 4 ft. long where they had pulled it onto a trailer/ rollback. Never saw it again. I think you can jump hoops to lock vehicle and still lose it! Best option to me is to have a tracking chip in it so it can be tracked if stolen .
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 12:29 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
For better or worse, they aren't the most desirable to collectors in general and typical thieves as a result. Studebaker people are a small community (people and vehicles), people are typically older and more respectable of others and property in general. There is not a lot of internal theft, just the opposite usually. So, most theft would be outside the community and the demand for that is pretty low and would possibly be a matter of kids and and opportunity kind of thing if anything. The pros would be looking to sell parts or ship it overseas, neither of which are particularly strong or likely reasons either.
A manual trans. is a decent enough deterrent for the kids. That and just not leaving the keys in the ignition where that could possibly happen will knock most of that out.
Plus, they stand out and are easy to spot. So, harder to get away with it even if you do try.
Just having a Studebaker by itself is a big first step in it being less likely to get stolen in the first place.
And don't leave anything of any value in your car/truck when not at home. Don't tempt. people with leaving stuff in there they can see and possibly take. My current 2R11 is a bit of a rough old farm truck and even less likely be be stolen. I don't even lock it or bother to roll the windows up when I leave it parked at places. It is too easy to break into and I'd rather they just open the door and look instead of breaking something trying to get into it.
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 1:44 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I'll probaby go with some kind of kill switch and fuel cut off I guess. I think it's safe at home but I'm afraid to park it anywhere because it's so incredibly easy to start and drive away. I'm kind of relying on the current generation not knowing how to drive a column shift!
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 1:59 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
In my opinion that's rather high for a transmission of unknown condition. A large number of the cores I purchase have some degree of water in them, some to the point the entire unit is scraped, BEWARE! I believe the standard and the OD trans use two different gear housings and are not interchangeable. Call me at 717 308 1800 and we can talk transmissions. Jerry Kurtz
Posted on Mar 12, 2014, 3:35 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I'll be calling. Mine was rebuilt years ago and then life happened and the project got put on hold. This spring I'll be putting the truck back together and since the engine is already installed on the frame the tranny will be next and if I'm going to keep the champion little 6 then I really want to add an OD, and now's the time...
Posted on Mar 13, 2014, 2:38 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Wow what to my surprise did I find in the mail to me but a Studebaker original 2E Series Truck shop manual from one of our members down NE of San Francisco! It was just a great way to end the beautiful day up here in NW Washington!
Thanks so much! don't want to embarrass anyone by calling them out but I do appreciate their generosity!
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 8:50 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Lennox 1926 Stude truck model, with a stove in back.
One must beware their emotions when thrift and Antique store browsing.
No computer, smarter than me phone elsewhere. And what do i spy, in a looks like 50 year old box. A model of a 1925 Studebaker Truck. Having never see one before, excitement overwhelmed me and a i plunked down the 27.50 for this gotta be a bargain item. Then i got back to my computer and learned once more. Caveat Emptor! Seems everyone but me has one.
STUDEBAKER TRUCK FARMERS, Larry, Michael, Ernie, Chuck, and Allan!! You have joined the greatest group of Studebaker Truck nuts in the world. This group KNOWS some stuff. We meet on the Studebaker Truck Talk site where there's a host of guys and dolls who KNOW IT! Don't be afraid to ask-we've already heard it and are willing to share information on our favorite truck. Also, a good place to find some of those scarce parts. Let us know about your Studebaker truck interest(s). Please include photos!!!! Frank
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 5:08 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I just bought a 59 scottsman Its pretty complete, Just missing the S on front of the hood and a clear front turn signal lens. Since they were economy models they must have used pices from other models.any information would be helpful.Thanks Bill
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 1:17 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Feel free to share with us the story of your Scotman. Also, Frank Drumheller maintains a registry of known Scotsman trucks. If you could post the information from the data plate, he'll include your truck in the registry. I also own a '59 Scotsman truck, a 4E3 model.
The last time I checked, Studebaker international had the "S" emblem for the hood.
You can contact them at:
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 12:07 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Left rear fender throws me, not convinced yet. Though
by Jeff S.
the cab and front left fender look correct. Did you notice the Stude Champion in the right traffic lane near the box truck?, check it with a magnifier, center of photograph. Nice clear "frozen moment of history", probably 1941-1946. Jeff S.
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 12:00 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
These just came from Bill for posting.
At the last couple of hours of the Swap meet at York Bill Cicale said we have no pictures. Gary and Jane Ash came by and Skip posed with Bill and Jane. Then somebody started taking pictures of my booth Yup, I was in it. Looks like we did not turn the camera on Gary.
Posted on Mar 10, 2014, 10:32 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Correct that is the new badge, write Phil Harris for these.
It is always lots of fun to see friends that usually are only seen two or three times a year. Would be nice if we all lived closer, we all had lots of time and trailers with trucks to pull them am lots of gas to go get those strays.
Always lots of adventures. a fella came to my booth with a 1958 4WD for sale. He really wants a lot of money for a truck that wants to be restored but I hope he calls me back.
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 11:30 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
...0r, that's what Jane and I called the photo of Ted Jensen and Bill Cicale.
Incidentally, the T-shirts are promoting the 2016 Studebaker International Meet in Warwick, RI, June 28-July 2, 2016. The T-shirt was designed by trucker Gary Hallgren and pictures Paul Derosier's cab-over truck. We have lots of shirts available in all sizes (made in USA), including women's and kids' at $18. Let me know if you want one. Meanwhile, mark your calendar!
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 9:57 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Had a great time and also did very well vending. We can easily add another hour but here is the problem. Several people signed up but didn,t show. Fortunately we just covered the bill with the monies collected, another hour would have put us in the hole. For me the highlight of the evening were the Studebaker couple. They said after being married for 30 yrs when two yrs ago they discovered both were descendants of two of the Studebaker brothers. Great story
Posted on Mar 10, 2014, 8:12 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Looking for a oil cooler for my flight-0-matic auto trans. This was a factory 259 with auto. My tranny cooler has been leaking on it's seam. I have been loosing water and been trying to figure out where it has been going. I tried to fix leak by using JB Weld but it did not hold. This cooler is flat and attaches beside the trans. Anyone have a spare they can do without? Vern?
Posted on Mar 10, 2014, 12:47 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I have just spent the better part of two days calling and waiting for call backs from every vender I can find across the country looking for this damn cooler. Four thirty today I finally found one. Not just found one but it is new, unused, and it has been sitting on a shelve for over twenty years. My last vender to call was Myers Studebaker. He picked it up with a load of parts from a Studebaker dealership over twenty years ago. They did not know what is was for as it came with no identification. Thanks to John Weinrich for posting the pictures of it. They matched it up to the pictures and BINGO!! A bit pricy but I really wanted to keep everything original. Happy,happy boy.!!
Posted on Mar 14, 2014, 4:49 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Re: Isn't this the truck that was in a barn or shed that we have talked about ?
Yes it is. I have decided to complete my Galaxie and 2R5 that I drive instead of starting another project and never finishing it. That is if it sells. I honestly don't care if sells or not because I know I will never find another truck that solid in this neck of the woods.
I have gotten to point in life that I want to start enjoying what I have and spend less time working on stuff. I sold my 61 Hawk last August and bought a motorcycle that gets 50 mpg instead of 13 mpg like my truck.
I will miss the 2R16A if I sell it, but if I restore it, then I am back up to 3 classic vehicles to maintain and drive again. It is just too much. And I am not one for restoring a vehicle for someone else, if it is not for me, I am not "into" it. Know what I mean?
Posted on Mar 10, 2014, 9:27 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The John Deere is a 420 with a manual angle dozer blade. That particular one is my father in law's, but soon to be mine when he gets back from Myrtle Beach. I also have a 420 crawler loader, but the engine is tired and it has street pads.
The 420 dozer runs strong and has grouser tracks. Will work nice to clear the "back 40" this summer.
Posted on Mar 11, 2014, 10:34 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I was on my way into Ocala this morning and a tow truck (slide back flat bed) past me going West. It had what appeared to be an extremely nice Blue 2R5 on the back with a wrecked front end. Looked like it rearended another vehicle either yesterday after the show, or early this morning. Anybody know who's it is, or what happened? I feel really bad for the owner, because it is probably one of the nicest looking driven trucks I've seen in a long time.
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 7:09 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Can someone tell me why there are wooden block spacers under the champ seat base. My Champ came with wood triangular wedges measuring about 14" in length, 2" wide, 1 3/4" high. It is triangular in shape. The block is flush in the front and angles up to 13/4' in the rear. It looks home made. A friend of mine states his seat space is 141/2" long, 2" wide, 1 3/4" high. Both ends are the same height, however the center of the block is scooped out 7" in length and a depth of 1/4 in.
What is correct and what is the purpose, I cannot find this listed or shown in the parts book.
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 12:12 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I have a 4 speed on the floor and my wedge type allow me to clear the trans floor pan. With your spacers does that raise the seat on the front so there is less room for the tummy and the steering wheel.
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 2:41 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Made the first miles with my new rear end today, a real difference to the 5.11:1.
Thanks again to Jack, Vern and Brian for all the help and assistance to get the rear end home to Germany.
After two days praying the old pinion with the pinion puller, an old hydraulic jack and a hot air gun and ice spray
out the install of the new one was an easy thing.
It drives real good and makes not much more sound like the old rear end gears.
Now I've got another problem.
The tachometer shows the wrong speed.
Maybe one of you knows how to get that done.
Are there adapters available to change the tachometer ratio?
Anyway, now my truck is better to drive on the country roads here in Germany.
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 12:01 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Glad your install went well and yes, the 4.11 Timken makes top gear driving much more pleasant.
Yes, 4-speed and 5-speed trucks often came with a Stewart-Warner gearbox which attached to the transmission speedometer output. The small rectangular box has two gears inside, the combination of which increases or decreases the number of turns the speedometer cable will make in a given distance.
Use a GPS to determine the exact percentage (maybe 20% for the rear axle ratio change, plus/minus whatever tire diameter and age related issues) your speedometer is showing less than/in relation to the actual road speed. Then, maybe someone here will have the correct S-W gearbox or gears for you. I have a couple around somewhere.
FWIW, back in the bad old days, every town had a speedometer shop and a box of S-W gears to fit these adapter boxes. The speedometer could be fine tuned to produce exactly correct road speed reading.
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 1:09 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The car 3-speeds are so common, the gears are also. The truck 4-speed speedometer driven gear for the 4.11 rear is about as rare as the rear axle. On my E12 with the 4.11 and T98A, it came from Studebaker with the Stewart-Warner adapter box as OEM.
The two speedometer shops in Spokane have been gone for at least twenty years now. Today, I wouldn't know where to go for parts or service. Since most speedos are electronic, the cable parts probably got scrapped years ago. Next time I'm by a taxi service shop, I'll ask, as they were the last speedometer shop customers.
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 5:54 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
It was a long road, but you finally got there! Know you will be pleased with the performance of the 4.11 in your 2R. Glad I was able to help you out, in a small way! YOU did all the install work! . Safe motoring!
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 5:59 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
looks like Vern got the parts I'll need.
Just have to make a test drive and look how big the difference
between the real speed and the speedo is and count the teeth.
Not the ones in my mouth.
BTW, my 2R11 got the 3 speed with OD.
Posted on Mar 10, 2014, 1:22 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I have to change out a worn out rech rod end on my 53 2R11.
When I've ordered one at SI I get the wrong one, was my mistake.
I need the rod end on the passenger side that is on the steering rod.
Not the one that is at the rod that goes to the other wheel.
Maybe one of you got one or got the correct part number for me.
Thanks in advance and
Posted on Mar 9, 2014, 11:48 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124