Thanks to everyone for your help and nice comments, my wife
by Jim Beadle
finely figured it out. Now I need to add comments to each of the pictures so that people will know what I have done. Jerry I am with you on preferring to be working in the shop I also don't understand computer terminology. When I think I have done just what someone said to do and I don't get the same page/info and choices that should be there, so I am lost. Enough said. Thanks Again Jim B.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 7:44 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
At the bottom of the posting page on each thread you post...
Is a photobucket link, it opens your PB. Account and then you select the pick you want to post...
It shows you a link...select it, select all, copy, then past it in your post.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 3:46 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
My wife and I spent an evening trying to figure out how to post pictures. Since I don't understand most computer lingo I would stand a better chance of landing on the moon.
Instead I spend my time in the shop working on latest Studebaker project. Less frustrating. Jerry Kurtz
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 8:05 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
You left off the file name on the end, in this case: 532R5StudebakerTruckRenovationPictures117.jpg. So I went to your link, selected the picture then right click to select "view picture". That gave me the link in the browser. I copied the file name and pasted it on your link in your post and this is what I got:
I left off the leading "h" here so you can see what the URL string should look like (the link should be "http" not ttp"):
And here is the picture:
Same here for 532R5StudebakerTruckRenovationPictures116.jpg:
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 11:33 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Worked hard today...
Worked on front brakes,
Removed a dent from one of the headlight buckets. Heated it to red hot, pressed it out with a spoon like pry bar.
Drilled out and replaced broken bolts on the same headlight bucket.
Removed carb, fuel pump, and manifolds to access the valves. Maybe removing them tomorrow. Still need to turn the
Bought some parts for brakes, bleeder valves, replacement bolt for backer plate, material to fab brake cylinder piston that was ruined taking cylinder apart....it was VERY corroded.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 6:27 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Been having problems with carb adjustments for a while. Well I ran out of gas just after new engine rebuild and sucked up quite a bit of rust from tank to carb. Switched out both fuel filters, cleaned out filter on electric pump and flushed out the lines. Rebuilt the carb. Started to run a little better but still not right. So I finally removed the left tank and moved the right tank to the left. Running strong and right now. Inside of the bad tank had fine rust particles in there plus quite a coat of varnish layering the bottom of the tank. Sending unit trashed. I have bought Red-Kote for the sealer but need to clean out all the junk from the tank. Have read a few different products and methods used to prep the tank. Wondering what others have done to remove the hardened varnish.
I was planning to first flush tank with heavy cleaner/degreaser with small chain and nuts and bolts to try to loosen things up a bit. Now to remove the varnish buildup. I have heard of using acetone for this. Also heard of using muriatic acid. Which works best and quickest? Any other methods you would suggest? The varnish is thick on bottom. How long will it need to soak?
Anyone have a sending unit to spare?
As always thanks in advance for the help.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 9:04 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
the Hirsch kit. It comes with an etch and degreaser. Hirsch claims that their coating can handle the modern fuels. I've been driving the truck since April of 2011 and have had no problems. I put a bunch of nuts, bolts, and sheet rock screws in the tank and whenever I was in the garage I would pick it up and shake it for a few minutes. I did this for a week or so and then washed it out. I just stuck a garden hose in there spigot and let it run for a while. To dry the inside of the tank I stuck a heat gun (the kind used for heat shrink tubing) in the spigot and let run for several hours. It is very important to get it completely dry. Never tried Red-Kote so I can't comment on that.
The best way to fix your problem is to buy the POR-15 gas tank sealer kit. It comes with all the instructions, cleaner materials and the final sealer. It's well worth the money and it works. Google POR-15
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 11:10 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I used the POR15 kit on my very cruddy and pin holed tank and it worked very well. Needed to cloth over parts of the outside so it doesn't LOOK pretty, but it seems to be working after one whole season.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 5:16 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
We used a small log chain. It was heavy enough to abrade the surface and you only have one thing to fish out of the hole. We also hung the tank from the ceiling by strings about waist high. This allowed us to rock the tank back and forth without sloshing the mix on us.
PS: For M series tanks, remember to remove and clean the crossover pipe. The are a real rust trap.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 6:51 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
The Hirsch sealer on John W's recommendation after using the nuts/bolts and a small dia. chain to loosen up the rust, I didn't have vanish buld-up. If you have seen the picture of my tank in the photos below I repaired the holes with a small piece, three layers, of fiberglass cloth and risen. Painted the outside of the tank with 2 heavy brushed on coats of POR-15.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 7:57 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I have cleaned many gas tanks and used Red-Kote to line them, which works well. The tanks that were really bad I filled with muriatic acid or acetone or even fresh gas, whatever was available at the time. Muriatic acid seems to work the best of the three I have tried. I have always had gravel from the driveway available so I have filled the tanks with that and sealed them up. I chained or attached them to a rear tractor rim in some way and then jacked up that wheel of the tractor. I put the tractor in the lowest gear and let the jacked up wheel spin slowly for about an hour then drained and inspected the tank and if needed repeated the process.
Posted on Dec 4, 2013, 5:51 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Very nice visit with John, Sue & Frank (from Germany) yesterday!
by Brian Dahl
The wife and I were in the neighborhood, so dropped in for a visit with fellow STFer John W. And his lovely wife Sue. After John and Sue treated us to an outstanding breakfast, it was back to tour John's shop/garage while the women visited. Had my IPad and ringed up Frank on SKYPE! The three of us had a great time! Frank showed us his new diamond plate tool chest, on wheels. Very nice addition to the Goose Barn, Frank! Now, you'll have to tell Santa that you want to have him fill it with all those much needed tools! . Frank and I watched John work on a couple projects, and must admit, he really knows what he's doing when he starts working on a project!! We got to see the carb the John just completed plating. Looks to pretty to use! LOL.
Very nice time spent with John, and know Frank enjoyed the visit also. The wife had more shopping stops on the way home, so had to hit the road after about an hour. Thank you John and Sue, for a wonderful visit, and the chance to see some of John's projects.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 7:20 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I'm ready to re-furbish the rear axle on my M5. The manual shows two options; a standard at 4.82 and an optional at 4.55. When I did the math, it seems you only get about a 1.5 MPH advantage at 1,500 rpm.
Why would the company go to the trouble to offer this option with so little top end speed difference?
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 9:43 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
That sounds like a hoss. Does the build sheet show if its a Timken or Spicer?
I plan on putting chalk marks on my driveshaft and rear hub to do the math and determine what I am running. Since it has the larger four speed transmission, I am guessing it's the 4.82.
A friend in the next county told me about his dad rigging a plow to their R series and using it to work up their garden. With these ratios, I fully believe it. (Sort of adds a new definition to "Truck Farming".)
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 8:45 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Timken. I think with the Ms at least all the larger trucks used Timken and the M5 used Dana/Spicer. I got real intimate with mine when I got the truck. The differential was empty of an fluid and one of the pinion bearings was totally toast. There were bearing rollers in the bottom of the case and one could wiggle the input shaft side to side about an inch. I replaced the bearing to get the truck on the road but the pinion and ring gear's mating surfaces were all gouged up so was able to get UOS (Used Old Stock) replacement gears from Vern. I've got 5k+ miles on it now and appears to be functioning OK.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 9:09 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
That is explained in Service Letter no.73, dated January 22, 1948 which says in part...'Beginning with truck serial number M15A-20383 a rear axle assembly having a 5.83 to 1 ratio entered production. This axle ratio replaces the 5.66 ratio formerly used'.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 12:03 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Look at the problem from a different angle. If you are using stock tires at 70mph the difference between the two ratios equates to about 258rpm. That equals 15,480 less revolutions in one hour that your engine will turn. Wear and fuel consumption is reduced. Now if you want to pull stumps or tow heavy loads, then the 6.66 ratio I have in my M16 would be more to your liking. Neal
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 11:31 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Unless you really need to replace the bearings - an expensive job - just flush the axle and put new oil in. The seals are easy enough to replace.
If you want a lower number ratio, it's better to put in an overdrive transmission and keep the old axle. That way, you get 4 gears to use instead of three. The overdrive ratio is 0.7 so that 4.82 ratio turns into 3.37 in overdrive. That's good enough to get you well past 70 mph. Sometimes, even overdrive in 2nd gear is useful, essentially giving you a 5th gear.
For those that insist on changing ratios in the rear, the ring and pinion set used in 1950-ish Ford F1 trucks and 1950 Mercury cars that used Dana 41 axles is 3.92. There were even some 3.73 gear sets that Ford used, but rare. You can swap the ring and its carrier and the pinion gear. Be sure to get the carrier, because it's a different thickness than the one with the 4.82 gears. Now all you have to do is find one! But, if you are going to pull the axle apart to swap gears, you might as well put all those new bearings in.
Otherwise, just get a whole different Dana 44 or Ford 9-inch axle with the right ratio. If you go less than 3.92, you may be down-shifting on every hill.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 3:26 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
They want $300 for the whole axle assembly. Maybe you could get them to pull the ring, pinion, and carrier and save you a lot of shipping charges. OK, have them throw in the spider gears as well, and other small parts. Let them keep the housing. They may even have two of these. Search Ebay for "Ford F1 rear axle".
Just be sure you get a Dana 41 and not some other type.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 9:45 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
My truck currently has the four speed transmission, but my parts truck has the three speed column unit with overdrive. Based on Gary's comments it looks like the overdrive is the way to go, regardless which rear-end I have. Thanks to everyone for the help. jh
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 10:29 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I sell an overdrive trans for the M5's that is a bolt in. The original front case is used and I adapt a 47 to 57 od to bolt onto the case. I sell a fair number of them always get positive feedback. Not sure I have a core right now. Your truck will easily cruise at 65 mph. Call me at 717 308 1800 for more infro. Jerry Kurtz York Pa
Posted on Dec 4, 2013, 7:40 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
bought the truck about 3 yrs ago. Took some parts off for my other truck. I have been working on this truck for a couple months, rebuilt wheel and master cyls. painted the frame acrylic enamel, put the champ eng, 3 spd trans and radiator in. It runs and shifts well. I have it to the point where I need to start to replace sheet metal. I now have another parts (50 2R5) that has some of the sheet metal that is better than this one. I will try and do the rough rust cut outs and make new replacements. I will try the pictures later. Thanks again Jim B.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 8:59 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Hi everyone! Hope everyone enjoyed a nice Thanksgiving. I have been trying to locate a check valve, vacuum booster to manifold, part #523241
I have tried all the vendors, but no luck. Does anyone have one they are willing to sell? Thanks in advance; looking forward to Christmas!.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 7:20 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Have you checked the flatness of the head? Just wondering. One of the things I plan to do when I have the head off next time is to run a tap through the spark plug holes. I want to use plugs that protrude into the combustion chamber to improve combustion but the threads are either not completely tapped through or there is to much carbon. I did buy a tap but wanted to do it when the head was off. Did the measurements to determine that the ground electrode would not hit the valves...
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 8:08 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Are you going to clean and paint that and with which paint if so? I had to remove mine due to a gasket leak and a friend blast-cleaned it - never painted it afterward as I heard its hard to get a lasting paint job for this part. Looks good for now.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 8:22 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I have a 1951 2R10 for sale along with some additional parts. This truck looked a lot better than it does now prior to 6/12/13 when a F3 tornado hit my Father's barn where it was stored. Now it has a few dents than before. I have recently moved to the Iowa City area and don't have time to work on it or enjoy driving anymore and I think it would better off with someone who has more time to enjoy it. The extra parts that I have for it include a higher speed Studebaker Timken rear end i purchased from Doug Farmer awhile back, new cab mounts & new front shocks. It has new bias ply tires front and rear on powder coated Budd rims. Mechanically it is sound and idles like a sewing machine. I'm asking $3,500. The truck is located in North Central Iowa.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 3:21 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
bumps all over, but should be easy to fix most of them, don't think you would need to buy any sheet metal. I had one from a tornado some years back, it didn't come out so good. it had rolled several times and ended up in a tree.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 4:44 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Nice looking truck, regardless of the dimples. Frankly, having tornado dimples in a truck like that is no worse than driving around in a rusty finished truck and calling it 'patina' I wish I had that much for a truck purchase, I'd snap on it.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 5:30 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I asked a question earlier, but it was in the middle of a different topic, so it probably got over looked.
WHERE can you get ABS. I know many of us have to make new door or kick panels; so I know some folks must of had to acquire it.
What did it cost, and where did you get it.
I DID see one place that sold 48" x 48" sheets. Only $15 for the sheet, but wanted $135 for shipping...?
Any help out there?
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 1:33 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
....Hi Chris, ABS sheet plastic is available at any local plastics distributor. Poke around this website for product info and a this distributor for their store in Atlanta.http://www.calsakplastics.com/.
(IIRC you're in that area).
I used 1/16" for my door and kick panels. It's easily machined and shaped. The Rod-Doors has a couple good You Tube videos showing some simple how-to's. Hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 3:49 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Thanks for the info. Someone suggested using 1/8 inch. I've never saw anything but 1/4 inch (which I know is too thick)
Do you think 1/8 would be too thick and hard to shape.
I intend to shape it down around the sides of the cab and across the back of the cab (so I'll have to do those tight cab corners)
Since you used it I was curious on your thoughts.
Also, once you shape it does it hold it's shape on it's own.?? Needless to say I'd want to get it to fit, and then cover it with upholstery
Posted on Dec 3, 2013, 9:04 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
You can find it at a sign makers shop if you don't have a plastic supply house near you. Most upholsterers recommend using 1/8" thick material. Make sure you rough up any surface that you will be gluing with sandpaper so it holds. Use the proper glue...anything that comes out of a spray can is generally crap.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 12:01 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
This is my new Project Truck, the old parts truck.[URL=http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x419/jbeadle2/1950%20New%20Project%20Truck/532R5StudebakerTruckRenovationPictures097.jpg" alt="[linked image]">~original[/IMG][/URL]
maybe hope this is right
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 7:43 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I could haul really large things in it. Ha ha. I have another box that is somewhat better and has most of the metal floor and the rear fenders do not have license plates holding them together. Still a lot of work that I am not sure I can make myself do. Will give it a try. I am getting to old for this crap. Jim
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 9:11 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I am in Ohio ,so what looks good to me might not amount to much to someone in a part of country where rust isn't a problem. The bed floor could be easily laid in or go to wood. I don't see severe rust in the cab and fenders for rear shouldn't be hard to come up with! Good luck and keep us posted !
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 6:32 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I've got a governor that I want to put back on my M15A but the diaphragm is bad. I removed the diaphragm and replaced it with non-reinforced rubber but have no way to test it with putting on the truck.
Has anyone repaired one of these?
The other thing I am trying to understand is how it is supposed to operate. It appears that manifold vacuum closes the butterfly and an adjustable spring opens it. From all the illustrations I have seen about this type of governor, manifold vacuum opens the butterfly and airflow closes it, just the opposite. So the way it appears to operate does not make sense.
Anyone know about the operation of these?
Posted on Nov 29, 2013, 9:10 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Well - Vern is sending me a clip to replace the nose of the cab roof down into the windshield posts. I haven't ground out the bondo yet but it is apparent the interior of the windshield header area up into the curve up that the visors and headliner mount to is totally rotted out and bondoed. The repair is really good on the exterior and poor on the interior. I believe once I grind or blast out the area I will have nothing to weld to.
I should have been suspicious when the seller couldn't find the windshield garnish molding - it had rotted away too. I'm distraught - the complete windshield header and several inches down the front post have to be replaced and I don't believe I have the skills necessary to do the job.
Can anyone recommend a couple shops in central New Jersey I could contact for bids? Are there any suggestions other than replace the windshield header clip?
Any experience would be greatly appreciated.
Posted on Nov 29, 2013, 5:56 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I hesitated to respond because I have no knowledge in this area. My only thought is the collection of Iron River M's and that there could be some good body parts there for you, but...in the spring when they are dug out from under the snow.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 12:41 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I am in a similar situation. I have an M5 that was pretty rusty -- I certainly should have waited for a better one to come along, but since I was planning on dropping a 259 it in, going to modern shocks, adding a tilt column, etc., I didn't want to do that to a really good survivor either. As I got to the point of putting glass in it, I discovered the damage and paid a body shop to correct it. I am not entirely happy with the condition of the A pillars and I need some work done on the inner and outer cab corners as well as the back floor of the can (already replaced the front side). Since I don't weld, the plan is to drop it off with a body guy to sit in the corner of his shop all winter and have him work on it when he has nothing else to do at a reduced rate.
I rationalize this by saying I am putting a truck back on the road that nobody else was going to fix up.
I will be very interested in hearing what your results are.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 10:34 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I plan to get bids from several metal shaping shops to replace the header and part of the pillars with a clip. Really bummed about this - I'm finding more rot than I expected. Will have to replace at least the drivers side floor and supports also. I'm going to buy a MIG and repair the areas you can't see and after I retire I can make yard art... I will post pics of the progress.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 6:03 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
But, I thought to myself, I would fab and repair it.
Good luck in finding someone.
let us know what happens.
Could you post some pics to PhotoBucket, then link them here. we would all get a better idea what has to happen.
Maybe we can step you thru the fab...
a way to cut out the worst part of it.
a piece of metal. I use door cutouts from where I work, or buy some metal.
a welder or someone who can do this.
hammer and vise, clamps.
filler, like bondo, primer.
it sounds easy, but I know its not...
look at other pics I've posted about fixing the grill work.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 1:25 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
In another life I use to own a steel fab shop in rual NC and was proficient with MIG but haven't welded in 35 years. I know I could pick it up again and have been looing for a used machine. I believe a header clip from Vern is the way to go - my concern is an accurate placement. I also need to replace driver's side floor and possible patching here and there - so a welder may be in the cards. I am ready to take the truck apart soon.
I really appreciate your response! Thank you.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 4:42 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
There is a company - Jersey Metal Shaping - that has been highly recommended on the HAMB forums that I have contacted and will send pictures for a quote. I also have other areas - cab floor - bed floor repair - patches here and there - so I may buy a welder and give it a shot myself.
John Hearn suggested fiberglass - which is another great idea.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 4:49 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Sorry to hear about your rust issues the pictures you showed me really did not look like you were going to find rust like that! I have worked with Jim Malero of Jim's Automotive and Classic Cars 973-222-7265 he is located right on Route 15 in Sparta NJ. He has been in the Body business for a long time and has built some really nice cars, he has completed a majority of the work on my M5 to date. I have seen him turn some rusty hulks into some pretty nice rides.
Good luck I am still trying to dig out those bumper brackets.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 8:29 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Bruce, Sparta is further than I wanted to go - the M is on the road but at 40 mph. I'll give Jim a call to discuss and see if we can work something out - I want the repair done right. Thanks again and don't worry about the brackets I won't need them until at least Spring time.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 10:17 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I had a similar problem on my 2R C cab. The mice made nests over the years, their urine & moisture corroded the steel through. I had pin holes and areas of thin metal all over. This is almost impossible to weld so I carefully removed the interior sheet metal panel above the windshield between both pillars. This completely exposed the inside surface of the roof. I then wheel sanded it clean /bright took new pieces of sheet metal and started tack welding them covering & strengthening all the bad areas from the inside. This allowed me to tack weld some of the gross holes on the outside surface without blowing through. It also allowed using thin layers of filler/bondo. For the areas around the window channel that had pits, small holes, and the edges partially eaten away I super cleaned it and applied POR-15 filler. This comes in a tube and is the same as their paint except thicker. When it dries it is very hard and can be sanded level. I put on 2 coats smoothing it out with my glove covered fingers. This process work great and didn't cost a fortune!
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 10:57 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Thanks for the description - I need to grind away the filler and see what I have. If it is too far gone I'll cut in the header but if not too far gone I will make an effort to fix similar to your method. Vern is sending the header clip on over so I will have it in case. If I don't use it I will take it to York. Thanks again
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 11:38 AM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Anyone have Turner disks on a suspended pedal Champ?
Jim is out of town for several days, and I was wanting to finish my installation of the brakes this weekend. I bought the deluxe kit, where Jim supplies all components, except the master cylinder. Remember, that the '63/'64 has suspended pedals, so earlier ones may not have similar solutions. The old front and rear drum brakes were fine when I pulled into the garage, good pedal height and firmness.
I have a dual master cylinder existing in the truck, maybe 5-6 years old, and is a '68 Nova cylinder. All worked well with 4 drums, but since I installed the disks, I have a very low pedal, even though I have completely bled both circuits, and the rears are properly adjusted. It takes 3-4 pumps to get a decent pedal height, though the pedal is firm. The first press, the pedal goes to the floor, the second, there is a very low pedal, the third and subsequent are adequate, but still low. There's about 1/2 of free play in the pedal, though I can't measure how much that translates to at the cylinder. So far, I've not even taken the truck off of jack stands, but I can't see how driving it (yikes!) would make any difference.
I don't know if anyone else has had this problem, but if so, how did you solve it?
Posted on Nov 29, 2013, 3:52 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
...did you install the residual pressure valves in the right direction? Your brakes will still work regardless of what direction the valves are installed, but the residual pressure feature won't function if they are backwards. Just a thought.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 2:27 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
FS: Rockwell Standard E302NX12 2 speed rear axle w/shifter housing
Pulled this from a 7E28.
5.93/8.10 ratio. Fluid looks good, from what I can tell. Housing is in good shape. No leaks. 5 lug Budd pattern. I plan on keeping the drums. Local pick up in Fort Collins, CO only. $1500 OBO. I have some pictures available (email me at a b 0 s f@y ahoo dot com), and of course, if you are in the area, you are welcome to stop buy to look at it. I also have a Stude 289, 4-bbl engine and a New Process 5 speed transmission that I am considering selling. Haven't thought about price yet, just what I can do with the space in my garage.
Call 303-815-0849, George.
Posted on Nov 29, 2013, 3:21 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
or home and dinner with our Son and Daughter-in-law and Granddaughter as well with an adult Niece and two Marines. Out Niece volunteers at the Richmond Va. USO and brought 2 of the Marines from Fort Lee. This was the 3rd year we have done this and it is great to be able to share our day with someone who was not able to go home and be with their family's. Hope Everyone had a Great day. Jim and Barb Beadle
Posted on Nov 29, 2013, 8:39 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I looked at the generator again. is spins but has a rough spot in it. It is a delco remy unit.
complete, including the nuts that hold the wire terminals on. Let me know if you want it and we can make arrangements to get it from here to there.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013, 1:43 AM from IP address 220.127.116.11
I am trying to convert to electric wipers on my 49' 2R C cab. The motor bracket is installed and I have the 6volt wiper motor. I also have several arms which look like they are from a vacuum wiper unit. I know the arms on the electric set up have 2 different lengths. The p/n's in the parts book call for a 653202 right arm and a 653211 for the left which I don't have. Does anybody know what the correct lengths are? I am thinking of cutting them and welding back together.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 5:24 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I'm guessing you're talking about the connecting pieces that are under the cowl. If that is the case give me a day or so to check my stash, I may have what you're looking for. Are the parts #'s stamped on the pieces?
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 6:12 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Yes, these are the pieces that are under the cowl and connect with the drive disk on the motor and the wiper arm pivots. The part numbers are on some of the arms I have but these are not the correct length. There should be 2 different length arms. My 1949-50 parts manual calls out 653202 (right) & 653211(left). There are probably more part numbers for the later models which should also work.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 9:13 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Thanks, I will try doing an approximate fit up with the pieces I have. Does the motor mount on the outside of the bracket or the inside under the cowl? I am using a car wiper motor which had a triangular mounting plate so I need to make a new adapter plate to mount the motor to the bracket. If I had some diagrams or pictures I wouldn't be asking all these questions.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013, 10:56 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
The motor mounts on the outside or the engine side of the bracket. The arms that I have are marked 82530 and 82531. I believe the 82531 was the longer of the two. Drop me an e-mail if these can help you. Obviously these are used and have wear.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013, 12:12 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Lee, I checked all the arms I have and found a 82530 and 82531 which you say are the ones for the electric wiper system. The motor drive crank(disk) is attached to one of the other arms so I guess it will have to be removed. There is a swagged rivet holding it on which I assume will need to be cut off and replaced when I install the correct p/n arm onto it. The pin for the other arm is a smaller diameter and looks like maybe a small clip is used to hold the arm on the pin. Is this correct?
Also, it looks like the short arm drives the passenger side wiper.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013, 7:50 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
...actually I'm not sure whether these arms came off of a truck with electric or vacuum wipers, they were in a basket of items I purchased at an estate sale. So we better verify that these are actually the ones you need. In my haste, I assumed that they were correct. I'll do some more investigating tomorrow. Right now, I'm in a food coma.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013, 8:29 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
Thanks to all for the help. The photos and references are great. I should be able to complete the conversion once I have the correct arms or dimensions for the arm lengths. All the different kinds of arms I have do not match and will need to be modified to make them work. Unfortunately if you don't have the exact p/n it is hard to make something else work if there are no dimensions. I can easily modified one of the arms I have if I had a center to center pivot dimension. It looks like there are many different p/n's for that were used for the same purpose. Wasn't the truck electric wiper motor drive system the same on all models after 1949 except for the 12v motor?
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 8:20 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
The early (most) 2R trucks used wiper arms that just had holes in the ends to match the pin on the vacuum wiper motor. I don't have any of those, so don't know how they were marked. When the electric wipers became available, both the mounting strut and BOTH wiper arms were modified. The same right (short) arm (#653202) was then used thereafter on all C-cabs on both the vacuum and electric wipers. The arm is marked with two numbers: 284 and 86828. It is similar to the earlier arms in that it only has a hole on the motor end.
As noted, the longer left arm differs between the vacuum and electric arms. The left arm (653211) for the electric motor has a wheel riveted to it to convert the rotating action of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the wiper arms. It is marked 283 and 86830. The pin-to-pin distance on this arm is 19.75". That measurement, however, is straight across. The arm itself has three different bends in it, and I don't know if those bends match those of the arm used with the vacuum motor. (Ted Jensen may know.) I've got a set of vacuum wiper arms around here somewhere, but couldn't find it this morning.
Posted on Nov 30, 2013, 11:44 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Skip, Thanks for the input. I have a 82530 & a 82531 arm. Someone else said in their post that the 82530 was the same as the 653202 and is the right hand arm.
The 82531 is the same as 653211 which is the left arm. I have a 82530 arm marked 283 which doesn't match your numbers. This is getting very confusing. I understand what the basic changes were between the early center strut vacuum wiper units to the offset strut vacuum and electric wipers units. I have the vacuum wiper arms for the center strut mounted wiper. I removed the center strut and installed the larger offset strut in my 49' 2R. I understand how the electric drive works and have the disk that mounts to the motor that provides the oscillating wiper motion. I will check the 19.75" dimension to see if any of the arms I have are to that dimension. I will also contact Ted. Thanks
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 10:32 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I believe both of the arms you have are from an early 2R. I don't have any of those, but I assume the Trico numbers are 82530 and 82531. As I noted above, and according to the parts book, neither of them will fit the later vacuum and electric wipers. Here is how I decode the Trico numbers stamped on the wiper arms.
86828: 653202, right side, both vacuum and electric, 12" pin-to-pin
86829: 653203, left side, late vacuum only, 19.625" pin-to-pin
86830: 653211, left side, electric only, same as above with rotation wheel attached
I think 19.625 is more correct than 19.75.
In one of his messages, Lee said he wasn't sure from what model his wiper arms came from. It sounds like they're from any early 2R. If you have the arms from a 53 and later truck, even if from a vacuum system, it appears that you only need to attach the rotation wheel. Ted may have figured out how to modify the early 2R arms to work on the electric motor. I can't help you on that one.
Posted on Dec 1, 2013, 12:00 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
...I think the seller has come down some on the price. Actually, aside from the interior, the sheetmetal doesn't look too bad. The front fenders need some massaging. Also appears to have the Commander six.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 2:36 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
But, I actually kind of like the character on it. Reminds me of my 2R11. Maybe better to just fixed it up and used as is vs. trying to restore it unless you are a sheet metal wizard. Get it running, clean it up, do the brakes and put some new treads on it, maybe paint the wheels and put it to work, check wiring, improve the body work a little here and there, interior if needed. Could be a nice truck to use without having to sink a ton of money into it trying to restore it.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 1:18 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
....especially if it were relocated to our part of the country, the body probably wouldn't deteriorate much more. And you probably wouldn't have to worry about anyone parking too close to you in the store parking lot.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 3:09 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
Agree, they would need to get a clear title before I gave them anything for it
And I don't see $1,000 plus trouble worth a parts there. If they have the DMV paperwork (old registration I assume), then they should just file for a lost title and get a new one to go with the truck. But I'm doubting that truck has been registered any time in the recent past, so even that might be a challenge to use.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 3:47 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
I get a message over the Studebaker Truck Farmer web site from Jaime in Columbia.
He asked me about paint color codes for his 1946 M5.
Anyway, he speaks not English and I no Spanish, maybe one of you can help
And will contact Jaime and help him with the question he have.
Anyway, send an email and I'll give you the contact info from Jaime in Columbia.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 3:18 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
paste a sentence into the Google translate tool. On the "new" Google pull down the "apps" button, select "more" at the bottom and then select translate. It will give you a text box and selections for language.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 6:25 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
It's a bad idea getting a used ring without being absolutely sure it's correct for your wheel. Over the service life of a truck wheels get replaced or worked on by guys of all skill levels. If your wheels are Budds there is a part number on the back rim lip that I can look up to direct you to the proper replacement ring. If your wheels are Motor Wheel brand the number should be on the face. If you find no wheel number there should be identifying info on the ring itself. I had this happen to me this week on one of my own wheels. At some time in the past a careless service guy mounted a wrong ring on one of the wheels I was working on. Mine was a correct Goodyear "LW" design but for an incorrect rim width. Even that matters. Stu
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 10:15 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
This might be a way to make this simpler. The common wheel used on M15s was a 17" x 4.33" wide having a Firestone "RH" outer rim. Budd #44820. This has the solid/unbroken ring. If that's what you need, other members having extras of this wheel should be able to help. But be aware that there was also a 17" x 3.75" wide rim that used a different "RH" ring. There was also an "RI" ring that was used on demountable Dayton style rims that I've found on these wheels. Stu
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 10:41 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
If it was me I wouldn't. Welding makes metal more brittle which I'd think would introduce a new risk. That said, all more modern wheels have their centers welded to the rims instead of being riveted. But I'd assume the manufacturing process somehow heat treats the entire wheel to then relieve the stresses caused by the welding. Got any metallurgy engineers here?
I'd start by first figuring out what wheel you have then let me look it up. While most M15s I've come across have that Budd #44820 I mentioned from the factory, it's possibly been changed over the truck's service life. The Budd number will be prominently stamped into the concave side rim lip. If you do have the 44820 number, I pulled some of these off a project truck not long ago and may have an extra ring that you are welcome to have.
But honestly, the safest solution is to replace the old tube types with the tubeless Budd #89340s that are 19.5" x 6". The 8R19.5" tires have the same/similar 33.5"-34" outside diameter as do 7.50" x 17" tube types. The 19.5" rim is technically the tubeless equal of the 17" tube type. They share the very same center disc. John W did this swap and I think is glad he did. I have a set of them available if the idea interests you. Stu
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 5:01 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
disadvantage is that the wheels do not look original. Otherwise, they are great! No worries and these tires will last a good long time. And 19.5" where used enough and more recent that tire will be available for a long time without going to a "reproduction" tire. When they mounted mine I had them put in the balancing powder so there are no weights. Of course 50 MPH is not very fast... My speedo is off though. I'm not sure why but I don't think it is the tire size. As Truckdog says, the old 17" tire diameter and the newer 19.5" tire diameter are essentially the same. I'm seeing approximately 10% difference, when I'm at 50 MPH, I'm actually going closer to 45 MPH. Could be the speedo (have not checked the odometer) or the speedo gearset. I know the differential gear ratio are what is called out in the production order.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 6:18 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
Your difference might be that you have radials. For whatever reason they are a slightly shorter diameter than their bias ply counterparts. On my truck right now are bias ply 8-19.5" traction tires at all four corners which I found used (taken off a fire truck). I mounted up a set of NOS 7.50 x 17 traction tires this week that are the same Courser Traction LT brand. Size by side the tires are indistinguishable but, as you said, the tubeless wheel rim lips are shorter. I'll use the 17s only for shows and rely on the 19.5s for driving. I too put balancing beads in the 19.5s. Four of these pictured are NOS 17s, two are NOS 19.5s. Can you tell the difference? Stu
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 8:02 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52
tire manufacturers spec out the loaded tire diameter (or more correctly, the radius). So I could be seeing the difference because the radials compress more under load than the bias ply. I can live with the speedo being off, heck I only use half the speedo anyway : )
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 8:19 AM from IP address 184.108.40.206
I'm starting to plan my interior and was wondering what folks do to attach the door panels. I plan to purchase 3/16" Masonite and covering it with 1/4" foam and Naugahyde. I could use the original designed snap on fasteners but thought that they might not hold the most substantial panel. I could install 10-32 crimp nuts and use machine screws with those dressy washers. I will also be attaching the kick panels so those will probably need screws...
Any thoughts or opinions?
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 6:39 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
We made my door panels and mounted them with push in clips , That, the window frame and the arm rest holds it tight . Used rod doors ceiling and rear surround , but couldn't see the cost for flat panels. The man who did my interior said he could have done it all without the rod doors pieces.
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 9:28 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I used the stock push-in fasteners on my M door panels. Much like yours, the panels are masonite covered with foam and cloth upholstry material. They've been on the truck a bit over 5 years and 30,000 miles with no problems.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 10:39 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
I'm thinking about using a hidden fastener type like the Dorman 700-414 nylon fastener. I should also be able to use it in other locations, specifically the kick panels and the cab back panels. I'll stop by a U-Pull-It yard to look for an example of the fastener cutout shape so I can attach the fastener to the ABS panel.
..... The thought of a smooth panel without the fastener heads showing appeals to me. There should be enough original mounting holes to hold the panel tight against the door. Now I have to decide whether to foam pad the panel before adding the fabric, I'd appreciate any comments from all you experienced folks.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 2:25 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
The head on those fasteners is not a complete disc. Kind of hard to explain, but they twist into the panel that you are attaching and they should work where you want something that's out of sight. The barbed shank pushes into the hole in the sheetmetal. Kind of a one shot deal if you have to remove them, but they're pretty cheap, I think you can find them hanging on the rack at most auto parts stores.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 2:53 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
Where did you find you ABS board; and what did it cost.
I found a place that sells it, it's about $15 for a 4 x 4 sheet. BUT SHIPPING for one sheet is about $135.
Love to have some for all of my panels and headliner.
Can anyone help.??
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 10:34 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
knob fastener (a type of Velcro) but they require space under the panel so one would have to add material to the edge to space out the panel.
As to the foam; it covers up a good bit of roughness and irregularities. The onlt issue is to trim it away where the door handles and fasteners are, if needed. I plan to use foam of some sort, just adds a bit more padding, more comfort. A lot of headliner material comes with 3/16" foam back.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 3:15 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
When I made door panels for my Daytona I used a water resistant fiberboard that is sold at upholstery supply houses for the purpose. I cut rectangular slots in it for the original pop in fastener clips. The fiberboard is much easier to work with than masonite or ABS sheet. Upholstery supply houses also sell the 1/4" foam with a cloth scrim backing bonded to it for these type applications.
Posted on Dec 2, 2013, 2:08 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
just a note to add to what Vern wrote. The ratios are very close if not the same. The bolt pattern is different and so is the center hole. The T-9 bell housing will not work with a T98. They are totally different and would take quite a lot of work to make usable.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 11:37 AM from IP address 22.214.171.124
If so, I think I'd be hunting down a Champ/T-98 bellhousing along with a T-98 before I go through the effort to redo something with T-9 trans. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a T-98 a vast improvement over a T-9 for that reason.
Well, to be 100% honest, I'd also be looking to replace the Champ motor too while I was at it and going through all the effort anyway. But, that is a different chapter.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 1:25 PM from IP address 126.96.36.199
That listing has been posted for many years, literally, 5-6 at least if not more. I wrote the guy about it once out of curiosity and he replied that he really just keeps posting it as a general advert and leader to inquiries for other Stude stuff he sells. He said he didn't care if he ever sold it or not, was more just about having a listing than anything. It was a short no detail response, so I just left it at that. Not sure who it might be, could even be George DeBono, not sure. But I'm guessing he would have listed his location as Daly City, not Ingleside. They aren't far apart from each other though so who knows. Price is not bad, but shipping would be a nice bit I would imagine. So, just waiting for a local buyer who needs one I guess, takes time for something like that, a lot of time apparently.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 5:44 PM from IP address 188.8.131.52
I just finished a T9-T98 swap on Rolling Stonebaker Pizza's 49 2R16A. Had to have the nose cone turned down 1/8 inch to fit the bell housing. The bolt pattern was the same. Also had the drive shaft shortened 3 inches.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 10:12 PM from IP address 184.108.40.206
Did you buy that Champ near Mabank about a year ago?.
by Jeff S.
I drove hwy 175 about a year ago, noticed a Champ for sale either in Kemp or Mabank, and stopped to check it out. It was a red,long narrow bed that had its dash modified. So is that the one you bought, as I noticed this year it was gone. Just a thought, as you are so close being in Gun Barrel City. Might be just a coincidence?. Hope you find a column. Jeff S.
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 11:26 PM from IP address 220.127.116.11
Have to have them on a photo sharing site like Photobucket, Flickr, etc.
You can then copy and paste the link to the photo here and it shows up. Photo files can't be posted to this site directly. The file has to be stored somewhere else and then the web link just put into your message here for us to reference. That is so the system this site is on doesn't have to have a lot of computers storing the files themselves. It take a lot of computer hard drive space to store photos and videos. This site is on a pretty stripped down basic network that doesn't do that directly so as to keep things pretty basic, simple and cheaper.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013, 4:14 PM from IP address 18.104.22.168
I will look in my garage as I may have what you need. Let me check and get the part number off of the column etc. and get that to you. I live in Ohio but am glad to ship it to you if it works if you'll just pay the shipping it would be yours at no charge. I will look this evening and see if I can locate it for you.
Posted on Nov 29, 2013, 4:26 PM from IP address 22.214.171.124
My 59 scotsman with the big six has a canister oil filter system on it. I know it doesnt do much, but a little better than nothing. My problem is the filter in it has a number of 551107(no brand name) and no one can cross it or find it. For all I know it may not be correct, but that is what is in it. My local parts guy says it is an old Wix number, but discontinued.
Any one have any suggestions
Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 10:47 AM from IP address 126.96.36.199
if it is a one quart size , it would be a C-4 fram. almost all studebakers used C-3 or C-4 fram filters. some used a 2 quart filter, I think it was option on 16 and 17 trucks. I would have to pull a filter out of a two quart to find a number for it.
Posted on Nov 26, 2013, 11:39 AM from IP address 188.8.131.52