I finally got around to taking pictures of my recently acquired 1077AS. I removed the sites, added a ported 4" muzzle brake and a barrel stablizer from Muzzle Mack, a scope, and stuck on a flashlight for kicks. I also recrowned the barrel.

I use the gun for casual target shooting and plinking in the back yard. I made a target holder/pellet trap that works fairly well. Its fairly big and is sort of a shooting gallery. Its got a 30" shelf on which I can place several small target items such as plastic army soldiers and bottle caps. It keeps most of the pellets but I do get the occasional bounce back.

I'm not a very steady shot and I'm most comfortable shooting from about 15 yards. At that range, my groupings are about the size of a tennis ball. I made a steadying stick that helps somewhat. Its just half of an old surf fishing rod and a piece of wood but it works well and is adjustable for height.

I've got about 300 shots through it. The trigger is still fairly stiff. The long trigger pull is the one thing that bothers me most about the gun.

The muzzle brake and barrel stablizer were easy installs and I like the look.

The scope is by Tasco and is 2-6X32 with a blue illuminated cross hair. I got it used on ebay. Its nice but I seem to do a bit of re-zeroing every time I shoot.

I was surprised at the effectiveness of the flashlight. Its a Maglite with a 3 watt LED bulb and 3 AA batteries. It puts out a very bright white light and night time shooting at 20 yards is easy. I made an hour glass shaped mounting block out of wood and used vercro strapping to attach it. By the way, velcro strapping has hooks on one side and loops on the other. They sell it in rolls and you can cut it to length. You simply wrap it around and it holds tight. This is very handy stuff.

I recrowned the barrel using a brass screw mounted in my drill and some toothpaste. I did this after firing only a few shots so before and after performance is hard to judge. It looked OK when I got the gun but now its very nice.

The gun is a bit front-heavy with the Air Source setup and the flashlight. The butt tends to slip up off my shoulder since its just plastic and has little friction to hold it in place. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a rubber butt plate that will help keep the gun planted in my shoulder and will add a bit of length to the stock?

SWEEET!.... pops

I like the muzzle brake.

Nice job on the do it yourself mods. Pretty clever. Thanks for sharing.

I wonder, since the inside rife barrel is thinner than a normal barrel, if it would be easy to choke the end of the barrel to help resize pellets before they leave and possibly make it more accurate. But I suppose recrowning or choking the barrel may not make much of a diffence on a 1077.

My 1077 is used and the trigger may have worn down to 5 pounds. It is pretty smooth. I did oil it wil pell gun oil. The only downside is it could attract dirt and make it worse.

Other airguns just a dab of molly grease on the trigger sear contact point. Sometime I mix 5 parts 30W non detergent motor oil with 1 part molly.

Great looking 1077 you have there! I just ordered myself one from Pyramid Air.com.Mine will use the smaller co2 cartridges, and comes with a 4x32 Centerpoint scope. Can't wait to try it out!!

Jon

I really like your gun especially the brake in the front, What a clean fit.

I just bought a used 1077 and want to put some type of silencer or brake on it, I like the look. Thanks for posting the name of the company.

As for the butt stock
I own a lot of Rifles and Shotguns.
If you buy a buttstock pad for a rife they never fit right. you have to fit it to the gun.

What you do is: Find the butt pad you want, Make sure it is bigger than the one on your rifle.

Trace the outline of your rifles butt pad onto the new one.

Use a table top grinder with a stone on it to get the bulk of the material off. Grind up close to the line but not past it. {The grinder is just a plain 6" two wheel grinder like most of us have on a work bench for shapening the lawnmower blade}

Skrew the new butt pad to your rifle. at this piont it should be bigger than your rifle stock and stick out a little bit past the edges.

Put Masking tape around the butt of your stock to protect it. Maybe about 4" up

Then carefully sand the butt pad with sand paper to the shape of your stock. I like to start with 150 then 220 then 320. You will find yourself replacing or touching up the taped spots from time to time as you're sanding

To remove the final scratches:
Remove the pad again and put a soft buffing wheel on your grinder with some car wax, Applying light pressure. The heat of the wheel created by the light friction along with the wax will polish out the last of the scrathes and leave you with a professional installation.

You can get the wheels and grinders all at Home Depot.

It takes a little practice but it is easy once you get the hang of it and fun if you enjoy this kind of thing.

OR You can buy the butt pad and take it to a gunsmith. For about $50 or $60 they'll do what I just tried to explain.

Thanks for the info. I have since purchased a Limbsaver slip-on recoil pad. It fits well enough and gives the desired amount of additional reach.

how did you get your pics on thepost, cant get mine to load?

9 out of 10 voices in my head told me to do it!!