OUT AND ABOUT
Snake River Grill
L’Auberge du Lac
777 Avenue L’Auberge
Lake Charles
337-395-7565
Evenings starting at 7PM $6 - $46
This operation is an off shoot of an award-winning restaurant of the same name in Jackson Hole Wyoming. At this only other location the chefs have gone to great lengths to tailor their classic menu to local and regional tastes. Entering the restaurant the atmosphere becomes akin to a high-end mountain lodge built from timber and stone harvested on site. A massive fireplace supports this theme and round wood chandeliers sporting huge candles (light bulb in the candles) complete the ambience. White cloth table service with comfortable leather and cloth chairs speaks to a fine dinning establishment, as does everything else.
The menu begins with a category called Shared Starters. They consist of six to eight small portions to be shared by the table. Since there were four in our group we indulged in two of them, Peking Duck Scallion Crepes and Grilled Lamb Chop “Lollipops”. The bright green scallion crepes contained succulent duck meat and crisp duck skin cracklings. It came with a Ponzu dipping sauce. Ponzu is oriental in origin and consists of citrus and soy sauce. The sweet sour flavor of this made a fine counterpoint to the rich earthy crepes. The “lollipops” were six Frenched rib chops cooked a perfect med rare and seasoned well enough to be consumed alone. However a yogurt dipping sauce along with what I took to be Harissa (a spicy chile sauce from North Africa) added new dimensions to the lamb. Both are paired with lamb in their respective cultures, Greek to Moroccan all on the same plate. The bread basket held many delights (Ciabatta, whole wheat rolls, sesame rolls, French bread, etc) all from a famous bakery, La Brea, in the Los Angles area along with an herbed butter, quite delightful
Next on the menu came the First Course or Small Plates. These contain a sufficient amount of food to satisfy one person without spoiling their appetite for the main course. My sister opted for Crab Chowder. They brought a bowl with a ring formed mound of crabmeat and summer vegetable (corn, squash, etc). They then poured a shrimp tomato broth over it. My taste conveyed a light broth filled with the aroma and taste of shrimp and crab. The texture of the vegetables (crisp tender) added to the overall freshness of the dish. My particular friend went for the Crab Cake, which sat on jicama sticks and a green curry sauce. My bite showed a tasty and well formed crab cake with little filler. The contrast between the crisp earthy jicama and sweet crusted crab performed a dance in my mouth. My particular friend’s wife had Fried Green Tomatoes and Lobster. Perfectly fried tomato slices on a remoulade sauce topped by sliced sauteed petite lobster tail. While my taste proved fine I actually prefer the classic New Orleans preparation. Boiled shrimp in a Creole Remoulade topping the tomatoes. I ordered the Baby Back Ribs. I received six riblets encrusted with a Seven-Spice Rub over a Sesame Scallion Slaw. The ribs proved magnificent, tasty and tender but not fatty. However the slaw contained too much cilantro for my taste. This occurred on the fried green tomato dish also so much so that we requested it to be remade, which they did gladly. So a word of warning if you are that genetic disposition that makes cilantro taste like soap please forewarn your server
Now came the Main Course. My sister as is her wont ordered another Small Plate for her entree. Fried Oysters and Spinach salad with a warm bacon dressing and shaved red onion. It looked wonderful and I was assured it tasted wonderful also. I missed my taste of this but I bow to my sister’s taste bud in these matters. My particular friend’s wife opted for Morel Crusted Alaskan Halibut with tarragon polenta and shaved asparagus. While I got no sense of the mushroom the fish was wonderfully moist, flaky and tasty. The slightly lemony flavor of the polenta and the green flavor of the asparagus complement the halibut to a T. My particular friend went for the Crispy Pork Shank. A fantastic bone in portion of meat with a cider glaze that had been slow cooked to perfection. My taste left my mouth salivating. It proved succulent, slightly sweet and the sautéed greens and wild mushrooms added a slight bitter note that accentuated the meat. I had Pancetta Wrapped Quail with marinated black-eyed peas, watercress, and smoked grape tomatoes on a molasses based sauce. The semi boneless quail had been grilled to perfection. The pancetta kept the flesh moist and added a crisp note. I love quail and this is one of the best versions I have ever had, simple and perfect with the flavor of the quail coming through. Unfortunately the black-eyed peas were underdone for my taste but the smoked tomatoes more than made up for it. I could have made a meal of these morsels of indescribable deliciousness. Melt in you mouth with lovely smoky flavor.
The table shared a Bourbon Creme Brulee and Mango Sorbet (in house) for dessert. The custard was still warm from melting the Maple Sugar for the crust. This crust passed the crackle test with flying colors. As good an example of this dessert that I have ever tasted. The mango sorbet proved smooth, ice free and tasted of the essence of Mango. As far as I was concerned this was as good as it get and the table seemed to concur.
Our server proved excellent. There when we needed her but not hovering. Our before dinner drinks expertly prepared. The wine list offered a wide range in both price and wineries. A dozen by the glass wines reflected this also. The bottle of wine picked for dinner proved perfect, a fruit forward and spicy Zinfandel with soft tannins. I want to thank the manager here for affording my companions and me the opportunity to sample such a wide range of the restaurant offerings. The amount of interesting things on the menu will probably lead me back here.
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Arthur "The Bear" Hebert
Omnivorus and Loving It
