ABOUT AND BEYOND
Zoe
W Hotel (2nd floor)
New Orleans LA
504-207-5018
7:00 AM - 10:30 PM Breakfast
11:00 AM - 2:30 PM Lunch
5:30 PM - 10:00 PM Dinner
Located in the stylish W Hotel this restaurant leans to the stylish also. It is also comfortable with over stuffed chairs with yellow cushion backs and seats before white linen and silverware table settings. Low lighting from the concentric glass chandeliers and candles on the tables lends a romantic atmosphere. I have eaten here twice before but that was many years ago. This occasion was the Vintner dinner at NOWFE. This consisted of seven courses with multiple wines with each course. Since the wines were from boutique Australian wineries and not widely available I am not going to mention them. However they were well chosen and complimented the meal.
The Amuse Buche was an Oyster and Jelly Sampler. Oysters on the half shell topped with Horseradish, Fennel and Lemon jellies. This sounded wonderful in concept but the execution fell way short. The jellies held little flavor and were too liquid. The oyster flavor overpowered them instead being complemented. Presentation was excellent.
Seared Sea Scallops on a bed of creamy Tuscan Corn Grits and topped with a Chanterelle Mushroom and Heirloom Teardrop Tomato Ragout made up for the poor showing of the oysters. They cooked the scallop perfectly, crusty exterior and just cooked interior. The grits echoed the sweetness of the scallop while the contrasting texture made it interesting. The earthiness of the ragout with its touch of tomato acid caused a juxtaposition of flavors that dance on my tongue. A side salad of baby Argula added a peppery note.
Braised Kobe Beef Short Ribs lay under another ragout of mushrooms consisting of Morels, Trumpets, and Chanterelles with Black Truffle Essence. Shredded potato wrapped Asparagus accompanied it. The earthiness of the stew heightened the beefy taste but the ribs proved very chewy. I suspect not enough cooking time. The contrast of the clean crisp potatoes and the green grassy soft asparagus got my attention.
Crisp Spiced Duck Breast with Orange Gastrique served with Braised Fennel and Potato Gallette clearly constituted the star of the evening. The breast proved tender, moist, and wonderfully flavorful. The richness of the breast cut by the citrus notes of the sauce and anise flavored vegetable proved a delightful combination. The potato added a silky note.
Herb Crusted Lamb Chops marinated in olive oil, Lavender, and Rosemary served with Israeli Cous Cous and a Honey Lavender Lamb Jus stood out also. However the lamb as a three rib rack with no sort of suitable utensil to cut it. I hacked away at with the table knife and gnawed the meat off the bone. Not a pretty site but the rosemary infused lamb was worth it. The lavender lent a floral note that suited the meat. The cous cous consisted of semolina pasta way larger than normal. They were the size of BBs. Mixed with sautéed vegetables it proved tasty
Veal Trio consisted of Seared Veal Loin, Sweet Bread, and Liver served with Yukon Gold Potato Confit, Butter Poached Haricot Vert, and Roasted Pearl Onion Jus. Unfortunately the loin suffer the same problem as the beef rib, too chewy. A product of overcooking this time I think. The sweet bread and liver were to my taste. I will eat liver in anyway, shape, or form. Sweet Breads have mild live taste to them so I love them. The onion sauce certainly enlivened the favor of everything. The vegetables were undercooked for my taste.
Passion Fruit Symphony comprised of a trio of Sorbet, Creme Brule, and Souffle ended the meal on a high note. They were presented in little upscale aluminum foil baking dishes. The souffle topped off with passion fruit syrup. The sorbet was smooth, slightly sweet, and refreshing. The creme brule crackly crust hide a wonderfully flavor custard
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Arthur "The Bear" Hebert
Omnivorus and Loving It
