I purchased a 3300 RPM, non lockup converter for my 89 mustang with the AOD. I also purchased a 1 piece hardened input shaft. What is involved in swapping out the 2 piece shaft with the 1 piece shaft?
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You have to disassemble the transmission to install the one piece input shaft.
Is your new converter made to use the onpiece input shaft? if not then it won't fit.
Yes the converter is a non lock up type, designed for the 1 piece shaft. They were purchased as a package unit from Redneck Performance converters. When you say the trans has to be torn down, are we talking the removal of the pump assembly, or is it more complicated than that?. I have a spare blown up AOD in the shop I could practice on?. I also have the Badshoe DVD that I've yet to watch?
Thanks Ken. It sounds to me like I might as well rebuild the whole thing since I have to tear it apart to install the shaft. The only thing that has kept me from trying is the special tools. Any way of getting around the lip seal installers?
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One last question. I watched the Badshoe video (very informative, highly recommended, and I now understand what needs to be done to swap the shafts. The question is, the stock inner input shaft (small diameter), goes through the larger shaft. On the inner shaft, both ends are splined. Once installed in the tranny, what do the splines engage with once they protrude through the drum, and why does my new 1 piece shaft not have the small splines that protrude through the drum on the stock shaft?. The stock inner shaft is also 1" longer than the aftermarket 1 piece, and this is due the the lack of the smaller spline on the 1 piece shaft (tranny end). Does any of this make sense?
I can explain the length, but your other question about where they go and all that I am unsure how to answer correctly...once you tear down the trans it is all very obvious...so save that question for later.
The AOD converter for use of the 2pc input shaft is DEEP and has splines for the hallow fwd shaft and the middle dir shaft. THe Dir shaft is driven 1:1 and splined to the converter back hub, no fluid coupling. The hallow shaft is splined to the converter turbine in the middle. The ONE PEICE is non lock only, and is driven by the converter turbine ALL the time, and since the dir shaft is basicaly added to the back of it, it is powered by the turbine as well now, NO LONGER THE converter hub.
So, you don;t need the extra 1" that would extend beyond the hallow shaft into the converter.
Now, converter wise, you have to have a converter that is buit for the one peice, and you will see there is no spline in the converter hub for the dir shaft that used to exist. The STOCK CONVERTER or any converter that retains the 2pc will have 3 sets of splines - stator, turbind, dir shaft.
What the ONE PEICE is doing is simply ELIMINATING the direct drive feature of the trans - it is weak under power over 500. The con is obviously fuel efficeincy goes out the window.
Thanks Silverfox. That clafifies this quite a bit. After reading your reply, I took a look at the new shaft and converter (it's a non-lockup and they came as a matched set), and I have been looking at it the wrong way. The new shaft has the small diameter splines on one end only (vs the stock shaft having these splines on both ends), and I thought that was the end that went into the converter. I now know this is wrong. I just took the shaft, and installed the large spline into the converter and it fits properly. The other end has a large spline that is pressed into the drum, while the smaller spline protrudes through the drum and engages the direct clutch. It's tough being a newbie!
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Just about impossible without but you can try 'tucking' the lips in with a very thin feeler gauge. Did that once (it worked!) but since invested in the lip seal installers.
I think I'm going to invest in the lip seal installers. This will be my 1st rebuild (89 mustang), but my Son also has one (86 F150). His has been rebuilt 3 times in the past 2 years by 3 different shops. The seal installers would have more than paid for themselves by now.
I agree on the lip seal tools....they are worth the extra, and supprised Ken and other co. don't sell them with the manuals and vids.
On STAMPED STEEL drums it is easy to tuck the lip seals...on cast it is damn near imposible. The 4R is also much easier INT pistons seal as well.
