Hello I recently rebuild my e4OD out of a 97 7.5L F250. When I took it for a ride and it shifted very well untill it tried to downshift out of overdrve. The truck seemed to be held back untill it downshifted into 3rd then it started to make a whining noise from the front of the transmssion so I drove it 2 miles home and pulled out the tranny. What I found was the od sprag come apart and the rollers locked up the inner and outer races also it burnt the od and coast clutch packs. Could I of installed the od sprag upside down or could of it just been faulty? Also is the od sprag the only cause to the burnt out clutch packs or is there any other factors that could of caused this? I am pretty new at this and dont want to miss anything. Please any info would help!
Why was the trans rebuilt? Major problems or just freshening it up?
The OD sprag is kind-of a weak point on the E4OD.
Yes it can be installed "backwards" or "up-side down".
....but if the OD sprag is installed backwards the trans won't move fwd in the "OD" position. You would have to push the OD cancel button, or pull the lever down to 2 or 1 to get FWD motion.
Hopefully, if such was the case, you would have noticed the trans not moving FWD in OD...... and also noticed that you had to cancel OD or pull the lever down to get FWD motion.
The only time it would move forward in OD with the OD sprag installed backwards... is if someone did a modification to the valvebody to apply the coast clutch in all FWD ranges. (the coast clutch would/should still release when the trans shifted to OD at highway speed, in fact it HAS to release at that time).
It is very likely the piled-up sprag is the cause of the burnt OD and coast packs.
Now you need to determine why the sprag piled-up.
Did you flush the cooler?...they are known to get plugged.....
Lack of lube/cooler flow has killed many an E4OD trans... The cooler return feeds the rear lube circuit...so it is VITAL that the cooler flow freely.
Usually the cooler flow problem gets noticed because if it's really plugged... the L/U convertor comes on and stalls the engine as soon as you put the trans in gear.
The bad part is, a partially plugged cooler won't always put the L/U on.... but it will restrict flow enough to kill the trans.
You MUST check cooler flow. I can't emphasize this enough. 1 quart in 60 seconds must flow from the cooler return line with the engine at idle.
Disconnect the rear line at the trans and attach a hose to the line. Put the open hose end in a graduated container and get a stopwatch and someone to help. Have them fire the engine and let it idle. You watch the flow and time how long it takes to get 1 quart in the container.
We have changed MANY coolers on E4OD trucks because they would not flush/flow properly.
By changed I mean... install BRAND NEW cooler assemblies.
If your trans was really "killed" and that's why you rebuilt it... it's likely the cooler is plugged.
The OD sprag and OD planet get lube from the FRONT lube circuit. It is known for the stock plastic front lube/drain back vavle to melt and cause lube flow problems.
This message has been edited by galaxiex from IP address 142.59.167.231 on Sep 5, 2011 6:57 PM This message has been edited by galaxiex from IP address 142.59.167.231 on Sep 5, 2011 6:53 PM This message has been edited by galaxiex from IP address 142.59.167.231 on Sep 5, 2011 6:45 PM
I rebuilt the transmission because of hard part failure both forward and od planets were bad also the od clutch was fried. I used an alto kit and a transgo tugger shift kit. I did flush the cooler but never checked the amount of flow. I do not know what to do my wife wants me to bring it to a shop and I already spent enough on it.
Yes I did replace the torque converter and I do believe it updates the front lube / drainback valve but I will have to double check. This problem is most likely the result in lack of lube? Other than the cooler and the valve is there any other factors that could of caused this? I'm going to tear back down the rest of the tranny to check out the rest of it. Let me also say that for as little I drove it the od clutch was fried and the coast clutch just a little.
Yes I did replace the torque converter and I do believe it updates the front lube / drainback valve but I will have to double check. This problem is most likely the result in lack of lube? Other than the cooler and the valve is there any other factors that could of caused this? I'm going to tear back down the rest of the tranny to check out the rest of it. Let me also say that for as little I drove it the od clutch was fried and the coast clutch just a little.
Which style of OD sprag do you have? Is it the "slipper" type or the spring and roller type?
Did you install a new sprag element? (either slipper or spring and roller)
I have found the slipper type ALWAYS needs replacing on high mileage trannys.
Look closely/carefully at the "tips" of the slipper elements and if you can see approx 1/16 wear mark, kinda "flattened" looking tip that contacts the inner and outer race, the sprag is junk.
If you install a worn slipper type... it will "pile up" in a very short time. The slipper elements will "flip over" in operation and make a big mess.
It is the roller and spring type. I did check the front lube drainback valve and it is fine but I did buy the sonnax upgrade. The rest of the clutch packs all look fine. I order the od and the coast clutch packs and going to reassemble but want to make sure that there is nothing elese that could cause cause this like something in the pump, valve body or anything else. Thanks for your help.
Install all the guts and torque the center support bolts.
Before installing the valve body, lay a straight edge across the valve body surface of the case. Pay special attention in the area where the bolts are, that go into the center support. Check all directions, fore and aft, side to side, and diagonal.
Try to slip a feeler gauge between the case and the straight edge. If it's really warped you will be able see quite the gap with just eyeballs.
Ideal is perfectly flat case with the center support bolts torqued. Allowable is up to 0.0015"..... if it's 0.002 or more = no good.
Sonnax has a shim kit to give more support/prevent case warp.
Some O/H kits also have thicker VB gaskets to help "compensate" for a warped case.
This message has been edited by galaxiex from IP address 142.59.163.196 on Oct 29, 2011 6:26 PM This message has been edited by galaxiex from IP address 142.59.163.196 on Oct 29, 2011 6:23 PM
Finally about to reassemble double checking everything I did find one thing but not sure. When I air check the forward drum it makes a good thug no hissing but if i place it on the center support and air test there it seems that i get a little air blow by. It seem like it is coming from where the two sealing rings meet the inside of the center support hub. The center support hub does have a slight ring wore on the inside right about where the inner sealing ring touches. The ends of the sealing rings are staggered. I do not think this little air leak is normal nor the slight ring worn in the inside of the support hub. Can some one shed some light on this, should I be replacing the center support hub? It also does the same when I check it installed.
ANY wear in a location that sealing rings ride/seal is not acceptable!
(I will admit to assembling trannys with a tiny bit of wear showing on sealing ring surfaces....and I do mean a "tiny" bit of wear....... but only after polishing on a lathe..)
I need some help. I have been trying to rebuild this trany for some time now and I have had troubles along the way. The problem I still am having is with the forward drum and clutch. When I rebuilt the forward clutch and drum I air checked it by itself and it had no leaks what so ever. So when I placed it on the center support and air checked there was some blow by. I checked everything and found some wear on the inside of the center support where the forward drum sealing rings ride. I repalced the center support with a new one, replaced all the sealing rings again, staggered all the seams 180, placed everything in the transmission all the way to the center support and air checked it again and it still is leaking. I air tested this dry then added some fulid and it still is the same. I cannot seem to find what is wrong, everything is new except for the forward drum but it is not worn anywhere that I can find. Any thoughts would help.
One last time but first I must say thank you for all the help! I was air checking the coast clutch on the pump, when I apply air it engages the clutch good with no leaks there but I do get air coming out of the oil feed hole on the drum. The seals on the stator are new, the coast clutch drum is in good shape. Just not sure again if is this normal? Thanks again
I need some help. I have been trying to rebuild this trany for some time now and I have had troubles along the way. The problem I still am having is with the forward drum and clutch. When I rebuilt the forward clutch and drum I air checked it by itself and it had no leaks what so ever. So when I placed it on the center support and air checked there was some blow by. I checked everything and found some wear on the inside of the center support where the forward drum sealing rings ride. I repalced the center support with a new one, replaced all the sealing rings again, staggered all the seams 180, placed everything in the transmission all the way to the center support and air checked it again and it still is leaking. I air tested this dry then added some fulid and it still is the same. I cannot seem to find what is wrong, everything is new except for the forward drum but it is not worn anywhere that I can find. Any thoughts would help.
Thanks that seemed to work do you know what the od clutch pack clearence is suppose to be. I have the alto power pack and after air checking it, it is around .052.
