Attempting to get five frictions in the reverse high clutch. I can do it if I ditch the thick pressure plate and use two thinner steels in it's place. However, that only leaves me at .025 clearence between the made up two steels pressure plate and the snap ring. It calls for a minimum of .050. Will I be O.K. with the .025 clearence?
Additionally, I talked to a trans rebuilder near me who I've dealt with for years about the "two steel" pressure plate system I'm contemplating using. He's encouraged me to try the c4 rebuild on my own as I've done more than a few toploaders, and he's been quite helpfull. However, he's adamant that the two steel pressure plate set up will flex and for sure burn up the frictions. He also said the the red frictions in his opinion are pretty much junk and will fall apart. My originals were fine and he told me to put those back in and be done with it.
But I've already got the red frictions in the forward clutch assembly and was hoping to get the five frictions in the high clutch as I thought that was a desireable modification.
And the trans parts place here in chicago has everything so far except the different thickness selective snap rings. I'm trying to button this thing up so any help is appreciated.
that may allow you to go 5 , I wouldn't do the twin steels as a pressure plate, but as for the .025 clearance , Id leave it , the instant its used it will shed some and the clearance will open up , I run even tighter in the forward as its only disengaged in reverse and , I don't back up at 50 mph
well the steels i have measure out at approximately .080. The trans parts place only goes as thin as .075 IIRC. That still wont give me enough clearence.
I read another forum thread where they had used two steels stacked as a pressure plate without issue. This tranny is going in the daughters 67-F-100 behind a 331 with no power adders. If I go that route ( teo steels stacked) I'm hoping that works in my favor.
Appreciate the response and glad to hear that .025 is do-able
O.K. Just saw your response after I posted mine to the first fella.
The forward pressure plate is the one with the bump or ridge on it correct? Thats do-able. I'm guessing any good machine shop should be able to cut a new groove. Any potential for the forward clutch assembly to hit the snap ring if its been raised and not seat fully into the reverse high clutch?
Thanks for the option by the way. Much appreciated
This message has been edited by BlueOvalDave from IP address 220.127.116.11 on Oct 24, 2011 8:05 PM
O.K. I assembled it with the pressure plate from the forward clutch. When I put the two clutch assemblies together and turn them there's the slightest bit of rubbing from the ridge on the pressure plate. Any ideas as to how much I need to take off? Is it just an amount where there's no rubbing? Once the assemblies are together theres no way to measure interference.
This seems like it's going to be the way for me but I want to have an intelligent answer for the machinist tomorrow!
And I appreciate all those who took the time to respond! Thanks again, dave
Set the end play first.
The small washer on the stator support controls this.
Once proper end play is established you can set clearance for the direct drum. Specs .008 - .042.
I like .020.
The direct drum is not needed to set the end play.
After this has been established stand the stator support up, install the selected small washer. Install a selective large washer, trial and error here, place the direct drum on the support followed by the forward drum.
( Do not install any sealing rings yet ).
Now lift up on the direct drum, I like about .012 clearance. Any more and there is a possibility of cutting off pressure by the drum being out of position with the sealing rings.
If the drums scrape try installing a thicker small washer until there is enough clearance. Subtract the difference and that's how much to shave off the pressure plate. You could also take a cut off the forward drum where the plate touches.
Thanks Stuart, I'll give that a go. Am I correct in understanding that the clamping force in the drums when fluid pressure ia applied comes from the bottom, as in when I do the air check to see that the steels and frictions are moving?
Will there be any clamping force (or pressure) applied to the top (or ridge) of this pressure plate? The reason I ask is that it obviously will still have a "crown" if you will as opposed to being perfectly flat.
Much thanks for the help, I'm enjoying this build and the learning curve of the intracacies of the c4.
By the way, would you be the fella I've been posting to on the other forum? I'm not trying to play both ends against one another, it just seems like the c4 doesnt raise many eyebrows over there as opposed to the AOD.
If I understand this correctly, should I be able to just sand/grind/polish off the required amount from the ridge of the pressure plate, as opposed to a machine shop doing the work, especially if all I need is a couple of thousanths to eliminate the rubbing?
I have it buttoned up with .020 on the endplay which I think is acceptable.
Going thru the valve body now and hope to have my convertor in a couple days. I realize that the thing could blow on it's first pass but thats ok, I'll just tear into it again and see what I screwed up.
Once again, thanks for taking time to answer some basic questions.
I've run into another snag. While cleaning the valve body prior to shift kit install I seem to have mixed up the springs on the 2-3 backout plunger. One appears to be red the other purple and while they are the same length theres definately a difference in tensile strength. My shift kit does not give the color codes for the OEM springs. I'm gonna hunt around on the net for the answer.