Pete's Ponies (Login PetesPonies) from IP address 18.104.22.168
I have an '84 Bronco II with originally a C5. I put a FSB V8 engine in it and adapted the stock C5.I changed the bellhousing and torque converter. I also changed the valve body to one from a C4. Putting a V8 in was a big job and I did a lot of things a long the way to make it look stock. Bottom line is along with my work and other cars, I spent a long time doing this, on and off.When I finally got ready to start the rebuilt engine, I had only put one nut on the TC, and it wasn't tight. I forgot about this and started the engine. I immediately heard a rapping sound. The engine ran maybe 5 seconds. I started it agin to hear the noise again, maybe 10 -15 seconds. It finally dawned on my what I had done, forgotten the other nuts. I then put the other three nuts on and tightened them up. I started the engine again and the noise was much less, but still there. I put the trans in gear and nothing. I went through all the gears, nothing. When I went to put it back in park, it would not go easily, clicking, then finally dropping into park. So . . sound familiar?? Running it those few seconds with the TC loose messed up the pump?? or?? How about the parking paw clicking and not wanting to go back in? Seems all these things are related . . what have I done?? Thanks
The loose nuts would not have hurt anything. Just check the converter is actaully tight. A normal nut may bottom on the studs and not hold it tight..
As for the other verify the linkage is adjusted correct .
The clicking when puting it in park tells me that either the transfer case is in neutral or the trans output shaft is no longer connected to the transfer case input shaft (dont think that possiable if they are bolted together)
The trans output shaft is spining up with nothing connected, thats why it grinds going into park
I will check that. With the awful sound, that thought never crossed my worried mind So hopefully I didn't have the transfer case engaged, now what about the sound assuming nothing is cracked as its all new.
Mustang RUSToration & Performance
This message has been edited by PetesPonies from IP address 22.214.171.124 on Mar 22, 2012 7:11 PM
you did tighten the flexplate to crank bolts when you put it together.
I cannot see the loose convetor nuts doing any damage to the pump or the convertor in that short a run time. check the transfer case and hopefuly it's in neutral, put it in gear then load up the trans. Make sure it's full of fluid and see how it goes.
I had a knock coming from the convertor area of my sons 67 stang at idle after we put it together, checked everything-found nothing wrong. After a month of driving it it went away, never did find out what it was.
I checked my adjustment on the transfer case and it was indeed off a bit. So the case wasn't engaged. So that dodged a big one there with something very simple to correct. Like I said, when I heard the knocking . . I went into panic mode. wasn't thinking what could be wrong that was an easy fix. Anyway, that part is fine now. Now the knock . . I looked more into it . and found the weight on the flexplate had wear marks on it. I used a die grinder with a stone and went over the weight. It immediately made a difference in the sound, so I did some more. Understand this is doing very little to the overall weight of this piece. I'm barely making a change. But I did this several times, and it gets better and better, but doesn't go completely away unless you let it run for about 30 seconds, then nothing. I turn it off, grind a bit more and the noise is still there when I start it back up, but again goes away.Any ideas?
the engine, its all fresh. I know all about the different Ford smallblocks and correct parts. This is what I do. So its a correct flexplate, at least from the correct box No, the engine runs smooth, no problem. Just that it appears thw weight was hitting . . possibily a oil gallery plug?? The starter is a stock on, thought about pulling it out to see if there are any hit marks.If it were, maybe some slight grinding. I have never had a situation like this before with any Ford SB I built or even worked on. So clearance being an issue is weird.
If that is in fact the problem with the weight , it is possible the converter has not been seated correctly and the flexlate has been bent on installation.. Something out of whack there if that weight is hitting. IMO grinding the weight sure isn;t a good fix , you need to find out whay or what it is hitting
not normal, but when you look at the "hunk" of steel that is welded on, doesn't seem difficult to imagine it being off a bit. If clearances are that close to begin with, wouldn't take too much of a sloppy weld to stick it out a tad more. I believe the TC is seated correct, all studs came right through and the nuts are all showing the same amount of threads exposed.
Pete, was just thinking. How about a starter bolt that is to long. As I remember it the starter bolts up to the bellhousing with the bolts heading toward the flexplate, 1 thats to long could wind up in the flexplate area.
Also do you have a block plate between the engine and the bellhousing, it's required on all auto trans small blocks that I have seen.
If I am reading this right you have already compromised the engine by grinding on the counterweight. That will come back to haunt you very soon. I would pull the trans and investigate where the error is made. If properly assembled there should be no hitting of any of the componets you mentioned. Do your self and,if this is a customers Bronco, them a favor and make it right. Just my 2 cents
by me grinding the weight slightly is minuscule. It has done nothing to the balance of the engine, well within specs. That's not an issue. However, I do believe I know why its hitting and will report that when I am positive.