Hello, what the best product for lubricate and handcuffs care? WD-40 or Gunk Liquid Wrench L312C.

Because somebody told me as that Gunk Liquid Wrench L312C ( http://www.gunk.ca/products/automotive/lubricantspenetrants.html )
( http://ken-co.com/gunk/l312c.htm ) were not to be used for the lock, therefore not good for handcuffs. I would like to know if that is true.

Excuse my language because my english is not good.

Believe it or not, I've been using a few drops of regular vegetable oil. It shines and lubricates them up real nice. WD40 could work too I guess.

Good Luck,
Mr. Security

I used to clean a lot of handcuffs and was always looking to find the best protectant and lubricant for the unpolished or unplated items typical of what you might see in a museum.

The solution I came up with and frankly I havent found anything to equal it is spray silicone.

After I clean the irons with either WD40, or Flitz
I would then spray a coat of the silicone on wait a minute or two then wipe off and repeat.

This has afforded nice dark rich looking protective finishes that have lasted for years.

Hope this helps

I use gun oil on my cuffs, but I own guns, so there is always some around. But a gun oil is typically low in viscosity, has good rust preventative qualities, and doesn't gum. I mostly use Rem Oil, but that is as much because it is available at WalMart, as any other reason. A two ounce bottle should last you for years.

Almost any mineral oil will do. Avoid automotive engine oils, as their additives, while great inside an engine, can cause corrosion out in free air.

I don't particularly like WD-40 for fine items, as I have heard of gumming problems. OTOH, I literally buy it by the gallon to use in the shop.

For normal handcuff locks, I'd not worry about a little oil. Don't soak the cuffs in oil, or they'll be a mess forever. Pin and disk tumbler locks should not be oiled, as gumming can be a real problem, there. I use graphite on locks.

You don't want much oil on the cuffs. They should not look oily. I rub them down with a slightly oily rag, and then with a dry one to take the oil sheen off. Or I use a silicone gun rag after handling.

My older S&W handcuffs came from the factory with a dab of lead graphite on the pawl, though my more recent S&W 104 cuffs are completely graphite free. Perhaps on the newer models it isn’t as noticeable, but the old model 9x cuffs had a very stiff action – even after lots of use – due to some of the strongest springs in the industry.

I’ve experimented with a number of cleaners and lubricants over the years. I once tried spraying my duty cuffs down with Break Free, but this left a sticky residue on them. If you can keep them free from rain and excessive moisture, an occasional douching of WD-40 might be all you’ll ever need on a pair of modern handcuffs. For antique cuffs and those with more sophisticated locking mechanisms, I have found that my Teflon based crossbow lubricant works wonders in the locks.

Regards,
Jason

Thanks for your response

griffin uses snake oil. he manufactures the stuff.

snake oil for griffin. he oozes the stuff