*1985 Mustang GT hatch back.
*D&D tube K member with tube A-arms.
*D&D coil over stuts on front.
*Welded in Southside Frame conectors.
*Harwood Glass 4" cowl lift-off hood.
*Harwood Glass rear Hatch lid with Lexan window.
*Interior gutted, No carpet,headliner,rear seat,consol,nothing behind dash, no heaterbox,glove box, wiring,etc... Nothing but 2 bucket seats, B&M shifter, gas and brake pedal, and a steering wheel.
*Exterior parts removed include, No bumpers front or rear, stock gas tank removed,no windsheild wipers or motor, Plastic replacment headlights, Not glass.
*12 gallon harwood fuel cell.
*alum manual brake master cylinder.
*manual steering.
*weld drag light wheels.
*8.8 rear end, 3:27 gear, South side lift bars.
* Battery moved to rear.
Motor
*71 351C bored 30 over, all sharp edges smoothed,lifter valley polished, ARP Studs.
*2V heads(OC)Milled 55 thousands, Hardened EX seats,screw in studs, Manley guide plates, Manley pushrods,Comp Cam roller tip rockers,Ferria SS valves, Heat crossover welded close. Mild port and polish.
*Hooker mustang swap Headers for 2V Clevland
*Edelbrock performer intake.
*Holley 750 carb.
*Carter electic fuel pumps.
*Lunati Streetmaster cam. (Thanks Joe!)
*Speed-Pro forged Flat top pistons.
*Speed-pro Moly rings.
*Stock rods, beams polished with pro series ARP rod bolts.
*Stock crank with bob weights polished, turned 10/10.
*After market balancer.
*Federal bearings.
*Melling HV oil pump, ported and polished interal cavity.
*Canton 7 QT oil pan, Duell sump.
*Mallory unilite distributor also have comp 9000 dis for it.
*MSG 6AL box.
*MSD timing retard box.
*Aluminum wather pump.
*underdrive pulleys.
*125 Shot of spray (When ever I feel like going that far!)
*C-4 tranny with B&M shift kit.
*Custom stall conv. Suppost to be around 2500 stall.
*Aluminum driveshaft.
*Driveshaft safty loop.
on edit, title changed, -blizz
This message has been edited by blizzardND on Aug 6, 2009 11:44 AM This message has been edited by Skooter351 on Sep 19, 2004 4:53 AM This message has been edited by Skooter351 on Sep 18, 2004 7:27 PM This message has been edited by Skooter351 on Sep 18, 2004 6:14 PM This message has been edited by Skooter351 on Sep 18, 2004 6:04 PM This message has been edited by Skooter351 on Sep 18, 2004 6:03 PM
Sell the intake on Ebay and buy a Weiand X-cellerator IF you stick with 2v's.
Is the carb a DP or vac secondary?
I don't know the cam. No opinion on that without some specs.
Need more converter.
Probably don't need the high volume pump. Most of us use stock volume pumps. At the RPM's a C can turn it can empty the pan. I don't know how hard you are spinning yours but mine sees 7000 fairly frequently.
If you do alot of track time you might start thinking bout 4v's. And a change in combo to match.
Kevin
I think others will chime in here pretty quick. but that cam is nothing to write home about. Clevelands need a split duration, and a lot more lift. But, I've never messed with the 2 barrel heads.
Seems like if you want to run 11's, you should get the good stuff. Start with 4V heads and some cam. close to .600 lift would be more in the ball park. Comp has some good ones off the shelf. Get some gear. Lots of it.
spending all that cash on a 2V head, wimpy cam set up with no gear seems like frustration.
No reason to be on your own here. plenty of guys are running faster. Just copy exactly what they do. don't deviate a bit. And the car will run the number.
I made 500 HP with a just under .600 lift cam, 12.5 compression, Holley strip dominator, and 850 DP.
A common misconception is that all clevelands require a split duration camshaft. As a matter of fact, the 2v cleveland does not. You see, the exhaust to intkae flow ratio is so high that a split duration cam may actually cause harm to horsepower and torque.
Another misconception is that the 2v heads don't make power. Many aussie headed 2v engines are running deep into the 11s, the only difference being a small combustion chamber. The open chamber 2v can make power, you just need a competent head porter to do some work to it. When ported, they can flow enough to support about 500hp. Just add a decent sized cam, some headers, and a single plane intake (preferrably one of those aussie ones).
I say its good to be different. Then again, the 2v will be more expensive I would say, so its really your choice.
