Haha ... that's what a friend said to me after I told him about a router fix I did.
I have this Asus RT-N10+ router that I bought a couple of years ago on recommendation of a young computer enthusiast. The price on it was good -only $25 at Staples- and he said that with the firmware changed to DD-WRT ... it would be turned into a "$1000 router."
Well, it turned out that there was a REASON why the price was so low; the thing wouldn't stay connected for more than a day. It would simply go off-line even though the lights were lit in front. Lights on/nobody home.
I took it out of routing duty and utilized it as a repeater or "range extender" in order to increase signal strength to my wife's computer on the top floor.
It would work for a period of time and then quit. Sometimes it would keep working for a few weeks before going dead but it was never reliable.
The strange thing about it was that it WOULDN'T recover with the usual, "unplug, count to 30 and replug." (I never COULD figure out why routers need so much time of no power and replug ... in order to reboot/recover.)
This router needed a half an hour of no power
... before it would reboot.
That told me "something" at least...
It was needing to have its power capacitors completely drained before it would find the correct info in order to reboot ... and ... if it needed so MUCH time, it would mean that there was almost no drain on these caps if the voltage fell to a certain threshold level.
Well, if draining time was the issue ... I sure could fix that!
The input power from the wall adapter is 12 volts. The output power of the adapter is rated at "500 milliamps" ... which is half an amp.
Multiply volts X amps ... give a maximum power output of 6 watts. (Pretty hefty, seeing as the radio output power is only 70 milliwatts or .07 watts.
So I calculated a resistance that would do a continual drain of about 2.5 milliamps on 12 volts input.
12v/.0025a = 4800 ohms
4700 ohms would be just about right, I figured.
I opened the router -(screws hidden under the 4 rubber feet, which need to be pried out to find the screws) ... and then soldered this resistor across the input power connections ... like this...
Tested the thing and it worked perfectly!
It may still lose connection with a power hiccup or offage but ... at least now it RECOVERS itself after a momentary power-out.
So, if anyone else has such a router problem and is a bit adventurous ... try it. It's called a "bleeder resistor" and drains the caps within a second after power input has stopped. Unplug/replug ... with NO COUNTING needed in between ... and it recovers every time now ... within 15 seconds after being repowered.