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Open since July 17, 1999
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Hi guys. I've bought a Honda NC50 Express and it hadn't been run for a year, but it was stored. Fresh petrol was put in, and it ran fine. But after I rode off with it, I hit about 30MPH and lost all power, it was just bogging out. I started it and it didnt do it for a while, as I rode it round a field for a while. But again I hit about 30MPH and it died. So I took it home. Now I can ride it for about 1 min. and it will just do the same. I dont know why, because at one point I ws able to leave it for a few minuites and ride it again. But now I cant even do that. After it dies it wont start unless I cover the airbox, so I'm guessing theres a air leak somewhere. I've fiddled with the air mixture screw, but it hasn't made no difference. I sprayed WD-40 over the intake manifold to see if any bubbles came up, but nothing happened. I've been told its the sparkplug, and I replaced it but it hasn't made any difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I haven't even been able to ride it properly at all. I've had it for a few weeks, but its only now I really want to get it sorted. I just hope its something simple as I'm 16 and dont have much money.
Thanks in advance
Nick
Posted on Jun 10, 2005, 4:17 PM from IP address 172.202.182.208
I've just picked up a '78 NC50 and resuscitated it. What concerns me the most right now is a loud whining noise from the trans area when riding. Sounds like the helical gears....
The trans is full of fresh oil to the filler plug. Is it normal to hear considerable gear whine?
Posted on Jun 10, 2005, 7:30 AM from IP address 71.111.81.32
There's normally a quiet gear whine, but it's not very loud and hard to pick out from engine noise at speed. Anything else is a problem.
I can hear a rising whine as I accelerate around 10MPH, but after that I cant hear it.
Posted on Jun 12, 2005, 12:05 AM from IP address 154.20.212.87
Well i have a green 1978 honda express. I am wondering if its normal to be maxing 25-27 mph? its not going to the max on the speedmeter..is that normal?.. What could be wrong? I havent had not one problem with it yet (only has 900 miles) i maintain it everyday. Any help would be greatful thanks!
Posted on Jun 9, 2005, 3:10 AM from IP address 24.58.39.139
depending on the weight of the rider and the terrain
27 is about normal for a stock express on regular gas
the compression on these engines is apout 7.5 to 1
and there was NO 85 or 87 octane gas when these engines were new
so i run premium gas
some people say it's not needed, but most of you guys are younger than the bike and don't realize 90 octane was regular when this bike was built & sold
and i used to buy 102 octane for my 68 mustang BEFORE they took the lead out of gas and mandated 'clean air'
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Jun 9, 2005, 9:32 PM from IP address 66.174.76.203
thanks for the help, do u know where to get the rubber boot that goes on the starter lever (kick starter)? also the rubber covers at the end of the brakes levers? The only problem i am experiencing is that if the front brake is pulled hard it sticks for less then a sec then comes back. What could be wrong? Also last thing, HOW CAN U GET THE BRAKES TO STOP squeking! It my rear brake!
Posted on Jun 10, 2005, 6:42 PM from IP address 24.58.39.139
I have a 1987 TOMOS TTLX. It runs, but has no power. The muffler is cleaned out, along with the silancer. It starts, but will not idle, the spark plug carbons up wet and black. This problem occurs with the exhaust on or off and the silancer in or out.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Posted on Jun 6, 2005, 11:36 AM from IP address 69.49.156.40
I own a 1979 Honda Express II. I am able to get the moped started and it seems to run OK, but top speed is only 10 - 15 mph. What could be wrong? What would be the most likely thing for me to check? I am a real rookie at this. My son would like to take the moped to work, but not at 10 MPH.
Also, I am missing the air cleaner (box, filter, filter cage), do you know where I might be able to get a replacement? Would the air cleaner from a 1980 Honda Express be compatible?
Posted on Jun 5, 2005, 8:01 PM from IP address 24.14.114.5
Also make sure you put an air cleaner on the bike as soon as humanly possible. Running without one for even a short time will quickly make a mess if the piston and cylinder.
Yes, a 1980 box should be compatible.
Also if the muffler doesnt magicly solve all your problems I'd suggest cleaning out your carburetor, then put the airbox on and readjust your mix screws as per the repair guides.
If after this you still dont get much power it's time to check the timing.
After that you're looking at deeper problems.
How many miles are on this bike?
Posted on Jun 6, 2005, 12:35 AM from IP address 154.20.212.87
Hello,
I have a stock 1989 Honda Elite 80 (CH80) which is a 4 stroke, 80cc. The scooter starts, runs, and will eventually get to top speed (45mph), but its REALLY slow off the line and the engine shakes in the frame until it gets going..
I cleaned out the carb, fresh gas, new aircleaner, good compression, valves adjusted correctly. etc.
I drove another stock Elite 80 and it was really fast and peppy off the line!
Any ideas what's wrong?
thank you in advance!
Don Thompson
Posted on Jun 5, 2005, 7:45 PM from IP address 24.58.122.45
I am new at this moped thing and have recently bought to early 80's honda express mopeds.One has all the stuff and runs great,the other is the victim of a bad carb overhual.I need a few peices for such as choke shaft,needle and needle pin and the throttle bore spring washer and cover that cable goes through.Has great spark.Oil is injected into manifold.Could anyone direct me so that I can get this second unit up and running for my kids to enjoy.
Posted on Jun 3, 2005, 8:46 PM from IP address 12.169.12.33
Dear Sir,
My name is Iancu Victor and I live in Craiova , Romania.
In 2003 I bought a moped type Ankur Idilio Student.
Until now I traveled by my moped about 1600 km,but a certain problem has appeared and the service of the firm from which I bought it could not eliminate that problem.
The desertion follows several steps:
The moped's engine starts normally but after running about 5 km it cannot accelerate anymore,the moped it is not moving forward anymore and the engine runs idly.
If I stop the engine it will starts the second time normally but it develops the same problem after a period of time,longer or shorter,depending on the stand-by period of the engine.This problem appears more often when the weather is hot (over 30 Celsius grades).
The service of the firm which sold me the moped treed repeatedly to repair the problem but in vain.They thought it is a somethingout of order with the carburetter or the induction reel.
In your opinion which of the following could be the cause of my problem :
-The carburetter ( more exactly,the moped runs normally until it runs aut of petrol from the constant-level-chamber and then I have to wait until the caruretter fills again ) ?
-The induction reel ( after it overheats,it does not provide the requered tension ) ?
-The electronic kindling.My moped is equiped with an electronic kindling which does not allow a faster speed than 25 km/h and I have started not to overtake this level.
-The segments of the piston which could have worn out, therefore when the engine heats the compresion is not producing ?
-Any other possible cause ?
Taking in account your experience , please tell me which is your opinion regarding my problem.
Sincerly yours,
Iancu Victor viancu@electroputere.ro
Posted on Jun 1, 2005, 3:57 AM from IP address 194.176.173.34
The exhaust port or exhaust pipe or BOTH may have a carbon build-up restricting rpms. Clean them and REPLACE the spark plug.
25km is not fast.......can't you find out how to de-restrict that? At that speed you probably DO have a lot of carbon and sludge in the exhaust.
If what the Whiz thinks you were saYING IS THE PROBLEM......then it is probably a clutch or slipping belt.
I am operating under the assumption you can ride the bike, but it won't accelerate? Either way..............you need a faster bike. don-ohio (:^D
Posted on Jun 2, 2005, 6:13 AM from IP address 63.155.208.68
Hard to figure sometimes what they're aiming at ain't it? You sniffed that one correctly,though.
I LIKE those Hero-Majestics......it's just that here in the hills,you need a first gear or variator. don-ohio
Posted on Jun 3, 2005, 6:26 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
First off, my battery is dead but when jump starting or right after charging, the signals/taillights/starter etc will work. BUT, the headlight never works.... will it only go when the scooter is actually running?
Secondly, I'm having trouble getting spark. New plug and made up a spark plug boot from one of those make-your-own kits for a car as the old one was broken. Will occasionally get a very weak spark, but nothing doing most of the time.
Anyone have any tips on what to do or how to check the various components?
Thanks!
Posted on May 31, 2005, 4:51 PM from IP address 24.67.253.203
the headlight is NOT powered by the battery, it is powered by it own magento/alternator winding, NO engine NO headlight
the engine must be running to have a headlight
older small hondas (2 strokes) have a sperate magneto winding for the ignition
newer hondas ( 4 strokes ) have the ignition wired to the battery, ON these bikes a dead battery makes it very hard to start as all the power from the magneto is trying to charge the battery, and at low speed or starter speed there is not enough power for a strong spark
in fact removing the battery and kick starting it will give a stronger spark as no power is wasted trying to charge the dead battery
BUY a new battery
and ride the scoot enough to keep it charged, and in the winter bring the battery into the house and trickle charge it one night every 2 weeks
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Jun 1, 2005, 11:15 PM from IP address 66.174.6.204
hey my name is rob i have just turned 16 and all me mates have gone out and spent 1 to 2000 pound on a moped and i did not have that sort of money so what i did was brought a 1996 SH50 CITY EXPRESS and i love it so much but now all the mopeds go faster than mine i was just wondering can you derestrict SH50 city express and put a power pipe on?? plz can you help thanks very much rob
Posted on May 30, 2005, 10:47 AM from IP address 195.92.67.76
Stock Main Jet Size, and where to get replacements?
by Dave-NC50 (no login)
Hi all,
I'm looking for the stock size of my Main jet for a 1981 Honda Express, as well as any info on where to find smaller jets... (I think I'm running to rich)
I tried to read the number on my jet, but I was unable too...
Thanks!
Posted on May 30, 2005, 10:42 AM from IP address 207.35.105.132
Can a 1978 honda express handle premium gas? I know it says it can't but i know 4 strokes can handle higher grade gas without cracking their blocks. But can a 2 stroke handle it? Or is there too much of an absence of oil in the premium gas?
Thanks,
Chris.
Posted on May 28, 2005, 9:57 PM from IP address 68.201.97.184
with my first big bore, a carb change and minutes after installing my first biturbo exhaust
I got a surprise wheely out of my 'project urban' and dragged the tip of the biturbo on the street for about 20 ft
suprised the SH** out of me..
i took a picture of the drag mark and the tip of the exhaust.. just to keep around.
did it once or twice, out at the stop light just to shock a few people
then change the carb, it was way to lean, i didn't want to burn up the engine
I got into a converstion with somebody the other day, and now i'm thinking about trying to re-create that happy hapenstance. just to show off a little.
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on May 29, 2005, 12:10 AM from IP address 66.174.76.206
The higher octane gas should do very little to a 2-stroke engine.
Most people assume a higher octane rating will magicly give them 3x the HP. This is simply not the case.
If you drive a modern car with a knock sensor and a turbocharger, then yes you will get a performance increase by using a better fuel. But this is largly due to the fact that the car automaticly drops into "crap mode" if the engine would otherwise destroy itsself through pre-ignition due to low octane and high performance parts.
So your little two stroke most likely wont get damaged or improved by running anything but normal octane. It may even run a little bit worse, but probably not get hurt.
However most higher octane fuels also include solvents, enhancers, food dye, mono sodium glutimate, artificial flavours, BHT to preserve freshness and the missing part of the Canadian educational budget.
If your bike has a dirty fuel system, it might get a bit better with a more expensive gas over time. Or you could just clean it by hand for free.
My advice? Try doing some basic work on the Express if you'd like a small performance boost. If that doesnt satisfy you, then give more expensive fuel a try and see what happens. Chances are you wont get any real change.
But you'll find out for sure.
Posted on May 29, 2005, 1:30 AM from IP address 154.20.212.87
and while the engine is NOT Hi-Po , when doing things like changing the exahust and adjusting the carb, the tendency is too run too lean which makes the engine heat up quicker
a little extra octane helps to compensate for that.
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on May 30, 2005, 12:22 AM from IP address 66.174.76.206
Looking for where I can purchase a big bore kit for my honda express and what other performance tuning parts can be used on it- its been sitting up for some time- turns over, but cylinder shot- figure I would build a big bore version- just got back from Hawaii- some mopeds there are running about 55-80mph (big bore kits, rejetted carbs, performance exhaust- where can I find this stuff for my NC50?)<- that blew my mind- clocked them with my rental car speedometer! sparked my interest to come home and get the old express out of the barn and start rebuilding it.
Posted on May 27, 2005, 9:47 PM from IP address 209.34.98.148
Please folks help me out. I have been searching for 2 days on the forum for the following information with no outcome:
1) Will the Performance Carb for the Camino, that is listed on 50cc.nl work for my 1982 NU50?
2. Will the transmission kit for the camino, listed on 50cc.nl, work for my urban?
3. What other parts are interchanbel for the urban and other models.
I am just looking to do about 40-50 mph on my ped nothing serious. Also will I need better tires?
Thank you so much for your help.
Posted on May 26, 2005, 11:57 PM from IP address 24.14.49.185
the manifold for that carb will bolt to the urban engine
but I do not know how far to the rear facing the rear tire .. that the carb will extend
in other words i don't know if the carb will run into the tire or whether it will have clearance
the 'Camino'/PA50 has a longer frame/wheel base and the rear wheel is farther way from the engine than an NU50 urban express
NO the variator for the Camino is different than the variator on the urban. the shaft from the engine might be the same size , BUT the rest of the tranny is different
weights/rollers to modified the Urban's trans can be bought from www.vtcycles.com in Hawaii
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on May 27, 2005, 12:57 AM from IP address 66.174.6.204
AS fellow just e-mailed me with a problem.......here is his question:
`1978 honda express, I have one with the starting spring wound up tight
and will not release. How can I get the case apart without parts flying
out. A friend did this last summer and it came all apart. Never did get
it together again. Thank You for any help.' End Quote.
Now I've never encountered this, but I KNOW someone of you has. Whiz? Jax? Anyone? I'd like to help this guy. Thanks in advance! don-ohio (:^D
Posted on May 26, 2005, 4:50 PM from IP address 63.155.208.142
when the left brake/release lever is pulled it pulls the starter release lever on the tranny located just forward of the carb
this problem usually occurs when the rear brake arm or the brake cable has been tighten/adjusted
the cable doesn't move as much as it did before and the release lever is not being pulled far enough forward to release the starter spring
when this is done the 2 nuts at the tranny starter release lever have to be adjusted so that the lever moves the full amount of travel needed to release the internal catch
he can loosen both nuts and push or tap the lever forward , the spring should release
then with out winding the engine up.. he should adjust the nuts so that the cable pulls the tranny lever too the release position
the forward nut should be move a couple of turns forward, then the rear nut brought forward the same amount and snugged against the lever
he can then wind it up and test it
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on May 27, 2005, 1:07 AM from IP address 66.174.6.204
If this isnt the case and the mech is truly stuck but not physicly broken (my friend's '77 is like this, havent fixed it yet) you should be fairly okay taking it apart Carefully. Chances are the spring will unwind rather voilently, but it wont go flying as it's bolted down pretty well.
You should first check to make sure it's not the release lever though, and that the engine turns freely (turn it via the flywheel under the timing cover.)
If the engine's stuck, no ammount of spring repars will unstick it. Same with the release being out of adjustment.
Posted on May 27, 2005, 3:29 AM from IP address 154.20.212.87
I've already relayed the Whiz's message and now I'll relay Jax's! I appreciate you guys helping Ron out. Maybe he can get on this forum later? Thanks again! don-ohio (:^D
Posted on May 27, 2005, 1:37 PM from IP address 63.155.208.108
I only have to put two stroke oil in my express right? I fill the tank that is next to the gas tank, and it will inject that oil into the carb, or intake, and the oil will also go down and into the transmision on the side right?
Posted on May 23, 2005, 1:54 PM from IP address 138.86.171.78
Well, if they need to be different oils, then how do i fill the crankcase oil? There is no way to get oil into it. If i drain the oil, then run the bike, the oil pump fills the case with 2 stroke oil. I THINK.
If it dosnt, then what kind of oil do i put in there, and how? There is what seams to be an overflow/breather valve in the back of the case, up against the wheel, but you cannot easily get anything through that plug.
Please help, no i am woried about my express.
Posted on May 24, 2005, 11:43 AM from IP address 138.86.171.94
.......that on the inside of the long transmission case,about the third screw back is the level-checking plug. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. This takes 10W40 automobile engine oil,I believe. There is NO pump here.
The oil pump you're seeing down by the carburetor injects 2-stroke engine oil into the fuel to lubricate the engine crankcase and piston(totally separate from the transmission,which the rear wheel attaches).
So get this idea of a pump filling something out of your head.......the oil pump only injects an ounce of oil for every quart or so of gas you burn. don-ohio (:^D
Posted on May 24, 2005, 3:46 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
don-ohio is correct. There is a screw (that looks different than the rest) on the bottom of the transmission. This is the drain screw. If you drain the transmission oil from here, you will need to fill it back up with either 10w40 or 10w30. (maybe Jax184 can chime in here) The fill screw is located on the front of the transmission near the head gasket. I think it takes around a 14mm or so socket to unscrew it. Fill up the transmission (after putting back the drain screw) with about .6 qts of the above oil. If you fill too much (as I did) the oil will nicely coat your rear wheel, rim and brake pads from draining through the overflow value you indicated in your original message.
The top oil tank is for properly mixing with the gas to keep the piston lubed. I hope that helps.
Matthew Scholtens
Posted on May 24, 2005, 3:54 PM from IP address 67.172.70.32
Don, you're kind of correct. The oil crankcase drain is the 3rd bolt from the back on the bottom of the left crankcase. It is usually the only "hex" bolt on the crankcase - the rest are phillip heads. Simply remove the bolt to drain the oil. After draining all the oil, fill the crankcase using the plug at the front of the engine (left side, in front of the crankcase, next to the fins on the cylinder). The oil is full when it is at the lower rim of the filler opening (holds .75 US quart when completely empty). For a good view, and simple explanation, see page 13-2 of the NC50 Express Shop manual at:
Anyway, on the front of the transmission just next to the engine is a plug/bolt that's used for filling. Simply undo it and see where the oil level is. It should be quite near the opening. Any lower and you'll want to fill it.
The Express uses Non-Synthetic SAE-30. Synthetic oils have been known to cause problems in the Express, and multi-grade oils (10w40 for example) change thickness based on engine temp, while the Express's transmission never reaches that kind of operating temp.
To completly drain the oil you open the out of place looking screw/bolt along the bottom edge of the tranny, and have a pan on hand. Then just put the screw back in and fill it up with about a quart of SAE-30 through the fill plug.
Posted on May 24, 2005, 4:16 PM from IP address 154.20.212.87
