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Open since July 17, 1999
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I just bought a 1982 urban express that has been sitting inside for about 20 years. It has 900 miles on it and is oil injected. I sprayed starting fluid into cylinder and hooked up charger , it fired for a second. I have never owned one of these what do I need to know to get it running like new? Any special tips?The first thing is getting a new battery and carb and tank cleaning I'm sure.
BILL
Posted on Oct 9, 2004, 7:19 PM from IP address 24.147.160.231
The carb is the usual culprit and it's not too bad to clean except that the idle circuit holes are very small and dont go straight through. Also take your time when cleaning the bowl as it contains the "choke" circuit reservoir. There is a little hole there you need to clean out too. There's a lot to go through to put a long sitting bike in tip top shape, but I'll bet cleaning your carb will at least get it running.
Posted on Oct 11, 2004, 5:19 PM from IP address 24.161.55.147
I need the ignition coil and the starter arm spring for Honda Express NC50. New or used, BUT coil needs to be GOOD!!!
If anyone has them please contact me. sofasurfer@blclinks.net
I can pay by Paypal for good parts and faster shipping.
Or tell me where I can order them. The Honda place in town can order them but no idea when they would come in since they are on back order.
Thanks...
Posted on Oct 4, 2004, 3:48 PM from IP address 63.237.61.77
What year do you have?
I'm going to take a guess and say somewhere around 1979 seeing as how after 1980 (I think) they went to a kick starter.
Anyway, I'm sure someone here will have the part you need for a lot cheaper then honda.
Posted on Oct 5, 2004, 3:24 AM from IP address 24.84.179.195
Someone wrote but my PC died. I lost your email. Help!!!
by
(no login)
Someone sent me an email stating that they had the parts I needed. I was going to contact the person but my PC went pa-putt and I lost all my mail. If your out there, please write back... sofasurfer@blclinks.net
Posted on Oct 7, 2004, 7:06 PM from IP address 63.237.61.32
I have a honda express which i've been trying to fix for a long while and i can't. I was wondering if anyone on here lives in the north east who could fix it or at least look at it. I am willing to pay money and would love to see it running sometime soon. I live in Rhode Island.
thanks
-diego
Posted on Oct 4, 2004, 3:44 PM from IP address 68.14.79.211
hi my honda express nc50 1980 has problems. the choke thing got frozen in the carb so i bot a new one. with the new carb on it would run with only the choke but would sound like crap. i drove around and i could not full throttle it because it would bog down. i took off the carb and cleaned it. now i cant even get it to run nice at all. it will start and idle for about 5 seconds then shut off. i think its not getting gas but i dont know because i have the carb jet out as far as it goes. so i dont know what to do.
Posted on Oct 3, 2004, 4:58 PM from IP address 12.218.26.156
ya i took off the carb and cleaned it. i put some gas in the air cleaner and it took about 6 trys but it started right up then ran for about 8 seconds and then shut off. i think i need to clean the gas tank because there is tons of crap in the filter and from what you said its probably getting plugged.
Posted on Oct 4, 2004, 2:48 PM from IP address 12.218.26.156
i drained the carb of all its gas then turned on the gas flow thingy and the spot where the gas drips out had gas running out the just stopped and there was still gas in the hose "i have a clean gas hose hooked up" but the carb wasnt dripping gas any more.
Posted on Oct 5, 2004, 4:25 PM from IP address 12.218.26.156
we i exchanged the bottom half of the carb because there was one spot "next to the drain/goes to choke" that was plugged. it fixed it but now the only problem is to get it to idle. i cept adjusting the air and fuel mixture but i cant get it just right.
Posted on Oct 6, 2004, 4:35 PM from IP address 12.218.26.156
Hello I just got my Dr. Racing big bore kit installed and the speed barely hits 30mph. The carb is really cleaned and everything else is fine. The Biturbo exhaust I also got works great and I am impressed with that,but my question is that I read that you had 2 of the weight rollers removed from your Urban Express.Is this a must to do in order to reach top speed? Lastly is too much oi(the pre-mix plus the oil from the reservoir)a bad thing for the bike in this case? I am thinking this could be a transmission problem because it sounds like its not going into second gear. Whatever the issue is,please help me figure this one out. Thanks Andy.
Posted on Oct 3, 2004, 4:30 PM from IP address 64.12.116.131
the reason for removing weight from inside the variator is NOT top speed
in fact , without added power it would reduce top speed
what changing the rollers or removing 2 of them does is lessen the force the weights create at any given speed..
this changes the shifting pattern keeping the engine in a lower gear ratio and at top acceleration for a longer period of time
when moving away from a dead stop it will take longer to shift from low to high
so the engine stays at a higher RPM for a few seconds longer
too much oil could create some clogging in the exhaust but that would take a while ( some miles ) it's more likely that IF you have too much oil it is reducing combustion power..
check your carb settings, and check your cylinder alignment..
it is possible to have the cylinder off center and putting stress on the piston
it doesn't always show up as a slowing of speed, ( and may not be your problem ) but it will result in scuffing of the cylinder and the pinching of the rings. if this is the case
you may need a new drive belt..
in any case, it is a good idea, to check on the belt and the rollers in the variator
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Oct 3, 2004, 10:56 PM from IP address 66.174.76.205
I have studies the starter mechanism and understand it, except for one thing. When I push the peddle to wind the starter, then pull the brake lever to release the spring, the peddle spins backward along with the starter sprocket. It does not stop at its normal position, but continues spinning clockwise to an ankle breaking position. It the sprocket has been wound 360 degrees, the peddle will spin 360 degrees with the spring is released.
This is obviously wrong, but it seems to make sense, since the teeth on the starter sprocket and the starter ratchet are making contact. It seems to me that there must be a mechanism to seperate the ratchet teeth from the sprocket teeth but I don't see how that would be done.
Posted on Oct 2, 2004, 5:29 PM from IP address 65.164.255.55
I think I found the problem, and the solution. I'll see if I can explain.
I stated that the peddle spun back too far when the starter drive sprocket is released. The reason for this is that the teeth between the ratchet and the sprocket are not disengaging.
When the sprocket is released and spins counter-clockwise, the ratchet should spin with it, but the ratchet only should only spin far enough for the tab on the ratchet to ride up on the 'cam?' on the starter stopper, which disengages them, after which, the sprocket can continue to turn but the ratchet(which is connected to the peddle) does not.
But my ratchet(and the peddle) had to spin a LONG way before it disengaged. I think this is because the big spring behind the starter sprocket is weak, which causes the sprocket to be aligned improperly.
When you assemble the ratchet onto the shaft that goes through the sprocket, you should align the punch marks. Well, with a weak spring I had to align it so that the spring had tension, even though the punch marks are NOT lined up.
Now the peddle works properly.
Did I figure this out properly?
Posted on Oct 3, 2004, 6:19 PM from IP address 63.144.100.139
the spring is there to keep the 2 gears ( pedal and starter ratchet ) engaged while pressing down the pedal
the force of the starter side turning in the opposite direction ( spinning the engine ) is suppose to be greater than the pressure of the spring ( trying to hold them together )
the teeth are turning away from each other at that time and should dis-engage
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Oct 3, 2004, 10:28 PM from IP address 66.174.76.205
hello there i have a 1977 honda nc50 express and was looking for a 70cc big bore kit had a couple sights that sold them but computer crshed and cant find web site any more any help would be grate
thanks alot Brian Wilcox
Posted on Sep 30, 2004, 10:55 PM from IP address 209.193.56.11
just had motor out of our 86 spree to replace both crankshaft bearings. put it back to gether and it runs great. problem is i now have a low oil light on, and the tank is half full. posibly airlocked?
thanks in advance.
Posted on Sep 30, 2004, 5:19 PM from IP address 64.108.124.174
thanks mopedwiz. looked at the tank and wires last night. came to the same conclusion. can i remove the sensor from the tank to inspect it? had to draind the oil when i took the motor out. refilled about 1/2 full, started motor, had light. pistonand everything looked real good. schooter had spent most of its life parked. had 1200 miles on it when igot it. bearings where actually rusted.
thanks again. joe
Posted on Oct 1, 2004, 2:14 AM from IP address 64.108.124.174
I have tried hotwiring the start switch by jumpering the red wire to either the black/white or the green wire. However, I am still not able to detect current any farther than the rectifier plug. Hmmm. Any ideas?
Thanks...
Posted on Sep 28, 2004, 8:41 PM from IP address 65.164.255.58
the ignition power doesn't come from the battery , theigntion power comes from the magneto/altenator
if you will look at the drawing, you will see thee are 3 coils ( power circuits )
1 charges the battery, power comes from there thru the rectifier to the battery and the circuts the battery .. it does not go backwards from the retifer into the other circuts
2. powers the headlight and that is all
3 powers the igniton coil ( it's hooked to the points )
to get spark you have to unplug the ignition switch from the harness
like i said the ignition is grounded out/ OFF unless the switch is in the on position which OPENS the switch circuit so the ignition is NO longer grounded- OFF
in other words the key switch is a 'short circuit' that keeps the ignition from working
JUST like turning off your lawn mower
the moped doesn't need a batterry to run..
BUT it does need one in order to work the lights and horn..
if you try to ride around with out a good battery you will burn out the lights..
a headlight cost $32
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Sep 28, 2004, 10:53 PM from IP address 66.174.6.207
I'm starting to understand all of what you said, however, I am not trying to start it right now. I am only trying to make to horn and tail light work. Shouldn't this be possible with the motor NOT running? Won't these work off ONLY the battery?
Posted on Sep 29, 2004, 9:11 AM from IP address 63.237.61.100
but jumpering the RED hot . to the green ground is a short
and jumpering it to the black ignition is ALSO WRONG
unplug the wires going to the switch ..
in the harness find the brown wire tail light circuit or the blue wire hot circcuit to jumper to the red.
battery power will go from the battery out the harness but NOT to the other side of the recifier ..the otherside of the recifier is the AC input from the magento/altenator
there is or was a fuse in the battery circuit..
the power should be on the battery side of the rectifer and on any wires hooked to that side..
and unless something is CUT or broken , your biggest problem will be BAD connections
put one side of the meter on the battery neg NOT ground and trace your feed wires
if the battery is not grounded or if the ground connections of various devices are not good it doesn't matter if all your wires are good .. power won't flow with out a return circuit.
and just because the horn doesn't beep doesn't mean it's not getting power ..it could be stuck.
or the horn switch could be dirty / corroded
you'll likely find a spider web in side all the swtichs and buttons
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Sep 29, 2004, 9:36 PM from IP address 66.174.76.206
Wow. I just read my previous post from earlier today. I'll try to improve my grammer this time.
As I stated in my earlier post, I know nothing about mopeds. Is there a web site that has an owners manual for an Express NC50? Or if anyone has one that they could scan the basic operating instructions and send them to me at sofasurfer@blclinks.net
This would be a big help if I had an idea how a moped operates.
Thanks...
Posted on Sep 27, 2004, 9:33 PM from IP address 65.164.254.120
The manual at this site (http://www.mopedriders.org/html/manuals/honda/express/hexpresssm.htm) is hard to read. But if I click on the image it gets bigger and is very clear. But, theres no way of printing it in the clear easy to read size. It always comes out unclear. Any ideas on how to print clear copies? Are there any other sites with manuals?
Posted on Oct 2, 2004, 1:22 PM from IP address 63.237.61.146
I have a metrakit big bore 65cc and stock carb that has been re -jetted to fit the big bore.Attached on a Honda Express and it will go 40 or more mph. Selling for 100.00.
Thanks geoff
Posted on Sep 27, 2004, 7:31 PM from IP address 198.81.26.43
Well, selling it whole didnt work to good so I decided to part it out. It is a 1980 honda express blue in color. I am selling the frame which is in very good condition for 50.00. The wire basket that bolts onto the front forks for 10.00, The front and back wheel each for 10.00. Headlight bucket and handle bars for 10.00, repair manual for 15.00. Stock Cylinder for 10.00 and .25 oversized piston for 10.00.Muffler for 10.00. Carb for 30.00.Airbox for 5.00. I will also sell the engine casing for 20.00. Buyer must pay for shipping.
Thanks Geoff
Posted on Sep 27, 2004, 7:25 PM from IP address 198.81.26.43
am interested in the carb and airbox, how much to post it to australia?
Maybe i will email you as well. Is it in good running condition? I have a 79 express that i cannot get running for unknown carby reasons. also i have no airbox.
Posted on Sep 29, 2004, 4:58 PM from IP address 203.217.28.62
Is there a tool that you use to hold the kicker shaft in place while installing it. whenever I put the spring in place it pulls everything apart. Has anyone done this before that can offer any advice. thanks a lot for any help
Shane
Posted on Sep 27, 2004, 3:43 PM from IP address 69.208.79.103
Is there some cool tool to put on a kickstarter shaft that I dont know about, because I cannot get anything to line up right once I put the spring in place on my 1983 urban express... It seems like i need something to hold the shaft in place and keep it from spinning, but the repair manual doesn't say anything about it. Any help would be awesome, thanks.
Posted on Sep 27, 2004, 3:31 PM from IP address 69.208.79.103
Just got a 1978 Express in non-running condition. Don't know anything about them. Found the on-line repair manual.
Bad battery. Replaced it. No ignition key. I sould be able to jump the terminals though, right? Tail light bulb broken. Headlight bulb looks good but has no continuity. Only thing that works is the horn...if I hot wire it.
The kick start is not working. Opened the trany...drive train box. I beleive its the return spring that is bad.
Coil is bad I think. No continuity between spark plug wire and other terminals on coil.
OK, I know I have to spend some money on parts. But, shouldn't I be able to get the horn to work by pushing the horn button even with the engine not running? Or is everything dead if the engine is not running?
I figure if I can't get a most basic electrical function to work I ain't ready to spend a lot of money.
I checked to recifier and it apears to be OK.
Am would like to trace the voltage to see if its getting anywhere at all but I seem to have trouble detecting anything past the battery leads. I'm sure I'm not that dense and I wonder if theres something differant about a moped electrical system that I am unaware of.
Thanks for any info that you can give. I'm a total novice about mopeds.
This message has been edited by themopedwhiz from IP address 66.174.6.206 on Sep 27, 2004 9:21 PM
Posted on Sep 27, 2004, 1:47 PM from IP address 63.144.100.174
the horn and the turn signals, tail light & brake light work off the battery, the key must be on or bypassed/hotwired.
the headlight works off it's own lighting circuit and is only on when the engine is running
the ignition while on the key switch is a seperate set of 3 contacts
with the keyswitch wiring INTACT the ignition is grounded and won't give any spark
I would check /replace the spark plug Cap on the sparkplug wire before i bought a new coil..
Remove the cap and try your meter directly to the plug and ground
if you look at the wiring diagram you will see the plug ( like all sparkplugs ) is on the sceondary side of the circuit.. it doesnot connect to the magneto side of the coil.. the magento/primary side of the coil is hooked to the altenator/magneto that side of the circuit is grounded when the key is in the off position or the engine Stop switch is engaged..
likely there are some corroded/dirty connections in the wriing circuits on both the hot / battery power side and on the return/ground side of the light sockets
I'm interested in selling my (orig owner) '82 NU50M Silver ~6600 mi, runs great, a little rust, small tank dent. $500, As is, no warranty, no delivery, pickup in Southern NH. Running on a new Zuma.
Posted on Sep 23, 2004, 7:46 PM from IP address 69.163.33.79
