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Comments or questions can be about any model moped...and be either technical or mechanical..
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So you want to Speed up your Express by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

then check out these links

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/70cc.html>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/BiturboHowto.html>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/nu50_biturbo.html>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/urban_gets_proma.html>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/exhaust_ref.html>

http://50cc.nl>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/expresspage.html>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/howtofixit.html>

http://mopedwizard.www1.50megs.com/nc50maint.htm>




TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun



    

This message has been edited by themopedwhiz from IP address 151.144.164.77 on Apr 12, 2004 9:14 PM

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 9:10 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.77

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I have the need for speed

by Jordan Brummond (no login)

I dont care if its not safe.... How can i speed up my yamaha razz?

It goes about 30 on flat land now days....

Someone wanna hook me up with some info?

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 5:53 PM
from IP address 199.120.74.244

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honda express help

by (no login)

is there any honda websites i can go to and order parts for my 78 honda express, or any place or anyone that can sell me parts for cheap....i checked ebay and found a couple things but not much.all the help i can get is greatly appreciated thanks.

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 2:23 PM
from IP address 69.179.14.251

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Re: honda express help

by (no login)

Tell us what you need and I may be able to provide! I have an 81 I use as a parts bike.
Plus many common parts like gaskets, spark plugs, piston rings, etc can still be bought from many motorcycle places that deal with hondas. At least, any big honda shop...
Everett Powersports (formerly Everett Honda Shop) still has many express parts in stock if you happen to live in Washington.
Also, hope the email I sent you helps!

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 8:52 PM
from IP address 154.5.160.179

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1978 Honda Express

by (no login)

I just got a 1978 Honda express 2 in parts and had a couple of questions? The engine was intact but the starter/transmission side cover was off and the internals were loose in a bucket. I have managed to reassemble everything and got is back together. It runs and the clutch works but I am not sure about lubrication of the "transmission/starter/final drive gears". Is this supposed to be a wet lubrication area and if so, where do you add the oil? If it is "dry" what should I lubricate the chain, gears and races with? Should I use normal chain lube or is there some other preferred lubrication?

Any help would be appreciated because I started in pieces and did not see how it was set up when it was assembled.

Thanks,
John

Posted on Apr 11, 2004, 6:05 PM
from IP address 12.221.58.98

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tranny oil by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

john

you may have noticed a large bolt at the forward
end of the tranny, maybe holding a clamp holding
the carb overflow-drain tube

this is where you put the oil in. the fill hole !

use 10-40 wt motor oil.. this is a wet clutch
system

it holds .79 US qt by the book..

that's about 26 ounces

good luck

check out the data and picture site

expresslymopeds.50megs.com

for tune up info
pictures charts and howto projects








TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 11, 2004, 10:23 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.80

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Looking for a moped!!!!

by (no login)

Hi, I am looking for a moped, but have a few questions. First of all, how old do you have to be to own one, and what do you have to do to make it street legal. Next, i need some advice on what type of a moped to buy. I dont want anything too expensive, but i need something that can go about 40 miles an hour, and does not use up that much gas. Thanks alot

Posted on Apr 11, 2004, 2:49 PM
from IP address 152.163.253.1

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Depends on State's Laws,Brian.

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

Here in Ohio you can get a limited license for mopeding at 14 years old.......can't ride at night...must wear a helmet and safety glasses.
Different States classify different bikes as mopeds. Some bikes don't have to have pedals and must merely be 50cc engine powered.That means a Jin Cheng Knight with gears might be a moped, like in MICHIGAN.
In a restricted to 2HP and 30 mph state, you can buy a Tomos moped and do a bore kit on it and hit 40 easily with a special exhaust pipe.
How heavy and fast is the traffic? If the traffic is city and movin g fast and crowded, I'd recommend a small motorcycle like a Honda 70cc Passport or a NP 50-GL Top-Tank 50cc bike.
Just depends on your traffic and your age and situation. don-ohio (:^)

Posted on Apr 11, 2004, 4:52 PM
from IP address 12.109.127.66

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Legality

by (Login JesseLJames)
Moped Riders

hey
im in KS and the law here is anyone with a license can have one, anyone over 15 that can pass a license eye test can have one, if you have a suspended license you hafto get a special moped one, but if its revoked you are not allowed to ride one, but most cops dont know these laws and they would site you for a motor vehicle sitation not knowing you can go to the court room and prove that you were never driving a "motor vehicle"....
good luck
~jesse

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 6:32 AM
from IP address 68.102.199.230

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IL Moped Laws

by (Login tedtuner)
Moped Riders

In Illinois:

- The Moped has to be less than 50cc (i.e. 49cc) in order to drive it without a special Motorcyle endorsement on your drivers licence. You do need to have a drivers licence.

- The moped must be titled and registered as a motorcyle. Than means you use standard motorcyle plates.

- Must be Insured. I pay $50/yr.

- The moped must go less than 30 mph.

- The moped must be automatic (no clutch).

I have friends in Michigan and their laws are very lack. The only need to register it ($15 fo 3 years). They don't need insurance and I think you only have to be 14 years old. There is a 30 mph restriction.

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 12:28 PM
from IP address 63.238.221.25

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Ted.....what company you insured with?

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

And what coverage may I ask? Sounds like I need to talk to your guys about insuring my 2 or 3 regular `peds? Thanks! don-ohio (:^)

Posted on Apr 16, 2004, 7:16 AM
from IP address 12.109.127.66

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Insurance

by (no login)

Don,
Foremost Insurance. They are based out of Michigan. I got it through a local Farmers Insurance agent.

The coverage is minimal.
Here is my responce to the agents questions:

Is it garaged @ a different location other than your primary address? If so where?
Ted - No

What type of coverages do you want?
Bodily Injury 20/40 25/50 50/100 100/300 250/500
Ted - 25/50

Prop damage 15k 25k 50k 100k 250k
Ted - 15k

Meds 1k 2.5k 5k 10k
Ted - None

Un/underinsured 20/40 25/50 50/100 100/300 250/500
Ted - 25/50

Do you want comp or collision? If so what deductible
100 200 250 500 1000
Ted - comp, 250

If you want liability only? Do you want Uninsured Prop Damage?
Ted - No



Posted on Apr 16, 2004, 12:51 PM
from IP address 63.238.221.25

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Thanks,Ted!

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

Very good info.! Looks like good enough coverage,except I might want 100 on the deuctible? I appreciate the help,Ted. don-ohio (:^)

Posted on Apr 23, 2004, 9:58 PM
from IP address 63.155.208.13

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piece of piston ring in crankcase

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

Hey,
I posted a few days ago about putting the original piston/cylinder back into my elite because of damage to the piston, rings, and cylinder. Well when I was trying to get the cylinder back over the piston, I broke the top ring because I was trying to twist it to get it on. Lesson learned. Now however, I couldn't get the lower ring off because it looks like it's been melted into the groove at one spot. The area below the stuck part is also dark for some reason.

So now I need a new piston, maybe a new head (the original was shaved for more compression), cylinder?? So this is becoming expensive.

I e-mailed someone about their used 87 elite 50 lx engine. Mine is an 87 elite 50 s/se. Should that be a problem? Or should I go new parts from the dealer?

Finally, a piece of piston ring fell into the crankcase, how can I get it out? A magnet? For cying out loud.

Thanks yall,
Nate


Posted on Apr 11, 2004, 2:41 PM
from IP address 128.253.199.115

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Yep! Get out that magnet!

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

Can't have loose rings flying around in the crankcase. I wonder if www.vtcycles.com would have a bore kit for you? don-ohio

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 12:03 AM
from IP address 12.109.127.66

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vtcycles was where i got kit in first place

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

I've gone through the story about the big bore kit... it seized once on the way home from the mechanic, never seized again, but it now has low compression, and this past week I took it apart and found a bad piston ring. I didn't run premix, just tried to rig the oil pump to full open, and I discovered that the chicken wire had come undone. Don't know if it happened recently to actually cause lost compression or what.

It does seem like it'd be cheaper to get the big bore kit than to get parts from the dealer. I would need a new head though, because the old one was shaved by my mechanic to get just a little more out of the kit. The cylinder was also ported.

If I get another one, don't port it, use a stock head, and run premix, do you think I can expect more than 500 miles out of it like my first kit?

Thanks,
Nate

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 4:26 AM
from IP address 128.253.199.115

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Yes... by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

you should be able to run thousands of miles.

be sure you contour the head chamber this is a must to keep the piston from impacting and keep compression at the correct ratio..

the compression automatically goes up when using the original head, ( because you are compressing a 65cc bore into a chamber designed for 49cc ) you don't need to shave the head

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 12, 2004, 8:41 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.77

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Welcome... vistaman707 by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

NM

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 10, 2004, 8:29 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.55

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Hello,VistaMan!

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

NM

Posted on Apr 11, 2004, 4:53 PM
from IP address 12.109.127.66

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How to get that garage sale Express Started

by (no login)

I originally wrote this for someone over at moped army.
That was 9 months ago though and the post went rather unnoticed. (It worked though, the guy now has a running bike) Seeing as how it is a common problem with no detailed repair instructions floating around, I figured this would be the best place to post my guide to 1978 Honda express repair. This isn't meant to be the complete guide to everything but simply how to get one running thats sat for x number of years in some guys garage.
It doesn't cover anything like brakes or tires, simply how to make it START and how to make it RUN. Everything else after that is not my problem


Ready? here it goes...

I have a green '78 express, I know what a PAIN THE IN A$$ they can be.
First, make sure the petcock works by disconnecting the hose from it or from the carb and turning the petcock on and to reserve. Mine doesn't work in reserve. If gas comes out, then keep moving on.

If not, unscrew the petcock from the gas tank and clean out the filter. The filter will probably get stuck in the tank, so get it out somehow. Keep in mind that you should drain the gas tank before doing these last few things... Anyway, put the filter and the petcock back in, and see if fuel's going through, if not, get a petcock from another bike. One from Honda's gonna cost a fortune. I know, I checked.

If you're getting plenty of fuel, then pull apart the carb. Clean out the bowl. Clean out the passage that the float needle seals off. Clean out the main jet (the thing that sticks out into the carb bowl from the top section) with something long and thin, but hopefully not sharp. I have used a little bit of thin wire, but its not the best idea.
Use a ton of strong carb cleaner on everything (except the float itself).
Unscrew both adjustment screws (but first screw them in all the way, counting how many turns it took so you can put them back the same) and clean out the screw passages with strong carb cleaner and such.
Maybe soak the whole carb in a bit of cleaner.
Look at the little pin on the end of the throttle cable. Take it out (carefully). A C-Clip holds its position on the end of the cable. The clip can sit in any of the 5 grooves. Put the C-Clip in the middle one. Now put it back together.
Pull apart the air filter holder. the filter is the spongy thing. It's probably falling apart. Just pull it out of there for now if it is. Otherwise clean it out and soak it in oil. Then squeeze some of the oil out and stick it back in the canister. Leave the filter box off for now.
Put everything back together and put it back on the bike. I'll get back to this after the rest of the bikes been checked out.

Now look in the oil tank. Is there oil in it? if its low, fill it with Honda two stroke injector oil, or something like it. I use the real Honda stuff and find it leave far less of a carbon buildup then the cheap stuff at the gas stations.
Now follow the oil line down to the oil pump. Is it full of oil? can you see air bubbles in it? if there are bubbles in it, unscrew the little screw on top of the injector and let the oil drain through until you can't see any more bubbles, then replace the screw. Check the line leading out from the injector. Does it have bubbles in it? 1 or 2 tiny bubbles are OK, but if it has large bubbles in it you will have to remove the hose and fill it up with oil, then stick it back on without loosing much. This sounds harder then it is. There are other ways, but I just do this and it works fine.

Take off the bike's seat. Its held on by an odd wing nut under the front of the seat. Check out the wires under there. Make sure they are all connected tightly. Check the battery. Is it leaking? if so replace it. Are any of the fluids low? if so refill them. Is it really old and grungy and disgusting and all that? If so replace it. After that, hook it up to a SIX VOLT battery charger, and let it sit overnight. If you cant charge it, then put it back in the bike and don't worry too much about it.
Check the fuse in the little casing. If it is blown, replace it.
once all this has been done, put the seat back on.

Pull out the spark plug. Clean it off. Set the gap to about 0.026 inches(about 0.65 MM).
If you have or can borrow a compression gauge, Stick it in the plug hole and kick the motor over a few times (step on the pedal about 5 times and pull the back brake handle). Do this 2 or 3 times with the throttle held all the way open. The gauge should read somewhere between 70 and 120 Any lower and its not gonna run. Much higher and you probably need to do some De-carbonizing on the head/combustion chamber. If it is lower then 70 then you ether have very worn piston rings or a bad head gasket.
Now connect the plug to the plug cable, and rest the very end of the plug on the head of the engine. Try cranking over the motor a time or two. Is there a nice blueish yellowish spark? If so keep going, if not you either have a bad cable, bad coil or bad points.
If thats fine, stick the plug back in.

Pull the timing cover off (the round shiny metal cover on the right hand side of the motor with HONDA written on it). turn the flywheel until you can see the points (the two metal "Fingers" that open and close as the flywheel turns. Do they look corroded? rusty? if so the flywheel needs to come off and the points need to be replaced.
If they look fine, they may still be set wrong, but the engine SHOULD still start, assuming they arn't badly off.

Now go back to the carb. Screw the AIR MIXTURE SCREW ( the lower of the 2 adjustment screws ) all the way in, then turn it out 2 and 1/8th turns.
Now turn the THROTTLE STOP SCREW (the top of the 2 adjuster screws) all the way in, and then out about 1 and a half turns. This will need to be changed after the bike is running. Just leave it for now. Remember where they were before you took the carb apart? I hope so, because you may need to set them back to where they were.

Now that all this has been covered, make sure everything is back together (except the air filter box).
Make sure the bike is on the center stand, and that the back wheel is off the ground. Put fresh gas in the gas tank. Leave the gas cap off for now. (remember to put it back on with the knob set to "Vent" before riding)
Turn on the petcock. Set it to run (or reserve if it was the only possition it worked in).
Turn the throttle a few times to make sure it turns freely. Turn the key on.
Turn the red kill switch to run.
Pull the choke all the way on and hold it on.
Wind up the starter spring.
Pull the back brake, releasing it quickly
Repeat 5-10 times if bike does not start.

If bike does not start, keep reading.
If bike DOES start, skip to the next section.

Try starting it as outlined above. This time try it with the throttle held open part way, or all the way
Try starting it with the choke turned off
Try starting it with your hand mostly over the air intake on the carb.
Try other combinations of the above.
If this STILL doesn't work even after trying each method,
and you are on or near a hill, Then put the gas cap and air box on, wind up the bike, hold the choke on, and roll down the hill.
part way down, turn the throttle part way open, pull the back brake and quickly release it.
If the bike fires up and runs, hold the throttle open and keep it going, DO NOT STOP! Do not let it idle. Keep riding like this for about 20 seconds, then turn the choke off.
keep riding it till its warmed up a bit and then go to the next section.

Once the bike is running and warmed up, park it on the center stand (with the air box on) and slowly adjust the THROTTLE STOP SCREW (the upper one). Turn it out to slow down the idle. Turn it in to speed up the idle. If the bike dies as soon as or shortly after you release the throttle, then increase the idle. If the wheel turns more then very slowly when the bike idles, then lower the idle. Turn it in slow amounts and then rev up the engine for a few seconds, then let it drop back to an idle.
If all goes well you now have a running bike.
You can also try adjusting the IDLE MIXTURE SCREW if your bike still wont idle well. Turning it out makes the idle mix richer (more gas) which is better for cold starting and idling with the engine cold. Turning it in too much though will also cause problems. You may need a slightly leaner mix. 2 and 1/8th turns is simply what my bike runs well with.

If after all this your Express still wont start, you have a larger problem somewhere, such as very bad timing or bad crankcase seals.
I would suggest you pick up a copy of the Clymer honda express manual. It is quite detailed and very useful to have around.

If you have access to a timing light, You should check your timing.
there are differant kinds of light, but on mine you hook the power connection to any 12 volt battery (keep in mind your bike has a 6 volt battery), then fasten the sensor around the spark plug cable.
After that you take the timing cover off, start the bike and aim the light twards the timing marks on the engine case.
Each time the engine fires the light flashes on. when aimed at the timing marks you should be able to see the F marker on the flywheel lining up with the mark near the front of the crankcase. Keep in mind that F stands for Fire and T means Top Dead Center (the point at which the piston as at the very top of its upward travel). You need to set the timing with F, NOT T!!
If the F mark does not line up closely with the marker, you will need to set the timing closer. I won't go into detail right now on that.

{ the express does not have an adjustable timing plate, you adjust the timing by setting the points to open/break contact at the 'F' mark, you then have to check point gap to see if it is within the correct margin )

it is best NOT to ajust them unless you have to

If the bike will only start with the choke on, this is normal.

If the warmed up bike will only idle with the choke on or part way on, even after adjusting the throttle stop screw, try turning the idle mix scren in a little bit.

if the engine sounds like its drowning when you give it gas, or dies all together, try unscrewing the idle mixture screw a bit.

If the bike will ONLY start when cold with your hand part way over the air opening, try screwing in the idle mixture screw a bit. (keep in mind that even I have to try and start my bike 5 or 6 times when its cold, or ride down a hill)

If the bike doesnt seem to have much high end power, or seems to suddenly stop accelerating around 25 MPH, then you probably need to clean out the muffler and exaust port.

If you need a new air filter, a lot of places that sell motorcycle or small engine parts will have a generic element that will work. DO NOT run the bike without the air filter for very long. This is a BAD idea. I ended up sucking a small rock into my engine once, It didn't turn out well.

If you have any questions that I haven't covered here, email me.

Hope this helps! Email me if you need more information.
Also, keep in mind that 3 or 4 years ago I was in the EXACT same position you're in now, except I had an uncle that taught me most of what I'm telling you now.
Have fun and happy riding.

The Ja)(04





    

This message has been edited by themopedwhiz from IP address 151.144.164.55 on Apr 10, 2004 7:46 PM This message has been edited by themopedwhiz from IP address 151.144.164.55 on Apr 10, 2004 7:41 PM

Posted on Apr 10, 2004, 2:56 PM
from IP address 154.5.160.179

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Thanks ! it's been a while by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

since me or anybody else

posted the whole 'RUN thru' for a beginner

this board has been up 5 years, come this July

maybe your uncle has been a visitor here

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 10, 2004, 7:54 PM
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How do I get more power out of my 1982 Honda PA50II?

by (no login)

Worked on the carb a bit last summer. Will run 30-35 on flat, takes a lot just to get it up to 10-15mph. Plus, after a ride, it will stall on me when I stop. What's wrong?

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 2:51 PM
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Re: How do I get more power out of my 1982 Honda PA50II? by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

there are several possibilities on the stall

too lean...

or maybe the carb has a partial clog on the inlet and doesn't have enough fuel in the carb at the time of a quick stop

try this test

back off the throttle about half way BEFORE you would normally stop..
and coast into the stop.. instead of running balls out and slamming on the brakes..

if the motor stays running during test stops..
then it means you need to clean the fuel petcock , fuel line and or inlet nipples or float needle seat.
because the fuel isn't getting into the carb fast enough

more power

check out www.50cc.nl
pick 50cc automatic
pick Honda
pick 'Camino'

you can get 70cc bore kits
performance exhaust
performance maloosi carb

slow take off

goto Honda and get a new drive belt

you can also change the weights in the variator


TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 8:43 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.55

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Same Problem/ looking for 81 wheels can anyone help?

by (Login JesseLJames)
Moped Riders

i have the same problem
i think i dont have the right mixture setting on my carb (79 express biturbo)
i have no clue wether my mixture is right
my plug is half white and half dark
it was half white half tan when i put the pipe on and has darkened up on one side
my ped shuts off at stops too through and the onlything i could do to make it better was throw on the choke when i was about to stop...but that diesnt work when theres a pedestrian walking in your path
i wish i could make the stock express go fast without doing anything to it!
~jesse

Posted on Apr 9, 2004, 6:39 AM
from IP address 68.102.199.230

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How do I make my moped go faster?

by (no login)

Hi, I have a 2003 Kymco Cobracross, and i was woundering how i would go about puting or taking out( i don't know which one i have to do) the cluch boss so i can make my moped go up to 50 mph. i already disconnected the rev limiter, so it now goes up to 35 mph. please email me if you know how i can do it, or if you know of any websited that can help me...it would be greatly appreciated...Thanks

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 1:37 AM
from IP address 67.52.78.129

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try this link by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

http://scooterbbs.com/cgi-bin/board/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID11&conf=DCConfID1


www.scooterBBS.com

and pick the twist & go link

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 9, 2004, 8:41 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.23

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Welcome... jazooka & further876 by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

NM

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 8:38 PM
from IP address 151.144.165.35

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Yes,welcome!

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

Further...I know you! LOL! don-ohio (:^)

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 5:39 PM
from IP address 12.109.127.66

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Me?!?!?

by Tad (no login)

Ok Don, I am from Ohio. Is it possible you know me?

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 8:25 PM
from IP address 24.131.18.63

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Don't I know you from other forums,Further?

by (Login don-ohio)
Moped Gurus

Like the mopedarmy and moped2.org forum or maybe Ike's or the MRA? don-ohio (:^)

Posted on Apr 9, 2004, 5:00 PM
from IP address 12.109.127.66

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Honda spree advice

by (no login)

I just purchased a Honda Spree at a garage sale and was wondering if there is any way to make it go faster?

Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 6:44 PM
from IP address 68.109.167.217

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Spree

by (Login ntonar)

First, I should put this on a word format and do a cut paste once a month, but what the heck typing ain't that hard. Next you will want too copy paste to a word format so you can print this out. It is long and detailed.

This pulley mod, is for sprees and it is done to change the gearing and give more top end speed. On a average modified spree, I was able to hit 45 mph + easily. Dick, on a highly modified spree almost hit 70 mph.

Pre-step A. You will need 3 washers 1/16" thin, 3/4 inch outside diameter, 1/2 inch inside diameter. These will be used to align the front pulley after mod.

Pre-Step B. You must mark on the front pulley with a pencil or something where the outside of the belt rides on. You will need this measurement to get the riding circumference of the belt on the front pulley before. You will do it again after the mod. By having the two circumferences and subracting the difference and dividing by two you will have the length to add to the stock belt. It is just basic geometry. Circumference is diameter times pi. We divide the difference by two because the belt only rides on 1/2 the pulley at all times. Also the diference in percentage of pulley circumference will be the percentage gained in top end speed. If you wanting to calculate and exact number

Step one: Remove the tranny cover to expose the drive belt and drive pulleys.
2. Remove the rear and front pulley, anything more than 3000 miles on the spree and you should look at the clutch shoes in the rear pulley. If they are less than 1/16 inc thick replace them. Also you will need the old belt removed so you can take to autozone or equivalent to get a new belt.
3. On the front pulley assembly, you will have two pulley halves. A thin steel one with teeth and a thick brass colored one. On the brass colored pulley half you will notice a lip on the inner surface.
4. This lip is a fixed spacer between the two pulley halves and sets the drive gear. The farther away the two halves the lower the gear and more low end power you will have. The closer the halfs are the higher the drive gear will be and the more top end speed you will have.
5. So a filing or grinding we shall go. Remove however much you feel squirrely for. The more you remove the more top end speed you will have. However you will lose on low end torque. You must buy a longer belt.
5.1 Reassemble with the old belt. Mark the ride height on the pulley. Disassemble and do some math. Refer to pre-step b.
6. By making the front pulley drive face larger, the belt will force the rear variable pulley apart. This basically does a double whammy on your low end gearing. Because not only have you increased the size of the front pulley, you have decreased the size of the rear pulley, since the belt doesn't stretch. To reduce the effect you must by a longer belt.
7. So add the number from pre-step b to the stock pulley length. Go to the auto parts store and ask them for a belt that thickness with the specified length or as close as they can get. It will be about 80 percent cheaper than buying a new belt from honda.

8. Reassembly, using the washers not all, only the amount needed. Whatever thickness you removed from the front lip, 1/2 of that thickness must be added to the rear of the pulley for proper alignment. Plus the other 1/2 of that thickness must be placed between the outside pulley half and the mounting nut. It the pulleys are not aligned close the belt will wear out quickly and power will be lost to friction.

Final note. the more you remove the more top end speed you will get, but you will, even with the longer belt lose low end power and torque. It's like starting a car off in second gear instead of first.

Good luck Tallberg


Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 5:29 PM
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SALE: Better Lightbulb System than Original

by (Login JesseLJames)
Moped Riders

hey
you need a headlight where you only need to replace the bulb itself
i have the solution
for $25 plus shipping you can get it
it fits in the the original bracekts of the NC and NA's and it will only cost you around $3 to replace the lightbuld if it should ever go out
i am using them in both my peds right now and they are great
the system even comes with the wiring harnes so theres no splicing needed
email me at slimysenor@yahoo.com for more info
~jesse

Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 6:37 AM
from IP address 68.102.199.230

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NX50M Express SR question

by (no login)

Since the SR models have the 12 volt system, will they also fry the headlight if they are run without a battery or with a dead battery? No mention of any of this in the owner's manual, but the headlights are very expensive if they can be fried simply by a dead battery.

Posted on Apr 6, 2004, 4:57 PM
from IP address 207.191.236.25

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YES ! all express models have this fault by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

Honda did not but a distinct separate voltage regulator in any of the express models..

everyone one of them has this fault

TheMopedWhiz

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Posted on Apr 6, 2004, 8:43 PM
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Rectifier??

by (no login)

Ok, but then what is the rectifier do on these bikes?

Posted on Apr 6, 2004, 11:38 PM
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Re: Rectifier?? by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

the rectifier is just that a single diode that changes one half of the AC wave from the mag/alternator to DC for charging the battery and running the horn and signals..

if the AC voltage goes up ( full throttle) the DC volts goes up

when the AC volts goes down (IDLE) the DC voltage goes down..

it does NOT regulate ( maintain a constant setting )

when you take something out of the circuit, something else goes high..

read the post made recently about " balanced load "

the express (all models) is a balanced load system..

everything must be there..for it to work right

TheMopedWhiz

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Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 8:32 PM
from IP address 151.144.165.35

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82 Urban Express Deluxe NU50M electrical problem

by Tad (Login jazooka)
Moped Riders

First let me state that I have done a ton of Google searches for this problem. I found very similar problems. I followed the recommendations, but still no luck. Scooter runs fine, but nothing electrical works. No signals, no headlight, no horn, no indicator lights. The battery is new and fully charged. The headlight and signal bulbs are all new. The fuse that is right off of the battery is OK. The wiring itself has never been modified and appears to be in good physical condition. I noticed a couple of relays and other items under the seat. What are they? Is ther another fuse somewhere? I have looked at the wiring diagram @ expresslymopeds.com, but it appears to be for the Urban Express and different than mine?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Tad

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 6:23 PM
from IP address 24.131.18.63

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wiring problems .. no power by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

you do have a 12 volt battery right.
the NU50 is a 12 volt system

under the seat is the turn signal flasher and the starter relay

check the battery voltage at the battery, then check it again with the motor running

it should be higher so as to charge the battery

next with engine off check all the connections coming from the top of the motor..

these are green/ground

ignition blue/yel black/red

charging white

headlight yellow

make sure these are all clean tight and not broke

the ignition is on a circuit by itself

the headlight is on a circuit directly form the mag/alternator the yellow

everything else is on the another circuit with the battery the white going to the recitifer





TheMopedWhiz

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Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 9:24 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.78

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Still no luck with NU50M electrical problem

by (no login)

Whiz,

Thanks for the info. The battery is correct. It is a YB4L-B. The charge is 12V. It does bump up when running. Can't say exactly how much as my tester is analog and only switches between 10V and 250V. I have inspected all wiring to the best of my ability. It all appears to be clean, dry, and unbroken. I read your reply about twenty times. You indicate that all electrics reside on a total of three different circuits? What do they have in common that would make all three inoperable? Almost all discussion I read is in regards to NU50. According to what I read the horn should at least work. A bad battery won't fry the horn, will it? I'm not even worried about the electric start, but that is puzzling as well. I decided I wouldn't fool around and bought all new bulbs. Now I'm kicking myself. There has to be one thing in common to cause all systems to not work.


Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 9:24 AM
from IP address 156.77.105.123

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Ground connections by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

the ignition is working so leave those wires alone

those are the blue/yel and blk/red from the engine

and any blk/white you come across

the first color is the main wire color and the second is the color of the stripe

check all wires that are green .
use your meter make sure all green wires read continuity to the frame and the engine

the engine and the frame and the battery negative and the green wires should all read as connected

the grn/yel is not ground.. that is the power for the brake light

I didn't ask but you do have the key for the main switch right ?

sometimes people buy a bike where the key off has been bypassed and they are using the kill switch for the engine..

you have to have the key to have your lights / horn /starter

the ignition is one circuit

the charging/battery/horn/signals is circuit #2

and the headlight is circuit #3

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 8:55 PM
from IP address 151.144.165.35

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Getting closer

by (no login)

First of all Whiz, thanks for all your help so far. I do have the key. The ignition switch and kill switch are OK. At least if I turn them off the engine turns off. I have checked every dark green wire there is and they all go to ground. It appears that I don't have any thing hot going to the headlight or horn/signal circuits. But like I said, the ground is good on each circuit. Where do the hot wires go first from the positive battery terminal? There appear to be two larger wires, maybe one big one,(hard to tell as it is securely encased in gray sheathing) and one smaller wire with a fuse inline. Do they go to the ignition switch or somewhere else? I feel like I'm getting closer. At least this is a good excuse to hang out in the garage. Unfortunately my wife doesn't share my enthusiasm for this little adventure.

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 8:40 PM
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Re: Getting closer by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

once you get it all lit up

she just might take it away from you
it has happened before, to other people on this forum

the yellow wire from the engine is the power for the headlight , it goes to a connector that has a wire going directly to the light switch horn button

a blue wire and wht wire goto the headlight this is high and low
a green ground and a light green wire which grounds the horn when the button is pushed

the wire from the battery/rectifier connection goes to the key switch and connects to a black wire (making it hot) when the key is on

the black wire provides the power for the horn, the brown to the tail light and the power to the flasher for the turn signals

incidentally you have to squeeze the brake levers when you push the start button or the electric start relay won't pull in


TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 8, 2004, 9:06 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.55

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STill driving in the dark

by (no login)

I had to take a break from this problem to do some work around the house. I got back into it and I think I understand the problem. I bought an accurate tester and it appears that in fact I am not getting a charge to my battery. I took off the flywheel cover. As I understand it there are two pickups on the magneto, one for the ignition and one for the charging system??? The one that is a red coiled wire appears to be fried and has that smell. Is this the source of my lack of power for my lights and horn? I thought that with a good battery and the key turned on that at least my horn would work??? What part is it I need and would a honda dealer be able to get it for me?

Posted on Apr 16, 2004, 8:17 AM
from IP address 156.77.105.126

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Would anyone be intrested in a 87 elite lx engine?

by (Login ntonar)

I have a 1987 elite lx engine that I am not going to use. I was going to put it into my spree(So I could up grade it) but dont have the money to do so now. I was going to put an exhaust and the 65cc kit in. I have everthing but,

Things it needs
-Rear rim and tire
-Exhaust

Things it comes with
-Carb (everthing, choke, dual cable) no air cleaner
-Intake
-Starter motor
-Kick start (compleat)
-Engine plastic

pretty much everthing but the rear tire/rim and exhaust

I have pics I could e-mail, willing to ship in the U.S. from michigan

-Nick

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 4:08 PM
from IP address 24.236.200.190

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Interesting...

by (no login)

...What's the potential? Are you sure the motor mounts the same as the Spree? Does this engine run a variator? Thanks for your time. -DP
- The best is yet to come -

Posted on Apr 6, 2004, 9:50 PM
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variator... yes by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

the exhaust port comes off the the cylinder at a different angle and the carb intake configuration is slightly different..

there are lots of performance parts available...somethings like piston & wrist pin change between years.. newer ones being bigger than older ones and not interchangeable.. but that is not a problem..

there are bore kits
exhaust kits
clutch kits
even water cooling kits and radiators..

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 7, 2004, 9:04 PM
from IP address 151.144.165.35

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Mounting

by (Login ntonar)

Well from what I know the elite 94+ engines can go into the spree with out much work. This is the same mounts and the newer elites. The front mount (where the long bolt goes) looks to be in the same spot. I think the elite engine is wider then the spree engine so it might need a spacer in place. The shock is in the same spot and uses the same shock.

One of my friends has done the swap and says its pretty easy, I am pretty good with this stuff so I really didnt look into details. -Nick

Posted on Apr 9, 2004, 9:24 AM
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Honda 87 elite big bore, low compression, how does this look?

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

I don't have a camera to easily take pictures, so I'll describe what I saw.

I posted a few days ago about my scooter having really low compression and what I should do about it. I decided to open it up and put the old (stock) cylinder and piston back in, while keeping the new exhaust (and of course the tranny kit). I removed the head and found a bunch of black, dry deposits all on the inside except for about a 30 degree part of the circle. On the top of the piston there is also a lot of black deposits. The intake and exhaust ports were also filthy with black stuff, some of it wet-looking. There are also several (3-4) vertical marks about 1/8" wide on the cylinder wall. My stock piston and cylinder are very clean in comparison.

What do those symptoms indicate was happening during the short (500 mile) life of the big bore? (I've tried to find websites, but searching just gives me tons of sites to buy stuff from)

Thanks,
Nate

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 1:52 PM
from IP address 128.253.199.115

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Also- plug...

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

The plug looked like it was burning just fine. Kinda reddish with no deposits. There was some white on the part of the plug that the wire plugs onto. That could be salt from the road maybe... Not sure really.

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 3:25 PM
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Piecing it together

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

I found some good faq's that are helping me figure this out. It looks like there is some blow-by on the piston wall because of the black color I see. How do I know if the rings are bad? The top one is kinda 'looser' than the other, but is that ok? Also, there is a large scrape at one side of the piston below the rings. When the engine seized when I first took it out of the shop when the mechanic tuned it, that must be the damage that was caused. A similar sized scrape is near the bottom of the cylinder wall. So to go back to the original piston and cylinder it will probably be necessary to get the head machined a little bit? It was actually machined down by the mechanic for more power when we did this, but a little more to make sure it's perfectly flat would be good? Finally, the head had a some chunks of stuff on it that were white, as well as a black coating over the whole thing.

I already have new seals when I put the old piston/cylinder in.

Thanks for any input.
-Nate

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 4:38 PM
from IP address 128.253.199.115

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How do I clean the head?

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

I think I should clean the head because it had deposits on it, how should I do this? Is a rag good enough?

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 5:39 PM
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the white is aluminum from the piston by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

clean the head with carb cleaner rags a PLASTIC scraper or a fine bristle BRASS brush..

the head is aluminum and easily damaged

Don't mill the head anymore unless you absolutely have too.

i always recommend NOT milling the head

these are low compression engines 7 to 1 , very little milling and the compression and heat level go to highfor the aluminum piston..

yes i have seen pictures of 49cc aero's turned into 102cc drag bikes running NOS and water cooled cylinders but street life is severly limited at those levels

built up hot street scoots are running 80cc water cooled with pumps and radiators forged cranks and pistons.



TheMopedWhiz

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Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 9:41 PM
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carbon deposits by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

carbon deposits can be caused by the wrong oil or by a carb jetting to rich

carbon deposits create several problems

you loose intake volume, and you raise compression, this causes the head and cylinder to overheat

the scoring on the inside of the cylinder is why you have low compression now.

it occurred when the engine got hot and started seizing.

check the piston rings, and condition of the piston for damage..

TheMopedWhiz

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Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 9:11 PM
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Piston ring bad

by (Login natespaint)
Moped Riders

There is blow by past the first piston ring, and it is really loose, so that is definitely bad. There are also some scoring on the piston, and I'm pretty sure it was from overheating. The engine actually only seized once, and there is a fairly lage (dime-sized) scrape on one side. Other than that there are scrapes near the hole where the pin that holds the piston to the connecting rod goes on. So I don't think the piston is re-usable. I'm just going back to stock right now. I may purchase a new head and rings for the stock piston (as preventative maintencance). The head is $60 from the dealer, and the rings are $21. Quite a rip off to me. The head doesn't look warped to me. There was some leakage of hot gases, but I hope that was due to high compression or other things. I used several objects layed across the face, and they all seemed to show the same shape from any direction on the head. I'll toss the head on as-is, test compression, then drive to the shop to get some carb cleaner, then remove the head again and clean it.

One more thing. The head gasket is not flat, it has ripples at the inner-edges. Is it possible to put it on upside down?

Thanks

Posted on Apr 6, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Re: Piston ring bad by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

if a new gasket has a rolled crimp on the inside circle i place that side down..

if you are talking about a used gasket..

you placed a gasket with the stock size opening combustion chamber over the opening of the big bore cylinder and the piston smaked into the gasket because

when doing bigger bores the gasket must match the cylinder bore and the combustion chamber in the head must be radiused out to the same diameter

this all documented (written up) on the bigbore how to page and has been posted here on the forum..

if the chamber is not opened up, compression will be too high, the flame progation will not be right, and the heat and carbon will be increased

sounds like you really compounded your problems when you got that thing put together... i realize you went to a shop... but some places are better than others..

i don't think i would trust those guys again.

TheMopedWhiz

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Posted on Apr 6, 2004, 8:54 PM
from IP address 151.144.165.11

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Injector lube

by (no login)

What can I use for injector lube on a 82 Honda Express. I just bought it , it has bad gas so I thought I would drain old fluids,clean carb, air filter,and spark plug, Also sound like I should check muffler. Where can you get a battery for these? Also is there anything else I should check before I crank on it.

Posted on Apr 5, 2004, 4:23 AM
from IP address 209.240.205.63

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See above post 'on garage sale express' by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

as for the battery any motorcycle dealer can get it for you if he doesn't have it in stock

plain old clear vinyl tubing of the right diameter..

try the hard ware store or the aquarium supply store or hobby shop

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 10, 2004, 8:00 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.55

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De restricting honda engine

by (no login)

I have an AJS DadyW DD50E
It has a Honda SS50 engine which is restricted to 28mph
by the carbureta
Does anyone know how to derestric it
Would pay for help if required
I am 45 years of age and aquired bike from my nephew
need a bit more speed

Posted on Apr 4, 2004, 2:57 PM
from IP address 195.93.34.7

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is your bike a 'mini trail' clone ? by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

if so , you have 4-stroke engine

which is different from the Honda 2 stroke engines usually discussed on this page

you can start with a bigger exhaust , air box, and carb jet, but anything more than that is going to require getting the correct info from another website..

changing the bore ( cylinder & piston ) is a lot more work on a 4 stroke engine, because of things like valves and timing chain's

if it has a 2 stroke engine give us some more info and we can help

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 4, 2004, 8:42 PM
from IP address 151.144.164.81

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members ! remember to LOGIN at Network54 login by (Login themopedwhiz) Moped Gurus

your post don't have to be held for review..

but you have to login for network54 to post them

TheMopedWhiz

Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun

Posted on Apr 4, 2004, 9:00 AM
from IP address 151.144.165.66

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