This Forum is Moderated general Public postings( No login ) will be held untill approved Those who join ( No Charge ) will have their postings go up immediately I am not the only moderator, please bear with us
BEFORE you post a question, you Might just Find your ANSWSER...if you will READ previous postings
Visitor's may ask questions...or try to answer questions other's have posted..
I am not responsible for accuracy of the response's posted by other visitor's
No profanity allowed..in either the question or answer.. NO Flaming !
Comments or questions can be about any model moped...and be either technical or mechanical..
Restoration or just fixing...
Tip's on peformance are welcome..I'm not at fault if you get a ticket for making your moped go to fast..
Open since July 17, 1999
When you post, chose the email response option , you will be emailed responses to your question
Hi
I'm having a problem getting my headlight to work.It's a trac moped and I have power to bulb and it won't lite.I tried grounding the outside of bulb to engine and it still does not work.The bulb is a good 6 volt.Any ideas???? the tail light works but is real bright and the brake light works also.
Thanks BILL
BILL
Posted on Feb 29, 2004, 6:57 AM from IP address 24.61.237.211
How do you know? Can't always tell just by looking,yannow? Mopeds usually are really simple at the headlight. The center contact is hot and the base is ground.If there are TWO contacts AND 2 filaments,it has a high-low beam capability.If it has two contacts and one filament, one of the contacts is a ground.
I thought most Tracs were 12Volt?
The taillight is really bright because either the bike needs to be lighting the headlight, or the bulb is the wrong wattage.A typical 6V moped taillight is 5 watts and the brakelight is 10 watts. Hope this may help? don-ohio (:^)
Posted on Mar 2, 2004, 12:06 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
Can any one please tell me how to make my 1981 Suzuki FA50 go faster! I would really appreciate it if any one could help. Email me at wheeler740@yahoo.com
Posted on Feb 28, 2004, 3:36 PM from IP address 68.78.201.133
The original message was received at Sat, 28 Feb
2004 22:13:08 -0500 (EST)
from web14306.mail.yahoo.com [216.136.173.82]
*** ATTENTION ***
Your e-mail is being returned to you because
there was a problem with its
delivery. The address which was undeliverable is
listed in the section
labeled: "----- The following addresses had
permanent fatal errors -----".
The reason your mail is being returned to you is
listed in the section
labeled: "----- Transcript of Session Follows
-----".
The line beginning with "<<<" describes the
specific reason your e-mail could
not be delivered. The next line contains a
second error message which is a
general translation for other e-mail servers.
Please direct further questions regarding this
message to your e-mail
administrator.
--AOL Postmaster
----- The following addresses had permanent
fatal errors -----
<hoffmanbkr13@aol.com>
----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to air-xk02.mail.aol.com.:
>>> RCPT To:<hoffmanbkr13@aol.com>
<<< 550 hoffmanbkr13 IS NOT ACCEPTING MAIL FROM
THIS SENDER
550 <hoffmanbkr13@aol.com>... User unknown
Final-Recipient: RFC822; hoffmanbkr13@aol.com
Action: failed
Status: 5.1.1
Remote-MTA: DNS; air-xk02.mail.aol.com
Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 hoffmanbkr13 IS NOT
ACCEPTING MAIL FROM THIS SENDER
Last-Attempt-Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 22:13:15
-0500 (EST)
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Feb 29, 2004, 11:11 PM from IP address 151.144.165.70
hey
i just baught a 79 express II
its a junker but i want to get it fixed up real nice
brakes rusty
seat torn up
starter pedal doesnt budge
needs tank caps, fenders, tubes, headlight housing, break pads, and maybe some things in the engine department that i havnt seen
the guy sold it to me for 20$ and i was ganna pay 45$ for the headlight housing alone on ebay
god is takin care of me!
~jesse
Posted on Feb 26, 2004, 5:41 PM from IP address 68.102.199.230
hey
when i got the ped the front wheel didnt turn and neither break levers budged
i opened the front wheel and scraped out all the rust inside the breaks and put the front wheel back together... now it turns
then i untightened the back break and now the rear break lever can be squeezed
but the front break lever is still stuck
also the starter lever (winder pedal) doesnt go down at all....
i took all kinds of things apart last night just to get used to how it is built
i took the front piece of the engine itself off and saw that there was alot if charred black stuff on the top of the cilinder right neer where the sparkplug fires...
i need to get a manual so i can see how to get the rest of the engine apart
also i descovered that there are a ton of wires and plugs around the carb/ air system... that makes everyting more complicated (remember im all new to this)
but anyways i gues i just wanted to see if anything sparked your attn.... i wish i could just give it to one of you guys and make it run then you give it back to me .... haha
~jesse
Posted on Feb 27, 2004, 9:01 AM from IP address 68.102.199.230
are you the reall jesse james that i am dieing to meet !!the big :glorafide welder:and if not i will help you eney way , in eney way i can i know how all this **** comes and goes back together so ask me and i will respond back to you !!hope to take to you soon !!thanks micheal
Posted on Feb 29, 2004, 3:22 PM from IP address 68.164.10.232
hey
i took the carb out and apart and the whole inside was covered with really tacky oil like stuff
so i went out and baught some carb cleaner and im ganna go out and spray it off....
one thing though
i dont know how ti take the choke and throttle cables off the carb!?
i unscrew the nut that keeps the cables on but then they have springs i dont know how to take off
also when i took the cilinder head off (as noted in second post) i saw to piston top and it was blackened too...
i dont know if this matters....
but i want to see if it will turn over but i cant get the kick starter to budge
how do i find out if it will turn over if i am in the situation
~jesse
Posted on Feb 27, 2004, 2:16 PM from IP address 68.102.199.230
you may just want to replace the piston and be done with that as well (like 25 bucks)be shure to take the head to a machine shop to have it bored out and get the specs from the shop before you buy the piston so you no what size to get !!and for the carb i took pics of every thing before i took mine apart so i know how it all goes back together !!and just take the carb apart and use compressed air to clean all of the jernals out and it will be fine !!now the kick starter i just dont know man ??? you will have to play with that sorry >>>>>>>>>hope this helps you !!peace micheal
Posted on Feb 29, 2004, 3:38 PM from IP address 68.164.10.232
hey
i was cleaning out the carb and i took the float out and there was this metal looking thing , very tiny, and it had a rubber point at the tip...
i was reading the other comments abotu carbs and i think the thing i found in the carb it the needle....
the rubber point has fallen off and i just found the needle just hanging out in the carb not connected to anything ... so dont know where to put it....like i said earlier i need to get the manual so i can figure this stuff out... but in the mean time where can i buy one to replace it?
~jesse
P.S. i have a list of the things im ganna need to get it going:
front and rear breaks
70cc kit - $76
fuel and oil hoses
proma exhaust - $100
jets for the carb
headlight - $18
battery - $9
headlight housing
tires
tubes
starter pedal (not the whole crank)
key & ignition
air filter
service manual - $25
if any of the prices look rong let me know, also let me know what the other prices are
Posted on Feb 29, 2004, 10:58 AM from IP address 68.102.199.230
I have a 1977 honda express. I have been wondering how much the genorator makes at wide open throttle, about how much does it make? I have been hesitent about buying a battery because i am afraid of the battery blowing the headlight, and i have went through many headlights. Also what could be the best bulb for the headlight (voltage and amperage)? and advise to others who have a express. I bypassed the tail light, so when the headlight is on the tail light comes on(the moped origialy had the tail light on all the time)the brake light operates as normal.
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 6:20 PM from IP address 64.12.96.167
hey
well only a little
i have now burnt out my second buld on my 79 express
i am waiting on the parts dealer to get another one in (ill tell you how i have mine set up in a sec) but he has the battery in his shop (mines out i think)
so now that i have no battery and no headlight am i puting my ped in grave danger of being something that it shouldnt?
when i got my ped it can with the original headlight but it was out so when i went to the moto shop they gave me something that looked the same except instead of the bulb being perminent there was just a hole at the place where the bulb would be on the original peice...
what i can remember from reading on here is that you guys cut out the hole yourselfs.... well this one is made from the factory like that... it even has a groove where a notch on the lightbulb can fit in....this set up makes it alot easier on me... and the buld and headlight casing only cost me 18$...
anyways another ? i had is what number of bettery to get...
when i look on ebay the battery part number has two 2's in it.... but when i look on this web site it says one 2 and one 4...
are they diffrent... and what do the numbers mean?
thanx and forgive my ignorance
~jesse
Posted on Feb 26, 2004, 6:58 AM from IP address 68.102.199.230
.......running around without a headlight anyway. That headlight gets you noticed and could save your life if it prevents someone from pulling out in front of you. don-ohio (:^)
Posted on Mar 2, 2004, 12:16 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
I just got a 1980 honda express nc50 off of a friend that didnt want it. (he gave it to me ) Anyway i was trying to get it to run and knowing a lot about american small engines i figuered i could do it. I thought that the engine had its own recoil that made the spark so i started snipping wires. They were all bundled together so i cut them all .. i was going to just ahve a running ped then worry bout electronics. Anyway i cut the wire for the spark plug. What sould i do i cant find anywhere that will sell a new one.? Please help...
Posted on Mar 1, 2004, 2:25 PM from IP address 66.42.132.114
I own a 1979 suzuki fz50 (rascal). I can't find a preformance exuhst that lists my bike. Im not realy looking for performance just looks and noise...eather/or. If anny one knows about a pipe that would fit my moped, a name of the pipe and a link would be apreasheated!
P.S. i think i mite have seen the biturbo on a few suzuki fz50s but im not shure..... PLEASE SOME ONE HELP ME!
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 6:04 PM from IP address 207.5.205.71
Hello all. It has been over a year since my last post. I had formatted my hard drive, and lost the URL to this website. Anyway, my 86' spree has no back brakes. Which kinda sucks, because the front brake isnt the best thing to use when going fast, plus my shoe was worn down. I think it has somthing to do with the break cable because it feels realy loose. The brake is still attached at both ends, and works somewhat. Is there a place where I can tighten the cable. I noticed that it looks like I will have to take the tire off to get to it. But if there is another place, that would be great. Thanks again,
Scott
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 12:38 PM from IP address 205.232.76.38
hey scott i have a 85 spree and on mine there are to places to ajust the rear breaks one is at the rear wheel just srew it in till you have more break easy fix !! or on the hand lever it self has a ajust mentplay with it you will get it !! or you may just have to replace the break shoes in the caliper !hope this helps ya !!micheal
This message has been edited by don-ohio from IP address 216.158.91.50 on Feb 29, 2004 4:02 PM
Posted on Feb 29, 2004, 3:47 PM from IP address 68.164.10.232
Yeah, the little screw thing was all the way down, I took off the wheel, and say that there was no pad. I just took the front brakes, and put them in the back, took about 5 minutes. Its funny, because I have drivin it for a good 4 years, and never had any break problems. lol
Posted on Mar 2, 2004, 4:32 PM from IP address 205.232.76.123
I hope someone can tell me what is the best & most powerful (2 hp, 50cc, most torque) 2 stroke and 4 stroke engine for mopeds.
I know most small enginines are are simply made for weed-wackers, then stuffed inside mopeds. But does anyone actually make a high torque engine designed for vehicles (like a small liquid cooled DOHC motorcycle engine)?
Or is a general purpose weed-wacker engine about as good as possible for that small engine size?
thanks!
Maybe I ask for too much.
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 12:34 PM from IP address 68.5.157.55
Moped engines are fairly heavy-duty long life engines in general. There are all types>.....wet clutch single speeds,geared with wet clutch,variator pulley driven, tire scrubber types(Solexes), dry clutch single speeds or variator.....so many types impossible to list here.
So saying they have weed-wacker engines is incorrect except for a very small percentage.
The best engines in my opinion that are single speed(this includes an incorporated tranny).....Minarelli,Franco-Morini,Puch,Sachs,NVT-Morini,Garelli,Honda Express,Suzuki FA50,Yamaha QT50.
The most powerful because of high rpms and no limiters?....Derbi comes to mind with 11 hp or more at over 12K rpms.
For 2-speed mopeds,the Franco-Morini and Tomos and Puch and several others are good.
If you're talking limited HP mopeds, there were a lot of mopeds over 2HP. Derbi variant models were very powerful(seems like mid to late 1980s).
The above are all mopeds or nopeds, not snail looking scooters like the Honda Elites or Sprees. The scooter family,though ugly,LOL, has more power because they are NOT mopeds in most States and don't have to limit gearing and HP. don-ohio (:^)
This message has been edited by don-ohio from IP address 12.109.127.66 on Feb 25, 2004 6:08 PM
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 6:07 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
......the general route from Wellington and up into detroit and around lake erie,back thru Buffalo, Erie, and on back to Wellington?
It looks do-able on a 35-40 mph machine because it looks like there is a smaller road or two most of the way above the lake and below along I-90?
Bill,can you describe that route as far as for slower machines? Thanks! don-ohio (:^)
Posted on Feb 24, 2004, 7:38 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
The checkpoints will in no way alter anyones route. There's only one way in and out of Canada (hint, hint) and the other checkpoints will be common to every contestant regardless of the route chosen. Believe me when I tell you that the checkpoints will not be a deterent to your riding the event.
Bill
Posted on Feb 27, 2004, 3:51 AM from IP address 68.76.73.42
is there a main jet that i can just swap out that would fit my carb? im mostly running this bike at full throttle so it tends to bog down alot. will i end up spending to much to make this thing go fast? i do want somthing with more power. maybe an 80 is the way to go. how fast on average would an 80 go?
Posted on Feb 24, 2004, 7:13 AM from IP address 65.102.115.65
I am having the same problem too after getting a cylinder kit on my SR. I have found the Keihin (carb) website and will try to find the right part. I'll post if successful.
Posted on Mar 10, 2004, 2:13 PM from IP address 199.107.64.228
Assume they are rated for the same HP from the same company.
Which is more reliable?
Which is smoother?
Which usually has more torque with the same HP?
Any other benifets one has over the other I need to know about? (besides noise, emissions, and mixing oil)
Should I be concerned with 2 stroke oil fouling up the spark plug?
thanks!
Members on this board seem very knowledgable.
Posted on Feb 23, 2004, 4:26 AM from IP address 68.5.157.55
if you compare by HP , you will have engines of different sizes
back in the 60's the fastest bike on the race rack was a yamaha 3 cylinder 2 stroke..
it consistenly beat all the 4 strokes even the hondas
a 2 stroke engine fires the sparkplug every stroke on every cylinder.. 1 , 2, 4, it makes no diference.
a 4 stroke engine fires each cylinder , every other stroke.. on every cylinder.
a 50cc moped 2 stroke and 50cc 4 stroke are 2 differntly design engines.
the 4 stroke will have better gas mileage than the 2 stroke..
the 4 stroke will need regular oil changes, just like a car..
the 2 stroke revs faster easier.. and the only engine oil is in the fuel..( usually an injection tank )
keep Injector oil in the oil tank and sparkplug fouling is usussaly not a problem.
the 2 stroke is easier to work on, and easier to modify..
no timing chains, no cams and valves
in most states the DMV regulations ,a scooter or cycles with a 4 stoke engine even 50cc's qualifes as a motorcycle , due to the HP rating from the factory..
and has to have the proper ,tags, driver lic.. insurance..so forth
think about these things.. check your state laws, then make your decision
Posted on Feb 23, 2004, 8:25 PM from IP address 151.144.164.55
injector oil in the FUEL....2 stroke oil gets burned..
oil is in the fuel mix.. either by premixing.. or by injection into the carb or intake manifold...
the gas-air-oil mix is drawn thru the crankcase where some of the oil is deposited on the moving parts to lube them.. some of the oil goes into the combustion process with the gas and out the exhaust pipe..
the oil in the crank case is constantly renewed by the fresh oil coming in with the new fuel charge..
and yes trannies and gear boxes take small amounts of normal oil that has to be checked now and then..
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Feb 24, 2004, 8:48 PM from IP address 151.144.165.86
I appericate all the explaining.
One point I am still not clear on is where does the burned (dirty) oil go? Out the exhaust pipe? That is good enough to remove all the nasty burned oil waste?
thanks!
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 1:31 AM from IP address 68.5.157.55
It may after a time build up carbon deposits on the cooler parts of the exhaust as it exits,much like burning wood in a wood stove builds up creosote in the chimney over time. Synthetic oils build up less hard carbon deposits generally, and make a little less smoke, but they cost more.
As the MopedWhiz said....a 2-stroke need no crankcase oil. The oil is supplied continually to the moving parts by the fuel whistling thru the crankcase. don-ohio (:^)
Posted on Feb 25, 2004, 5:50 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
I have a Honda elite 50 s and I took of the kick start cover and there is a pulley in front and the clutch in back the pulley has a nut in the middle I cant remove it if I turn the nut the pulley just turns how do I get it off also if it opposite thread
Posted on Feb 22, 2004, 7:11 PM from IP address 152.163.253.1
but me, I take the flywheel cover off,on the right side..
and use a wrench or spanner or someother tool to hold the flywheel so it dosen't move, and then loosen the nuton the pulley.
the pulley and the flywheel are both attached to the crankshaft..
if you hold on the other can't turn... Ta.DA
TheMopedWhiz
Ride Mopeds..SAve Gas..Have Fun
Posted on Feb 23, 2004, 8:46 PM from IP address 151.144.164.55
......who asked about a bogging problem Dec. 29th(message #73 at this time).
I couldn't get the message to approve so I copied it in case `Noy' is watching the forum. This is the post JAX made:
`Your problem is most likely that your running rich. As the engine heats up it no longer requires as rich of a mix to run and speeds up until it gets to the point where its oxigen starved. You can start to leaning out the idle mix, and perhaps moving the throttle needle to a leaner position.'
UNQUOTE.
Posted on Feb 22, 2004, 5:12 AM from IP address 12.109.127.66
First,if there's room for a second nut to screw up against the first,try tightening one against the other, which will lock them both on the shaft and then when you turn them it MIGHT bring the stud out. Always do this with a HOT engine or at least fairly warm.
Then if that fails, the proper sized `vise grips'pliers might bring it out.
Last option is to weld a nut on the end of the stud and turn it out that way. The stud will come out more easily if the motor is fairly hot,because aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel. don-ohio (:^)
Posted on Feb 22, 2004, 5:19 AM from IP address 12.109.127.66
it started off as when i was riding it, it would jerk every once in awhilethen it turned to do it every couple of seconds, then stop, then start to do it again about 2 minutes later.then after about 10 minutes later, i stopped at a store, then tried to start it up, but it would do it without me even riding it (seemed like it would get some sparks, then just not get none, then get some)then i turned it off, waited a few, then tried again, but it wouldnt even start. it would just backfire. the backfires were loud and it sounded like i had good compression.any advice?
Posted on Feb 20, 2004, 11:02 PM from IP address 209.240.205.63
hey
also to go along with me wanting to go 40 on my express
my breaks squeek really bad
how di i make em stop... are they squeeking cause they are gone or do they just have dirt in them
i only have 1500 miles on it
a guy at a shop here told me i just have dirt and i need to take em apart and clean it out
how do i do that
does anyone have a diagram to show me how to do it
~jesse
Posted on Feb 20, 2004, 3:14 PM from IP address 68.102.199.230
i just wiped all the crap out of the breaks and they stopped squeeking
but then last night someone decided to see if they could push over my ped.....
and they did
only now that they pushed over my ped (while i was sleeping) the whle headlight housing has been broken off....
so now i am looking for a headlight housing and an oil cap
i really wish people knew not to touch other peoples property
~Jesse
Posted on Feb 22, 2004, 3:52 PM from IP address 68.102.199.230
i have a cold clathode neon from my pc. its 12v so it should have no prob on my scooter right? how do you all think i should wire it up? i was thinking haveing a switch under my seat, near the battery. its going on a nx50m. and its blue, just like the bike.
Posted on Feb 20, 2004, 7:08 AM from IP address 65.102.115.65
hey
i tried to do the same thing
i had 2 neons for a while but i just got tired of it
the way i had em on there was with electrical tape...lol
for the trouble of puting them on there you dont get much fun out of em
plus i have a 6v circut and the neons needed more than that to get em bright
i want to get a 12v conversion
good luck
~jesse
Posted on Feb 20, 2004, 3:11 PM from IP address 68.102.199.230
well i think it would work but how would you mount it on the bottom of the floor board the wiring will work but I suggest not to use electrical tape get wire solder it to the switch then solder two more wires to washer and bolt them to the battery tell me if it works if u use it k
Posted on Feb 21, 2004, 9:14 AM from IP address 64.12.96.167
In our country it is generally accepted that bigger is better. In just a few short years, our beloved Big Twin has bulked up from 74 cubes to 80 and now to 88. On rare occasions though, smaller is the way to go.
You may recall reading about Bill Murar, a firefighter who rode the 4 corners of the U.S last year to raise money for ACBC (Aluminum Cans for Burned Children). Astride his trusty (?) steed, a 1965 Sears 106cc, Bill faced every imaginable obstacle from mechanical failure to personal loss, but he persevered and completed the ride raising thousands of dollars in the process. Having had time to ponder his approach to fund raising, Bill is introducing “The Lake Erie Loop” as his ACBC Foundation fundraiser this year.
The objective: To circumnavigate Lake Erie in the shortest time possible, which sounds easy until you read the classes.
Class1: Unlimited 50cc motorcycles and scooters including Pre ’68 4 strokes up to 110cc. Unlimited modifications. Class 2: 125 cc motorcycles and scooters, including Pre ‘68’s up to 160cc Class 3: 200 cc motorcycles and scooters
I believe I can ride around the 650 miles of Lake Erie’s shoreline as fast as the next guy-so I’m in. I spent some time checking available inventory, and the only thing I came up with was a friend’s 1965 Suzuki 55cc 2-stroke step through. With several weeks work and my best Rollie Free laid down riding style,45 mph was terminal velocity for Suzy and I , and I believe it will take much more than that to be competitive in Class 1.
So, sticking with the bigger is better approach I began cruising eBay for a suitable Class 3 mount of 200cc or less. The planets were aligned and next thing you know I am the only bidder on a genuine 1972 Honda CB 175 Super Sport. I like the sounds of that “super sport” on the end – kind of racy. 300 miles and 4 1/2 hours later it’s center stage in my garage and it runs.
Now, before you go getting all hot and bothered that I’m riding a rice burner in this event,realize that Harley’s of less than 200cc don’t exactly grow on trees. If you’ve got one you’d like to run in the Lake Erie Loop –step right up. The entry fee is just $50 and if you place in the top three of any class there are payouts. So what are you waiting for Spanky? You’re not letting that fact that there will be two boarder crossings on this ride slow you down are you? You’ll be back in the states before your P.O. even knows your gone.
The run will have 4 checkpoints. The first will be at the start near Cleveland, Ohio. Second prior to the border crossing between Detroit and Windsor, Third after the crossing between Fort Erie & Buffalo and last back at the start. Riders must have proof of insurance, a motorcycle endorsement, wear D.O.T helmet and ride a street legal machine with functioning lights, horn and odometer.
The event will take place May 14-16th (longer for some, shorter for others). If you’d like more information you can call Bill @440.856.6272 or email to HYPERLINK "ALLSTATECLUB@YAHOO.com" ALLSTATECLUB@YAHOO.com.
I’m hoping the Thunder Press Express Super Sport, prepped by Blue Spark Racing, will be fast enough and dependable enough to provide a fun trip. A podium finish would be great to but a lot of things can happen to an older bike. To mange the risk of break down, close friends and family (to be named after the drawing) will be chasing me in my pickup filled with tools and spares. I am serious about competing, which occasionally leads to winning. I may even look to gain inside information from reputed Thunder Press columnist and known Canadian, Roland Haug as to the quick line on the “backstretch” of the Lake Erie Loop.
In the coming months I will be operating under a veil of secrecy pertaining to the race prep and sorting out of the machine. The shades are drawn on the garage windows and all information will be on a need to know basis. Following the event, and my subsequent release from a Canadian prison, I will provide complete race coverage, win lose or draw.
By Ernie Copper
Posted on Feb 19, 2004, 8:16 PM from IP address 151.144.165.38
The Lake Erie Loop (LEL) is a fundraising event to benefit the "Aluminum Cans for Burned Children" Foundation (ACBC). ACBC provides many services for pediatric burn victims, mostly through the collection of discarded aluminum cans. The foundation provides medical supplies including special bandaging materials needed for the care of burns, a scholarship fund and a summer and winter camp, all at no cost to the children or their families. The "'Learn Not to Burn' trailer" is another feature of ACBC. This adolescent sized two story house trailer travels to almost every elementary school in north east Ohio to teach young students about burn safety in their own homes.
Raising additional cash for ACBC through motorsports was started in 2003 when Brookpark firefighter Bill Murar, an avid motorcycle enthusiast, rode over 12,000 miles to the four corners of the United States, many of them on a 1965 Sears 106SS motorcycle. Bill is continuing his fundraising efforts in 2004 by sponsoring the "Lake Erie Loop", a 650 mile endurance run around the lake to be completed in one day.
There will be two distinct groups involved in this event; under 200cc bikes that will be competing for cash prizes and unlimited size bikes riding along for fun. For the smaller bikes, this will be an all out endurance run to see who can complete the trip in the shortest time, ala the "Cannonball Run". These bikes will be divided into three classes; unlimited 50's – if it started life as a 50cc it's elegible and vintage bikes up to 110cc's. 125's – up to 125cc's and pre '68 bikes up to 160cc's. 200's – up to 200cc's and any Cushman style scooter with a stock motor. Tourist Class – any bike, any size.
The cash prize for each of the three "small bike classes" will be a 50/50 split of the entry fees in each class. Entry fees for the run are $50 for the small bike classes and $25 for the Tourist Class. IE, if 20 riders enter the 125 class, $1,000 will be paid in entry fees, $500 (a 50/50 split) would go back to the class as a cash prize. The $500 would be paid out to the top three riders with the first place rider getting 65% of the purse ($325), the second place rider getting 25% ($125) and the third place rider getting 10% ($50).
The LEL is a three day affair that will begin and end in Wellington, Ohio on Friday, May 14th. We'll gather at the Panther Trails Campground on Friday, head out around Lake Erie on Saturday and hand out awards on Sunday. There is no official route, all we ask is that every rider leave Wellington and go through Detriot, across Canada to Buffalo, then come back to Wellington. You pick your own route, ride safely at your own pace and return as quickly as possible. There will be a few checkpoints along the way, the location of these checkpoints will be revealed just prior to departure to help ensure "fair play" amongst the riders.
All participants must have a motorcycle endorsement (if one is required in your state or province). Wearing of helmets is encouraged and mandatory in most of the areas we will be riding through and proof of insurance must be provided. A birth certificate or passport will be required at the border crossings between the US and Canada. Failure to bring one of these documents will bring very long delays at customs. All motorcycles and scooters must have working head lights, tail lights, brake lights and horns. All riders will be required to sign a waiver release form prior to the ride.
Please indicate the class you will be entering.
___Class 1. Unlimited 50cc. If it started life as a 50, it's elegible. Must retain the original bottom end, however, any after market top end is ok i.e., a 70cc kit on a 50cc motor. Pre-1968 up to 110cc.
___Class 2. 125cc motorcycles and scooters. Pre 1968 up to 160cc.
___Class 3. 200cc motorcycles and scooters, all Cushman style scooters.
___Tourist Class. Any size bike, any age bike.
*Note. The "Like Rule" will be in effect, i.e., a 1969 Sears/Gilera 106cc is essentually the same as a 1965 Sears/Gilera 106cc, therefore even though it's outside the year limit, it's a "like" model and elegible for Class 1. Any questions about legality in any class should be forwarded to Bill Murar at the address below.
Information on your bike.
Year______________________Make_________________________
Model_____________________Size in cc's_____________________
LAKE ERIE LOOP LIABILITY FORM
Each enrty must be street legal with good tires, working horn, working lights (head light, tail light and brake light), and a working odometer. These things will be checked on Friday, May 14th. During the event all riders are encouraged to wear proper riding gear and a helmet. Riders will need to carry a birth certificate or passport to ensure trouble free travel at the two border crossings. As there is no official route, no chase vehicle will be provided. It is up to each entrant to make sure their vehicle is in the utmost of readiness as this is a long, hard endurance ride. A list of motorcycle and scooter shops around the lake will be provided prior to departure. These shops know what we are doing and have agreed to assist whenever possible. Due to the "competitive nature" of our participants, certain specifics have been left out of our registration form. These items will be made known Saturday morning prior to the first bike off to help ensure an even playing field.
Campsites for two people will be $12.00 per night including an electric hookup. Fri. night dinner will be $5.00 per person for burgers, hot dogs, potato salad, condiments, etc. NO BEVERAGES, please bring your own. The Sun. pancake breakfast will be $3.00 per person and will include pancakes, ham, coffee and OJ.
The entrant agrees to hold harmless The Murar/Neelsen Foundation, Panther Trails Campground, the Northern Ohio Fire Fighters, the ACBC Foundation and any and all others associated with this ride, from any injuries or death or liability claim incured while riding to, during and after the Lake Erie Loop ride.
___Vehicle entry $50
___Vehicle entry – Tourist Class $25
___Camping fee (2 people per site) $12
___Fri. cookout $5 each
___Sun. breakfast $3 each
___Total due
Please send check or money order to:
The Murar/Neelsen Foundation
42121 Peck Wadsworth Rd.
Wellington, Ohio 44090
PAGE
PAGE
Posted on Feb 19, 2004, 8:23 PM from IP address 151.144.165.38
First thing to play with on the CB is the gearing. My CL175 will hold 10,000 rpm (about 80 mph) in 4th gear. My CB175 never sees 10k rpm in 4th and loses speed up hills. Stock sprockets on the CL are 17 tooth front and 43 tooth rear. The CB has 16 front and 38 rear. Dropping the front to 15, keeping the 38 rear will give you the same ratio (2.53-1) as the CL.
Posted on Feb 24, 2004, 3:05 PM from IP address 4.10.162.48
