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Comments or questions can be about any model moped...and be either technical or mechanical..
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Open since July 17, 1999
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In a little over 30 minutes, I get off for quite a few days. During this time I sure hope to get that new engine mounted onto my newer Sebring. I also hope to pick up that Top-Tank Targa(looks just like my Buddy,Kevin H's Targa) I bought that has no engine(I have an almost complete engine).Gotta get it in Columbus so that's an excuse to visit Handy Bikes...NATURALLY! HA!
I tried to post this earlier,but I musta' pushed the wrong button! Ha!
Well, everyone please ride safely but do get out and ride! don-ohio (:^D
Posted on Sep 18, 2003, 3:23 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
Some of the new batteries have the fuse holder in the line. This is why you aren't seeing it.
You can get an inline fuse at Radio Shack. Run it 7 to 10 amps. The new square fuses are better than the older round ones and the holders are more secure.
Rob
Posted on Sep 17, 2003, 4:13 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
85 Honda Aero 50 still not starting. Earlier post said I could check the reed valve by putting my hand over air intake to check for suction. Put my hand over intake,felt suction and scooter started. Also got a hand full of gas?
Take hand away and no start. Why is it starting with the air intake covered and why do I get a handfull of gas?
Posted on Sep 17, 2003, 11:10 AM from IP address 63.148.71.98
Check the choke. It's not working properly and when you put your hand over the inlet it draws fuel and cuts off the air. When you take your hand away you lean the mixture and the cold engine dies.
RobD
Posted on Sep 18, 2003, 5:56 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
i recently bought an 82 nx50m with over 4k miles on it. do i need to pull the carb out to clean it well, or can i spray a bunch in there? will that work as well? what else should i look for or do to help this bike? im new at this.
Posted on Sep 17, 2003, 7:09 AM from IP address 216.161.250.137
...........don't MESS with it!
If it's runnin' bad, try 2oz. of carb.cleaner per gallon(no more than that ratio) and make sure you change out the spark plug. don-ohio (:^D
Posted on Sep 17, 2003, 11:52 AM from IP address 12.109.127.66
Hi all,
Recently bought a 1999 Yamaha Zuma with 50 miles on it that sat up for 3 years. I boiled out the tank and carb, and even replaced the vacuum petcock on the tank. Problem is the carb leaks gas from the overflow line while running and/or for a while after its stopped.
Any ideas why? It runs great and fast otherwise.
Thanks, Tommy
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 3:41 PM from IP address 68.11.175.243
has anyone put a cone style airfilter on an nx50m? do you think i would notice any gains with one? im new to the motorcycle thing, but ive seen them on cars alot.... also is there any way to get a dirtbike muffler legally running on my bike? i just think it would be a cool sound, maybe packing it with somthing?
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 9:37 AM from IP address 216.161.250.137
Two things:
The air filter, especially on mopeds, is an integral part of the carb. system. Changing it drastically will also mean that you have to rework the main jet. The best thing to do is get the original filter from Honda, which is already presoaked in oil.
The exhaust on two cycles is also designed for a specific purpose and it has a certain amount of back pressure to keep things in balance. The best bet is to use a designed aftermarket pipe if you want to increase your power. Most have details about jet mods to go with their system.
RobD
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 2:43 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I have this moped starting easily and it runs. However when you are driving around it will stall out and die. It is more likely to stall out when it has to make a little effort-- like going up an incline. Sometimes by reving the throttle you can save it and it will not die out.
I have cleaned the carb, new spark plug, and battery. Any ideas on what I need to do to make this a reliable machine?
-Pat
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 6:11 AM from IP address 68.12.132.80
It might be the slow running jet in the carb, I had a similar problem and spent quite a while cleaning it, it took several attempts before I was successful, maybe if you immersed the entire carb in petrol for a day or so this might be the easiest way,
These machines have oil injection and as a result the carb jets are much narrower than a pre-mix engine and so clog easily,
As a final are you sure the tank is ok, its not unknown for the seal between the oil tank and the petrol tank to break down resulting in the oil mixing with petrol in the tank, the machine will run for a while but eventually the oil will goo up the jets
Posted on Sep 20, 2003, 12:48 AM from IP address 81.131.160.232
Need airbox & muffler assembly for 1981 Honda Express NC50
by
(no login)
I need the entire airbox assembly and exhaust/muffler assembly for a 1981 Honda Express NC 50. Anybody out there have a part(s) that will fit? I was told that the 1980 airbox won't fit because they re-tooled the mounts in 1981. Can't verify that, but would listen to somebody who can!
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 9:22 PM from IP address 68.101.115.247
Need airbox & muffler assembly for 1981 Honda Express NC50
by
(no login)
I need the entire airbox assembly and exhaust/muffler assembly for a 1981 Honda Express NC 50. Anybody out there have a part(s) that will fit? I was told that the 1980 airbox won't fit because they re-tooled the mounts in 1981. Can't verify that, but would listen to somebody who can!
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 9:20 PM from IP address 68.101.115.247
I just bought an 82 Express SR to add to a collection of Sprees and an Elite that we use at a campground. It runs great, but seems a little squirley when driving. The front wheel turns and steers freely when stopped, but feels like it pulls a bit to the left and I find myself over steering to keep it straight. Is this normal for a nx50 compared to a spree?
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 5:46 PM from IP address 12.208.128.188
I have '81 Express-SR that has been sitting outside under tarp for about 7 years. I have removed gas tank to find much rust inside. I completely removed rust with an excellent Yamaha product. I purchased new fual petcock and battery. I have the air-filter box removed as well. I can get her to run for about 2-3 seconds and quits right away. Any help on my next move would be appreciated!!
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 10:30 AM from IP address 64.118.144.106
You have to clean that carb in a good carb solution. They sell them at Napa. Get the one you soak the carb in. See the note about cleaning the needle jet on this board also.
RobD
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 3:57 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I've only heard bad things about the Kreem product. Mainly that it breaks up into small pieces over time, although I have never used. I used Yamaha's rust remover and neutrilizer and I can say this stuff is amazing! My tank was badly rusted and flakey, after 3 hours the tank surface was looking like new.
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 6:56 AM from IP address 64.118.144.106
I've searched and searched, nothing about cleaning the needle jet has come up. My diagram shows needle jet inside screw-on throttle cable assembly into top of carb AND another at bottom of carb hanging into bowl. Which is more important to clean? Do i need to dissasemble the screw-on part of the needle jet?Should i mess with screw sets A & B on left side of carb?
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 7:56 AM from IP address 64.118.144.106
It's all in the application. I'm very careful about "kreeming" a tank and follow the direction to a tee. I also let the tank dry several days before filling it. So far I have had no failures. Poor adhesion comes from poor prep and it's all in the prep work. Still I always run a filter on the output to make sure no small particles get into the carb.
You can neutralize the rust with the Yamaha solution but it doesn't stop the rust from forming over the winter again as far as I know. I guess it's ok if you fill the tank to the brim and put a stabilizer in it.
The Puch is the worst. Not only does it rust in an instant but the tank is an integral part of the frame. So you get a leak about the same time your frame breaks in half. Who came up with that idea? Go figure!
The best solution is my Towny. It has a plastic tank!
RobD
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 5:01 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Yeah, maybe that guy at dealer didn't no what he was talking about. He also told me that I was risking eating through the metal because "it's so thin from rusting" which is nonsense. It was just some typical flakey rust. I even had tank there for him to see! It was obviously not paper thin!! Plastic tanks are much better yes.
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 8:42 PM from IP address 152.163.252.136
I've read a few of the posts about by-passing the autochoke, I'd like more specifics. Is it correct to block off inlets on intake manifold and the carb inlet? What about the remaining tubes going to the autochoke control box? Cap them off right at the 3-way plastic housing? Cap end of tubes?
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 6:48 AM from IP address 64.118.144.106
I made a manual choke for my Spree after hours of trying to rebuild the bad auto choke the previous owner left me. Two cycles heat up so fast you only need it for starting. The trouble is without a choke it's a bear to start in the slightest cold weather. The best thing to do is take out the autochoke and remove the brass end with the needle in it. Put that back in the carb and find a way to keep it from moving up. (The choke is off when it's completely seated.) Then cover the whole thing up from the top to keep crud from getting in.
RobD
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 5:08 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
No I'm totally confused as to where the autochoke resides on my bike. I was under impression that it was the rectangular box with three tubes going out of plastic "flute" -one to intake manifold, one to carb, and other ties into bystarter element. You are talking about something else?
Posted on Sep 16, 2003, 8:34 PM from IP address 152.163.252.136
I'm not sure if your ped has one. Some do, my Spree for one but my 78 express doesn't.
The mopedwhiz might be able to shed more light on your specific ped.
RobD
Posted on Sep 17, 2003, 4:07 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
the spree, aero, elite ,dio soforth have the electric choke..
the autobystarter as honda calls it ( auto choke ) is a tiny thermal ( heat ) operated valve mounted in a rect. box on the right side of the cylinder
it is not nesscessary to cap off the choke , you can if you want to and it will keep dirt out of there.. but the vacccum nipple on the intake and the inlet nipple on the carb are the spots that have to be blocked off.. to make the carb is air tight so it doesn't run lean..
Posted on Sep 18, 2003, 8:59 PM from IP address 151.144.165.70
You may have several probs, the float valve inside the carb may be seized, if this is so the carb will either overfill with petrol running out the overflow pipe (the machine will start but not run long as the mixture will be far too rich ) or if it is stuck shut the carb will either not fill or fill so slowly the engine will draw more petrol than it can supply leading to a over weak mixture and cutting out, be carefull not to loose the spindle or float valve when you dismantle it to clean it
Also in addition to the above check both the slow run and main jets are clean, I spent half an hour trying to clean the slow run jet
The problem could also be electrical have you checked the points gap ?
In my experiance sudden cutting out usually means elecrtric problems and a slowly dying engine with no power = petrol probs, though there are always exceptions
Posted on Sep 20, 2003, 12:34 AM from IP address 81.131.160.232
I recently purchased one of these and it doesn't have the original throttle. Is there also a switch to start and stop this. I'm trying to get it running but can't get any spark. Any help will be appreciated.
Posted on Sep 14, 2003, 8:29 PM from IP address 69.5.200.143
Hi. Am having trouble removing my rear wheel to get to the brakes which are squeaky beyond belief. I take the muffler off and the axle bolt and thought the wheel would slide right off - no dice. Is there a trick I don't know about? Special tool? help please!!
Also, looking for an air filter cover. If you have one or have suggestions, please let me know. Thanks a lot!!!
Posted on Sep 14, 2003, 7:14 AM from IP address 204.210.80.74
A few of my peds squeak. I took the rear wheel off figuring the breaks were worn but it was just oil from the axel that got on the rim. I cleaned it and put it back. As soon as the oil migrated out of the bearing it started squeaking again. Now I live with it because it stops after a few miles.
RobD
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 3:53 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I need to know why my carb spits gas out overflow tube when riding fast.If some one want's to send copy of carb, and elictrical diagam. Would be very helpful.thank you
Posted on Sep 13, 2003, 6:16 PM from IP address 152.163.252.136
Sounds like the float needle is not working properly.
You should check the make of you carb and see if youy can go to the manufacturer's web site and download it. you'll need the model number too. It should be stamped on the carb somewhere. ex. Mikuni, 7G2
RobD
Posted on Sep 14, 2003, 5:25 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I have a 85 Spree... I have no manual.. does the drive casing to the rear wheel contain lubrication? If so, where do I check it? Where is the fill location, how full should it be and what type oil (weight) lubrication should it be added if needed? Many thanks
Posted on Sep 12, 2003, 8:06 PM from IP address 67.30.250.212
The total capacity from a dry fill is 3.0 oz (not much).
There is a fill plug on the left side of your spree on the rearmost aluminum cover.(left as if you were SITTING on it).
Hint: using a good quality synthetic oil will provide longer life and LESS resistance.
There is no drain, and removing the cover usually destroys the gasket, requiring a new one for re-assembly.
To check the level, remove the fill plug while the bike is LEVEL. Oil should be right at the bottom of the hole, or trickle out a little. If not, fill it till it does.
A "better than doing nothing at all" way to change the oil is to remove the fill plug and lean the bike so some of the oil spills out, then refill.
Good luck
Posted on Sep 14, 2003, 9:21 AM from IP address 24.218.236.140
Ok, so I finally found the problem with the Kinetic TFR that I've been working on. The woodruff Key was sheared off at the top of the cam. Question, is how'd it shear off in the first place? The bike only had 21 miles on it since new. Is it a weak design where I'm going to have to replace this thing often or did the previous owner do something to cause the key to shear?
Also, Am I going to have to re-time the engine, or will just replacing the key do the trick?
Posted on Sep 12, 2003, 5:50 AM from IP address 12.34.164.85
Usually the key breaks by an abrupt engine stop. It is not a weak link on your ped. Designers intentionally make the key the weak point to prevent severe engine damage.
Was this ped sitting a long time? Perhaps someone tried to get it running and it backfired breaking the key.
You should be able to just replace it and be on your way if everything else is good.
RobD
Posted on Sep 13, 2003, 4:10 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I have a 84 honda 80 Aero For Sale. It is 90% complete. The Engine turns over and carb is complete minus top of air cleaner. I will only sell bike complete and you must pick it up. $100.00 Near Albany` N. Y. Pete
Posted on Sep 12, 2003, 3:28 AM from IP address 152.163.253.1
