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Comments or questions can be about any model moped...and be either technical or mechanical..
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Open since July 17, 1999
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1977 Yamaha Chappy? I removed the headlight can to pop out a dent and now my right front blinker is always on. My headlight is burnt out. Does anyone know if that might be the cause of the problem?
My Chappy also drips a little oil out of the exaust and smokes more than it should. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix that?
Thanks,
Kevin
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 8:51 PM from IP address 66.62.48.238
I picked up the referenced moped several months ago. It is in mint condition but cannot get it started. My neighbor thinks it may be the out-take valve stuck closed. Would really like to know where the valves are and what part of the engine needs to be removed to expose them.
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 6:35 PM from IP address 24.238.160.174
Hi,
I imagine your thinking about the reed vavle. This is the one way valve between the manifold and carb. It is locted at the point where the intake manifold attaches to the cyclinder head. It functions to block air from blowing back into the carb.
Before your start ripping it apart you should check the carb and clean it in a solution made for cleaning carbs.
I advise soaking it over night then blowing it out with air.
The reed valve is stainless steel so it doesn't rust. It is possible to stick partially open but your engine will still run, just very poorly. Even if it fractures you will most likely still run. I've seen these in good condition even after several thousand miles.
I also advise getting a small lawn mower filter and putting in the fuel line after cleaning the tank and Kreeming it. (look for 'Kreem' with your seach engine)
RobD
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 8:45 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Thanks so much for your help. As soon as I have some free time, perhaps this weekend, I will try to expose that reed valve. I kinda thought that was the location of it but could not remove the screw - was afraid of stripping it which would have caused more problems than I wanted to get into. Is there also an out-take valve and is so, where is it? You would't have a diagram of that motor? 1978 Express? Be great if you could scan and email. If not, that's OK. Thanks again friend.
Posted on Sep 12, 2003, 4:08 PM from IP address 24.238.160.174
Fred,
There is no 'out' valve on two clycles. Check this forum for tips and tricks on how to fix a leaky valve. Again, this won't stop your engine only make it run poorly.
Also remember not to rev up your ped without a battery attached as it will blow the headlight.
RobD
Posted on Sep 13, 2003, 4:18 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Took the engine out of the Kinetic TFR tonight. Really not too bad of an ordeal. Had it out in less than an hour. Found the problem to be the woodruff key. I'll have one on the way in the morning! Thanks to all the positive help from you folks, it was really appreciated.
Don.
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 5:59 PM from IP address 209.254.129.162
Usually it isn't something serious, but finding the cause is the hard part.
I would talk to that shop that sold you the CDI. They obviously didn't know what they were doing when they replaced it, and it was proven when your bike didn't run with it.
I can pull the engine on my Vespa Grande (same design) in 20 minutes, so removing yours for any reason should no longer be an issue with you. People oftem bitch abou having to pull a Vespa engine to service the ignition, but they don't know how easy it really is.
Be sure you put the spacer behind the clutch with the "brim" of the hat against the flywheel.
Jim
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 6:10 PM from IP address 66.81.24.100
I just went through my Towny completely and brought everything to specs but didn't blueprint it or add any after market stuff.
It purrs along perfectly now and does about 35 on the flats and 26 to 28 up modest hills. Down hill it's pegged constantly.( I weigh about 150 lbs. (68 kgs). I still think it's my best long travel ped. Might take it on a really long trip.
I just got an 85 Puch Maxi Sport LS. It's very different from my Japanese peds, very German in its engineering. No plastic either. I like the 17" tires. I'm 'Kreem'ing The tank. I think they made a big mistake not have the tank as a separate part from the frame. I hear they go bad and your frame starts to leak. Yikes!! I'm also replacing washers and gaskets in the fuel director. The mix is 50/1 which is quite good also.
I make my own rubber gaskets and 'O' rings. (I'll post a little tip on how to do this.) Anyone have a Puch, what do you think of it? I expect the top speed of this single tranny to be about 30 max on the flats. It's a little noisier than the japanese peds but I noticed the main jet is only .62 so I'm wondering if it get better gas mileage?
That's my next quest, to get the highest mileage ped.
RobD
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 4:17 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Thanks! Good call on the stop switch! Boy, do I feel stupid! I am now trying to fine tune the mixture to stop all the smoke! Also, the choke cable seems to be frozen. It is common for these to rust and freeze the cable? I am fearful of spraying penetrating fluid in the cable because it will get into the carb via the choke plunger. Any advise? I can pull the cable housing and choke the carb, but I would like the cable to work.
Posted on Sep 15, 2003, 12:55 PM from IP address 129.198.241.67
Does anyone know why my 1987 Honda Spree Iowa will not idle. I have cleaned the carb thoroughly, with cleaner and air, about 10 times. It rides good, does about 25, but will not idle. I turn the idle screw and nothing happens. I turn the air mixture screw, nothing happens. New spark plug and gas lines also. Could it be that it is sucking air somewhere? If I put my finger over the two holes on the back of the air cleaner box, it will rev up on its own. Can anyone help, I would really appreciate any advise.
Posted on Sep 10, 2003, 6:10 PM from IP address 24.245.50.199
I have a 2000 yamaha razz that has 6500 miles on it. it runs great. just wondering if this scoot has a govenor on it. it does about 30 mph right now. would like a little more pick up. please e mail if you have any info. thanx
Posted on Sep 10, 2003, 5:15 PM from IP address 66.30.5.20
A known good working Autobystarter (automatic choke).
Cylnder shaped, black plastic, fits on the outside of the carb and has two wire leads attached to it.
click on the email link above the meaasge to email me
Thanks
Posted on Sep 10, 2003, 4:24 PM from IP address 204.161.54.62
ok i just got what i thing it is a pre-1980's express., i was trying to turn it on but didn't fire the first day., on the second day i took off the on/off gas switch that goes on the gas line from the tank to the carb, and it had lots of rust[i will buy one on wed,] and after connecting the line straight it turn on the very first time but i have to keep my hand on the carb to keep it from turning off, if i let go it turns off., looks like the accel. cable works but it does not accelarate the engine at all. only if i let more air thru my fingers it does., i want to get it running before i start sandin it., help! i just got it two day ago and want to start it., thanks ya'll from TX...LOL
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 10:29 PM from IP address 67.210.16.59
.........and make sure you get ALL the passages,even the one kinbda' over in the corner of the float bowl,cleared out.
Then while you've got it off,make sure that both cables, the trigger operated choke cable, and the twist operated throttle cable, are working very easily and freely. Clean the air filter in the airbox and lightly oil and squeeze out the excess.
Now that part you bypassed in the tank, the petcock valve, is really important and has a crucial filter on it to keep your carb clean.
I always install an extra paper pleated see-thru filter in the line too. But before you install that petcock,flush thru any particles and loose rust outta' that tank,or it will just clog up again. Hope you get`er runnin' really good? don-ohio (:^D
Posted on Sep 10, 2003, 2:03 AM from IP address 12.109.127.66
I could delete all of your grips and put downs
( this is MY forum ) but i don't
there where eight (8) un-opened letters/orders? returned ( mailed out ) today..
if i ever get done sorting out the open ones with no M.O.'s in them and match them to the people who did not get their manual.. they will recieve MO for the $28..
I think i just might make sure you are the very LAST one I send out..
just because you want to make a pain out of your self
I'm quite sure you have been taken for money than this in your lifetime but on those incidents you didn't have a public forum where you could vent..
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 8:54 PM from IP address 151.144.165.80
Obviously the boy doesn't understand that you've got a LOT more people in your corner than he could ever hope to have. Thanks for telling the punk off!!
Having transacted business with you before, I know you to be honest and fair.
Send him his $28 just so he'll go away and stop being a whiney little pest. It must suck being him
GO WHIZ!!!
-Craig (IL)
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 9:11 PM from IP address 67.73.164.53
think about it this way(not just whiners, but all):
you are out 28 dollars. what in the world would make your life SO much better if you had that 28 dollars?
think about things a little bit bigger than your pride once in a while...have some respect for other people and their individual lives and responsibilities.
the world does not bend to your wishes. deal.
everyone else has to, you're not any different!
there's my $.02
relax.
-ryan
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 10:57 PM from IP address 24.197.248.59
hi,
i started my honda elite 50 one nite and noticed the headlights and dash were extremely bright and next thing i new the headlight went out... so i stopped the scoot and found that the voltage regulator was left off. now the oil light stays on and the gas gauge doesn't seem to work anymore... anyone know what i would have to replace (the sending unit or the dash console) or what i would be able to fix myself?
thanks
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 12:43 PM from IP address 209.116.151.117
It's me again, and my POS moped. I cleaned out the tank and petcock so that I have excellent fuel flow to the carb. I took off the oil injection and put a premix in because at one time I thought that was the problem(does it have a sensor?). I took apart the carb and cleaned it thoroughly. I put it all back together,(minus the exhast) and it now revs up real high for a few seconds and then dies off. I'm thinkin' throttle or carb again. Any insights would help keep me from setting it on fire and rolling it down a hill.
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 5:42 PM from IP address 205.188.208.166
It's possible you're not venting the carb bowl. Check the orifice in the bowl to make sure it's not clogged. Also clean the needle seat with a tooth pick. (check down the listings for how to do this right). The bowl is not adjustable on this carb but there is a small spring inside the needle and the back tip on the needle should go in and out easily.
Rob
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 6:27 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
"Nobody" in Norway knows or won't answere this question,so i'll let you guys "chew" on it.Rumour has it you guys are the best?
Very sorry for the long post
My "hardware":46,8mm.Polini-sylinder,21mm.Dellorto(phbg21ad)on malossi inlet w/90# mainjet,regulare (orginal)reed ventile,Proma Circuit exaust.
Does anyone have some experience with modding the reed-ventile?
I'm thinking that it may decrease fuel/air mix,and therefor engine power?.
So i'm thinking of "bending" up the stoppers you'll se on the (crappy)picture...
Has anyone a clue on how much(in .mm)i must bend them up?
Will this modding actual increas power or..?
The orginal is just 2mm.from underneat the stopper to the actual leaf thin metal.Maby bend it to 4mm.?
ALL help are very much appreciated
Best regards,Hals
Norway
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 12:53 PM from IP address 213.236.221.2
the stiffness of the reeds determines how high a rpm the will operate at without fluttering,
your best bet is to replace them with some carbon fiber reeds..
check with http://www.50cc.nl
they might some replacement reeds .. i know they stock a performance carb with manual choke and belive it comes with new reeds..
so they might have replacements ..
bending the tabs might stiffen the action of your stock reeds but they might Not close all the way and then your moped will run worse or not at all.
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 8:22 PM from IP address 151.144.165.55
a few 78 honda express parts for sale-wheels $5.00 each-crank $10.00-barrel$10.00-head$10.00-stator & points $5.00-wiring harness $5.oo-handelbars with wiring$5.00-magneto$5-bare left case w/no seal$5-right case $5-bare frame w/honda i.d.$10.00-intake manifold,reed valve $5-oil pump w/gear $5...it's good stuff,but it's gotta go.estimate shipping charges from 92595 area code..make offer on any or all,rather somebody use it than me throw it out. thanks if needed i can e-mail pictures of parts you want
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 12:49 PM from IP address 67.224.105.195
Hi there,
just wondered if you have the plastic headlight bezel, the front plastic part the headlight fixes into, if so I may be interested in buying it from you
regards
steve
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 11:22 PM from IP address 81.131.85.232
I'm curious as to which motors can be swapped into the Express-SR. I have access to a spree motor, can it be swapped in? Are the carbs from other years usable on this machine? If not what are the differences in carbs/motors between the early Express up to and including the Spree?
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 10:52 AM from IP address 64.118.144.106
I am trying to get a Batavus Starflight to go. It is in great shape and is complete except for the fact that the carb intake silencer and air filter are missing. Will it run well without the silencer (I plan to replace the air filter)? I have had no luck finding a replacement silencer. Anybody have ideas? I just finished fixing a Honda C70 and now have the bug to get going on the Bat.
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 9:25 AM from IP address 204.248.22.141
