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Open since July 17, 1999
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I have '87 Spree that just developed a carb problem today. It will run OK below 1/4 throttle, but dies out above that (this is with every thing attached stock). I took off the air box boot (at the carb) and it will run strong at full throttle, but dies out at about 3/4 throttle. I took the carb apart and cleaned it and all jets, etc. looked in good shape and clear. I am guessing a needle jet / main jet issue, but why would it run fine at full throttle with the air box detached? Has anyone had a similar problem? Ideas? Thanks in advance for any help.
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 7:43 PM from IP address 68.86.108.82
When you take off the air cleaner you introduce more air into the system. This means you're running rich. I'd check the needle jet. There's a way to clean it, run down through the threads.
RobD
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 8:54 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I forgot one thing. The auto choke sticks on those machines. It doesn't dound like your problem because it runs with the gas off but you might want to check it anyway in case it's leaking slightly.
RobD
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 8:56 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I buy my Spree parts from a Honda Motorcycle dealer. They still stock parts for these scoots. I think the rebuild kit is costly though. Ask anyone who bought the needle valve, they paid a fortune.
RobD
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 6:22 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I'm having a problem with my Towny timing. I put a light on it and the spark is late. I switch the CDI from my QT and the timing is still off. I turned the piston to TDC and the timing mark is off. Do these things slip crank shafts? It looks like the crank shaft has changed. The key is fine and hasn't stripped but I can't imagine this thing is off at the crank. I don't see any other easy explaination. I even checked the QT which is the same engine and the timing mark is in a different place. I didn't get this ped new and it has 2,300 mi on it.
The bike lurches forth when going on flat road full out but going up hills at 2 or 3 mph less it's fine. It does sound to me like timing.
Tnx,
RobD
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 4:22 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Thanks,
I got the specs on it and checked the coil resistance. It was ok. I'm wondering if the mags lost some of there power and the pick up is not sending out a large enough pulse to the SCR? Just a guess.
RobD
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 8:48 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
have a NC50 that I'm parting out, good lever, no
rubber "tip" or much finish. NC50 and NA50 have the same
engine and parts and should be interchangeable
e-mail if interested
Posted on Sep 9, 2003, 12:24 PM from IP address 198.209.253.1
This a 81 2-speed. I have an extra kick from a 78 but the shaft hole was too small. Let me know if you still think the one you have will work. I also need a rear wheel for a 81,having the same problem with the axel shaft size. I am putting 81 2-speed na express II motor on 78nc50 frame. Everything bolted right up except the rear wheel and I'm missing the kick lever. Thanks Russ
Posted on Sep 10, 2003, 2:32 PM from IP address 12.218.254.38
Thanks for the info earlier. Wanted to see if you could answer a couple of more questions. Just to remind you, I am replacing the motor on a 1978 nc 50 with a 1981 na50 expressII. The oil pump on the new motor has what looks like a throttle mechanism on it. Can I just wire this fully open or do I need to replace it with the nc style? Also the rear wheel has a different shaft size. If I buy a rear wheel from a expressII, is it going to fit the nc frame? Thanks again, Russ
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 3:30 PM from IP address 12.218.242.182
Re: dose any 1 have 1986 honda spree side an front plastics
by Sean (no login)
I am not trying to take any business from the Whiz...
IF
The whiz does not have what you need in stock, please let me know.. We have many used spree parts in stock. I would be happy to sell you a set of side and a front leg guard plastic setup...
Sean
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 4:26 PM from IP address 24.218.236.93
.......but it might just have a `rev-limiter' built onto the CDI unit. Talk to dealers and do searches on various forums and you'll get your answer.
if it doesn't have a CDI limiter, it might have a restriction in the exhaust pipe near the head, or it might have a smaller jet size, or a restricted intake pipe size. Any or all of these might apply. don-ohio (:^D
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 8:34 PM from IP address 12.109.127.66
i was wondering if anyone knew anything about garelli mopeds and if there was a governer on mine or not cuse i cant seem to find it. it is a 1977 garelli supersport xl. PLEASE SOMEONE RESPOND.
THANK YOU
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 9:14 PM from IP address 67.87.64.76
.........but they are restricted as far as air flow amount and exhaust and compression. Things like that all add up to keep `em under 32 mph usually.
What is the problem with yours? How fast do you want to go? if you want to put on a `bore kit'and speed sprocket and speed it up some, call Chris at Mopedwarehouse(he will need to know the exact model,year, and if it a is one-speed or 2-speed)....1877-268-6909 or visit their site at www.mopedwarehouse.com
don-ohio (:^D
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 6:52 AM from IP address 12.109.127.66
Is it true that if you put an orange flag on the back of your Moped you can drive it even if you dont have a license and your not 16 as long as you stay off main roads?
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 6:37 PM from IP address 205.188.208.166
In Maryland, if the bike is under 50cc, you can ride the moto anywhere a bicycle can go without a license or registration. You dont even need a helmet if you're 16 or older.
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 10:53 AM from IP address 151.196.19.83
I have a ignition problem on this bike. I am not sure if the original owner had it wired correctly. The black/white wire from the points goes through a device that meters like a diode. I always thought that the ignition coil on the stator usually stayed AC and went directly to the ignition coil secondary circuit. Does anyone have any information for wiring? Would I burn out the coil if I bypassed the diode? I was thinking that it is wired wrong and that the diode is for the lighting circuit. Also the point gap is very narrow when the timing is correct. The backplate does not appear to be adjustable to allow for timing to be done that way. Any help would be great. By the way this is a great site for information...just not much on the PA50
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 9:32 AM from IP address 207.6.55.127
Thanks for the info on the wiring. You were right about the ignition wires. The bike now starts and runs but not real good. I noticed on the carb, below the air/fuel adjustment that there appears to be a "blank" round disk missing. There is a small hole that goes into the venturi and a passage that appears to go towards the mixing screw. Is that supposed to be covered by a plug of some sort?
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 12:44 PM from IP address 66.183.200.94
I have been into that site before and have looked at the carb. The trouble is it is the side that is not shown where this "plug" would be. Do you recall seeing them on other small carbs? I know as an example that they are often used to cover the air fuel adj on a lot of bikes that are preset at the factory. In this case though it looks as though the passage just continued along under the plug. If someone out there has a pa50 you could just look at the right hand side just below the air/fuel mix screw. Is there a plug or is the round shaped area open to the atmosphere. Thanks...Don
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 7:29 PM from IP address 66.183.200.94
bellow the mixture screw.The plug is not adjustable,but my brother sat in a ordinary bolt,wich he could regulate.But do not bother,just seal it with the plug(tiny bolt with head)
hope this helps
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 11:50 PM from IP address 213.236.221.2
I will try and seal the area with a rubber grommet and epoxy it in place. I can see I have a job ahead of me to get the carb off. It looks as though Ihave to pull the engine...although it does not look too big of a job. Thanks for the information guys.
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 6:40 AM from IP address 66.183.200.94
I will try and seal the area with a rubber grommet and epoxy it in place. I can see I have a job ahead of me to get the carb off. It looks as though Ihave to pull the engine...although it does not look too big of a job. Thanks for the information guys.
Posted on Sep 8, 2003, 6:41 AM from IP address 66.183.200.94
Refer to message 247 dated 2/25 2003 and message 84 dated 5/26/2003. Please send Honda NC 50 express manual to 5411 Heather Bluff Ct, St. Louis Mo. 63128 after 17 Sept 2003 but before I December 2003. I ordered and paid for this manual in June 2002 via postal money order and it was cashed. I would appreciate your living up to your commitment to correct this oversight. Ben
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 6:15 AM from IP address 64.203.228.105
Sad story - help Honda express kick nasty smoking habit
by
(no login)
I have had this little 1977 express quite a while and hate to see it die. It started getting hard to start and occasionally leaving me somewhere cranking and cranking to get it going. When it warmed up it was fine. Then I guess I let it set too long (Oh yeah and I accidentally overfilled he oil reservior) and it got oil in the crankcase BADDD!!! The only way I got it to run was by "manually" choking it. >> (I put my thumb over the carb air hole with the air cover off and cranked it so it could suck gas and then have to keep it there half covered with my thumb as the engine sputters, belches and SMMMOOOKKKES !!!) I am being paid well to keep misquitos from a 50 mile radius in my town Seriously this thing puts out clouds of smoke and then when I think it's done... (I even disconneted the oil pump line till the smoke died down, went on a 40 mile trip to "clear it out" ( I reconnected the hose after I couldn't see it smoking as bad) - it's always the same - as soon as I let it idle for a while instead of full throttle (it idles fine & smokes) then it won't throttle up again - just dies. Then the same 'ole routine of thumb over carb - sputter, smoke, full throttle with "manual" thumb choke. I have had to change fouled plugs. It's almost like the engine needs extra gas to overcome the oil in the cylinder. Once it gets going it runs well but oh the smoke and yu don't dare stop or even let it idle long. Do I have a bad oil pump from overfilling the oil tank ? Do I have cracked rings or piston ? Oh yes a couple more things - It keeps getting worse - I went to take it on another "clean it out trip" and it wouldn't even go this time. I'm afraid to "run it dry" and leave the oil hose off too long. Anyone got any troubleshooting suggestions ? Any help or ideas appreciated. I've been camping on my little moped and hate to lose a good friend to smoking. Thanks.
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 9:56 PM from IP address 152.163.252.136
yes your oil pump might be bad ( but not from overfilling )
it is possible the oil is on a straight gravity feed that your pump just leaks into the carb intake...
also there is suppose to be a tiny ball bearing 'check valve' inside the oil port inlet tube..if this tube has ever been removed and cleaned / blownout this 'check valve' is likely missing letting the pump push to much oil into the intake
also oil 'pooled' in the bottom of the crank is not exactly the same as oil injected into the gas-air mix going into the intake.. one is misted and flows with the fuel mix into the cylinder lubing verything , but the overheated pool residue might smoke in the engine but it isn't doing a very good lube job on the rings and cylinder wall.
there is the possiblity that the smoke was comming from oil collected in the exhaust
i think it's time to check compression and maybe remove the cylinder and check the condition of the rings and cylinder wall
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 6:25 AM from IP address 151.144.164.42
I was having all kinds of truble with the auto choke on my 85 Spree. The original owner , somehow, broke the small ceramic element that expands and shuts off the choke. I finally took it off and machined a manual choke that works quite well. It was designed in similar fasion to my 78 manual express choke. I never really liked the auto choke. I also replaced the air feed fuel valve with a pet cock. Those two problems seemed to help my scoot with a lot of the initial starting problems.
RobD
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 8:24 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I think there are some people who would love to know the part # and make of the fuel petcock, that you used, was it the same thread ? so it would just screw in..
i bet they would like you to make them the manual choke too..
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 6:32 AM from IP address 151.144.164.42
Hi Mopedwhiz,
I had initially thought about adapting the air fuel delivey valve and even machined it apart cleaned it and then epoxyed it back together. When I opened it I found particles in it that were preventing it from closing completely and thus allowing gas to flow constantly.
I felt it was easier to drill a hole in it so gas flowed constantly and bypassing any obstructions. I then placed a small motor cycle filter in the line. I get these at my local Napa parts store and they are about 1/2" (13mm) in diameter and 1" (25mm) long with a 1/4" (6mm) fuel line fitting.(They make two types, make sure you get the smaller one, they fit much better. Cost is about $5.00) This keeps absolutely any foreign particles out of my carb which is very important with these small orifice carbs as you well know. The shut off valve I use is designed for small gas engines like the Briggs and Stratton. It also has the 1/4" (6mm) fittings so everything works together well. The pet cock knob is red for those of you looking for one. Go to a small engine repair place or lawnmower repair place to find them. My box said Briggs & Stratton.
I will be happy to post the plans on my web site for the choke modification but those of you wanting to build one will need a small lathe and small milling machine. The Sherline lathe and mill will work nicely.
If anyone want the plans please email me at the hotmail address above and I'll make up a set of plans and email them to you.
RobD
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 1:24 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
I have tapped umpteen 'RV websites' and small engine websites the last few days.. NO luck.
so i'm putting the call out too the rest of you
I need info on the 'Generac TXP45' RV generator
my onan died in july , i bought this one (25years old and looking new ) this week $275 (127 hours on the meter)
the engine runs great , BUT there is no output
weell i am measureing 4.6 volts AC.. out and 2volts DC on the field, there is nothing burnt or of apparent damage , i unplugged and cleaned all the connectors and the 2 encapsulated modules connection plugs,
a copy of the operators manual, wiring schematic or some service - troubling shooting info would be greatly appericated
the unit was removed from a 1978 winnebago
i hope one of you guys in my generation has one of these in his RV or has some experience with them..
thanks
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 7:33 AM from IP address 151.144.165.91
Is the armature perm. magnet or slip rings and a coil like auto alternators?
It almost sounds to me like the armature voltage is low. Does this thing need a battery to get the armature going?
RobD
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 4:14 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Re: I allways say gather info where you can find it
by Sean (no login)
Whiz,
After a generator sits for too long , it may need to be "excited" to get it working again....
the electrically charged side magnets loose ALL magnetism from sitting and therefore can't start to self charge and produce the magnetism that the armature needs to produce your electricity.
So..
If you can find out how much current is sent to the magnets when the unit is running normally, you can give them a little "jump start" called "exciting" the generator...
Once she starts producing voltage again, they will hold plenty of charge so that this wont have to be done again if the unit is used on a fairly frequent basis....
hope this info helps
Sean...
Posted on Sep 7, 2003, 4:36 PM from IP address 24.218.236.93
i have a 78 express. it runs good, but it is slow at a takeoff. and the back brakes dont work. If anyone knows how to fix these problems, please respond
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 7:40 PM from IP address 152.163.252.136
There is a small jet in the carb body that is inside the tube that runs next to the main jet. It is very fine and needs to be cleaned with great care as not to enlarge it. The best thing to do is soak it overnight in carb cleaning solution and then blowing it out with compressed air.
RobD
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 8:15 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Trying to put a 1981 na50 expressII motor on a 1978 nc frame. the 78 is a points type ignition, the 81 cdi. Can I mount the points assembly on the 81 or do I need to convert to cdi. Is the 81 a 12v or 6v system? If anyone has a electrical schematic of the 81, I would appreciate it. Thanks,Russell
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 11:13 AM from IP address 151.142.239.11
Here’s what I’ve done to my Kinetic to try to get it to start
- cleaned the carb probably six or seven times, it’s not dirty, there’s no buildup, no varnish. Used pressurized cleaner to force through all orifices, all clean.
- remixed with fresh gas and oil
- replaced fuel filter and hoses
- sprayed starting fluid in spark plug hole and through carb
- pulled muffler off and blew through it, seemed ok.
- Pulled spark plug and cranked the pedals checking for spark, has nice blue spark
- Replaced the CDI on recommendation of a repair shop
- Disassembled the headlight and checked the wires on the switch, they’re ok
- Checked the tail light, it lights up while I’m pedling and so does the headlight.
- Pulled the cylinder head off looking for a bad head gasket, clean as a whistle, no blow-by, checked the decompression lever system, it’s ok as well.
- Checked the head compression, and my gauge stops at 120 and that’s where it’s at
- Plug is wet when I remove it, but not soaked.
What else is there to do? I have a borrowed carb on the way to test with.
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 8:29 AM from IP address 12.34.164.85
I spent 5 hours yesterday trying to start my 1978 Express NC-50 i bought for $25 several months ago. It only had 500 miles on it. The only thing that I can think of to help you is to make certain your out-take valve is not stuck. I have been told that air, moisture etc, can enter the engine straight through the muffler causing the valve to stick. Best to plug end of muffler if left for long periods of time or exposed to the weather outside. I don't know how to get to the valve or where it is. A little WD-40 a tapping the valve will free it up. Since the timing is strictly mechanical, the motor will get out of timing with a stuck valve. I have compression as I removed the head but nothing going out the muffler. I did remove the muffler and tried starting it and it did backfire. I've been told this is a sign of a stuck valve. Hope you have success getting your machine to run. For me, well, I'm trying to find a site to go to so I can visualize the diagram of the engine. If you know where the valves are, please let me know. Thank you so much. Bill Wykoff, Houston, TX.
Posted on Sep 11, 2003, 8:41 PM from IP address 24.238.160.174
hi everyone... im new to this group..so be easy on me...
i'm an aussie guy, 22, living in taiwan. obviously, this means i use a scooter as my daily transport... now i've got an old (about 7 years) Yamaha Forte 125... i dont know if the name is different in other areas... but its really lacking in power.. its not a problem during the week, but on the weekend i like to thrash it through the mountains...
i'm not sure if i wanna tune this one, or get a new one first.. ive been looking at the peugeot jet force.. its beautiful, and supercharged too... but i would have to import it, which could lead to all kinds of problems..
so.. for a few simple Q's
1) what's a good scooter for tuning... preferably 125cc - 250cc.. preferably newer too
2) is there any companies that sell turbo or supercharger kits for scooters that i can look at?
3) i've heard that modern yamaha scooters are not really good for performance tuning..
thanks guys
Posted on Sep 5, 2003, 2:38 AM from IP address 211.23.94.78
