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Open since July 17, 1999
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Usually if the filter is wet its because its clogged and is not allowing enough air to pass through. If its not the stock filter, and is new, then it probably wont work cause its too dense.
Posted on Sep 6, 2003, 5:02 PM from IP address 151.196.19.83
My 1978 honda express only runs for about 30 seconds with the choke on then it dies 100 ft. away from my house. Any ideas on what is going wrong there is fresh gas and oil in it and i have tried to trouble shoot the problem but i have not been very successful.
Thanks.
Posted on Sep 4, 2003, 5:46 PM from IP address 65.28.198.245
Just tried to replace the gaskets in it and when I put it back together all the fuel leaks out of the fuel bowl through the small pipe that comes out of the bottom of the fuel bowl. Any idea what I did wrong?
Posted on Sep 4, 2003, 4:19 AM from IP address 209.49.118.18
Are you sure it's the bottom of the fuel bowl and not the overflow?
If it's the bottom then you need to tighten the drain screw, perhaps it's lose?
If it's the overflow then your float needle is sticking or not right.
RobD
Posted on Sep 4, 2003, 7:13 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
when i full throttle my spree it turns off my motor. if i let go of the throttle my spree turns off. i have to throttle it a little for it to stay idling. i adjusted the idling on my carb. when i try to rev it.. it doesnt even rev.. it stays at idling pace and when i full throttle it.. 2 seconds like it will die out.
Posted on Sep 3, 2003, 9:02 PM from IP address 67.118.121.201
I just checked the schematic on my 78 express and it looks like the headlight is on its own alternator leg. I don't see the battery in the circuit. I'll check it again but I'm going to do some experiments too.
RobD
Posted on Sep 3, 2003, 7:57 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
Thanks,
Next question. In the end I will check it myself on my scoot but what is the Voltage to the headlamp, at full throttle, without the battery in the circuit and with the headlamp disconnected? The circuit I'm designing will most likely use PWM (pulse width modulation) to limit the voltage at high rpms. Right now I'm in the SPICE stage. (SPICE is a simulation program for electronic designs that will give me a good idea of the power and losses incured.) A three terminal regulator whould be a very simple solution but it has one big problem. It has a loss through it of 1.2 volts (this is called insertion loss). What it means is the voltage to the lamp will always be 1.2 volts lower than the voltage going into the regulator. So the lamp at idle will be dimmer than without it in. The other problem is that the full 2.7 amps the bulb runs at will be absorbed by the bulb as opposed to the PWM method where very little power is absorbed by the circuit.
Hope this isn't to complex for some of you.
RobD
Posted on Sep 4, 2003, 8:00 AM from IP address 12.152.146.222
took a job as a field engineer for a yamazki machinery.. then CNC ( computer numerical control - industrial robotics { milling, lathes , lasers and everything in-between } ) tech for Borg WArner and other's
before the defense market took a crap 12 years ago, the place where i was working, went belly up owing me 6 weeks of pay i never collected..
took up a more leisurely life style since then ; but i'm still years away from an offical retirement..
turned 56 last week..
but back to the question , I have measured over 50 volts AC at the headlight without a battery in the circuit on a totaly stock urban 50, which has a 12volt system..
so figure on at least 20 to 30 volts on an express with a 6volt system with no load of any kind
Posted on Sep 4, 2003, 8:26 PM from IP address 151.144.165.38
i just got the bike today-it has good spark but gas tank was off . it is missing a connector i think- it never had a petcock per owners book-but their are 2 fuel lines from carb -but only one hole under tank that looks like it is treaded. i spit some gas down the lines and fired right up but died due to no gas. one line seems to let me siphon gas but other if u blow in it wont let age flow into it--question is what do i do with the lines to let gas tank feed into carb -how do i do it right or rig it up... thanks email me at llang60979@aol if u can help--
Posted on Sep 3, 2003, 6:01 PM from IP address 205.188.209.48
Can anyone out there tell me where I might find a fuel valve for a 78 PA50 Honda? This moped has been in storage since 1980 and has only 120 mile on it. Any suggestions on what might work for a valve?
Posted on Sep 3, 2003, 8:33 AM from IP address 63.242.50.184
I have 1 Honda NA & 5 NC frames. I am in the process of making titles for all of them. I will keep 3 for myself. I was a Honda mc mechanic years ago & know these little machines. I will professionally paint all frames once titled. I am wondering if anyone has a need for a titled frame. All frames on Ebay are selling as untitled ... therefore selling dirt cheap. I'm wondering if there is a market for selling titled frames on Ebay. Won't have the frames ready untill sometime this Winter. Here, Texas requires that mopeds be titled, registered, insured & annually inspected ... the rider must also have a Motorcycle license, not just a car or moped license.
Posted on Sep 3, 2003, 7:37 AM from IP address 206.104.30.180
i have just bought a 1985 honda spree. it started but when i gased it.. it wouldnt do nothing!! it will just stay at idling pase and if i gas it all the way it dies out. gas came out of the exhaust.
Posted on Sep 2, 2003, 10:20 PM from IP address 67.118.122.235
I just purchased a honda express II at an auction. It has not been run for a few years. I have replaced both the battery and the plug but it will not start. I can hear whirring when I try and start it but it will not catch and go. Any ideas would be helpful.
prpl
Posted on Sep 2, 2003, 6:09 PM from IP address 63.147.130.84
The clutch lever is broken, I thought I found a website selling just the clutch lever but cannot seem to locate it, again to order. I can only find a sight with the clutch lever and brake assembly for $35. I don't need the entire thing. Can someone steer me to the right website?
Posted on Sep 2, 2003, 1:53 PM from IP address 63.211.243.104
I am looking for a cheap replacment headlight for a 1977 Yamaha Chappy. The dealer sales them but they are $58. I bought one but I had a short and it burnt out in 30 seconds. Found the short and don't want to pay another $58. It is a 6 volt sealed beam headlight.
Thanks,
Kevin
Posted on Sep 2, 2003, 10:09 AM from IP address 12.110.27.2
The Kinetic TFR that I purchased a month ago still won't start. It's a 2001 model with only 22 miles on it. I've done everything I can think of to try to get it to start, even replaced the CDI on recommendation of a ped shop. Still no-go. i'm going to purchase a compression gauge at lunch today, but I don't think that's the problem as it feels like it has plenty of compression. I took the head off this weekend and there's no carbon there as expected with an engine with only 22 miles on it. Head gasket was ok too. Here's a couple questions for the group.
Does the TFR have a reed valve?
I'm thinking of replacing the internal carb parts like the needle, float and o-ring.
Am I on the right track here? Anything else I should be looking at?
Posted on Sep 2, 2003, 5:10 AM from IP address 12.34.164.85
Hi, I just purchased a 1982 urban express Deluxe.
It has electric start, 2 stroke 50cc, 2 speed trans
ect. ect. And automatic choke. I went thru the standard cleaning of the carb, checked spark and compression. all good. Starts up fairly well if {cold}
I can adjust the Idle well enough but it will not rev up enough to go under its own power, lacks rpms.
After I read some info off this web sight I went directly to the muffler, took it off and it still wont run out like it should. I have not a manual yet but I will get one. Meanwhile anyone have a clue? Any responce would be greatly apreciated. Thanks in advance for your responce. Keith
Posted on Sep 1, 2003, 4:24 PM from IP address 63.230.7.11
disconnect the hoses from the carb and plug/cap the carb inlets.. Don't worry about the hoses
then see if the urban will run any better..
the clean up process for the auto choke involves lots of carb cleaner in the hoses..
and works best if the choke is removed but Not taken apart and left to soak overnight.. also doNot use compressed air on the choke you will only damage it
there is a reason for not taking it apart..
the seal behind the cover is not available..
and once it is exposed to outside air it immediately starts swelling and strecthing and canot be made to fit back correctly..
Posted on Sep 1, 2003, 10:31 PM from IP address 151.144.164.56
Sounds like the carb might have a clogged main jet. Remove the bowl and the main jet is screwed into the bottom of the main carb body (It's brass). Put it up to a light and look at it to see if light comes through. Blow it out and don't use any metal wire to clean it. Then add one of those lawn mower mini filters in the fuel line.
RobD
Posted on Sep 1, 2003, 7:13 PM from IP address 12.152.146.222
besure you are setting the meter on the AC scale, because it's AC voltage going to the CDI
4 volts or more would have sounded normal to me..
it's what i usually get on a honda mag
use the kick start ( i think the 86 has it )when making the reading..
the kick start will crank the engine faster than the electric and give you a more accurate reading of the condition of the mag..
Posted on Sep 1, 2003, 2:46 PM from IP address 151.144.165.8
I think either it's the cdi or you have 'load'( possible short ) on the wiring someplace that is causing the problem
try this test..
unhook the battery ( or remove the diode and fuse )
remove your light bulbs
unplug the headlight ..
now try to start the scoot, IF it runs it means the problem is short in the wiring or batttery..if it doesn't run check the voltage at the blue/yel from the motor and again where it hooks to the coil..
for the first test at the motor you can unplug the wire..
for the second test you can test with the cdi plugged in
remember do not kick the motor with cdi hooked up and the coil unplugged from the cdi..
to test the cdi you must unplug it and use a meter on OHMS,, on the bench .. NO power ..you have to read between the different connections..
there is post on here someplace detailing that..
the cdi is more likely to fail than the magneto winding..
Posted on Sep 1, 2003, 10:44 PM from IP address 151.144.164.56