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Updated "trigger tune how to" what do you think...

April 16 2005 at 11:35 PM

Biohazardman  (Login Biohazardman)
from IP address

Trigger pull on stock gun a bit heavy.

1- . See that the gun is unloaded and free of gas. Remove the front co2 tube filler cap for safety. Cock the gun and remove the breech screw under the bolt. Remove the rear sight screw and lift the breech slightly pull it back and free of the barrel. Slide the barrel and barrel band off the front of the tube. Together or seperately as you choose. Uncock the gun. Remove the rear grip frame screw that's under the tube. I removed both of the grip frame screws and the frame as it's far less likely that the safety spring and bearing will be lost with the little bit of extra work done. Remove the rear tube plug and spring. Pull the hammer back with the pin. Pull the pin out and remove the hammer. Put the gun safety in the fire position if you have not taken the grip frame off. Remove the right grip and plate or, cover as Crosman calls it, that holds the trigger assembly. Pay special attention not to loose the tiny spring and bearing used in the safety. If the safety is disturbed to much they will fly out into a far off and distant land. Remove the trigger spring , trigger and sear.

2- Polish the sear and it's engaging surfaces on the trigger and hammer face. I used #600 grit wet dry sandpaper but many other ways to polish it up. Don't take much metal off or reshape just polish it up good. Taking metal off could result in the gun firing when bumped or dropped. Check it when done to be sure.

3- Replace the trigger spring with a lighter one. For a silky smooth pull make yourself a guide from delrin rod or similar as it is easily shaped with a file when spun in a drill or lathe . Total length is just shy of the original spring. A good spring to use is a hammer spring cut to size.

4-To make a trigger stop make the plastic guide long enough to allow the hammer to pass the sear on fireing and hit the frame spring stub just after that point. The sear should not drag on the hammer as it passes by. Last couple spring guides I made had a hole drilled in the bottom of the guide so it could be slid over the stub. Once again the trigger stopped imediately after fireing as the length of the guide was adjusted to make it happen this way. Another way to do this I have seen is to drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the trigger guard so that the trigger hits on a set screw when pulled. That would give you an adjustable stop.

5- Put the trigger assembly back together lube all engaging surfaces with grease. Do not overtighten the two screws that hold the trigger cover plate cuz the gun may bind and not cock. Just snug. Then re-assemble the gun in the reverse order of dissasembly. A couple of drops of light machine oil on the hammer will make things slide a bit better inside the tube..

I measured the pull after this simple safe mod and it was at two pounds plus or minus a couple ounces.
To get the pull to even less carefully check the sear engagement and see that total spring and guide is just enough to completely engage the sear and not much more. Polish the hammer face even more paying special attention to the sear and hammer angles soften them JUST SLIGHTLY. Mine is just over a pound now and will not discharge when treated roughly.

Many ways to do these trigger mods and one of the best I have seen comes from Carlie Da Tuna's shop. One of the best trigger mods available for these guns has to be From Steve. The link changes often but the sear is the same. They are in the Crosman parts link. If you think your trigger is nice at a pound or two you need one of these to really be addicted

I used to have a life. But now I have the forum. I am a sick man?

This message has been edited by Biohazardman from IP address on Jan 20, 2008 4:26 PM

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