So for about the last 24 months, I've had her on a serious diet. Now I am happy to
report that she lost nearly 13 ounces and is feeling so much better. And let me
say one thing, when I pick her up with one hand now she is light as a feather.
Well, almost a feather.
Things I have done so far:
OEM main tube was lightened by me.
Barrel is OEM and trimmed down by me.
Main tube plug is made of Delrin by me.
Gas cap is aluminum, comes from HPA and bored out by me.
Hammer is made from Delrin by me with a modified 1701P striker.
Valve is an aluminum Disco rear end with a brass Pro-Top by Anthony.
Trigger grip frame is aluminum by Bluefork Design and then hogged out by Gregg.
Front barrel band is aluminum, made by Anthony, drilled by Rich and milled by me.
michael (Login slothart) Crosman Forum Member from IP address 184.108.40.206
I am re-sealing my father's old Benjamin 310 and I have run into a snag...
I can not get the Outlet Valve Lock Screw (part #340)to budge.
I purchased the tool and the seal kit from Brian & Associates which comes with a copy of the owners manual as well as separate typed instructions for re-sealing the gun. The tool fits cleanly into place, but I cannot get it to move. I'm worried if I put too much force behind it, I will break the solder holding the barrel in place.
I've tried, soaking the area in WD40 and carefully vising the tube to get more leverage, but no luck so far.
Anyone have any recommendations on getting the lock screw to release?
My next thought was to heat that section carefully to see if that would allow the screw to move. It is seated in a lead seal correct?
This forum is not affiliated with the Crosman Corporation in any way// Information presented in this forum is intended for informational purposes only; use at your own risk//Posts made to this forum are solely the opinion of the individual member