So for about the last 24 months, I've had her on a serious diet. Now I am happy to
report that she lost nearly 13 ounces and is feeling so much better. And let me
say one thing, when I pick her up with one hand now she is light as a feather.
Well, almost a feather.
Things I have done so far:
OEM main tube was lightened by me.
Barrel is OEM and trimmed down by me.
Main tube plug is made of Delrin by me.
Gas cap is aluminum, comes from HPA and bored out by me.
Hammer is made from Delrin by me with a modified 1701P striker.
Valve is an aluminum Disco rear end with a brass Pro-Top by Anthony.
Trigger grip frame is aluminum by Bluefork Design and then hogged out by Gregg.
Front barrel band is aluminum, made by Anthony, drilled by Rich and milled by me.
...the valve would hold pressure - without at least releasing it slowly - if you're really pushing the exhaust valve open as you say. Even if the transfer port was somehow plugged solid, air would still leak out around the stem when the valve is held open.
In any case, if the valve is really pressurized like you think it is, it will be very hard to push the check (inlet) valve open against the force of accumulated pressure. The checkvalve is large and can only be accessed through the inlet hole. Even if you can push hard enough with a needle punch or similar tool, the concentrated force will probably damage the valve.
Another approach would be to remove the valve body and s-l-o-w-l-y unscrew the two halves. After just a turn or two, any contained pressure should begin to escape with a hiss. At least this is what happens with 392 valves.
This message has been edited by pneuguy from IP address 220.127.116.11 on Dec 12, 2011 3:14 PM
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