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 photo 63f5b325-0274-4312-9dbd-2effde5b3715_zps0x27orls.jpg

Alan Alford's build

2250b Tube for later move to bulk CO2.
12" .22 Caliber Barrel from Doomsday Backpacker
Brian & Assoc. Alluminum Breech with 2 barrel screws
Original site rear
Pin site on Custom Mt. Airguns Muzzle Break
2x1 Centerpoint Scope with UTG dovetail adapters
Mountain Airguns Custom Bolt and Handle
Mountain Airguns Custom Power Adapter and spring guide
B&A Boss Valve for extra Power

Built mainly for fun and to shoot at local Field Trial Pistol Match.

It currently it shoots a 14.3 Crosman Hunting Pellet at about 530 fps in a 72 degree room for 8.92 FPE.



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Weird. It's really hard to believe there's any way...

December 12 2011 at 2:58 PM

Steve in NC  (Login pneuguy)
Troll, Banned User or Assorted Delinquent
from IP address 74.242.252.49


Response to I replaced the valve/seals

...the valve would hold pressure - without at least releasing it slowly - if you're really pushing the exhaust valve open as you say. Even if the transfer port was somehow plugged solid, air would still leak out around the stem when the valve is held open.

In any case, if the valve is really pressurized like you think it is, it will be very hard to push the check (inlet) valve open against the force of accumulated pressure. The checkvalve is large and can only be accessed through the inlet hole. Even if you can push hard enough with a needle punch or similar tool, the concentrated force will probably damage the valve.

Another approach would be to remove the valve body and s-l-o-w-l-y unscrew the two halves. After just a turn or two, any contained pressure should begin to escape with a hiss. At least this is what happens with 392 valves.

Steve


    
This message has been edited by pneuguy from IP address 74.242.252.49 on Dec 12, 2011 3:14 PM


 
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