Dag Evert's "American Classic"
As mentioned on the forum, heres a picture I took some time back, with natural winter daylight.
A 2100, and a 1377, both guns have been recrowned, and had their trigger parts shimmed for play,
contact surfaces stoned, and trigger springs somewhat reduced within safe limits.
The 2100 has had its barrel shimmed with tape to remove play.
Both guns give great accuracy for the money if they are given good pellets!
The combination of pellets and guns in the picture represents something close to my boyhood dreams:-)
-- Dag Evert
Slippery subject...June 12 2012 at 10:19 AM
|Airfierce (Login Airfierce)|
Crosman Forum Member
from IP address 220.127.116.11
Response to Bacon Grease
My post below wasn't intended to cause trouble but to prevent it. Sure not trying to get folks excited!
A lot of people only read forums occasionally instead of posting questions and may not have much if any experience on the subjects. That sometimes results in blindly following advice that quickly or slowly causes serious grief. With airguns being as difficult as they are to take apart and reassemble correctly, especially for beginners, we don't want folks screwing up the works based on bad advice they got here.
The only correct answer to the question of lube or pre-assembly lube is to use what's best for a particular gun. That depends on what the seals and gun parts are made of, so it's a matter of finding that out, if posssible. Petroleum based seals should not use petroleum based lube. Silicone based seals should not use silicone lube. Petroleum based lube can attack certain plastics, but not all plastics: so a person needs to know exactly which plastics [if any] are used. Each person needs to educate themselves on their own particular airgun's components and materials.
Bottom line is, just because one person gets away with using a particular lube in their airguns, maybe even for years and years, that doesn't mean that it applies to every airgun in every situation.
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