2260 with short crosman receiver atop a mini riser made from aluminum tube. Barrel is a 2200 soda straw
tensioned inside a titanium golf club shaft. Three screw mod to the trigger, bulk co2, SSP 250 rear cocking
striker assembly. Factory stock, reshaped, bedliner finish and stick on cheek piece. The idea was a weather
resistant light hunter for rainy days.
I've got a Cothran stainless receiver and gas tube waiting for me to get back to this one.
Airfierce (Login Airfierce) Crosman Forum Member from IP address 18.104.22.168
Wondering if y'all know some temperature numbers for the heat treating of barrels, air chambers & miscellaneous parts on Crosman's?
Not sure where it applies, but thinking in terms of re-bluing parts, baked finishes, welding, brazing & soldering jobs at temperatures that might undo factory heat treatment if it exists. One method of blueing is to heat yellow or orange or near cherry red and quench in various types or weights of oil depending on desired finish. Even cold blue is better when parts are heated, but...?
I'm not sure which parts might have been heat treated in the first place except those that are obviously hardened like hammer sleeve etc. Any guidelines in general? No harm no foul? I'm aware of normalizing an entire piece after a process to realign grain throughout, so that parts don't warp, but wondering about those temps also. Suggestions?
Mine are vintage guns from the late 40's to mid 60's.
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