Carl Quick's LiteWieght 2240
So for about the last 24 months, I've had her on a serious diet. Now I am happy to
report that she lost nearly 13 ounces and is feeling so much better. And let me
say one thing, when I pick her up with one hand now she is light as a feather.
Well, almost a feather.
Things I have done so far:
OEM main tube was lightened by me.
Barrel is OEM and trimmed down by me.
Main tube plug is made of Delrin by me.
Gas cap is aluminum, comes from HPA and bored out by me.
Hammer is made from Delrin by me with a modified 1701P striker.
Valve is an aluminum Disco rear end with a brass Pro-Top by Anthony.
Trigger grip frame is aluminum by Bluefork Design and then hogged out by Gregg.
Front barrel band is aluminum, made by Anthony, drilled by Rich and milled by me.
Metallurgy question...June 25 2012 at 9:20 AM
|Airfierce (Login Airfierce)|
Crosman Forum Member
from IP address 188.8.131.52
Wondering if y'all know some temperature numbers for the heat treating of barrels, air chambers & miscellaneous parts on Crosman's?
Not sure where it applies, but thinking in terms of re-bluing parts, baked finishes, welding, brazing & soldering jobs at temperatures that might undo factory heat treatment if it exists. One method of blueing is to heat yellow or orange or near cherry red and quench in various types or weights of oil depending on desired finish. Even cold blue is better when parts are heated, but...?
I'm not sure which parts might have been heat treated in the first place except those that are obviously hardened like hammer sleeve etc. Any guidelines in general? No harm no foul? I'm aware of normalizing an entire piece after a process to realign grain throughout, so that parts don't warp, but wondering about those temps also. Suggestions?
Mine are vintage guns from the late 40's to mid 60's.
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