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Dag Evert's "American Classic"

As mentioned on the forum, heres a picture I took some time back, with natural winter daylight. A 2100, and a 1377, both guns have been recrowned, and had their trigger parts shimmed for play, contact surfaces stoned, and trigger springs somewhat reduced within safe limits. The 2100 has had its barrel shimmed with tape to remove play.
Both guns give great accuracy for the money if they are given good pellets!
The combination of pellets and guns in the picture represents something close to my boyhood dreams:-)


-- Dag Evert

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Metallurgy question...

June 25 2012 at 9:20 AM
Airfierce  (Login Airfierce)
Crosman Forum Member
from IP address 66.81.29.218

Hi guys,

Wondering if y'all know some temperature numbers for the heat treating of barrels, air chambers & miscellaneous parts on Crosman's?

Not sure where it applies, but thinking in terms of re-bluing parts, baked finishes, welding, brazing & soldering jobs at temperatures that might undo factory heat treatment if it exists. One method of blueing is to heat yellow or orange or near cherry red and quench in various types or weights of oil depending on desired finish. Even cold blue is better when parts are heated, but...?

I'm not sure which parts might have been heat treated in the first place except those that are obviously hardened like hammer sleeve etc. Any guidelines in general? No harm no foul? I'm aware of normalizing an entire piece after a process to realign grain throughout, so that parts don't warp, but wondering about those temps also. Suggestions?

Mine are vintage guns from the late 40's to mid 60's.

Thanks!

 
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