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Tom West's Custom PC77 PumpMaster Classic Short Rifle



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attaching gauge

August 28 2012 at 11:11 AM
Casey  (Login chaldeman1984)
Crosman Forum Member
from IP address 64.90.159.193

Well I've been practicing soldering on my broken 392 brass body tube so hopefully when my gauge comes, it'll go smoothly. I've found that removing the thicker parts of the fittings and leaving just the threaded tube the gauge will screw into makes soldering much better. I assume this is because the threaded tube is considerably thinner metal than the rest of the fitting, and heats up quicker with the torch. I cut the bottom off of a nut for a 1/4" compression fitting and soldered the remaining threaded piece onto the body tube with flux, plumbers' copper-sweating type solder, and high heat from a cheapo LP torch. This I cannot break off with my bare hands at all, only a heavy strike of a hammer would break it off. I noticed when soldering thicker couplers or reducers on, if not heavily pre-heated, they would easily break off with a jerk of the hand. I also noticed that tinning the body tube or nut before-hand was actually detrimental to adhesion??? I would have thought vise-versa....but roughing up both surfaces, applying plenty of flux, clamping with a "c" clamp, and heavily pre-heating before trying to apply solder resulted in the strongest bond I could get out of regular solder. I know that it's a lot of air pressure, but do you guys think that sounds like a bond that will hold? I really don't want to have to go to my dad's work and try brazing or silver-soldering it, as my dad's right arm is in a sling, and I'm inexperienced with those techniques.

 
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