Likely more than you need...April 30 2017 at 9:05 AM
|gubb33ps (Login gubb33ps)|
Crosman Forum Member
from IP address 126.96.36.199
Response to Is this crazy or will it work??
They do make industrial/commercail leak detection stuff...and basically NONE of us has that laying around.
If you got little kids, may have some bubble making stuff (those little plastic bottles with the plastic ring to blow though from the Dollar store?).
If not, we pretty much all have water and some form of soap.
YEah...water freaks airgunners out. Not sure why, it's not as if a pressurized system is going to suck stuff in, and we manage the "art of drying" every time we take a shower.
I count 8 places you'd need to cheack for "static" leaking (leaking while it's just sitting there)but only 7 of them are easy to get to.
Basically everwhere there is a sealed opening or sealed joint to the outside world.
1. Leak from the muzzle (if the bolt is closed) is the valve stem seal not sealing.
2. Leak from the open end of the fill nipple is the little o-ring inside the fill nipple not sealing.
3. Can leak from the threads of the nipple into the end cap.
4. Can leak at the joint of the end cap and the air tube.
(the next 3 are right next to eachother, so will need to really look closely to tell which is leaking)
5. Can leak from the back of the gauge itself (there is a little hole on the back face of the gauge...if it bubbles out of that, you need a new gauge).
6. Can leak from the threaded shank of the gauge were is screws into the gauge block inside the tube.
7. Can leak from the opening in the tube that the gauge's shank passes through to get to the gauge block. That gauge block has an o-ring on each side of that hole that often go bad.
8 (The harder one). Could leak out the back end (striker end) if the o-rings that seal the valve to the tube or the o-ring that seal the two halves of the valve go bad. To check that, are going to have to take the rifle apart becasue we need to check around the rear of the valve/air tube.
USUALLY, will find that if the o-rings on the valve body leak, will find a little bubbling at the two valve retetion screws in the side of the air tube, the front trigger housing screw...but those may not show a slow leak (air taking the easiest passage out, which is along the sides of the valve to the back).
So, out the stock...barrel band off...reciever and barrel off...pluck out the transfer port parts so you don't lose them...rear end cap, striker and striker spring out...now you can look down into the rear of the tube and see the back of valve. It's still retained by all the fixation screws, so you can gas it up for a leak check aound the rear end of the valve.
Stopping at the first leak you find?
What we (myself included) often do is detect a leak, fix it, and then get POed that the thing still leaks.
Well..there is no rule saying that there has to be just one leak, but we (myself included) stop checking once we find the first one (especially it is one of the simple ones to fix).
We might even have been right and there was only one leak...but we created a new leak while fixing the first one.
|This message has been edited by gubb33ps from IP address 188.8.131.52 on Apr 30, 2017 9:08 AM|