I'll start out with some thoughts from the end of the test with a quick video... I think the vid is rotated 90 degrees, but you'll get the drift...
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If the embed doesn't work, see this link:https://youtu.be/bvi4TTAntfE
New 2240 in the clamshell. (I was going to use a 1377 but I only had one new gun remaining and that is going out to a customer with some other doodads, and didn't want to cut it open.)
Plain old 2240 right out of the package... oily!
Tested the trigger using my set-up. I have a long lever that allows a precise, controlled pull on the trigger weight gauge (RCBS - OHAUS). The gun is clamped in a padded vise, the gauge is attached to an eyelet. The height of the eyelet is such that the trigger pull is near parallel with the bore of the barrel. I tried to place the gauge hook at the deepest part of the trigger pad. I could have measured the distance from a constant to preclude the leverage from changing based on where the hook lay, but I didn't think of it until I was finished.
All tests were run with the factory sear spring, pins and the trigger blade spring washer.
Neither the 1911 trigger nor the Super Sear were altered in any way. 1911 right out of the bin, SS right out of the envelope.
First test was the gun straight out of the package. I dry-fired it 10-15 times before starting to measure weight. Thought that would somewhat smooth out the parts just a bit.
Factory trigger, sear, spring:
1. 5 lbs, 12 oz.
2. 5 lbs, 2 oz.
3. 5 lbs, 8 oz.
4. 5 lbs, 8 oz
5. 5 lbs, 2
TKO 1911 Trigger, factory sear and spring:
1. 3 lbs, 12 oz.
2. 4 lbs, 8 oz.
3. 3 lbs, 15 oz.
4. 4 lbs, 2 oz.
5. 4 lbs, 0 oz.
Super Sear with stock trigger:
(Was difficult to detect the first stage as there were usually two distinct "catches" before it was a positive first stage. 1st # = 1st catch, 2nd # = positive first stage, 3rd # = Letoff ) in ounces ... was tired of the math...
1. 33 - 44 - 68 (4 lbs, 4 oz.) Edited to add: The 2nd stage weight is the difference between the first stage and the 2nd stage values. In this case: 1 lb, 8 oz.
2. 37 - 48 - 72
3. 37 - 48 - 72
4. 30 - 46 - 70
5. 40 - 48 - 72
TKO 1911 Trigger with Super Sear:
1. 32 - 40 - 56
2. 30 - 35 - 57
3. 28 - 32 - 52
4. 24 - 27 - 50 (vid of this one)
5. 27 - 30 - 56
Added bonus: TKO 1911 trigger with factory sear that has been polished, sear and striker nose polished, lighter sear spring installed in a 1322 TKO Custom Carbine:
1. 15 oz.
2. 17 oz.
3. 15 oz.
I'll try to attach a couple of more videos of the process... they will either be Youtube links or Youtube vids embedded into the page.
It looks like if using the two parts in the 3-screw frame, no alterations of either parts is necessary. If using them together in the 2-screw frames, then I suggest bending the Super Sear tab upward until it will operate as designed. Altering the TKO trigger by grinding the "nose" might create a part that won't work in another application with a different sear, etc.
I will say that even though the Super Sear measured heavier than I thought it would with the factory trigger, the positive stop, then increasing pressure makes for a very predictable let-off. A bit of "shine-it-up" of the sear and the striker nose would eliminate the double-catch of the first stage. That catch may also have been caused by the sear spring which was cocked a bit on the Super Sear spring perch. See earlier photo...
I'm out a here ... Graduation parties, family reunion, beer, golf and maybe a bit of shooting the rest of the week.
Some extra photos:
You can see the sear spring is cocked on the SS... might have been some of the double-catch I was feeling. Safety ball bearing ... good bye!
I have a few close-up vids of the actual testing ... might post a few up on youtube next week ... or so.
Edited to add: Network 54 SUCKS!