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(Login jandj_davis) Crosman Forum Member from IP address 18.104.22.168
OK, I've about had it with this Crosman breech screw location stuff. I found the pic that defines old vs new screw location. My 1377 (bought new in JAN of this year) has the old screw location. I hate it. I have to be so careful loading pellets that it takes some of the fun out of plinking with it. And, like most owners it seems, I would like to put a more substantial breech on the gun eventually.
To let you know a little more about me, I am the kind of person that researches EVERY POSSIBLE OPTION before I make a decision. I now know that the Cothran breech is excellent, the CB breech may have some tolernace issues because of the two-sided nature, the Stace, DAQ, and RJMachine breeches are no longer being sold, and there is a brass breech available from the UK. There is TreeRatHunter.com has a SS breech, and there is a guy selling Aluminum ones in the Yellow classifieds. So, I feel I've done my due diligence.
Here's my question. Is there any chance my 1377 with the old screw location will easily accept a breech with the new screw location? Is there any chance that it could have both holes in the tube? Or am I going to have to do some tooling and parts replacement to get the new screw location on my gun?
I realize this may be a question you forum regulars are quite tired of hearing, but I cannot find a cumunlative definition anywhere. Thanks again for the help.
Easy fix is to light a candle and put a drop of wax on that screw. Now work the bolt. Problem solved.
Alan at AB airgun may have some Crosman breeches with the screw hole in the old location. That is where I got mine last year. An adventuresome person might consider drilling a hole in the old location through the new breech. Dave
I've seen the recommendation for candle wax several times now. I will definitely go that route until I get a breech. Cothran offers his breech with the old screw location, and with the bolt handle on the left, so I'll probably go that route if the wax solves the loading problems. Now I just need to see if I can get him to mill a slot for the LPA MIM rear sight.
(Login fivestar45) Crosman Forum Member 22.214.171.124
I just finished
April 29 2011, 6:20 PM
an older 2240 with the front screw location only. The fix isn't a very big deal. As mentioned above you will have to grind a notch in the top of the striker nose, and find top center of the tube and drill and tap 4/48 in the rear location. The entire thing can be done with a drill press, a Dremel tool, and 4/48 tap w/ handle.
(Login airgunandy) Crosman Forum Member 126.96.36.199
What's the big deal?
April 30 2011, 11:34 AM
I still haven't seen how so many people have such a hard time loading Crosman pistols. I must be doing something wrong!
I'm right handed. To load I hold the pistol in my left hand just in front of the grip (kinda like you were loading/unloading a single action revolver or a Thompson Center pistol). Make sure the safety is on. I then open the bolt with my right hand. With the muzzle pointed up at about 45 degrees I drop a pellet into the receiver between the screw and bolt. Close the bolt and the pellet is chambered just fine. It takes longer to spell it out than to do it. No big deal, and I have fat fingers and wear bifocals too.
(Login pneuguy) Crosman Forum Member 188.8.131.52
As you've discovered, the wax trick works. And there's this in favor of the old...
April 30 2011, 1:35 PM
1. It's stronger. Moving the screw to the "new" aft location puts it too close to the only other point of breech fixturing - the end plug screw. This reduces the already poor mechanical advantage of what's a relatively weak fastener (#4-48 tapped into the thin wall of the tube) in the first place.
2. It's compatible with the old style bolt with the pressed - rather than threaded - handle.
3. Being able to remove the breech from the tube without removing the bolt from the breech is convenient and considerably simplifies operations like installing HDDs.