for service . They always goof off right before they go
POOF ! Don't bother with those dudes on the lansing 4m they don't really give a shit about anything but their own dreamy little world ,I've written them off as of 2 days ago and I have only been on about 2 weeks !

My buddy called me a few days ago and told me he had bought some monster cables for interconnects and also speaker wire , when I asked if he could tell a difference he said "OH HELL YEAH" . He said that it was now as loud on 3 as it ever was b4 and it used to deadhead and start clipping at 7 ! I said "get out !" . but the man don't lie !

He calls me back about 1/2 hour later and says that he ain't gettin no sound outta the right channel and the left...just barely !

That's how they do ! they sound best ,and sometimes loudest just before they check out !

What's funny is I was ready to put my shoes on and run out to buy monster cable ! I was like DAMN SON !

Joe, I pulled the plug as soon as it happened. The service manual just arrived. At some point over the next couple of months I hope to find the time to pull the PL400 apart and see if I can find the problem. It's beyond my abilities, but I'll give it a shot. If I strike out, I'll send it out to be fixed. I enjoy a challenge, but I don't have much time. What free time I have has gone into rebuilding my mono-blocks. While I have the PL400 apart I'll fuse the speaker lines with 2 amp fuses.

This thing picked a bad time to crap out. With the mono-blocks in pieces and one PL400 down, I don't have a system to listen to. I'm spoiled! Having just one PL400 to run the L100s (not subs) doesn't have that full sound. I've resigned myself to no stereo till the mono-blocks are running.

I bought very expensive interconnect cables from a snobby highend local hifi store. The cable have arrows to indicate the signal direction. Something to do with the alignment of the molecules or some such thing. I hate to admit it, but I can't hear any difference between these cables and my old junk ones.

that's why I was shocked when I heard that monsters were effectively doubling the output of my buddys amp ! Then the other shoe dropped when the amp signed off 1/2 hour later.

oxy free copper is as good as you can do .It's just really good copper is all . Run as much as you can stick into the terminals and call it good. I never heard a difference between rat shack speaker cable and ofc ! but the ofc only costs a little more and we're worth it !

G-Snake - These are the cables I bought. Big bucks and not worth the money, at lease not to my sorry ears!

Here's a product review. I think these things are for the people who like to talk theory. When I bought my Paradigm X-30 crossover I let the guy talk me into getting these cables. It was a big waste of money! Next time I need a set I'm going to Radio Shack.

http://www.abtelectronics.com/product/22188.html

from drew daniels formerly of JBL .

Speaker cabling: Prepare speaker cabling for the high frequency horns only from multiple twisted pair Spectrastrip high-speed computer data ribbon cable. You can parallel as many conductors as you like to obtain the equivalent of a 14, 12 or 10 AWG. This method produces the finest performance available from wire-of any kind, at any price! You may also use pairs of single 10-gauge stranded wires which you can twist using an electric drill motor. Twisting conductors around each other places the current paths (and resulting surrounding magnetic fields) closer to right angles to each other which in turn reduces inductance-the main property of speaker cabling that can cause a loss in high frequencies in the amp-cable-speaker system. You can use any 10 or 12-gauge wire pairs for the mid and lower frequency drivers or even as small as 16-gauge if cables are short.

Terminate the three pairs of wires into a screw-terminal barrier strip mounted on top or on the back of the woofer chamber. From there, continue with the same wire to the amp. Place the amp nearby (it happens to be the same width as the speaker cabinet) and keep speaker cables short to minimize resistance and capacitance. This is the best you can do to insure that wire is not playing a degrading role in your audio system.

It is essential that good connections with low contact resistance be made at each connection. Use of crimped lugs is recommended if the certified crimp tool is used to install the lugs. High-cost gold-plated hardware which offer good mechanical connections are acceptable if they can be made to provide a low-resistance connection to the wire itself, and may offer additional benefits in avoiding contact "poisoning" due to the molecular migration of dissimilar metals across the connection. Periodic checks of connections will, in any case, avoid chemical connection problems.

This project is expensive enough already. Don't listen to any hair-brained morons who may try to tell you "special" speaker wire will make any difference. It's not true - it's only mysticism. If there were any actual advantages, such wire would have found its way into the engineering mainstream for large military projects, and satellites where billions in research would surely have revealed the benefits and resulted in at least some documentation. PERCEIVED benefits are exactly that-perceived as a direct result of psychological inclination to rationalize and justify the absurd expenditure of money for what amounts to nothing more than prestige.

Worked with him at GT. About the nicest guy you'd want to meet.

"Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered… What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as FREEDOM should not be highly rated."
-Thomas Paine

Is he not ? You've worked with several cool dudes in your day you dog ! Some people work with nothing but assholes their entire life , count yourself as fortunate.