Hi All,

As I see it I have four options for aftermarket tracks, ModelKasten, Fruillmodellismo, RPM and Aber. Now I've had a look at the Aber ones and that way madness lies. That leaves me the choice between the other three. The RPM are the cheapest followed by the Modelkasten ones and then the Fruill ones. So the question is what would you recommend, are the the RPM quite satisfactory or should I splash out for the Modelkasten or Fruill ones?

TIA
Andy

the friull but that's just a personal advice. The RPM ain't pretty nice, the modelkasten are great but the sagging effect would look more realistic with metal tracks.
Well, i look forward your built.
Take care
Emilien

The Model Kasten links actually snap together--no pins. Very petite in detail. You may have to hunt for them, though, as they don't seem to have been widely exported. The RPM styrene tracks are very chunky by comparison, and the fine metal edges are too thick.

Hi Andy: Just don't try to use the ones that come in the kit.
I used Fruill on RPM's Char Mitrailleur FT 17. Not too hard, but expensive [$42 U.S.] They are real metal.
On RPM's tsf I used RPM's plastic individual link track. Also not too hard and painted up nice. I liked them better in building, painting and the final look. You can check out the finish pictures on Photo-Bucket.
http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii151/chriswanderson/Tanks/
Good Luck,
Chris Anderson

The RPM tracks were "okay" and not too hard to build once you figured out how the parts go and make up your own assembly sequence. Each link is, IIRC, 5 parts. The edges/sides don't look as nice as the friul tracks

The Friul links are well molded and have minimal clean up. You get some pre cut little metal tubes that cover the wires that pin the links together. They look better than the RPM tracks, although I was making 5-6 FT kits and the RPM tracks were something like $8 and the Friuls were $40 a set. But they were much better overall.

One important thing... don't glue the kit wheels all together and then expect too fit the tracks... the track links are big... so adding or leaving one out isn't a good option to get a good fit. You must leave the idler wheel (the front one) movable to adjust the tension. Note the kit idler and sprocket mounting details are shown wrong on the instructions too.