Looking for 7/8" tapered shaft, 83" long with keyways each end. For my 15' Lloyd project. Please respond here or to mcknightmare@yahoo.com.

I suggest you have a new shaft made. No sense in loosing a prop with a used shaft. This is the supplier for the Detroit area:
Marine Machining & Manufacturing / Marine Alloys
33475 Giftos Drive
Clinton Township, MI 48035


(586) 791-8800
FAX: (586) 791-8803

www.marinemachining@sbcglobal.net

Just a note, be sure of the key size on the prop. If not noted they will make it 1/4", some props for the 7/8 shafts have a 3/16 key.

some helpful advice. years of building competitive race boats I learned threw mike naber, one of the best engineers I've seen in the sport he made his shafts out of 714 stainless. from what I seen 714 holds up the best over aquamet that some people suggest.

I mean 174 stainless not 714 oops

The correct description is 17-4 PH.
This alloy is 17% chrome and 4% nickle.
The PH is for Precipitation Hardened.
This material should be available in 1" 1 1/8" diameters.
rob

Just remember you can base you shaft size/material selection on a simple calculation which takes into account engine RPM, HP, etc. 17-4 PH (also known as 630) is an excellent choice but don't forget about Monel K-500. Aquamet 22 is right in the same ballpark and is pretty much a trade name for a specific grade of stainless. Remember....17-4 PH stainless and Monel K-500 can be age hardened to what you need so be careful you order the right stuff. Simply stating you want a 17-4 PH stainless shaft is not enough information for a shaft house to place an order....

Alan

hay Al I have several old shafts up here that are made from aquamet 22 that are eather bent, or the splines are twisted at the prop. 22 is a good material but the [ 17-4 ] just seems to hold up better. Don't have any [ 17-4 ] shafts that show this problem. When Dan Groby was doing shafts that was about all he would sell you was [ 17-4 ]. Dan Groby tried 22 without the luck of [ 17-4 ]. For a while I you did not like [ 17-4 ] you were not going to get a shaft from him.

From my world you can't make general statements on material and their properties because lives, federal regulations and harsh lawsuits prohibit this. You can have a 17-4 PH shaft but you need to know the grade/condition of manufacture. Aquamet 22 is grade specific (this means Aquamet 22 is a specific grade/condition of manufacture unlike 17-4 PH or K-500 Monel which is generic to the base material). This means you can easily have an Aquamet 22 shaft which is stronger than some grades of 17-4 PH and vice versa. Aquamet 22 for example is much stronger than 17-4 PH H1150M (130Ksi vs. 87Ksi @ 0.2% yield) but you can't tell just by looking at it. However, if you have 17-4 PH H900 it is much stronger than Aquamet 22 (183Ksi vs. 130Ksi @ 0.2% yield). Makes sense? The bottom line is anyone that shows you a twisted shaft selected the wrong material for the application and didn't do their homework. One has to document his calculations with the correct safety factor based on the application and then select the appropriate material. I hope this little extra B.S. helps anyone who is trying to select the correct shaft material for their racing hull.....

I have used the aquamet 22 shafts for years with no problems. We drove over top of another boat with one and didn't bend it. I even seen a guy use one to rescue a cat stuck up in a tree. Hell, I even pryed the lid off my septic tank with one, stuck it back in the boat and won the nationals with it.

Jay

never said 22 was a bad material I just know from the people that have ran more than one shaft threw a race boat that the people that have used 17-4 shafts like them better. I use 22 in my runabouts where a tapper is used instead o a spine holds up well. My knowledge comes from exsperiance and talking to people who have experimented and allready figured out what works good and what works better. Just thought I would offer some advice. If nothing else I learned the offical material numbers,but I could have looked them up in one of my old engineering books from college. Meanwhile I am waiting for [17-4 ] shaft to be made for the new 7 liter hydro I am building. Thanks

From stories of the past.

Don Kemper related to me that back in the '50/'60's Phil Rothenbush used cold rolled and just pulled it after every race, cleaned and oiled it up to keep it from rusting. (Didn't like the cost of Stainlees steel)

If you don't want to mess with stainless, go "stressproof" (astm A311) it's cold worked to 100,000 psi yield, can be bought ground and polished and is free machining, no heat treating necessary. steve

I have seen steel shafts used before I have several old unlimited shafts around that are steel. Infact a runabout that I am working on has a steel shaft in it. trying to get it apart in pieces.