Renault 19 16V Forum

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Engine turns over but does not fire.

by

I am currently unable to start my Renault 19 16V P2,L Reg, '93, 1764 (Multipoint with Cat).

The engine turns over but it does not even attempt to start. I presume this is as no fuel is being supplied. We have bridged the relays in the auxilary fuse box and the fuel pump still works.

After some testing I have a few questions that maybe someone could clear up?

There are two brown light brown relays side by side in the auxilary fuse box. What are they?

Next to the auxilary fusebox, towards the radiator there is a 4 pin component contained within a black plastic case, with pin numbers 1,2,3,4 and 5 (blank). It is bolted to the inner wing by one screw. what is it, what does it do? There is no sign of this 4 pin component on the circuit diagram in the Haynes manual.

When the car is switched off this part makes a buzzing noise, but if the second of the two light brown relays is removed (the one nearer the radiator) the buzzing stops. Any idea why?

I noticed there was a previous string about ECU problems, but I am not sure if this is related?

Any ideas would be greatfully recieved.

Regards

Jonathan Lee

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 3:18 PM

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i got similar prob...

by jimbo

yesterday i went out to start mine. it cranked for a bit then started although briefly to about 500rpm. then it just stopped. having been able to start it since. although when cranking i can hear ticking sound , sounds like a spark is arcing somewhere.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 3:23 PM

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Your engine prob

by Al

The relay that is bolted onto the wing is for your aux waterpump (the buzzing when you turn your engine off). I cant remember what the two brown ones are for but i think one is fuel pump and the other switches your ecu on. Are you getting a spark? If not you could have an ECU problem. I had similar problems and in the end it was the switch WIRE for the ECU. It runs underneath the Rad and is exposed so it corrodes.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 30, 2001, 8:27 PM

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R19 16v Starting Problems

by Mike

I have had similar problems on my phase 1. But i have noticed that water leaks through the bonnet vent, dribbling through onto the HT leads. Pull the first ht lead off the plug and check that there is no water residue in the hole. You probabley have checked this already.

My water pump also runs when the engine is off.

Posted on Feb 4, 2001, 5:11 PM

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Relays

by

The two brown coloured relays are the fuel pump relays 1 and 2. The one attached to the wing is the auxilary water pump relay/timer.

Posted on Jan 31, 2001, 2:43 AM

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Engine turns overs but won't start - Reply

by Jonathan Lee

Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll be doing some tests at the weekend, and will probably be trowling round the breakers for some parts.

I see there is some differences in what people think the relays do though. Will the Renault dealers give a definitive answer?

Cheers

Jonathan.

Posted on Feb 8, 2001, 2:01 PM

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Bad starting phase 1

by

does anyone out there know whats up with my renault..
the car when cold starts and runs fine....when hot though restarting is a nightmare and the starter seems
particularly slow, also if the car is stalled it will not start either. I have cleaned up all the earth points, new starter, crank shaft sensor, and coolant
sender, and dizzy. Im at real loss, when i first
bought the car the anti percolation pump used to run all the time when the igntion was turned off, i disconnected this due to the lack of info on fault finding on why it was doing it.
Ive seen another car with the same prob....is this common...please help!!

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 12:11 PM

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Bad Starting

by Al

Get your Aux water pump going. This will stop your fuel evaporating in the fuel rail when you turn your engine off. This wil be your problem.

Posted on Jan 30, 2001, 8:20 PM

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Please help...

by

Hi fellas, over the weekend, me and my Dad fitted a new passenger side coil spring to pass the MOT, after re-fitting the wheel, I noticed that my fuel computer had lost it's back lit display, you can still see the numbers, only really feint, is there an earth around the passenger side wheel, or will it just be a bulb or a fuse? Any help much appreciated.

Mart.

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 11:35 AM

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Fuel!!

by

First of all thanks for your help. On the other hand My tank fills up at 13.4g. At the moment I have done 90m and the indication on the computer is at 7.8.
I have not calculated exactly but I think that I get get around 200-220m which is very low with a car not modified.
Have you got any ideas what might be wrong.
Please let me know cause I am spending too much money on petrol.

Thanks,

Stathis

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 10:29 AM

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it sounds as though...

by jimbo

your car is running rich, so check the air filter. if its clogged with crap then change it. also get a lambda sensor test done as yours could be buggered. the lambda sensor measures the o2 reading in the exhaust gases and tells the ecu to run lean or rich.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 11:02 AM

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How much .....

by

Thanks for your help. I am taking the car tomorrow in a Renault garge to replace the filter.

How much do you thing this will reduce the fuel consumption?

Also I am going to take this lambdra test you said.


Cheers.

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 1:31 PM

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i'm not too sure...

by jimbo

that a clogged airfilter would cause a huge amount in the reduction in mpg. i would say it more likely to be a knackered lambda sensor. if it is knackered don't buy one from reno, there about £260. go to a bosch dealer and buy one for £60. same one, it just hasn't got reno written on it!

jimbo

p.s. do you experince dodgy idling problems as well, as this is a tell tale sign of a buggered lambda sensor?

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 3:20 PM

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Idling Problems...

by Stathis

I have not noticed any idling problems except yesterday my reno had some difficulties in starting the engine. I do not think this is related to the sensor.
Anyway thanks for your help.
I will let you know tomorrow what's the problem since I am taking it to a garage.

Thanks a lot.

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 3:55 PM

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Trip computer...

by

Hi fellas, over the weekend, me and my Dad fitted a new passenger side coil spring to pass the MOT, after re-fitting the wheel, I noticed that my fuel computer had lost it's back lit display, you can still see the numbers, only really feint, is there an earth around the passenger side wheel, or will it just be a bulb or a fuse? Any hellp much appreciated.

Mart.

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 9:20 AM

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trip computer

by

Does the clock illuminate? if not try the radio fuse

Posted on Feb 3, 2001, 7:25 PM

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Rattles when cold on Startup

by RT

My 92 16v rattles like a pig when starting from cold when been left than for more than 4/5 hrs. Its ok when been running for a few minutes or when engine is warm and re-started. Got a feeling could be oil not reaching somewhere important like bearings or tappets until up to temp. The oil/filter was changed at Reno garage recently but still the same. One tappet is ticking also when engine is fully warmed up/ Any ideas on what this rattling is and how to cure it? Cheers

Posted on Jan 28, 2001, 10:16 PM

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i get the same...

by jimbo

problems as you. it starts and there's loud tapping sounds from the engine. on mine even when fully warm it still ticks. try different oils and oil additives. it might help it might not. also give the engine a good flush with engine flush. gets rid of all the crap around the tappets and oil galleries.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 28, 2001, 10:36 PM

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thing is......

by rt

The car never used to make this noise. Wonder if cold weather is affecting it, someone mentioned a dry sump on these cars, could be something to do with that?. Either way sure somethign isn't right, I have a spare cylinder head which could be put on might investigate costs and stuff. Do any other posters have a view on nosises when cold, sure it shouldn't sound like this it's like a deisel!., when cold other wise sounds like beast : )

Posted on Jan 28, 2001, 11:23 PM

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yep

by ric

mine sounds like a diesel when its cold too.
Sounds bloody awful till you heat it up.

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 9:14 AM

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cold start

by

hi i've been looking formy electric connevtor for my cold start on my 19 16v 1991 , i can visual the injector , but there's no connector ?

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 11:13 PM

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lambarda sensor

by

can any tell me were the lambarda sensor is located i've tried the hayes and still can't find it , cold start problems

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 8:34 PM

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Lambda Sensor

by

It is located just before the cat, on the down pipe of the exhaust.

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 9:18 PM

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nice one

by

thanks keith

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 11:14 PM

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Cold Starting

by

I've got a crackin L reg '93 Phase 2 16V. We've been blissfull happy for the last 4 years but recently cold starting has been a problem! After she's heated up (even a little bit) no problems at all, but that first start of the day she's very reluctant to fire up. Dist cap & rotor arm were changed at the last service (2 mths ago)and I put new HT leads on a fortnight ago. Battery and alternator are both fine and starter spins OK....just won't catch and when she finally does I have to nurse her until it sounds like she's running on all 4 cylinders and the idle behaves itself.

Has anyone had similar problems or an ideas on what to try next ???????

Stew.

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 7:43 PM

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Cold Starting

by Rob

Same happened to mine, changed leads plugs etc. still no joy. Someone told me could be the throttle body/pot, try cleaning it. Worked for me.

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 8:09 PM

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check and clean

by

everything on intake, including injectors and manifold. Check lambda sensor. A knackered lamnda sensor can fail when cold first the will fail in hot too so thats a easy one. Did anyone touch the throttle potentiometer on your cars?

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 8:23 PM

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Cold Starting

by

Could be temp. sensor or cold start injector.

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 9:20 PM

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How many miles?

by

I was just wondering how many miles can I do with a full tank!

I spend quite a lot of money and I would like to compare with you standards. My Renault 19 16V Chamade is not modified but I speed quite a lot.

Please let me know comparing with your measurements.

Cheers.

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 1:34 PM

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Here ya go...

by Paul Murdoch

Okay full tank is norm 12.3gallons!! (for me)

I get about 21mpg but I have a fucked fuel pump and 2 wheels bearings this all adds to high fuel consuption plus I have a full mongoose de cat pipe/K&N airfilter and 17's plus I very high need for speed!!

I get from a full tank norm 260miles!!

So you should prob be getting 300!! I do drive very fast and down the dualcarriage way at about 120 so you should get more!!

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 2:25 PM

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492 miles!!

by jimbo

i can get 492 miles out of a tank if driving conservatively. that's at 40mpg. quite hard to achieve, but possible.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 3:11 PM

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damn..

by

I've never seen MPG that good out of mine.. I get about 28Mpg if I drive conservatively (70-90MPH constant speed, no traffic jams, long journey).. So that's about 330miles from a tank..

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 4:01 PM

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on a 60mile...

by jimbo

trip to cardiff i managed 42mpg at a constant (well sort of) 70mph. although do remember, that to get an accurate reading you have to reset the trip before the journey otherwise nothing happens to the mpg.

jimbo

p.s. on average i get about 35-38mpg at about 80-90mph.

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 4:30 PM

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Water Probs.

by James Irwin

New head-gasket about 5,000 miles ago. Car going great.
Next thing, Rusty water all over driveway. Oh Shit! - The jubillee clip holding the pipe leading from the expansion tank to the baulk head had came off. Got it tightened and refilled, happy days.

2 months later ......

Checked water level yesterday, resting on the MIN sign. Where did the water go? The engine had just had a full valet, 10 days ago, so I would have seen the rusty water marks somewhere in the engine bay. Refilled, level still fine, day 3. Any ideas ?

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 1:34 PM

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leaks

by

check for common leak sources like hoses, connections, tank cap, and is IMPERATIVE you should begin to use some good quality coolant to stop the rust in cooling system, remember that our engines are aluminum ones and that needs to be well mantained, if not you will have overheating/matrix/kaput problems.

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 4:04 AM

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Leaks

by James Irwin

There are no leaks as far as I can see. I'm using the coolant that the Renault dealers put in, when serviced. (Every 6,000 miles) Is this not good enough ? Are there any other possibilities where the water could have gone ?

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 7:05 PM

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Phase II alloys wanted

by

Has anyone got any 19 16V phase II alloys for sale ?
They must be very good condition.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 9:12 PM

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phase 2 wheels coming off my car soon

by

im removing my phase 2 wheels for another set of phase 2 that i have had renovated to original if you are interested? paul

Posted on Feb 25, 2001, 8:58 PM

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How much should I ask

by GeeBee

I'm thinking of selling (sob sob) my Reb 19.

Any ideas on what I should ask.

95 M reg
3 owners
19 16v Exec
5 door
Full leather interior
75k
Full service history - recent cambelt change
Full MOT
2 x new front tyres
Blue (of course)
Bodywork in excellent condition - 1 minor rust spot on the bootlid.
All standard
Sony headunit & 10 disc autochanger in boot

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 10:20 AM

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£50, then i'll take it haha... try around the £3300 mark...

by Paul Murdoch

maybe more, but people like em not so standard means they look sweet the old thing of looks sweet been killed is dying people are realising looks sweet cared for underneath... so try £3300 or more!!
Reno's are selling at the moment!!

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 12:07 PM

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WTF

by Robbie

I think you should lay off the drink Paul!

If you're trying to say the car is worth more becuase it is standard looking then I'd agree with you.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 12:40 PM

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Depending on the buyer then yes...

by Paul Murdoch

Some people only buy a car if its standard others only if its modded, but the new way of looking at cars is okay it looks nice enough, but has it been looked after well, cleaned properly bla bla, sorry about earlyer msg, was having a really BAD day, nearly walked out on my job, long story cut short!!
But he should be asking around that price anyhow just because the reno market it picking up and people want reno's and especially youngsters wanting 5 / 19's cause they look smart modded/unmodded...
But people tend to favour still like you say towards a standard car/but more and more are coming out the factory already modded hence the old boy racer thing going out the window!!

But one thing that knocks 1000 off the price is gay stickers all over the motor ie, kenwood/sony and shit!! and a MAX POWER sticker on the rear window knocks 1500 off, but halford baby on board stickers will add a nice 500, they've got a baby can't drive fast bullshit people fall for everyday!!

Anyhow nuff said okay less jibberish shit from me

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 2:22 PM

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Paul

by Robbie

I thought something might be wrong 'cos your messages are normally quite coherent.
Totally agree with you on the stickers tho'.

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 6:26 PM

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but

by roOsdi

this is coming from a guy (paul) with a huuuuuuge Motorsport sticker on windscreen......

Ian

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 10:39 AM

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ERRRRRRRRR.....

by Paul Murdoch

I no longer have that sticker on my windscreen thanks, and shall be placing a hill power one on there for summer later on this year!!

SO GO FARK YA SEL

I must admit I should never had done it but, we all must learn at a price

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 5:31 PM

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indeed

by roOsdi

I was only pulling ya plonker.

Some people are so easy to wind up...

Ian

Posted on Jan 29, 2001, 5:41 PM

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What is this jibberish???

by Anonymous

??????

Posted on Jan 26, 2001, 1:06 PM

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HG question

by

had a new head gasket job done about 1k miles ago. Ive heard your supposed to get the head bolts tightened after a while but they never said anything to me about this. Whats the deal here then?????

cheers
si

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 11:51 PM

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head bolts

by

There is no requirement to retighten the cylinder head bolts on the F-type engine, So the Haynes manual says.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 2:40 AM

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Wheels

by ROB

Don't suppose anyones got any of the centre caps for the 16V phase II wheels? (15inch)
just one may do.

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 7:00 PM

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renault 5

by rory

somebody drove into my mums absolutely mint 1993 renault 5 campus. insurance are paying up but she gets to keep the car. any body know anyone who may want to buy the wreck 4 the mint interior or 37k 1.4 engine. maybe to tart up an older 5. may go for salvage but been looking for a private buyer on the net. any help as i know i can always rely on you lot. (front driver wing and door damage, white)

rory

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 6:45 PM

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Help Please

by Bryan Glover

My father in law owns a Renault 19 16v on a 'H' PLate. It is alot of fun most of the time but there is a problem !!

Water seems to build up ( in the sparks plug recesses until it literally drowns the plugs causing extreme 'lumpiness' and then cuts out until we dry it out .

Several weeks pass between bouts of the problem and it seems impossible that water is getting in from the outside or from the engine cooling system. Could it be condensation ?

Have any of you had a similar problem ? Is there a solution ??

Yours Lumpy of Lincolnbshire

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 1:48 PM

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its

by roOsdi

coming from the vent, seal it up with silicone

Ian

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 3:21 PM

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Water in wells

by Lee M

It could be coming in from outside via the vent on the bonnet...........but if it is building up quite a lot it is more than likely to be the core plugs leaking from the block. It happened to mine once and cost me about £80 to be sorted at renault, make sure they replace you rocker gasket properly (with a suitable sealant).
To check look at the colour of the water bluy-green is coolant, clear is water....

Hope this helps

Lee

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 8:40 PM

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Water

by

I had the same problem with my car. I got nem seals fpr the spark plugs, and made up a plate to cover the top of the engine, which I clamped to the strut brace. Never had a problem since.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 1:28 AM

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ABS, brakes and gearbox

by

I understand that the ABS pump runs every time you press the pedal. But how loud is the pump when its running. Mine just seems to be very loud. Also can I change the brake pipes, pump if faulty, calipers or bleed the system. The haynes manual just says take it to the dealer. Finally has anyone changed the gearbox with the engine still in the car on an engine with an aluminium sump, again the manual states you have to remove the engine.

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 9:32 AM

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yes

by

You can change the gearbox with the engine in place. I have done it 3 times. Its tight but possible.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 1:22 AM

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thanks

by

Thanks for the reply, You have saved me a lot of work removing the engine as well, I will give it a go. Any idea's on my other problems.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 2:34 AM

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help!! got a dodgy engine

by

my r19 16v (its a phase 1 j reg)has suddenly lost all power ie no excelleration and it struggles up the slightest of hills, it now only does about 20mpg there is a lot of smoke out the back and a strong smell of petrol so presume its started to run very rich and the idle is jumping from 1200 to around 2000 at tick over. Any suggestions greatly recieved

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 9:59 PM

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where can i get the parts?

by

guys i've only got a standard 19 l reg because the insurance companies laughed at me when i said i was getting a 16v. So i bought a peco dtm and have got some fat wheels, now all i need is the body parts!
Does any one know where i can get them from?
james, surrey

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 2:43 PM

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HAHAHAHA... We've got a PECO DTM owner here

by Paul Murdoch

BROOM BROOM GOES THE CHEEP EXHAUST!!

Don't tell me you have some nice FAT 15" FOX 5's from halfords with some go faster stripes to match...

Only joking mate, your best bet for a smart body kit go to prima racing find there number in max power/fast car... (next to the PECO shop ;-))
Think its cause the F2 or something like that, also try the scrappy for the rear bumper/skirts this is cause the fronts all ways smashed

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 3:43 PM

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REPLY

by paUL BEDDS

TRY automobiles.hypermart.net they are shit hot for parts and own breakers yards in france . The owner will import for you used parts

Posted on Jan 27, 2001, 11:19 PM

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Waterpump-Relay

by

I have a renault 19 16v (1991). The problem is that the battery is going flat. The waterpump does not switch itself off. I have been told that it is the relay for the waterpump, i have tried ordering a relay for the pump yet every dealer (including Renault dealers) i have rang have told me that there is no relay for the waterpump. I would be very grateful if anybody can tell me where i can find one.

Cheers Paul

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 1:38 PM

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If its causing you that much shit...

by Paul Murdoch

Pull the bloody fuse out the fuse box...

But there is a relay but only on the AUX water pump, I have not this problem cause I pulled the bloody thing off and fitted a pipe instead much better I'll tell ya

Not sure if this helps but it might!!

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 3:45 PM

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relay

by Jon Connolly

Do what I did. Just take the relay off and take it to any shitty second hand parts dealer. They`ll probably have a load of relays and can find a match with yours - might cost you a tenner. I changed mine and even though the pump appears to still be running my battery doesn`t drain anymore.

Jon

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 9:20 PM

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Relay/Timer

by

The relay in question is located under the bonnet on left wing beside the headlight. Just plug it out until you can get a replacement. I will see if I can get a renault part number for it. The electric water pump should stay on any longer than 15mins. If it is still running after this time then the relay/timer is at fault.

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 2:12 AM

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any one want a hyundai pony for 100 nicker

by Frank Butcher

i got a lovely little number on my car lot my boy and im not talking about pat evans. hyundai pony 3.2 litre turbo charged with a kenwood sticker and harness pads its a real corker my son £100 ono contact deals on wheels albert square walford. p.s pat sucks good

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 12:59 PM

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Give it up...

by

you are really a strange little boy arn't you wouldn't the bigger boys play with you nicely, kept riding you like that little pony you have for sale!!

PS Pat don't suck cause her first name is COW...

PPS Pony's are much to powerfull for us Reno owners

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 3:40 PM

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405 Mi16 sporty back box wanted Bolton Manchester

by

Hi,
I after a back box with a sporty note for my G reg 405 Mi16 1.9.
Give us an E-mail, may consider system if cheap but realy looking for a back box to fit the standard system.
Any advice on this would also be geat, like best new ones, pros cons etc.

Cheers all

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 9:16 AM

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Didn't know Reno did 405's...

by Paul Murdoch

I some how thought they only did 2numbered motors... not 3...

Aw well best I try and help, try a Max Power mag as they tend to have loads of places that'll help ya

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 3:48 PM

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Untitled

by NIPPLE

I THINK HE MAY BE REFERRING TO THE PEUGEOT 405 Mi 16 BEASTIE....

STILL FRENCH THO INNIT


Nippon

http://www.customcollectables-uk.com

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 3:19 PM

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power drain

by Gordon

Can anyone help me when I turn on my rear window heater it drains loads of power out of my battery ive looked for any loose wires that mite be earthing out but couldnt find any thing wrong so please help oh yea the cars a ph 2 19 16v chamade

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 9:59 PM

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Battery Drain

by

What condition is the battery in. What voltage is across the battery terminals when the engine is running at about 2000rpm. What makes you say it is the rear window heater, what does it do. What are the symptoms.

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 2:57 AM

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rear window heater

by gordon

well what happens when i turn on the rear window heater is that the lights lose a lot of power when the car is ticking over when the revs go past about 2000 the lights pick up again

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 2:01 PM

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Chance's are...

by Paul Murdoch

that
A, your battry has gone flat and will never hold a charge any more
B, Your alternator isn't charging battery enough (worn out)
C, You've got a bloody big window (haha sorry could't help it)
D, the problem I had, that the alternator and fan belt were not touching truely, so I replaced my belt and now its a treat

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 3:51 PM

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Steamy Windows

by Robbie

I think Paul's dead right with that. People may not realise but the heated rear window draws a big current. Make sure you always turn it off after the window has demisted.

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 8:45 PM

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And turn down

by Mark B

Your ICE! My lights dim when the ice is on!

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 12:57 PM

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Normal

by

That,s about normal. The altenator isn,t turning fast enough to produce full output. Check the voltage across the terminals at idle and at about 1500rpm.

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 2:03 AM

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disc

by

are the abs sensor teeth cogs seperate to the disc themselves. so will the non 16v disc be ok a.s.a.p

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 6:43 PM

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Untitled

by Christos D

Yes they are seperate.

Posted on Jan 25, 2001, 2:12 PM

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Cold Car!

by

The temp guage on my ph2 16v convertible hardly moves when the car is moving at speed and the heater doesnt work, however when th car is stationary the guage will be in between the first mark and the second mark, then the heater will start to blow out warm(not hot) air..... a garage has said my matrix has gone.is this so? or is there something i can do to get some heat into my cockpit coz its bloody freezing!!!!

Ta for any help

JT

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 2:57 PM

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Sounds like

by Dave Refault


Your themostat is stuck open.

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 4:16 PM

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Most defenatly :-) nm.

by Paul Murdoch

No Msg

Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 3:52 PM

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Air filter straight on Throttle body ???? looking for a final answer

by Lee M

I have been told various placements for an induction filter in a 19 16v.

Chris trick (further up the forum) shows some photos including a smaller filter in the air intake valve which he said came in a JR filter kit.
Is the filter best straight on the throttle housing with good cold air ducting or on the end of the existing pipe?????
Has anybody also got one of these kits, as I have been told that for the smaller filter removing the exisiting pipes and putting this smaller filter on will make the car run really bad!!!I would appreciate your help on this matter.

If it makes it go better it will be done!!!

Thanks for the help Cheers people

Lee

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 2:07 PM

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gawd

by Dave Refault



You want to keep the filter as far away from the block as possible.

There.

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 2:15 PM

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JR Induction Kit

by

I have this kit on my 16v. The closer the filter to the trottle body the better. The air gets in faster, less restrictions for the air, ie.bends. The smaller filter on the end of the idle speed control valve does not make the car idle roughly. The Jetex filter makes a nicer induction roar than the K&N kit. I've had this kit on my last car and had no problems, just great sound.

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 7:33 PM

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Yeah and

by Dave Refault



The block nicely heats up the air around the filter, yeah really for combustion that............


Posted on Jan 23, 2001, 9:17 AM

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But

by

That small filter that is near the block is only used for the idle speed, and it doesn't make the idle rough on mine. The time you really need cold air is at engine speeds above idle,ie.acceleration. The air then comes from the main filter at the trottle body. The K&N filter comes with some tubing to supply cold air directly to the filter. You can use the original piping from the air box.

Posted on Jan 24, 2001, 1:58 AM

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Coils...

by

I had my MOT the other day, sailed through apart from the coil spring on my front left suspension, which was cracked TWICE. Anyone know any rough prices, and how much for fittig? Any help much appreciated.

Mart.

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 1:01 PM

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Same story.....

by

Same thing happened to me... coil spring snapped... Halfords want £115 (+ vat + fitting) EACH... didn't bother with Renault (bound to be expensive)... instead bought some lowering springs (£50 the set) and got them on... luvvly jubbly.

Tezza.

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 6:44 PM

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Suspension

by Geoff

When I went to Kwik Fit to get the tracking done, they noticed that my car was sitting lower than it should - turned out to be 2 knackered shocks and each spring was cracked twice. Cost me £150 for the 2 shocks fitted then the garage charged me £60 for the set of new springs as they already had the old ones off so no labour.

Cheers
Geoff

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 10:43 PM

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Wheels

by

Hey Guys, Long time, no see (Or read, whateva)

does anyone know of a website where i can get some wheels. Im looking at the league 037's or the 088's

Cheers guys

StEvE

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 9:51 AM

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Boxhill Meet -3rd Feb-

by Dave Refault


There will be all makes of performance cars. It has been arranged for Saturday 3rd Feb.

The meet is at the cafe at the bottom of the hill as you head into Dorking on the A24. Come off the M25 at junction 9 and follow signs for the A24 towards Dorking. At the petrol station (might be a Texaco) turn left to continue towards Dorking on the A24 and after about 2 miles you come to some dual carriageway. The cafe is a little way after the start of this dual carriageway. If you miss the first turning you can continue to the roundabout, turn left, travel a small way up the hill and the main entrance is on your left.

The event starts at Box Hill at about 2.00pm.

Would be nice to see some so of you guys there. I'll be there in my 200sx, and my old R19 16V will be there as well! It'll be good to see the ol' 175odd bhp beastie again!

Cheers

Dave


Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 11:08 AM

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dave, what mods did...

by jimbo

you do to yor valver then to get 170bhp, and how much did it all cost.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 2:03 PM

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Ahh!

by Dave Refault


Come down Boxhill and you can see it for yourself! And before any decide "thats aload of bollox" It was dyno'd TWICE. Suffice to say it cost about 3 grand and includes cams/pulleys chips blah bleeding blah. Bloody expensive modding Normally Aspriated cars, my 200sx is much much cheaper to mod!

So any of you lot gonna move your asses down to Boxhill?

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 6:41 PM

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3k

by Dave Refault


That was for the lot, wheels brakes fooking everything.

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 6:52 PM

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Meet up

by Paul Murdoch

Would have come but work out the bill to just get there and back and thats 2hours driving and £50 plus food of course

Maybe next time mate

Posted on Jan 20, 2001, 3:53 PM

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tappets

by

Howdy
I have a 94 p2 - its a little noisy in the morning for a minute or two . I am wondering about Magnatec / Slick 50? - which will I use - will it help?? - I use a semi at the moment - duckhams qxr - which seems OK - or should i move to full synthetic?
Tnx
Dave

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 10:34 AM

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Tappets

by Christos D

I use both (Magnatec for advanced engines and Slick 50) and in the morning they are still a bit noisy for a couple of minutes, but they definitely improved things.
Christos D

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 1:25 PM

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Just for your info.

by Chri§

The tappets will always appear noiser on these cars when there first started. This is because they are hydraulic self adjusting tappets and need time to settle...

Chri§

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 1:55 PM

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or it could be like mine...

by jimbo

where it takes about 10mins or more to get them quiet, even then they're still a bit noisy. slick 50 is pretty good, keeps the oil clean for ages. i use 10w40 stuff, which works fine, don't use anyhting thinner though, cause it's like water when hot.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 2:02 PM

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anybody know how long...

by jimbo

it takes to change all three engine mounts, as i've been quoted today 4.5hrs (which seems a very long time).

jimbo

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 6:49 PM

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Engine mount

by Christos D

I just did mine. The gearbox one is very easy (approx 1/2 hour), the off-side one requires the alternator/steering pump bracket removed to reach the bolts (approx 1 hour), the rear one is even a bigger pain to remove. I had to drop the subframe to reach it (1-2 hours).
The funny thing is that the engine still seems loose to me.
Hope it helps
Christos D.

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 1:46 PM

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Idle speed.

by Dan

Any body got any problems with the idle speed on the R19-16V especially when the engine is cold. Been told it might be the throttle pot.
Also any body selling decent 17?

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 6:29 PM

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Do you mean 17's?

by Paul Murdoch

If so then jon has some for sale I think, TSW evo R's...

Idle on the valver is always an issue try, replacing everything first... ie, give it a good service.

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 9:28 AM

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17's

by roOsdi

I know someone thats selling 17" ATP multispokes with tyres for £250(V.cheap) If ya interested.

Ian

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 9:57 AM

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Ian

by

You got a pic of these at all? - what condition etc etc?

Cheers
Geoff

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 11:04 AM

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I think

by roOsdi

u might be a bit tooooo late mate. My mate with the pink(ish) 5 turbo is gonna nab them. I'll let u know if it falls through though.

Ian

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 2:18 PM

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Cheers! (nm)

by Geoff

..

Posted on Jan 20, 2001, 10:14 AM

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Iddle speed

by Christos D

Mine did the same thing twice when cold (dropping at 500-600 rpm) but it stopped!
Maybe a good clean of the throttle body might be beneficial!

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 1:39 PM

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Rough Idle

by

Mine used to drop to 500 or 600rpm then shoot back up to 1200rpm and then back to idle{1000rpm}. It would do this when cold for about 10mins. Turned out to be Lambda sensor.

Posted on Jan 20, 2001, 2:01 AM

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wheels

by rory

as my car may be a write off soon, i am looking 4 some standard renault wheels (16v) to stick on my motor in case they keep it as id like to keep my 16's. north london area or i could travel, or alternatively anyone may know of a 16v in a scrapyard with its wheels on.

thanks, rory

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 5:24 PM

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Wheels

by Robbie

I've got a set of phase 2 wheels. Let me know when your cars fate is decided.

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 8:36 PM

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re: Wheels

by

Rory mate, if you like you can have my 16v wheels and some cash for your 16s... what make/model are they, and what condition are they (and the tyres) in?

Tezza.

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 12:03 AM

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Spots....

by

Does anyone know the best place to get hold of some front fogs for a phase 1 Hatch? Rough idea of price as well please. They don't have to be original renault, as long as they fit.

Cheers.

Mart.

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 4:12 PM

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Fogs

by Robbie

Check out Andyspares for new stuff (www.andyspares.com). About 30 quid if I recall. Or check out any Renault breakers (from Auto Trader) for secondhand stuff.

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 8:32 PM

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6Core 10mm Race & Rally Ignition Leads

by

The MultiPower 6* - 6Core 10mm Ignition Leads for Race & Rally have 6 cores of the best conductors known to the motoring industry - Carbon & Optical Fibre with Wire wound round each of the 6 conductors encompassing the complete 'core'.

Insulation is in the form of Re-inforced Silicone capable of withstanding extreme temperatures produced from the most highly aspirated engines.

Our 6Core 10mm Ignition Leads carry 15 times more current than OE Leads and between 4-6 times more than 'performance' sets.

But where is the need for this?

Pointblank Trading’s 6Core 10mm Ignition Leads enable your engine to perform to its maximum capabilities, thus ensuring you get the very best drive, each time.

Website http://www.pointblanktrading.co.uk
(If you do not already have FlashPlayer, Download it FREE from our site in order to proceed with correct viewing)

Emission regulations are here to stay. Most of the world is faced with all types of vehicular tests to ensure strict control measures. Thus, with all these rules, finding legal performance upgrades can be a very difficult thing.

One of the cornerstones of improved performance is a clean running, crisply tuned engine. A more complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture is one of the easiest tuning tricks that can be employed to extract the maximum horsepower an engine is capable of producing.

Providing the air/fuel mixture with a hotter, more intense spark best attains improved combustion; the hotter the spark will burn more of the mixture, with means more power produced within the cylinder. Not only does a hotter ignition of the air/fuel mixture produce more power at the drive wheels, but it usually increases the economy of the engine, as less fuel is wasted through the exhaust stroke. For the most part, this means tail pipe emissions are reduced.

This sounds great, doesn't it? Improved performance and better emissions. Is there a catch? Not really. A hotter spark can be added in a variety of ways: plugs, ignition leads, coil and aftermarket ignition systems. There are many aftermarket ignition leads available, with each company offering many variations in insulation, thickness, current and colour.

After-market conventional and ‘high-performance’ ignition leads, all try to get a more intense and ‘pure’ spark to enable the air and fuel mixture to ignite. In our case, this is attained through the Carbon & Optical Fibre that runs through the middle of the ignition lead (X6).

Currently, our 6Core Ignition Leads are used in Group 'N' Porsche and BMW M Power Racing in the UK.

Other performance tuners include:

Dialynx - VW Audi Quattro Sport 'RR' Tuners

DP Motorsport - Nissan Pulsar GTiR, Toyota Supra/MR2 and Porsche Modifiers

HiTEQ Performance - Pulsar GTiR & Skyline GT-R Tuners and Modifiers

Moseley Motorsport - BMW MPower Race Tuning Specialists

TOM FERGUSON - Porsche Race Tuning Specialists

Bexley Motor Works – Independent BMW Specialists

AH2000 – BMW E30 Parts Suppliers

And so on.

We manufacture for most applications, even special 1 off projects.

http://www.pointblanktrading.co.uk

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 3:20 PM

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Cor

by Dave Refault


They should be good for 60000000000000000000000000000000000000000bhp!

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 4:18 PM

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6 Core HT leads!!

by roOsdi

Just doing a bit of shameless advertising for my mates website.

www.pointblanktrading.co.uk

Instead of your regular single or twin core leads this guy has developed SIX CORE LEADS!!!

Go check it out.



Ian

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 2:17 PM

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Do they fit the reno? ifso how much?

by Paul Murdoch

Seeing as he is a mate, nudge nudge

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 3:29 PM

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6Core 10mm Race & Rallt HT Leads

by

RRP £150 + Del.
Special Offer £130 inc del.

Note:
4Cylinder 8/16/24V + Turbo/G60 => (5Leads) RRP £149.95

6Cylinder 8/16/24V + Turbo/G60 => (7Leads) RRP £209.95

Call for special offers.

www.pointblanktrading.co.uk

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 9:56 AM

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2 questions?

by Paul Murdoch

How long do they last?

IS there really any gains?

£130 hmm... I am tempted cause I do need some

Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 1:52 PM

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6Core 10mm Race & Rally HT Leads

by

1. These 6Core Leads come with a lifetime warranty

2. Are there any gains?.....Read below, then ask again if you need to!!

We are all after the Performance ‘Holy Grail’ of products to get the MAX from our cars and we seem to go through great lengths to get it…be it pain, sweat, working extra long hours, taking loadsa extra shit from the boss at work etc.

What we all seem to forget about performance tuning is what is at the forefront of any tuning – air/fuel & spark ratio. Getting these 100% is what we are always after. In fact all performance tuners, rally mechanics, group N tuners etc are all after the perfect ‘mixture’. Why?

The problem these days is that so many of us seem to forget the simplest things in life in striving for the bigger and better products out there.

Tell me, how well you think a Skyline GT-R with 900Bhp will perform on 185/70/14 SR tyres??

Welcome The MultiPower 6* - 6Core 10mm Ignition Leads for Race & Rally have 6 cores of the best conductors known to the motoring industry - Carbon & Optical Fibre with Wire wound round each of the 6 conductors encompassing the complete 'core'.

Insulation is in the form of Re-enforced Silicone capable of withstanding extreme temperatures produced from the most highly aspirated engines.

Website http://www.pointblanktrading.co.uk
(If you do not already have FlashPlayer, Download it FREE from our site in order to proceed with correct viewing)

The currently available HT Leads on the market are either single or dual cores compared to the 6 cores that we produce.

Many tests have significantly proved time and time again that our 6Core Ignition Leads carry up to 15 times the current of OE equipment and between 4-6 times more than the most popular 'performance' brands available today.

With this in mind, our prices are very competitive in that they are very favourable to the customers of 8/16V and Turbo charged engines. How? Well, we do not differentiate in prices. The caps used differentiate in prices to a negligible amount, thus we keep those costs to ourselves not passing them to our customers.

Our current Performance Tuning distributors in the UK include:

Moseley Motorsport - BMW M3 Race Specialists

Dubsport - VW Tuners and Modifiers

Bexley Auto Works – Independent BMW Specialists

Dialynx - VW Audi Quattro Race Tuners

SMP Motorsport - Renault Race Tuning

TOM FERGUSON - Porsche Race Specialists

DP Motorsport - Nissan, Toyota and Porsche Race Tuners

HiTEQ Performance - NISMO GTiR & Skyline GT-R Modifiers

If the ‘Big Boys’ are using them, why aren’t you…

Magazine's that have/will be featuring the 6Core HT Leads include:
Redline, FastCar, MAX Power, Performance VW/FORD/BMW, BMW Car, Fast Ford, BMW, EVO, Stuff Magazine and so on.

www.pointblanktrading.co.uk

Check it out!!


Posted on Jan 18, 2001, 2:16 PM

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6 core leads!!(lifetime warrranty???)

by irvine

as your advert reads it becomes more and more promising what does lifetime warranty in real terms mean?? i am considering buying your product(mods so far rpipercross,de-cat,chip,s/s exhaust,bsh super 4's will this benifit my engine???)

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 12:55 AM

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6Core 10mm HT Leads for Race & Rally

by

'lifetime' means until you sell the car on!! Or until you no longer own it.

See, these leads, if for whatever reason they went wrong, we would replace them after a thorough test to confirm that the flaw/fault you reported was real and true.

So lifetime, means lifetime and gains are to be has all the way to and way buddy.

Happy flyin'

Riz
www.pointblanktrading.co.uk

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 6:31 PM

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i will buy

by irvine

i have tried to go 2 ur web page but my browser does not support it pls email me the costs ren 19 16v phs 1 cheers irvine ijbuckley@yahoo.co.uk

Posted on Jan 20, 2001, 2:36 AM

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6Core 10mm Race & Rally HT Leads

by

Hi Irvine

You must download Macromedia Flash Player FREE befor you can view the site.

Website http://www.pointblanktrading.co.uk
(If you do not already have FlashPlayer, Download it FREE from our site in order to proceed with correct viewing)

Call 0795 641 2222
Quote: RIZ1 Discount

You will get a special price.

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 1:45 PM

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Web Site Updated :-)

by Paul Murdoch

about time really, but just checking it I noticed I left a bit of script out so dont tell me about it cheers... some new pics of my motor

Paul Murdoch
www.r19-16v.co.uk

Also has any1 noticed that you have to clean your car twice a week or it could be just me!!

P.S Tezza when you gonna get some pics

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 1:41 PM

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re.ECU can anyone help

by

does any one live near stockport. I have a r19 16v phase 1 1991 J reg and it won't start. An auto electrician has had a look an says he's 90% sure its the ecu. However a replacement will cost me about £100 pounds. If any one could let me try out there Ecu to see if if starts so I know I am not taking a gamble.

regards

myles

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 4:10 PM

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Myles.. read my reply to you further up in the forum (nm)

by

nm

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 4:11 PM

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ECU

by Al

Hey Myles chill out. All is not lost. I hade same trouble with my J plate 16V. I thought it was ECU probs so i got a new one and she still didn't start. I am sure it will be the switch wire for the ecu that is the problem. It runs underneath the cars radiator and is exposed to the elements therefore it corrodes. My car spent 10 days in a Renault garage and it only cost me £60. 9 1/2 days looking for the fault and 1/2 day fixing it. Fookin reno

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 8:44 PM

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re ECU

by

Hello Al

Thanks for the info. Have you any idea which pin on the ecu this switch wire runs to so I can Check it with a test meter.


regards


myles

Posted on Jan 17, 2001, 10:29 AM

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ECU Pin

by

Permanent power comes from the pin 4 on the multi-plug.
Also check pin 6, pin 7 and pin 19 in the multi-plug for power with key in ignition position. These pins are connected to the fuel injection relays 1 and 2.

Posted on Jan 20, 2001, 1:52 AM

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WANTED

by

HI ALL ANY ONE GOT ANY FRONT WHEEL ABS SENSORS (BENDIX) ONLY SO MY MISERY CAN BE OVER .CHEERS

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 10:38 PM

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bearing,gearbox?whats that noise ,cant find it HELP

by bearing,gearbox ? whats that noise cant find it HE

alright
sounds like a front bearing but its not. changed them anyway. back bearings look and feel fine.the noise starts at about 20 m.p.h and gets louder and louder .it sounds the same as a really bad bearing.when going around right hand cornors noise stops.someone said it could be something to do with the gearbox .how could this be.
RESPECT TO THE 16V

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 6:48 PM

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i got similar prob...

by jimbo

drive along over 20mph loud friction sound coming from the front, turn right same thing, but turn left and the sound goes away. changed front tyres and wheel bearings are okay. possibly cv joints. i was also told knackered diff bearings, so i dunno.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 8:47 PM

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Drive shafts...

by

I reckon it's one of the drive shafts, they make the same noise when worn as a knackered wheel bearing. Get it fully checked out at Renault and then go elsewhere for the repair!

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 6:06 PM

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Buying

by

Thankyou to all that sent me E-mails about the cars they are sellling. I have now brought one and it is great, the best car I have driven.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 5:41 PM

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ANY ADVICE?

by

just reaching out to all of you for some advice. after whacking my car int the curb i finally got round 2 getting it inspected by a mechanic 2 day and it seems the subframe on the front passenger side is bent and will need to be replaced along with a few other parts. anyone else out there done this to their car before as i am worried it may be an insurance write off and i will have to buy a boring car. any help would be appreciated.

p.s. if it is a write off there will be a leather interior and brand new genuine renault phase 1 bumper up for sale, as i havent fitted it yet

cheers, rory (very grumpy 19 16v owner at moment)

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 2:33 PM

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paul m did the same...

by jimbo

smacked into a r/bout wrote it off (i think). althought i'm sure you could try a breakers for a subframe and other bits. hope this helps

jimbo

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 3:57 PM

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yep

by Paul Mitchell

I did the same, smacked a small concrete barrier on a rbout and bent the subframe...it was borderline, but in the end they did write it off. Just to give you an idea, the total repair bill was £3,700 I think...

That was for the subframe, bumper, wheel, all suspension on that side, rejig, labour etc etc...bloody expensive when you think about it!



PM

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 4:21 PM

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dunno about mine

by rory

mine has just damaged the subframe and not much else, suspensions ok, wheel needs a refurb and it didnt touch the bumper. just need to know how much the subframe is.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 7:52 PM

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sorry

by

hi sorry to here off your problems but if it comes to the write off stage , i,d be interested in your abs front sensors , price on the interior , give us a shout , if you have to write it off . hpoe you don,t

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 10:32 PM

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ANY ADVICE?

by

just reaching out to all of you for some advice. after whacking my car int the curb i finally got round 2 getting it inspected by a mechanic 2 day and it seems the subframe on the front passenger side is bent and will need to be replaced along with a few other parts. anyone else out there done this to their car before as i am worried it may be an insurance write off and i will have to buy a boring car. any help would be appreciated.

p.s. if it is a write off there will be a leather interior and brand new genuine renault phase 1 bumper up for sale, as i havent fitted it yey

cheers, rory (very grumpy 19 16v owner at moment)

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 2:32 PM

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Induction kit Question?

by Lee M

In this months addition of Fast Car they did a test on high octane fuel. One of the cars was a 19 16v, and i noticed that the induction kit was bolted directly to the throttle housing (next to the butterfly) and not to the end of the pipe which normally comes from the throttle housing.

Does anyone know weather this is better or worse???

Cheers Lee.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 1:05 PM

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it...

by jimbo

gives better response and a louder induction sound, but performance isn't that good , cause of the heat from the engine next to it. the kit i think is the jetex one. a cold air pipe toward the filter would improve things.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 2:22 PM

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Filter placement............jimbo

by Lee M

Jimbo,
You say it gives better response and induction noise, but you say performance is not that good.
What do you mean by not good.......makes the car slower, poor mpg, or just not a good increase???

Cheers mate

Lee

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 4:30 PM

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i mean

by jimbo

better response= better pickup when you floor it.
poor performance= cold air means better performance, so with the filter right next to the engine your gonna get a lot of warm air which is no good, you'll probably end up with craper performace. solve this by using a cold air feed pipe to the filter.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 4:48 PM

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Better on the Housing

by Chris Trick

I have tried mine both ways, and despite not having been arsed to make a hot air sheild, I still reckon it is better mounted straight into the throttle housing. The only piece of ducting I have is the original piece.

Note on the second picture, the white webbed piece of pipe, which has a small breather filter on the end of it. and the breather pipe elbow coming from the side of the main filter.

This setup is noticably better in response, and in general driving, and a lot noiser at high revs.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 11:18 PM

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Filter info.......Chris Tuck

by Lee M

Chris,
Thanks for the pics...............
Can you elaborate a bit on the silver webed pipe in your second picture.

Cheers Mate

Lee

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 2:24 PM

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Chris Trick.............filter

by Lee M

Chris,
Thanks for the pics...............
Can you elaborate a bit on the silver webed pipe in your second picture.

Cheers Mate

Lee

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 3:15 PM

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Best I can do

by Chris Trick

...at the moment anyway - it ia a piece of pipe about 6 inches long connected to the air sensor. - it goes to a small breather filter which is obscured in the photo by the pipework.

I will probably be home this weekend, so will try and get some better pictures.

This all comes in the JR filters induction kit, but if you can otherwise adapt a K&N (if you already have one) these extra filters only cost about 7 quid.

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 7:59 PM

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will the...

by jimbo

pipercross filter for a clio 16v work as this fits directly to the t/b, plus it's a foam filter which is even better.

jimbo

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 9:01 PM

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Cheers Chris

by Lee M

Thanks for the info, i'll have a go this weekend

Ta

Lee M

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 10:26 PM

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Q 4 Paul Mitchell

by

Paul,
In the picture of your engine at the top of the forum page, what is that blue thing over your induction filter??
Does it make any difference in performance/sound??

Cheers Lee.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 1:01 PM

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thats

by Paul mitchell

all part of the Hill Power induction kit, its a shroud which keeps as much hot air out of the filter as possible......

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 1:31 PM

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And it..

by

makes it £20 more expensive than the Pipercross filter, and £35 more expensive than the K&N

Tezza.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 5:10 PM

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actually

by Paul Mitchell

its 50 quid more expensive than the crappy K&N...

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 5:14 PM

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Well...

by

that's hardly a good advert Save your money and buy a decent Pipercross... After all the Pipercross is most probably a better kit anyway

Tezza.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 5:41 PM

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Pipercross filters

by Dean

Good shout mate, I've replaced the hill power filter with a Pipercross Vector Escort Cosworth big turbo filter, its the biggest filter they do. Made a difference over Mr.Hills, I've also used the shroud from the hill power one as a feed of air to the pipercross.

Get a Pipercross!

I reckon the Ramair is a bit small, I agree that K&N are shit as the pleats clog easy, most foam filters do about the same job, best if you can get a big one as its more surface area for air to flow.

Dean

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 9:43 PM

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Dean!!

by roOsdi

Is that the same size as the RS 500 pipercross? Cos thats the one I've got in mine, which is much better than the K+N.

Ian

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 11:36 AM

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Pipercross

by Anonymous

Basically the big turbo cossie is the same size as the the rs500, I think the escort big turbo has a 68mm neck and the RS500 has a 70mm neck, apart from that there the same.

How do you find it, it starts to suck when your around 4-5000 revs, other than that its pretty quiet.

I reckon it made a difference over the ramair, i noticed more midrange.

Dean

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 8:42 PM

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PiperX RS 500

by roOsdi

I've been generally very impressed, certainly better than the K+N. I've noticed a difference in power all through the rev range and its definately louder/throatier than the K+N. Definately recommend it to anyone else.

Ian

Posted on Jan 22, 2001, 9:35 AM

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help

by rory

i am currently rebuilding my front end on my car (phase 1) and was wondering if any one new of where i could get the following parts, or how much they cost at renault?:

1- passenger side brake cooling duct (rivets to vent in bumper and feeds front brakes)

2- passenger side wheel arch liner( fits to bumper and has hole for cooling duct)

3- phase 1 splitter (rubber one from bumper)

p.s. anyone now how to sort the little rust patches you get when the rear arches get full of mud and it goes through the rear arch.?

Posted on Jan 14, 2001, 6:29 PM

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more speed, more speed!

by LD

i want 1 of those single oval backboxes (by Remus) and a K&N induction kit. Now, if i were 2 race my mate in his standard 19 16v (forget driver ability) how much faster would my car be (im not expecting much) on a typical long straight motorway?

cheers people!

PS. does putting larger rims and thinner tyres make 4 a bumpier ride?

Posted on Jan 14, 2001, 5:39 AM

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stuff

by PM

yes it is noticeable bumpier and stiffer (oo er!) ride with smaller profile tyres...

And the performance increase I think would be negligible...power perhaps 5bhp but I would think it would still be fairly even in a straight line shoot out.

PM

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 9:02 AM

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i have

by ric

an oval back box and a K & N and at first the power seemed more but it was probably because it just sounds so much sweeter.

Also i have 17"s and my tyres are damn thin its bumpy as fuck, when i go down real bumpy roads i swerve the bumps cos sometimes it causes my CD changer to cut out and im sure it doesnt do it any good.

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 10:24 AM

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Speed

by Al

I have a Ph1 Chamade 16V standard. My mate has a Ph1 hatch with pipercross filter and full ss system with de-cat. We had a little race and there was no difference. Bearing in mind i recently had a tune up but 1 of my ht leads is snapped on The inside and his hasn't had a tune. I have driven his car and it sounds much better and revs smoother. I suppose a filter and exhaust is just a small piece of the modifying jigsaw. If you want to go further ie modified head, cams and chip tuning it would be essential to have em.

Posted on Jan 16, 2001, 8:29 PM

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Something little always becomes something major!

by LD

i noticed that my foglight was cracked, i bought a new one, but when i tried to remove the old one it appeared that the screw holding it had been so badly weathered that Allen keys just spin inside it. i cant get screw out and 2 mechanics have been useless with their suggestions: "just keep at it, it'll budge"! does anyone know how? and once i get the light out - will connecting new foglight (wiring etc.) be hard?
thanks in advance, LD.

PS. strut brace seems to held in with same screws and it is loose one side and rattles

Posted on Jan 14, 2001, 5:31 AM

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screws

by Paul Mitchell

the screws are made from soft metal and it will be someone else having tried to get it out thats rounded it off. Its actually a posidriv fitting...

Youll nned to drill it out like I had to with mine...you may be lucky and not fuck the inner plastic part of the bumper, make sure the drills not too big...

Paul

Posted on Jan 15, 2001, 9:01 AM

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16v chamade phase 2

by

I ve just bought a mint 1995 16 valver.The only problem is the fuel computer display has a load of orange interference on it.Any idea about replacements, cost ?

Posted on Jan 13, 2001, 3:33 PM

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common problem!

by Paul Mitchell

renault want 250 odd for a new set up! Try TOP MARKS renault.....ill get the number...theyll be able to help..

Posted on Jan 14, 2001, 1:17 AM

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Top Marks Renault....

by

If you email me (as a reminder) I'll send you the contact details. The details are at work you see.

Trippy screen is about £45 ish. You need to remove the clock set and then remove the screen (screws every where inc. behind the clock numbers paper. Then slot in the new one. Set aside 6 hours if this is the first time you've removed the clock set in a R19.

Email me for the full lowdown as I've done the job! If you can live with a few spots then do so for now as the new one will go funny after a while anyway. The problem is caused by heat from the sun in the summer and from the exhaust that runs down right in front of that side of the dash! So the best thing to do is insulate the new one.

M.,

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 6:03 PM

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TRIP SCREEN

by

Mark, thanks for the info on the trip screen.If you could give me the number ill order one cos its so bad you hardly see how much petrol left etc.
( e-mail addresse included )

Posted on Jan 19, 2001, 8:45 PM

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