If you have questions, answers or comments about Toyota's RAV4, post them HERE.
PLEASE NOTE: This forum is in READ only mode. No messages can be posted here due to technical difficulites with Network54. Click HERE to visit the active RAV4 Forum!
I wanna RAV4 too!
by
Hey all you Rav Ravers out there!
I am moving to the San Francisco Bay area (Marin County) and I am looking for a used Rav 4. I know it's gonna be tough, because they are pretty now and scarce to find because everyone loves them. I'd apprecciate advice that anyone is gracious enough to pass my way.
Update: Friday, Oct. 22 1999: So far, we have yet to recover the missing messages. We are expecting an update from the data recovery experts on Monday or Tuesday. Sorry for the delay. Sincerely,
Steven Roussey
Network54 Corporation
http://network54.com/
Are you sure 4 seasons tires are good choice?
Our experience with our RAV-4 shown us that factory tires (Duelers) are very poor on snow.
It's ok for acceleration, but for turning or braking, they din't work (on ice or snow).
Maybe because we have 235/60R16. But, at second winter of use, we have installed 5 (1 for spare and rotation at next winter) Bridgestone Blizzak's. The improvement has been incredible.
And they are quiter than Duelers!
I think in nordic country, snow tires are a must.
I had the Bridgestone Duelers for 2 winters (including the 1998 Ice Storm which is when I pickedup the Rav(Jan 6/98 is a momentous day)- I live in Ottawa, Ontario so I'm familair with the "nordic conditions" you speak of. I really did not like the stock Bridgestones from day one - even in a little rain I could not trust the RAV to stop without sidding a little bit. Bridgestones were not even part of my plans as I searched for new tires - I went with the Toyo Tranpath based on the information I read on the www.toyo.com and www.toyocanada.com sites.
I probably would have purchased the Toyo Observe GP-4 (a true winter tire) if the tire dealer I purchased from could have got his hands on 4. So I went with what I considered to be the next best - the Toyo Tranpath S/U. [I also considered the Michelin LTX M/S, but the tire dealer said that I would find them just as "slippery" as the Bridgestones]
So far, and it's only been a few days - but I've been happy with the Toyo's. Today it was 7 Celsius, wet and raining when I drove into work at 5:30am - stopping on the Toyo Tranpath S/U's was a JOY versus the Bridgestone Duelers - I actually stopped without skidding! The road grip is GREAT!
I'm surprised that Toyota Canada has the Bridegstones as the stock tire, not only for the Rav but for the Lexus equivalent.
The Toyota dealership I purchased the RAV from has told me that no one else has "complained"/reported the problems I had and they attributed my skidding with the Bridgestones to be directly related to my style of driving. Well I do beg to differ with them on their option especially with what I've experienced with the Toyo's this morning.
These are my personal opinions based on my personal experience - maybe I'm not a great driver, but I also don't consider Bridegstone to have a "great" tire line-up.
And let's face it - the 215/70R16 tire size is NOT a size that too many tire manufacturers make, so I also question Toyota's decision for selecting that particular tire sizing.
I live in New Brunswick and have the very same complaint about the Bridgestones (215/70/16) on my 97 RAV4 L 4dr auto. Terrible in the snow, and need replacing at 48K. I tried to order a more aggressive tire in the Dueler AT 693 which looks very good and is supposed to be great in the snow, but I came to find out that Bridgestone cannot supply them for 5-6 months.
After checking with most major dealers in the province on what they had in stock in my size I settled on the Michelins. I don't suspect that they will be spectacular in the snow but they should be much better. They have been on order for 4 weeks and Michelin was supposed to deliver to my dealer last week, but not a word yet. Not one single dealer had anything other than OEM Dueler & Dunlop(which looks as bad).
There is a Toyo dealer that I can see from my office window, but I was going to pay $20-40 more per tire than for the Michelins as I went to inquire after reading your posts.
I am assuming Toyota went with this odd size to help with ground clearance, but it sure makes it difficult on us owners.
I'll post my opinion on the LTX M/S after a bit of winter driving.
Your view on tires is correct: Bridgestone, like Goodyear, is the General Motors of tires(in other words, pathetic). I'm guessing Toyota chose the Duelers because they were cheap(?). Either way, OE tires for the RAV4 are nothing short of disappointing. Toyo tires in general are excellent, much like Michelins.
hi, in june i bought a 99 Rav4L and it was equipped with the Goodyear tires listed above, i was wondering if they are good in the snow?, also i am at 3,000 miles and i LOVE!!! my car, actually its my mothers, but i drive it a lot to, but we have had absolutely no problems with it!, this is a nice vehicle!
If we choose Brigestone Blizzaks to install on our RAV-4 in winter, it is not necesserally because it's Bridgestone brand. The reasons are:
1- 235/60R16 on winter tire it's hard to find
2- Because we wanted NO unidirectionnal winter tires to be able to make the rotaion on 5 tires as explained in truck's manual.
Often in this size, tires are hi-performance tires (read: to be installed on sport cars), so they are unidirectionnals.
About factory tires, it's true they seem to be cheap and they don't perform very well on slippery road.Too,they are noisy and hard.
Your choice (Toyo) for our next summer tires will be considerated.
My 1996 2DR, 4WD, 5SPD consistantly gets 24mpg combined HWY/CITY. Too much traffic around here to get up to 70mph . . . most of my cruising is done at 60 to 65mph.
Gas mileage for my 1998 3dr 4wd 5spd is about 23-24 mixed driving. I live in Calif. While on a two week trip to Utah, the gas mileage jumped up to over 28 mixed driving and went to 32 on a long road trip. I drive about like Kelly-65 or so cruising.My motor home also got about two and a half more mile to the gallon once I bought gas out of California. That's how bad gas is out here in this state. I also took the RAV down into Canyonland National Park on a jeep trail that was posted for high clearance 4wd vehicles only-experieced 4wd operators strongly recommended. It had rained the night before and everything was muddy and slick. The car performed great and stayed with all of the other 4wds we saw down there. Got all full of red mud and sand, but it sure was a great ride.
Jack H.
I have a 98 4WD 5 Speed 4 Door with about 24 000 km (15 000 miles) on the clock. I do about 15 percent of my driving in town. The remaining 85 percent is at speeds between 50 and 75 mph, mostly at the high end of that range. I've been getting about 30 - 31 Imperial mpg. I guess that's about 24-25 U.S. mpg.
We have two RAV's (both 99 L's 4wd, auto) and have found that we average about 24 overall. On long trips we have managed to see 30, with 28.5 being about the median. I have noticed that my wifes RAV will get just a bit better on long hauls then mine (only difference is mine has the LSD option). Could be that I keep my foot into it a bit more!
But you would think a 4 banger is supposed to get better gas mileage. It's discouraging to see 6 bangers getting better mileage, and worse yet, my dad's ML430(4.3L 8 cylinder) gets close to 20mpg. Ouch!
my 98 rav (18000 miles) is becoming tempermental.it won't start. this has occurred 3 times now. all 3 times have been after i drove the car for 600 miles or so and let it sit for a few days. it happened again today. when it finally did start i got clouds of white smoke from the exhaust. it does not appear to be electical. any clues? thanks
Maybe you are flooding it? Dont push the gas pedal when you try to start it. The fuel injectiion system doesnt require any pumping of the gas pedal when starting.
Is there an aftermarket rear axle LSD that can be fitted to my 1998 RAV4 5 door? The factory option is a Torsen LSD but I am told it is only available to suit a rear axle with disc brakes (i.e. only those cars with ABS), most (all?) non ABS RAVs have rear drums.
>> The factory option is a Torsen LSD but I am
>> told it is only available to suit a rear axle
>> with disc brakes (i.e. only those cars with
>> ABS), most (all?) non ABS RAVs have rear drums.
Sorry . . . I don't have an answer about installing LSD, but . . . for what it's worth . . .
My 1996 2DR has ABS with rear drums and . . . the LSD option in the US does NOT come with 4 wheel discs . . . so . . . the factory LSD option should be able to be fitted to a NON ABS model.
Andrew, my 99 L has the LSD option and it does NOT have discs in the rear. Am not aware of any aftermarket rear axle available. Sounds like a you should take a tour of some wrecking yards and see if you can get one off a totaled RAV.
Does anyone know whether the Rav4 type G comes with the TORSEN LSD as a standard feature or not?!
I can't prove it by looking under the car's platform.
just thought I'd share the joy of finally getting a Rav. Its a silver 98 soft top 4x4 manual with 5772 miles on it I got it for $16995 which I thought was fair enough because I would have been willing to pay more since these rare soft tops are so hard to find!!! Unfortunately, I won't be able to post any add ons for awhile since my accounts are totally drained...
Hi,
I know 96-97 rav-4 are pre-wired and almost ready to receive factory fog lights. But in North-America, they were not offered. Do somebody have a picture of a RAV-4 WITH factory fog lights?
Is it possible to order and to fit them on a Canadian model?
I already have parts number for the switch and relay who must be added and I have located wires.
Actually, they were offered for some time in the U.S. before being ousted from the options list. I purchased my new 96 RAV4 with the factory fog lights - the Hella 500 fog. They are drilled into the top surface of the front bumper.
You can purchase Hella 500's anywhere, but I highly recommend stronger ones. Almost any light can be drilled into the RAV4's bumper, and I recently replaced the Hellas with PIAA 520s in the same drill location.
As for a picture, it's coming soon. Good luck on your lights.
The reason that you cannot use fog lights with high beams is that in many states it is illegal to have more than four headlights on at once. Therefore, if your two headlights are on and your two foglights are on, your foglights must go off when your two high beams come on.
I'm not sure why they don't allow you to just have fog lights and not headlights though, I've seen many cars that do allow it.
Yes . . . just more silly laws. In fact . . . the reason Toyota discontinued the RAV4 factory fog light option was because some state laws do not allow fog/driving lights (except for off-road use) to be mounted more than a certain height from the road. The TOP of the RAV4 bumper is too high. Personally, when I have my HIGH beams on . . . I like the added light from my fog lights :-)
Regarding why the factory wiring only allows the fog lights to be on when the headlights are on . . . I don't think this is legal issue . . . it's probably because they simply share the same electrial circuit.
I think it's normal the fog lights work only on low beam. All car I have seen with factory fog lights (my Dakota included)work like this.
Fog lights are supposed to help in low vision situations (swow, fog, rain). If they work with high beam, high beam will reflect on snow, fog etc. and the vision will be lower.
We own a Rav-4 4 doors 1997 and after the first complete winter of using, some very disturbing rattles appered.
The BIG rear door makes noise on the support (bottom left) et we must keep it well greased to avoid noise. The rubber of right rear door squeak a lot.
And a kind of plastic noise is appeared in the dash (it seems to be near of winshiedl air duct).
Some visits to our dealers didn't improve anything.
It's a Canadian model and you can see it on this site (#127).
Somebody else has these kinds of trouble?
Do you have some solution?
Regards,
Joel
I've heard the rear door can be adjusted. Qustion your dealer about this.
Concerning the dash rattle . . . do you think it's possible something might have fallen in the vent? Maybe you can access the area from under the dash . . . the problem here is . . . once you start tearing things apart to get at the source . . . you end up creating more rattles :-(
Sorry . . . the only other suggestion I have for the dash rattle is . . . turn UP the stereo ;-)
Adjusting the door seems to be the right thing to do. If that costs too much, try using talcum powder on the rubber seal. (Yes the stuff you use for babie´s bottoms.) That worked OK on the door seals of my old Land Cruiser that had a lot of flex built in.
I've heard a rumour that Toyota released the 1997 RAV4 earlier than it intended in order to compete with the Honda CRV. Has anyone heard anything about this?
I've never heard that one. Actually . . . the RAV4 first appeared as a final production model in Japan, back in 1994 and it was first released to the US market in February of 1996. (If you notice . . . there is a link in the left frame of this site, showing the 1989 RAV-Four Concept vehicle.)
I don't know when the Honda CR-V first appeared, but I always thought it showed up AFTER the RAV?
The RAV definitely was released before the CRV. The first article I read on the RAV4 was in Consumer Reports shortly before purchasing mine (in May of 1996). It spoke about Honda trying to rush production of their CRV to compete with the RAV4, not vice versa. At that time, the only vehicles on the market they had to compare it to were the Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick, the Subaru Outback and (don't ask me why) the Jeep Wrangler.
I think that article would have been in like the April or May 1996 issue of Consumer Reports, if anyone wants to try to dig it up.
I think Honda had the CRV concept first, but the production of the Rav 4 started before the CRV.
Honda is always thinking of things, but they never make them.
Some owner's have expressed their amazement with the RAV4's power... others have complained(me especially). I guess if the terrain is flat, the power is adequate, but hills and inclines are a joke. You do the math: over 3000 lbs, 127hp @5400, and 0-60 in over 11 seconds.
As Woody says . . . the RAV is no race car . . . but . . . it also depends on what configuration you go with. The 2DR 2WD 5SPD is quite a bit peppier than the 4DR 4WD Automatic.
My 2DR 4WD 5SPD, does "OK" for me. I am occasionally disappointed on the highway, when I'm unable to out accelerate the competition ;-) but in most cases, it's my fault for not dropping down a gear.
Regarding hills . . . I'd say the 5SPD has a definite advantage over the automatic. I don't have any problems with hills and inclines, even when towing my popup camp trailer (1000lbs.) I'm able to keep up with (and even pass :-) the main flow of traffic.
I have found that the RAV's can be best described as having adequate power, but you will not win any drag races. We regularly drive ours through high mountain passes (live in the Northwest- we have real mountains!) and using the kill switch for the overdrive, we scoot pretty well up the hills. Actually, we have passed many a CRV while climbing <grin>!
My first car back in the 60's was a '61 V.W.beetle with 40 horsepower.My RAV is a powerhouse in comparison. However, my RAV is a slug compared to the new 2000 Avalon that my wife and I bought last weekend.
I find the RAV adequately powered for my type of driving and I enjoy driving it.
I have a 96 Rav 4 automatic 2door and it is pretty quick for a 2.0 4cyl, but it's no sportscar. For the price, it is fast enough.
The CRV's top speed is only 94mph.
Real world performance is slightly different. I took my RAV4 over 100mph a couple of times, but try holding any speed above 90mph! Any slight incline will kill high speed attempts. That's something a 146hp CRV doesn't have to worry about. And for the same price, you could get the new Celica GTS that comes with a 180hp VVTL-i(Variable Valve Timing and Lift with Intelligence) engine. That's power for the price.
I suppose I didn't word my question very well. I absolutely plan on using synthetic oil, the question is when to start using it in a brand new engine. I've heard that synthetic lubricates so well, that the engine parts will not have proper friction to break in properly if synthetic is used too soon. I've used synthetic in my wifes Honda...now over 115,000 miles, and it runs like new. I started using it at 10,000 miles, which was 4 oil changes later in the Honda (I change oil OFTEN). Should I wait till 10,000mi to switch to synthetic in the Rav? Thanks for the previous responses.
Bob I also use the synthetic oil in my Rav. I have been to a few racing events and the word there is that one should not use synthetic in a new motor because the tolerances are very tight in a new motor and synthetic will not allow higher temperatures to be achieved for proper break-in. Keep in mind that these are racing motors...production motors like the ones in the Rav do not have such tight tolerances and will most likely be ok to use synthetic. The word from most companys that produce synthetic is that it is ok to switch over to synthetc oil AFTER your first oil change. This may be just a "cover you butt" clause they put in there for legal reasons.
Thanks Steve, your info was helpful. My first few oil changes occur very soon, just stuck in the past I guess. Maybe I'll wait till the second change, probably at 1,000 miles. Thanks again for the help.
I used synthetic at the first oil change and now every 10000 km as per my owner´s manual. I figure that the "worst" thing that could happen is that breaking in takes somewhat longer.
That could be a drawback in racing where you probably want peak performance instantly and have no intention to keep the car for several years.
The dealer is recommending using synthetic oil at the first oil change. This sounds too early to me, don't the parts need to break in together...aprox 10,000 miles before putting in synthetic? Thanks for any help.
Synthetic motor oil is better, period. The more you change any type of fluids, whether it be engine oil, transmission oil, brake fluid, etc. the better it is for your vehicle. Mix in the cost, and that's another story.
My friend owns a Porsche 911 turbo, and he changes the engine oil with synthetic every 1500 miles. Then again, my dad has a Mercedes Benz ML430, and he follows the engine diagnostics, which told him to change at 9,000 miles.
Bottom line - how much do you love your car and how much are you willing to pay?
I agree with Woody. Synthetic works better! I use synthetic motor oil and transmission oil and get easy winter starts and good hot weather lubrication. Gas mileage improves somewhat and as gas prices now climb above one US $ a litre (approx quart) here in Sweden any improvement feels worth while.
I don´t know US prices, but here synt motor oil can cost anything between 11 and 48 US$ for the four litres (approx 4 quarts) needed. It pays to shop around and to buy when there are special prices. All brands I have seen meet Toyota´s specs, but if you are in doubt check the text on the bottle with your RAV´s Owner´s Manual.
My friend owns a Toyota Tercel with about 153,000 miles on it. The Tercel also has a 2.0 same size as the Rav 4. That thing keeps going with the cheapest maintence and neglect he can give it.
Bottom line: Toyota's can touch it out if you can't love it all the time.
I heard that someone made a header for the RAV4 (3sfe engine). Does anyone know who makes this? I could be mistaken, but I thought TRD used to make one.
98-2000 already have welded 4 into 1 stainless header factory installed?
by Geert
I've briefly looked at a 97 exhaust and 99 exhaust and the 97 appeared to be cast iron, while the 99 (would be same for 98 and 00) appears to be a welded 4 into 1 stainless steel header (about as good as you could ever get) factory installed. I think the redesigned exhaust on the 98 on up was part of the effort to get an additional 9? HP out of the existing engine. The 97 and 99 also have some other differences such as the precatalytic converter location, so I don't know how easy it would be to swap the two, or how much benefit you would get, if any. It wouldn't be a noticeable difference I don't think, unless you were adding a turbo or supercharger and were redoing the entire engine and exhaust.
I have looked into this, at least for my '97. You can't get headers because the cat sits right in the middle of the headers. I think this is done so that the heat from your engine will help the cat. So if someone made heades for the Rav they would have to also have a cat, or it would have to be moved. They might have headers for the 3sfe engine but the way the Rav's engine sits in the bay(leaning backwards), I don't think the header would work without major modifications.
I have been told that I need to change the brake fluid on my RAV4 every 2 years. I have never heard of this with any other car that I have owned? Has anyone else heard of this?
Yes, it is a good idea in any car. The brake fluid absorbs moisture and can actually start to boil if too much water is present and you brake hard. Then you have no brake action. Also, water corrodes the working parts of the brake system ending in an expensive repair - admittedly after several years. If done at a regular service, the cost is in the $ 10 region.
My RAV had a slack seat belt spring. This was a bad thing because the belt got stuck at the door sill, the interior light stayed on, the battery went flat and at one memorable occasion I could not start the vehicle.
I followed a tip and massaged the belt by pulling it all the way out abuot 10 times. Presto! it works quite well. You still have to be careful but no more than with most other makes.
Speaking of batteries . . . I probably shouldn't even post this here . . . because it really makes me look stupid . . . but . . . I had to replace the battery in my 1996 model a couple weeks ago. The original battery would occasionaly not want to turn the starter over in the morning. I purchased a new battery at Sears . . . was running short on time . . . trying to do a quick swap over before work . . . and I hooked the damn thing up BACKWARDS :-( The terminal posts were not clearly marked . . . plus . . . the design and location of the terminal posts were just the opposite of the stock battery. No damage was done to my RAV, other than blowing the EFI fuse and the big 100 amp fuse on the positive battery cable! Took me awhile to locate exacty what fuses were blown. The EFI fuse was easy to figure out . . . as the engine would turn over, but it would not start. The tachometer, speedometer, radio, brake lights, turn signals were all dead, but the head lights and four way flashers still worked. These were all related to the 100 amp fuse. If you ever have to change this fuse, just a word of warning . . . it's bolted in from the back side, so you have to tear apart the entire fuse housing :-(
Hello all. Does anybody have any favorite waxing tips or techniques? I just washed, polished, and waxed our '95 VW and, for a first-time waxer, I think I did a decent job. There are, however, a new noticeable (swirls or marks) areas that can be seen in certain lighting conditions.
I used Meguires' wash and polish, and then Turtle Wax wax which I applied with their throw-in applicator pad. After waxing, I wiped with a terry cloth towel until it shined.
I would like to do the same to my RAV4 next and was wondering what other people did and how they did it. How much wax? How long of a wait for it to dry? How to you buff it?
Thanks!
If you have a metallic paint job wash with a fairly mild detergent and then use some suitable solvent to remove tar spots. A -95 with no wax job seems a long time and the paint can be a bit oxidized if it´s not metallic which has a clear top coat. If not metallic, you can use a special cleaner with some rubbing action to clean and polish the paint before waxing.
Apply wax as per direction on the container. Let dry as per direction. It helps to do a limited area at a time, say 3-4 square feet or so.
They have by FAR the best wax I have ever seen. It is easy to apply and looks GREAT. It is, however, fairly expensive, and available mail-order only. But DAMN it makes the car look good. You apply it with a simple cotton towel (or their applicator), and buff it off with a cotton towel. All by hand. Doesn't leave swirl marks or anything. You can even apply it in mild sunlight (although even this stuff doesn't work well if the paint is hot to the touch). It's a liquid wax so it's much easier to put on than turtle wax or whatever. It lasts a good while too, and the more coats you put on, the better it looks and longer it lasts.
There are also a number of other Zaino products, one is a rubber conditioner (for tires and weatherstrips) that doesn't break down the rubber like armorall, a glass cleaner (with a mild abrasive, removes those irritating waterspots!), a detergent for washing your car, plastic conditioner, leather/vinyl conditioner, etc. They also have a special wax that removes / hides swirl marks in your PAINT from overzealous buffing with a machine.
I haven't tried all their products but I have liked every one that I have tried. And I've heard only good things about the others.
How much wax to apply is up to you, depending on how much you work out ;-) I had no problem taking off liquid based wax, even when applying gobs of it in sections. The hardest and most protective wax, carnauba is another story. Foolishly reapplying the applicator for each section of the RAV, the coating was so thick that my arms almost fell off during removal.
Depending on the weather, let the wax set in at least 5-10 minutes. You'll know when it's ready when the surface turns dull whitish in color, and the feel is coarse and flaky.
I have one of those small buffing machines that I got from Costco, but after several uses, I suspect it the culprit of microscratches(I'm probably not using it right). Not sure of the best way to buff... Either way, good luck on your waxing!
I use Finish First. If you take the time to visit their web site . . . read the testimonials section. I agree with everything they say. It's the easiest to use and longest lasting wax I've ever used . . . and I've been waxing cars for over 25 years! I don't know of any other source than off the web to order the stuff. So far I've only made one purchase from their web site, but the transaction went very well.
Kelly, how long have you used finish first? Most of the testimonials are from people who have used it one or two times. My black 98 has some obnoxious swirl marks that I want to eliminate.
Carl - I fit in the catagory with most of the testimonial people. I've only used it 3 times in the past 2 years. This is not because the product lasts this long (though it is the longest lasting polish I've ever used), it's because I'm lazy . . .
Swirl marks have never been a problem on my Blue '96 model . . . but for what it's worth . . . here is a QUOTE from the Finish First web site -
"Finish First meets today's tough standard of automobile paint/finish care by using advanced technology based on synthetic polymers, similar to the synthetic paint on your vehicle. This high-tech formula contains no wax, silicone or Teflon. Finish First uses a synthetic emulsion cleaning agent to dissolve old wax, tar, road film, dirt and organic contaminants which cling to the paint even after washing. With this dissolving cleaning action, you will not create those "swirl" marks into your paint finish usually caused by organic wax cleaners. Not only will Finish First not cause swirl marks, the cleaning emulsion will dissolve the contaminants in old swirl marks caused by previous waxes and make them disappear."
Does anyone know where I can see sales statistics and demographics of the Rav4 in the past year, just wondering how many 4x4 soft tops were available in the U.S., cause its sure has been hard as hell trying to find one so far...
I would also like to see sales statistics for the RAV 4. To my knowledge, I own the only 4wd RAV soft-top with automatic in the Spokane, Washington area. My dealer found mine in Oct., 1998 while on its way from Japan to the port of entry in Portland, Oregon. It would be impossible to find a new one now. I saw the 2000 brochure this weekend and no soft-top is available.
I've seen sales figures for the RAV4, but they are not divided into catagories. Only the raw figures for units sold in the US. I'll try to find them again, and post some of the numbers here.
I was just looking at the 2000 (US) brochure, and as Cal L. says . . . no soft tops. Not even a 2DR hard top.
If you drove my RAV it wasn't very far, as it only had 2 miles on the odometer when I took delivery on Oct. 22, 1998.This was the lowest mileage new car I ever bought.
Hello Ted - I just tried using the AutoTrader web site to search for 2DR soft tops for sale. There seems to be several listed . . . I stopped after finding the first two. You can try your own search . . . they have over 200 RAVs listed ;-)Here are links to the two I found -
I'm thinking about getting one with 4WD. From my experience with other 4WD cars, I noticed that when I try to turn sharply with 4WD, the cars stops to move, and I have to put on the gas to make it move. Is this the same problem with the 4WD RAV4? Thanks in advance
Not sure exactly what you mean . . . but . . . my RAV4 is 4WD . . . and I haven't noticed any extra (more than normal) gas pedal pressure being required when turning sharply. The 5spd 4wd model has a differential lock button, that should only be used when on slippery surfaces or when you are stuck (or close to being stuck ;-) The 4wd automatic does not have this button . . . the differential in this model automaticly detects wheel slip and gradually locks the front and rear axles as the slip increases.
I think I know what you are refering to Chris. I drve a Jeep with 35's and once in 4wd and turned sharply it also stopped and needed more gas to go. The 4wd system in the Rav is different then those. You don't even feel the 4wd. There is no binding or gear wind up, or front end hopping like in the other type either.
4wd vehicles have (I believe) three differentials. One between the front two wheels, one between the rear two wheels, and one between the front and rear axles.
The majority of 4wd trucks (jeeps, etc) have a 2wd and a 4wd gear you select between. In 4wd mode, usually ALL differentials are locked, and every wheel turns the exact same amount. This causes difficulty when turning (some wheels are inside the curve, others are outside, in fact every wheel travels a different distance, but they all turn the same number of rotations, leading to wheel hop and skidding). This is why these cars have a 2wd gear, so that you can drive on roads without this problem, yet you've got 4wd for offroading or slippery conditions. That's also why you need more throttle to turn, basically you are dragging some of your wheels along.
A "limited slip" differential (sometimes called "positraction" for cars) is one that allows a certain amount of difference in how much the wheels turn, so that you don't have wheel skidding around turns, but you still have power to your other wheel(s) if one wheel loses traction. This is what the Ravs have between their front two wheels, and between their rear two wheels. However, the center differential is available as either locking (manually, you push a button) or limited slip (more expensive option). I believe either was available for both automatic and manual transmissions. If your center differential is locking, and you don't have it locked, if you lose traction to BOTH front or BOTH rear wheels you might not go anywhere, just spin those wheels. This is not the case with the center limited slip diff. However, if you do have your center diff locked, you may experience some wheel skip and more throttle needed when making turns (although not as much as with a jeep, since the front and rear diff.s are still limited slip).
So, basically, the answer is NO, most Ravs will NOT experience the difficulty turning that some 4wd vehicles (mostly trucks) do.
As an interesting factoid, I believe all Subarus have limited slip differentials (often this is called All-wheel drive instead of 4-wheel drive).
The basic distinction is between full-time and part-time 4wd.
Older jeeps have part time 4wd and when engaged (must be on a surface that allows some wheel slip), forces the front and rear AXLES to turn at the same speed. Effectively there is a 'locked' centre diff. However individual wheels on each axle can still turn at different speeds, hence being stuck in off road situations that lead to one front and one rear wheel in the air spinning but no forward movement. The individual diffs on each axle are 'open' if the above happens. A limited slip diff (often an option or standard on larger 4wds and only on the rear!) helps prevent getting stuck by limiting different wheel speeds across an axle. I think you are confused with diff locks, usually an expensive aftermarket option (ocassionally a factory option)that does lock individual axle diffs forcing both wheels on an axle to rotate at the same speed.
The RAV4 always has an open front axle diff and an option of a rear axle limited slip diff (not a diff lock). The centre diff is open most of the time (hard surfaces) as in all constant 4wd cars. In manual trans RAVs it can be locked for off road use, in efeect converting it to 'part-time' 4wd. You may need extra accelarator when turning. On auto trans RAVs the centre diff is as you say. I am not aware of aftermarket axle diff locks for RAVs, there is certainly no factory option.
I was apparently misinformed... So which is the factory option for limited slip, center axle or rear axle? And front axle is always open? That's dissapointing, I'm glad I didn't pay extra for the 4wd option then.
Not meant to spam another site Kelly but just thought it may be useful to inform those that don't know the differences in 4wd/awd.
Check it out pretty informative and easy to understand.
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/
I posted a message a few weeks back about discolouration on my RAV's doors. It turns out it was weathering of the paint which had also led to a spot of surface corrosion on one of the doors. The point is to check the black door frames of your RAVs. Mine is only 18 months old and I got all four door frames re-painted under warranty. Catch it early whilst you can - I'd hate to have to pay to repaint four door frames out of warranty.
235/70-16, radius=14.45", might work, possibly needs lift kit and/or flattening of lip of hump on lower fenderwell.
205/80-16, radius=14.45", successfully fitted on RAV, no rub at all.
225/75-16, radius=14.65", cannot be used with stock suspension as it rubs on lower wheelwell hump; lift kit and hammering of hump could help, but so far no-one has tried it.
As you can see, a radius of 14.45" in the 205/80-16 works just fine, but the width of the tire also affects what will rub when the wheel is turned, so that this same radius in a 235/70-16 may require (and the 225/75-16 WILL require) a lift kit or modification of the hump that sticks out from the lower wheelwell behind the front wheels. This hump is covered by a thin plastic cover that can be cut away or removed, and the metal lip underneath that forms the hump can be hammered flatter with a hammer. I haven't done it, but I figure that an extra 1/4" clearance could be obtained by hammering without affecting the body. God knows that I and lots of other people have shaved away at fender wells on lots of cars to successfully allow bigger tires or lowered suspensions. The Michelin LTX M/S is at or near the top of nearly every test, and should be an excellent tire for the dual-purpose nature of the RAV.
I've read road tests that varied from 9.6 to 11.2 seconds for 0 to 60mph and 1/4 mile times from 17.1 to 18.4 seconds. I guess it depends on the driver. These tests were with the 1998 127hp 4WD 4DR model. I don't know if they were automatics or 5SPDS.
No way... I've got a 2wd auto and my 0-60 was like 16 seconds... That was with my foot on the floor the whole way. I mean, there was a second person in the car with me, but still... An extra 200 lbs (probably not even that much) can make a 5 second difference?
Not only does it depend on the driver, but also the RAV4 itself and driving conditions. No one vehicle is identical(because of building tolerances), and certain environmental conditions favor faster times. Bottom line, getting a 4D 4WD RAV4 auto or manual below 10 seconds in 0-60 is impossible. Expect high 10s at best and mid 11's for 0-60 times.
I asked at the Toyota dealer here in Cyprus for Toyota type T fluid and they told me that they themselves get their fluid from other oil manufacturers (type Dextron II I believe).
So there is no way I can get hold of this Type T fluid. Therefore I am desperately trying to find out what equivalents are available so that I can change the ATF without the possibility of doing any long term harm to the automatic transmission.
Any information is greatly appreciated. Even an email address where I can get the official opinion of toyota.
Well . . . since nobody is answering you . . . I will say that I've heard from quite a few RAV4 owner's who have switched to the PIAA SuperWhites. I personally don't have them . . . so I don't know the part numbers . . .
If you browse through the "Owner's Gallery" . . . you will find several owners who have them.
I can say . . . DON'T waste your money on the BLUE tinted bulbs. I tried a pair for awhile in my own RAV . . . but was disappointed in the amount of light they put out . . . and ended up putting my stock bulbs back in!
I know that the 215/70/16 tires are standard. The tire dealer says that the 225/70/16 will work just as well. Are there any potential problems with the slightly larger tires. I am looking at the Winter Dueler DM72.
Before we switched to this TRIAL FORUM format, tire sizes had been a pretty common topic on the old forum (link at top of this forum). Ralph Becker, the keeper of the RAV4 FAQ page, has promised that he will be adding a TIRE SIZE section to his FAQ page, in the near future.
If you want, you can browse the old RAV4 Forum archive pages, or you can start with this Arhive Thread. In this thread it is said that the 225/70/16's will fit with no conflicts.