With less than three weeks before trout opener in AP (Division 15), now is a good opportunity to review known fish handling techniques to help improve survival rates of released fish. These were posted last year on the forum, and can be applied to all species, including Charr (Lakers/Brookies). Like most on AA, including lurkers hopefully, over a full season I release aprox 90% of the fish I catch.
Maintaining a high percentage of catch/release is especially important with lakers/brookies due to their slow growing season, limited numbers, shrinking and sensitive habitat, increased fishing pressure, etc. Despite our best efforts though there's always a percentage of released fish that don't survive, unfortunately a drawback to the sport (as it stands now anyway). To help improve the survival odds here's a list of standard release techniques to employ:

1. Keep the fish in the water as much as possible and handle them gently.
2. Reduce handling that removes the slimy protective coating on fish.
3. Don't use any type of 'fish' glove - use bare hands.
4. Do not squeeze or touch the gills. Grasp the fish just behind the gill covers.
5. Do not put hands in or around eyes or inside their gill cover.
6. For panfish and smaller bass, it is best to grasp the fish by the lower lip.
7. On larger bass, a belly lift is the best lift that can be employed. The belly is literally cradled in the hand allowing for support to the fishs organs and reduces excessive pressure on the head and jaw of the fish.
8. Use long-nose pliers to remove the hook quickly without tearing or injuring the fish. If the fish is hooked deeply, cut the line and leave the hook in when the fish is released.
9. Never put a fish that you may release on a stringer, use a functional livewell or release the fish immediately
10. Unless the fish is caught below the thermocline, bring the fish in as quickly as possible to reduce the risk of adrenaline build-up, which can be fatal.   If the fish is caught below the thermocline, give the fish ample opportunity to adjust for the pressure changes when coming up (e.g. bring the fish in slowly) and release the fish as soon as possible. 
11. Use a good quality net, as these help reduce the risk to yourself and fish should it begin to thrash about.  It also allows one to subdue the fish easier and maintain it in the water to prevent drying and harming the coating.

More here:
http://mdc.mo.gov/fish/guidelines/
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/fw/fish/ethics/handle/release.html
http://www.mnr.gov.on.ca/fishing/catrel.html

Barbless hooks
From the reports I've seen the jury is still out regarding improved fish survival rates caught with barbless versus barbed hooks. There has been studies done and both barbless/barbed survival rates in released fish (smallies/largies) fell between 91-93% (ironically some studies indicated a higher survival rate in the barbed caught/released fish). More research is obviously needed across different species/hook types/etc in order to make more conclusive statements. But barbless do reduce damage to the fish's tissues (lips/throat), help improve release times and reduce the risk of damage to yourself and others, including pets/wild animals. I personally don't pinch my barbs down except where posted - Bowron Lakes BC, Newfoundland Rivers, etc. When I've used barbless, there's a definite increase in the amount of 'long distance' releases, which is a good thing for the fish. Currently I would not be against a barbless policy in APark, should it ever come to pass.

More here:
http://www.flyfishingjacksonhole.com/turck/fishing_barbless.htm
http://dnr.wi.gov/org/es/science/inventory/TroutHooking.pdf
http://www.performanceflyrods.com/barbless/barblesshooks.html

Good stuff. I like barbless because it's easy to unhook, both fish and people. Unhooking people is a major PITA, especially on trips.

Just like fish, if you hold the hooked person underwater for a few minutes they'll quiet down and stop thrashing about...making hook removal easier for you!

For trout fishing I almost always go barbless. Their mouths are so much softer than Bass or Pike and I find it really does much more damage on them when the barb is on.

SM, when releasing, should one not craddle the fish in the water until it swims off freely? I find people drop the fish back in the water way too soon. I will take a long time with a fish if need be to ensure that it when it swims off it is doing so with strength. If it cannot, this is the fish that I keep. But I release 95% + of my fish.

LMAO Thanx PaPaddler I've never tried that technique before

Does it work with dogs ??

Note to self:

do not irk PaPaddler.


LOL



Barbara

hehe

AP - If the fish is in a weakened state after removing the hook then I do cradle it gently under the belly or by her tail til she has the strength to swim off on her own. On the rare occasions where she doesn't recuperate (e.g. swim off on her own) within a minute or two then it's kept for the pan.

I generally don't have issues with fish taking baits deep as I never use stand-alone worms/minnows in the open water season. I may tip a spinner or jig with a bit of worm if I'm trout/perch fishing, but that's it. If a fish has swallowed a crankbait real deep, depending on the amount of tearing that occurs when dislodging it, I may have to keep that one for the pan too. But these are rare occurences. I personally don't leave non-single hooks in a fish, I always remove the lure - likely the fish will die if u leave a lure stuck in or close to its esophagus or gills.

SM,

In order to minimize release problems I only use single hooks. Usually #6 or 8 size baitholder style. All my spinners/spoons/plugs have the trebles cut off and are replaced with single hooks. If a speckle takes one deep I carry a set of mini side cutters.I just cut the shaft. Its said the hook will dissolve over time. In catching 7 fish I might have to do this as many as 2 or 3 times.

PS I have caught a speckle with a hook in its mouth. Big long shaft thing at #4 or larger.

"Just like fish, if you hold the hooked person underwater for a few minutes they'll quiet down and stop thrashing about...making hook removal easier for you!"

Just about spit my coffee all over my screen!

Anon - I've caught a number of brookies in the past with aberdeen and snelled hooks still lodged deep in the fish's mouth as well, with an inch or two of mono afixed indicating cut line. As long as it's not stainless steel the hook should rust out from the fish's own acids.
I was referring to leaving lures (e.g. stickbaits like Rapalas) stuck in their mouths. At close to $10 bucks each these days + the problem a fish would have in swallowing food with such an obstruction in their mouths I don't leave them in. If a fish is or has bled a fair amount, indicating gill damage, these are generally goners as well. I still attempt to revive 'em, but chances are they'll end up in the pan. The treble in the gullet or profuse bleeding may happen to me a 1/2 dozen or less times in a year, so it's a very low occurrence.

I don't switch the trebles on these hooks to singles, unless I'm using flutter spoons - and most of these come with single hooks. I've used singles on crankbaits but in my experience the percentage of hookups is poor compared with sharp trebles.

SM,

Its usually trying to extract a deep hook that causes bleeding.Especially if its barbed. But any deep hook I pretty much cut. I also used to run some mono leader from the spinner .This makes cutting all the easier.
Trebles on lures make extraction all the more complicated. Sure you will lose the odd fish because of a single hook lure, but its a donation to the fish population you're making. You'll notice many fly in operations went to single hook fishing only - decades ago.

Single barbless hooks, artificial flies or lures only, and forceps for extraction are the only way to go for the benefit of the fish you plan to release. No live bait please!