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Follow up to the PreV buckle and strap request

June 2 2008 at 7:43 AM
Nick  (Login sqrl)
from IP address 198.166.51.63

This is a follow up pictorial to the PreV straps and buckles request
I have TWO types of PreV steel buckle

Two examples of one – on black straps with single keepers (they came to me as 201A straps, but could have been from Slytech designs) – followed by an original 201A buckle (the strap was replaced by Dirk), a PAV 0098 buckle and a brushed Dirk buckle (my favourite brown shark).

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It is clear that Panerai and the logo fonts are finer compared to the 201A and PAV 0098, but not like the rougher thin etching on Dirks. The 201A and PAV 0098 buckles are the same as the one on a thin long 201A strap in the pic below (I no longer have this for a close-up). The thin 201A straps were made by Ornil.

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So, there are at least 2 types of PreV steel buckle – but the situation may be more complicated, from information I pieced together some time ago from posts by Maurits, Dirk and Yves :-

PAVs 0090, 0091 and 0099 were made by Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli in 1995-1996 and PAVs 0093 and 0098 possibly by another company in Milan (suggested by Yves). They had a fixed and sliding keeper (“the 90/98 and 99 straps were all produced in early 1995 for the aftermarket demand through Panerai's Italian dealer-network - that's why they choose to fit the straps with a second fixed loop for more versatility”).

The original batch of 24mm preV steel buckles was running out by 1995, so that the PAV 0093 and 0099 used 22mm Mare buckles. However, new 24mm buckles were approved when the go ahead was given for the Slytech project in 1995-6. New buckles were made from 316 steel, because the early buckle materials did not meet EEC regulations due to their high nickel content.

However, there may have been three black/beige stitch PAV 0098 versions :-

One was bought from Panerai PreV stock (“that Black SWP Calf with beige stitching - PAV 0098 - was a Stallone request after he purchased his first Luminor - probably a non-matching dial - while paying his first visit to the Cine-Cita studios in Rome”); one strap was made (possibly different manufacturer?) using early PreV buckles; one was made after the buckle manufacturer changed in 1997. This buckle had “longer arrow legs and larger "O" in the logo” and the font was “less sharp and precise than the OP Firenze buckles”. “Plus the tip of the strap was rounded, instead of pointed”.

This suggests there may be another buckle type, since the two that I have similar logo dimensions, although one type is finer.

The following picture comparisons are between preV PVD and PAV Rodiatura buckles on the PAV 0090 and 0099. Rodiatura is a galvanic process, not PVD, and the buckles mark more easily. It is also obvious that the 202A calf and the shark buckle are different and I am not sure why. Can’t be absolutely certain the buckle on the shark is original, or if additional straps were made as replacements – I would welcome seeing other examples.

PreV
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PAV
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The black/black straps and PAV 0099 are Vero Cuoio. My info is that the width of the Vero Cuoio stamp should be 39mm (hide pic plus words) and the "i" between the "O"s is a little elongated. Vero Cuoio straps have a “waffle” texture and central raised portion, whereas the Original Kodiak straps are flat. This is easier to see on the black than the tan PAV 0099.

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Original Kodiak stamps (PAV 0090, 0098), preV and Dirk Vero Squalo stamps - which one is backwards?.

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On the PreV, PAV (24/24) and Dirks, the double grooves just outside the stitches extend to the underside of the buckle end. This is not the case on the PAV 0099.

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PAV 0099
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They all have a double stitch in the top left corner (and luckily sometimes a PAM attached).

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The other point worth noting is that the keepers on Dirk’s straps are narrower than on PreV and PAVs. This may differentiate some of the earliest Dirk’s using left over OP stock buckles (and straps he replaced on PreV buckles) from original PreV straps. This can be seen clearly in the following picture.

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The middle and right sharks are Dirk’s.


Overall, this is what I have put together in my own head, so it could be as daft as some of my other ideas. I would certainly bow to the knowledge of people involved at the time, or who have seen a lot more straps over the years than me. Anyway, it was a pleasure to have some time to take pictures this Sunday. You see a lot more glue in macros than you might expect!

Nick / sqrl

 
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