So much has to do with conditions. If you can build in extra days, it helps, although that's hard to do with a guide who needs a schedule. The ideal thing would be to plan a 10 day vacation in the area, and then when you get there assess when your best 2-day weather window is within those 10 days.
Most of what made the route scary for me was that it had fresh and melting snow on it, making the rock slick. I wouldn't do that again, there or anywhere.