I'm heading for Granite in a couple weeks and was wondering about current conditions. I'm hoping to get by w/o axe and crampons this late in the summer.

Are you planning the "standard" route or the "new and improved" Southwest Couloir route?

We'll be going up the standard route as it sounds much funner than a bowling alley of scree in that couloir in Aug. I'll for sure bring my axe if there's no recent beta on the snow bridge, although lugging my steel crampons up there for a short snowbridge crossing will probably be overkill by mid-Aug.

Although I was there a bit earlier in the year last year, the look of disappointment on the group of 5 that had to turn back because they didn't bring crampons was pitiful.

If you get good, dependable beta, and live nearby, take the chance. Just don't count on the local ranger's advice to be the best.

Good luck!

I summitted Granite Peak on Aug 5th. Here's a conditions report.

There are several snow fields on the lower east ridge before the snow bridge. If you know how to self arrest, all you need is an ice ax. Neither crampons or rope are needed to traverse the snow fields. The weather is warm enough now that the snow is consistently soft. You can leave your ax once past the snow bridge. It's not needed above that point. Obviously, use your own judgement in every situation.

Also - we had afternoon storms every day. Be on the trail by 5am and back to the saddle by 3pm if possible.

Good luck!

George Naxera
aka Alpinist on SummitPost

My wife and I did the Southwest couloir route on 8/22/09. At that time there were four different sections in the couloir that had ice/snow and needed ice axes and crampons to safely climb through them. A good rock climber could have bypassed these sections by climbing class 5 rock. These sections may have melted out some by now. Several people were turned away disappointed becauses they did not bring the nesessary equipment. The afternoon heat brought down some scary rockfall as we descended so try to get an early start. This route was an incredible adventure with fantastic scenery but it was not a cakewalk. Enjoy and good luck.
BS