I spent my morning tweaking with the gun to try and get the pull down. When I first bought it, I thought something was wrong with it cause the trigger pull was literally over 15 lbs. I have never experienced a trigger this stiff in all my life.

I took it apart the first day I had it and removed the large spring behind the trigger. This immediately reduced the pull weight to about 8 to 10 lbs?

Still much to heavy for my likings though.

Anyways, I took it apart today, ground down one third or so, maybe a hair less, of the sear height. Then I fouled down the sear face, the edge of the sear where the trigger touches it, and both sides of it so that it wouldnt rub in the housing. I did this on a 600 grit stone. Once all surfaces were down to the point that it was smooth ( No divits or humps or voids ) I then polished everything to literally a perfect mirror sheen.

I replaced the sear spring with a cut down ball-point clicky pen spring. I cut the spring 1/8" longer than the stock sear spring due to its low resistance comparitively. Boy was it a son of a bitch though putting it back together getting the spring in and all.

Anyways, a quick over view of what I did, Ground down 1/3 of sear top edge, polished to a perfect mirror like sheen. polished the safety so it was smoother. Polished the part the sear engages on ( I guess its not called a hammer on air guns ? This is my first real pellet rifle, im more of a Savage 110 and Remington 700 series guy ) Also, I smoothed up the contact surfaces of the trigger as well.

Despite all my efforts, from the point where the trigger first hits real resistance, to where it breaks, is still at least a 1/8" of travel. It is not as smooth as any of my hunting,target,or bench rest ( Obviously) rifles. It feels "grabby" but at any rate, doing this reduced pull to about an 1/8" or actual resistance pulling before it breaks. It appears to break at about 5 to 5 and a half pounds.

The guys who are getting hair triggers with nearly no creep, I would like to know what your doing??? I would be afraid to bring the sear down any more. I already ground off almost a third of it. And any more would seem to be to the point that for this trigger design, it would become unsafe.

I can not, in any way get hte pull lighter. Im using a clicky-pen spring, and everything is literally polished to the point that it cant be smoother for the type of metal it is. So how the hell do I get the pull under 5 lbs ?

Any suggestions ?

If you're getting 5-ish lbs that's a huge improvement over stock. Good Job!!
Now you can get started on taming the powerplant.

If you've put Moly on those sear mating surfaces then you've done all you can do.
(a moly source= http://www.airguns.citymax.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm)

With this gun you can't get a hair trigger that's safe (my opinion), because of the way the trigger releases. But mine has no take take up (I shimmed it out), is smooth to pull, and is in the 5lb range.

I can cock, load, release the saftey, and smack the butt of the stock with my hand pretty hard several times and it will not fire on its own. That's my safe trigger/sear test.

The 1000X trigger and gun has its limitations. Mine will never be perfect or have the fit and finish of my AirArms ProSport. But it made a great project gun. It's also light weight, accurate, easy to cock, and fun to shoot. I like my 1000X, warts and all.

Nice job! and thanks for sharing your experience. I'd agree that 5-6 lbs is quite good for the Daisy Winchester 1000x trigger set. I've heard one guy get down to about 4 lbs, but that's it. Have you heard of hair triggers for these? I'm still wishing for the 'drop in' magic replacement part that makes this a good trigger. Who knows? Not me, but Christmas is just around the corner!

what distances do you find yourself shooting this at? Using the stock "iron" sight?

The sears and triggers on these guns have a tremendous amount of side-to-side slop which increases the trigger pull weight. If you remove the slop, along with your other mods, you should get lighter, more consistent trigger pull.

Here's what I did:

Take your sear pivot pin to Home Depot and find some small (approx .35in diameter) thin brass washers that fit on the pin, not too tight or loose. They should rotate freely on the pin.

Polish the washers smooth w/ no burrs.

Coat them with moly and install them along the sides of the sear and trigger to remove side-to-side creep. Make sure everything moves freely and doesn't hang up or bind.

This will let the sear and piston surfaces that you polished to mate squarely and consistently and generally should improve the trigger.

Good luck

It will smooth out a little more w/ use.