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Trigger mods done on "new mechanism" Turkish 1000

January 10 2006 at 7:35 AM
Score 5.0 (1 person)
Martin  (Login hatsanmod70)
from IP address 198.54.202.210

 
Please forgive my terminology in places, I'm no gunsmith so I've described bits as I've seen them rather than by their technically accurate names.

My airgun is branded Hatsan Mod 70, as sold here in Johannesburg, I've gathered from the forum that it is the same gun as the Daisy model 1000. The trigger was really hard to pull when and I bought it, and as a result I found my shots were all over the target at 12m (40mm groups!). The local Hatsan distributor has been advertising "new improved trigger" in the local gun magazine, but I felt it was still excessively tight and couldn't be adjusted with the screw that goes through the trigger.

After reading about mods to the 1000s trigger on the forum I thought to take out my trigger mechanism and implement the mods described, but when I removed the mech it looked completely different to the pics I'd seen of other peoples trigger mechanisms posted on the forum. Apart from the sear, there is a pivoted piece that holds the sear up, as well as a pivoted lever between the trigger and the piece that holds the sear up. I wish I'd taken pics but I hope my descriptions are of some help.

I had to cut away a bit of the plastic trigger where the adjustment screw goes, because the screw wasn't long enough to reach inside the mechanism to make any difference. I suppose a longer screw would have worked, but then at 9pm we don't have too many shops open where I might buy ones, so I "made a plan" and cut away a little bit of the trigger plastic (about 3mm) to allow the screw to penetrate deeper into the mechanism where it can touch on the pivoted lever that pushes on the piece that holds the sear up.

I also polished up all of the contact surfaces on the metal parts that catch and rub on each other as you pull the trigger, by first using sandpaper and then a liquid product we use here for shining up metal ornaments called "Brasso", it left a highly polished surface (at least on the raised bits that were touching). I guess car polish would work just as well.

I cleaned off all of the factory oil and put in some petroleum jelly between the moving parts and reassembled.

I had to straighten out the cage that houses the mechanism parts because the sides were flared open and there was excessive side play on the parts.

I also replaced the long spring behind the trigger with a "click pen" spring.

There is a sight hole in the side of the mechanism housing where you can view the contact between the sear and the pivot plate it catches on, and I adjusted the screw through the trigger such that the overlap between the 2 metal surfaces is about 2mm.

I then tested it and boy, what a difference! Where at 12m I had previously been spraying pellets all over the target in 30 to 40mm groups (I'm not a very good shot!) I was now shooting sub-15mm groups. The trigger is very light, I haven't measured the pull with any device, but I barely have to touch the trigger and it fires, I even backed out the screw a few turns just to be safe, although with my first screw setting I loaded the gun and banged the butt on the floor a few times and it didn't fire "accidentally".

I wasn't at all impressed with the pieces of metal they used for making up the trigger mechanism parts, they are stamped out of about 1mm steel plate, and then they use 3 layers riveted together to make one piece 3mm thick. The steps between the layers where they don't quite line up are left as is, as are the rough surfaces on the edges where the metal sheared while being stamped out of plate.

One further mod I'd like to implement would be to polish up the end of the screw where it rubs on the lever that pushes on the other pivoted plate that holds the sear up (if that makes any sense). When I have a little more time I'll make a drawing from memory of the parts, I'm not up to stripping the gun again tonight for pics!

 
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AuthorReply
STUART BRANDT
(Login STUARTCBRANDT)
205.167.138.111

I TOOK MINE APART AND THE SPRING.

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January 11 2006, 5:39 AM 

HI I TOOK MINE APART and the spring went airborn into the next room did you have trouble getting the sear spirng back in.


Stuart Brandt you can call with the answer 14347990034

 
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Martin
(Login hatsanmod70)
198.54.202.210

Getting the sear spring in is easy

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January 12 2006, 12:47 AM 

Put the pivot plate that holds the sear up in first, and secure it with its pivot pin. Hold the trigger mechanism cradle such that you can now see the top of this pivot plate where the sear spring seats. Put a blob of grease on the spring seat. Stick the spring to the blob of grease. Put the sear in now such that the spring is trapped between the spring seat on the sear and the spring seat on the pivot plate.

You'll have to apply a fair amount of pressure with your thumb on the sear to try and compress the spring a little so you can get the sear pivot pin in place. I pushed the pin from one side while wiggling the sear into place with a small screwdriver through the pivot pin hole on the other side.

Sorry I can't call, I'm in South Africa, when its day here its night there, and our telephone service provider, Telkom (Hellkom) is very greedy.

 
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(Login Ricson1)
65.13.12.245

re sear spring

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January 12 2006, 2:06 PM 

Hey Martin ,the grease is a great idea, I wish I would have thought of it when I did mine.
You almost need 3 hands without your trick.
Thanks for the info.
Rick

 
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(Login scottgg)
71.195.82.55

I did a Hatsan/Winnie trigger like that too.

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January 14 2006, 2:41 PM 

I ground away a bit of the trigger which allowed the screw to go in farther. It works fine. Eventually, I went the route of getting longer screws.

 
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Martin
(Login hatsanmod70)
196.25.255.210

Long screw

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January 16 2006, 6:47 AM 

would have been best I agree, but surely not necessary after cutting away the trigger?

 
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Harlee
(Login hlm112833)
205.188.116.5

Winchester 1000 Trigger Screw

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January 28 2006, 6:27 PM 

Right now, the trigger pull on my new 1000 is OK, but I have noticed that the adjustment screw appears to be in all the way and I'd like to replace it with a longer one such as is being discussed here. I'm wondering, are the screws metric or SAE threads? Also, do you know what size the screws are, including the thread size, i.e. 8/32, etc.? I can re-tap it if necessary. Thanks, Harlee

 
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Anonymous
(Login rstrat)
216.49.117.8

trigger mods

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January 27 2006, 9:01 AM 

I have an 800x Turkish. The plastic trigger needed to go so I made one out of steel and polished everything. It worked better but I still wasn't happy so I redesigned the end where it contacts the sear. It is awesome - 1-2 lb pull. I may take some off to increase pull another lb or so. This gun is very accurate. I also made a press and disassembled the entire gun and cleaned and polished the piston and relubed with moly grease. It is now quieter and smoother shooting. This is a cheap gun that shoots like an expensive one. I shot my 1st squirrel with this pellet gun last week- now I'm hooked.

 
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