I just purchased this gun a month or so ago, and have been shooting the last couple weeks on and off. I can't seem to get consistant results from this thing... Today for the first time I got an inch group from about 25 yards away, with the iron sights after I noticed the scope was moving and took it off. Only problem is the knob for up and down adjustment will not click anymore, so the up and down will vibrate itself loose all the time. With the scope I can't seem to get the same results, with or without the same pellets. I have 2 different kinds of pellets, Copperhead Field points, and Crossman hollow points. I have modded the trigger a little bit but need to take apart and do more sanding down. Any suggestions?

Alan

The rings that come with these guns are no good, go with a real scope mount and it should solve your problems.

Get a longer trigger screw or drill and tap a sear engagement limiter screw and it will fix that trigger.

Your gun should group well, mine does it is most often a sight shifting problem

I had a set of rings that I took off another gun recntly. They are B-Square rings, with screws on each ring. I made shure to really crank down on the scope and the dovetail mounts yesterday when I put the scope back on yesterday. So the scope shouldn't move again...

Thanks,

Alan

In mine (made in Brasil) the dovetails where you mount the scope were really not 11mm, but 10mm, so this prevented the B-Square mount to really hold on firmly to the riffle. I fixed this bi putting a couple of layers of aluminum tape (not to be confused with duct tape) on the dove tail, then mounting the scope over the tape, and then cutting the tape so that it does not show with an X-acto knife.

I cannot get a consistant group at 20 yards, and wouldn't even bother shooting at anything at 30 yards... I hate to return it now and get a different gun after all the trigger work i've done to it.... =(

Alan

If the barrel was bent, you would still group your shots. They just would not be centered. A couple of posibilities:

1. Have you tried shooting with sandbags? Sandbags on a bench will always hold the gun in the same way, so it should tell you if the problem is the gun or the shooter. If the gun still does not group, then the problem is the gun; but if it groups, it is the shooter. These guns are VERY hold sensitive, meaning that if you hold the gun even slightly different from one shot to the next, you will get very different hits. My advice regarding hold, is to hold it loosely and let the riffle move around as it wishes.

2. Changing pellets (even same kind, but from different tins) will change the hit point. Make sure you use always premium pellets. I have had very bad results with the Crossmans (although I have read that they work for some people). Try the Beeman (I have succesfully used the crow magnums, FTS, silver ace, and the Kodiak Match - although these tend to have a steeper curve) or the RWS (Superdomes, SuperMag and Super H-Point); on my gun, these really helped improve accuracy.

3. Check the pellets. If the skirts are not perfect, the pellet will wobble on its trajectory, and make larger groups. Sometimes, the pellets in the tin are shaken, and lead being a soft metal, the tailes (and sometimes the tips) get slightly warped, ruining your shooting. Also, if when you handle the pellets, you find your fingers become dirty, you may want to consider washing the pellets by rinsing them in dish washing detergent, and then thouroughly rinsing them in water.

Regarding your scope, considering the strong recoil of this gun, you have to go for a one piece mount. If you are using a 2 piece mount, it will most likely move on you. Make sure also that the scope is Air Rifle rated. If you are using a gunpoweder rifle scope, that may be the cause (air guns recoil forward and back, where as firearms recoil only back, so the scopes are made to withstand different types of recoil, and airrifles can damage firearms scopes). Also check the dovetail on your rifle to make sure it is 11mm and that it is not less (it was 10mm on mine). If it's less, then you need to fix that (I just taped a couple of layers of aluminum tabe over the dovetails, and installed my scope over them; I then cut our the excess tape, and now you cant see any tape whatsoever). You can see my gun at http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1140834830/Pictures (complete with custom made aluminum trigger and all).

Thanks for all the suggestions and help you ppl have given, here is what I did.

I took the scope back and got a scope that said it was for an air rifle. I still have the scope rings that I used to begin with. I also used sand bags and did a bit of shooting at almost 20 yards, and also at 10 yards since it was very windy that day. My gun shoots a ton better now, but only if I barely hold the gun or set it in the bags. If I hold the gun like I would any other gun, my pellets start flying everywhere.... I mean everywhere!!!! I plan on purchasing better quality pellets in the near future as well. For a side note the silver bb's shoot better than the stupid copper one in a bb gun... =(

Alan

880 from walmart is both a pellet and bbgun, the spring winchester is pellet only or you could damage the barrel lol. Every RWS ive seen is pellet gun only.

Not in my "Pellet Gun".... I meant in a "BB Gun" when I was talkin about the bb's. I though I made that clear when I talked about bb's in a bb gun..

Alan

alhersch,

The reason this is happening is that the Daisy Winchester line, because of the strong recoil, are very hold sensitive. Let me explain what this means:

When you pull the trigger, the riffle starts to recoil immediatly because of the spring. The recoil goes first to the back (because the spring is pushing forward) and also in a twisting motion (as the spring uncoils). Then, when the piston finishes its travel, the gun recoils forward. While all this happens, the pellet is still in the barrel.

Because it is almost impossible to excert exactly the same strength in the same way shot after shot, every time you shoot you will affect the rifle in a tiny little different way, which will cause the recoil to move in a slightly different direction than the previous shot, and this, of course, will produce a different point of impact.

When you shoot with sandbags, the sandbags will ALWAYS excert a VERY SIMILAR (although not exactly similar) pressure on the riffle, and this will result in smaller groups.

In a firearm (which typically has higher muzzle velocities than an air rifle), you want to hold the gun as firmly as possible because the bullet will have exited the muzzle before the full effect of the recoil is felt. But in rifles such as these, the best thing you can do to counter the hold sensitivity is to very lightly hold the rifle when shooting, and letting it move freely from the recoil when you fire. This means that since you are not excerting any force on it, it will be far easier to replicate in recurring shots, resulting in smaller groups. It is important to note, however, that hand placement should be the same from shot to shot for this to be achieved. Also, keep in mind that when using this technique, if you zero the sights using sandbags, the sights will not be zeroed for shooting while holding the rifle, as the point of impact from these two will be different (again, as a result of hold sensitivity). Also, keep in mind that the zero of one shooter will almost never be the same as the zero of another shooter because of hand placement and arm lengths (which also affect the movement of the rifle).

This is why a lot of people say that firearms shooters tend to have a hard time adjusting to air rifle shooting.

In any case, I hope you all find this helpful.

Felipe

excellent comment felipe!

here are some other general comments on holds, etc that will apply to the Daisy Winchesters..

http://www.funsupply.com/airguns/springshoot.html

http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/11/improving-accuracy-with-spring-piston.html

http://www.tra.org.au/coaching/basics.htm