Would anyone have an exploded diagram for this gun? I did a tear down to clean out the factory grease and the seal is no where near as tight as I am used to. It is actually smaller than the tube
Is that common? The transfer port seems large as well at 0.160"
I did not like the unfinished spring ends so swapped the spring out for a Quest 1000 spring IIRC anyways one I had new unused and about the right length.
I sure like the way these guns are built. Seems to be accurate as much as I have shot it.
Trigger needs help, long and bit stiff, workable tho'
Thanks fellas for any help
Walter....

Available here.........http://webpages.charter.net/guru1/documents/index.html

Most Hatsans, are similar,.......there are a couple of variants to the trigger.

Winchester/Daisy actions are same as Hatsan actions. Well at least the thought process is the same, so you can extrapolate from there. Russ's guides are quite good at instilling confidence when you want to know what you are doing before you do it.

cheers GSNZ

I do indeed like the build and size. Now I want to harness that firing cycle and see what I can get out of it.
Walter....
BTW do all DAisy 1000s have the tophat?
Cheers

Would this be about what to expect? It is 25F today and I'm at 3500feet.
Need to play some more with the oring seal on my piston.
I'm thinking I need to crosshatch the compression cylinder so need to find something that will fit.
Cheers,
Walter....

and apply just enough crosshatch to retain some chamber lube.
O-rings are nice but can be a bit finicky sometimes. O-ring type, size, and seated and exposed depths all effect sealing capability and durability. Being able to retain some lube on the chamber walls should improve the velocity as well as the durability of the o-rings.

Russ S.

quadring to piston. Will chrony tomorrow.
Spent some more time on the bore with brush, hoppes, rags on a jag. Shooting into 1/2" at 10 yards offhand now with just dust in the trap.
Was unable to get my transfer port bushing out so will attack that another day.
I plan on making a new brass trigger with a first and second stage screw adjusters.

The sear(s) on this gun appear to be investment cast with rounded sear lips. Would it be advisable to grind that away?

Thanks Russ for posting. We need our spring gurus to stick with us eh :)
Regards
Walter....

you need to be careful doing this or the trigger can become unsafe.
My guide explains the trigger mods I have found to be both safe and effective on units based on the Turkish 1000 based guns.
To smooth up the pull a bit I believe in polishing the mating surfaces following the direction of movement when used. I don't go for a glass finish otherwise lube would not adhere. Speaking of lube, I keep it very minimal as too much will cause inconsistent performance.

It is too bad this line of guns doesn't have the large following or support that others enjoy. For that reason I think it is very important that we all help eachother out.

Take care,

Russ S.