I wanted to publically and enthusiastically thank Russ for his web information for the Winchester/Hatsan/Quest trigger. I have never done one before but I did this one, I had to! I bought a beautiful gun and only later realized the trigger was too heavy and too long a pull, etc. I came here, read the posts, found Russ's site and it was so accurate and understandable that even I could do it. It took about 2 hours - 30 minutes finding where the trigger went when I took it apart. But after I put it back together I could not believe the difference - outstanding! Thank you Russ for some outstanding trigger work and wonderful pictures/instructions..

knowing that these guides are useful and appreciated makes it worth the effort.
I am glad that I was able to help you enjoy your Daisy/Winchester a little more.

Let me know if you see any areas of the guide that could use some improvement.

Russ S.

After the trigger clean up and some further thought.

My trigger sear parts (3 of them) were all laminated parts made up of three stamped metals parts. None of the surfaces were smooth. I worked on them with 220, then 320 wet/dry paper. The plastic trigger I used the Dremel tool with the fiberglass cutting wheel at a moderate speed, so it didn't burn the plastic.

I wonder about the length of the solid pins. None of them are retained by anything but the sides of the stock. I was surprised they weren't put in with e-rings or some other type of retainer. I think I could find some of those finger washers that press on which would keep the pins centered? I also am thinking of adding some of those curved thin washers on the trigger pin to take up the side play?

Putting the trigger parts back together was my biggest concern, but the pictures from Russ's site did the trick. I used a broken ice pick, rounded off, to help center the parts, when installing the pins.

I used a wood 3/16 inch dowel for the "assembly pin" which pushed out easily when I reinstalled the trigger assembly. I cut three or four of them before I got the length right, seems like you need about an extra 1/16 inch sticking out each side.

I am building a spring compressor.

I am using some thin heat shrink on the rear sight stud to limit the movement of the sight from side to side. The hole in the pastic rear sight is a little too large and let's the sight move too much.

I want to mount a scope but the amount of recoil makes me think that the Winchester 1000X could destroy a scope?

The rear screw in the trigger guard can compress the wood stock and I am thinking of making the hole oversize, filling with epoxy and then re-drilling the hole. With the recoil of this rifle I expect all of the screws will loosen, frequently.

Is there an online site for the breech seal and piston seals?

Thanks to everyone for the advice and help!

Hi John,
Just a bit of info,........There are trigger group variants around that do have the "e" clips on the trigger sear pivot pins. Parts can always be a problem, so I sourced another model rifle as mine with the same trigger group to scavenge for parts. (so I thought) I was pleasantly surprised to find all pins with clips retaining them in place, and the length just wider than the housing.

Variants on trigger abound on the same design, as the stop sear spring was not a coils type but the same design as you would find on a clothes peg.

Its a great trigger modification Russ has given us, and I am working on a spare to slot in while I do some more experimentation.

These rifles are so under-rated.......(the basic design from Hatsan) and all mine are getting the upgrade gradually, the post mod results are truly astounding.

regards
Adam

Rather than adding shims to the sides of the trigger blade I would suggest drilling the pivot hole larger and bushing it with some copper tube. You can go oversize and use a larger pin too. By leaving the bushing a bit wider it will eliminate that side play of the stock trigger and reduce friction within the unit.
The problem with the plastic is that the friction of the pivot pin moving within the blade will eventually make the hole oblong. This will correct this.

Since the length and retention of the trigger pins is limited by the stock inletting, another option would be to peen over one side of a pin so that they can only be removed from that side. This would require less space and should work on all guns since there are variations in tolerances during production from one gun to the next.

I have used Barska and Powerline scopes on the D/W 1000 without any issues. As long as they are springer rated there shouldn't be any problem.

Nice tip on the rear sight by the way. I may have to add that to the next guide if nobody minds.

Russ S.

Hi Russ,....having worked my way through almost all my hatsan triggers and a few mates'....I have added a couple of touches that add some flexibility to the trigger mod.

I was searching for some screws to replace the adjustment screw, and stumbled upon carburettor screws with needle points,....put that in and its smoother. Less surface area means less friction.

While at it I tried replacing the second stage post detailed in your pictures with yet another screw, drilled down from above in the same position. I inserted another carburettor screw and now can adjust both stages for length and weight of pull. This trigger type has been introduced by the factory of late in their newer models, so I just rplace the standard screws with needle screws for lighter action and a more positive fit for the screwdriver tip.

The second screw installed in the place of the post/pin behind the 1st stage screw makes a hell of a difference in useability and adjustment for the rifle owner. One can now tune out any sins very easily while on the range, for the perfect trigger setting.

Hope someone finds this useful.

regards
Adam

More modifications that I have found useful.........

I made a custom brass trigger blade to drop in as a replacement for the plastic blade. I chose a flat straight design instead of a curved design. I thought that if I could get my finger firther down the blade it would increase torque for the same pressure or less. It works a treat and while taking a number of hours to make by hand, was not as hard as u would think after all for someone with limited skills and tools.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t7/nzafta/triggermod1.jpg

cheers
GS

I searched but couldn't find the referenced site.... can someone post a link to Russ' website/guides?

Thanks!

Sorry I missed this. Tune guides are here... http://webpages.charter.net/guru1/documents/index.html

 

Russ S.