Hi All,

I bought my 1000S at Wal-Mart 6 weeks (or so) ago. I immediately got turned onto air guns. I have several acres and can shoot right in my back yard. My wife doesn't object at all. Almost immediately I wanted to get a better scope for the air rifle. I bought a Leapers Accushot 3-12 X 44 mil dot scope. I also bought a pair of inexpensive 30mm rings to go with it. The scope is great. But I have been unable to successfully mount it. The pair of rings just didn't work very well. The scope was initially skewed untill I reversed on the rings. But they moved and didn't grip the dove tails at all well. I used the scope stop that comes with the rifle. It seemed to work OK. I replaced the pair of rings with a one piece mount. This mount attached much more securely. I was able to quickly zero the scope. But over several day and several hundred rounds I managed to essentially shear off the screw of the integral scope stop. So I tried to used the scope stop built into the scope mount. I first had to enlarge the hole on the rifle where the original scope stop screwed. I then managed to get the new scope stop installed. But initally I had inserted it too deeply and the air rifle wouldn't lock when cocking. I backed the scope out a bit until the air rifle would cock OK. Thing were Ok for about 50 to 100 shots, the scope started creeping backwards again. I had sheared off the tip of the new scope stop pin!

I think that I would have had less problem if I had bought a lighter compact scope. Then there would be less force to contend with. Or perhaps $100 scope mount would have these problems. But that is excessive for a $100 air rifle.

Mike T.

The weight of the scope is the cause of your problems. I can think of two ways to correct this issue and both involve increasing the area of the stop pin. Either added a second pin and hole so the forces are being spread between two pins rather than one or modify the receiver and scope mount for a larger pin.

Russ S.

This may or may not help. In my first scoped rifle, a .270, I used clear finger nail polish on all the screws on the mounts. That was in about 1968 and the scope is still on--after many many rounds.

I got a Accushot one piece mount for the Powerline scope that came with my 1000s and used Loctite on the screws. After 50-100 rounds, I haven't noticed any movement of the mount. I have the mount backed up against the metal stop that came on the 1000s. You might also try using a stainless steel screw to hold the stop. They are usually harder than the screw that comes with it.

I have really been surprised at the extra recoil of the break barrel airguns and the problems created for scopes and mounts. I'm still trying to figure out the physics of what goes on during recoil. The problem seems to be in the two way movement of the spring--forward to compress the air and then back again after the pellet leaves the chamber.

Charlie

That is exactly where the problem lies. Spring powered air guns are much tougher on scopes and mounts than the average firearm because of the double recoil. A springer has two instances of recoil...

rearward - caused by the release of the piston

forward - caused by the piston reaching the end of it's stroke (more correctly the cushion of air)

The main problem is that all of this occurs while the pellet is still in the barrel which makes the spring "hold sensitive". It must be allowed to recoil the same way for each shot or accuracy will suffer. This can be tough to master for some depending upon the gun involved (weight and ballance of the gun are major factors) but it pays off since the same practices that make you accurate with a springer will do so for firearms shooting as well.

One thing to keep in mind is that the scope he has mounted is much larger than the Powerline you have. The mass of this alone is enough to cause problems. Locking the fasteners is never a bad idea but I don't think it will be enough in this case. Very good advice though. I completely forgot to mention thread locking.

Russ S.

 

 

"The problem seems to be in the two way movement of the spring--forward to compress the air and then back again after the pellet leaves the chamber."

<i>The main problem is that all of this occurs while the pellet is still in the barrel which makes the spring "hold sensitive". It must be allowed to recoil the same way for each shot or accuracy will suffer.</i>

Thanks for this information Russ. I have heard you mention previously the greater accuracy obtained from a light hold but didn't quite understand why.
I didn't think about the slower airgun velocities, and that the pellet would still be in the barrel when both movements occur. I can see where a tight grip during recoil would exert different forces on the gun for forward movement than when it's moving to rear.

Very interesting. Old dogs like me love to learn new stuff.

Charlie---new but slowly getting there

Glad I could help Charlie! Every gun favors a certain hold. Some firm, some loose. The trick is to find which one works best and then work on repeating it during each shot. Hand placement at the forend can also be a factor. Most like the hand to be positioned within 2-3 inches of the trigger guard. I try to find the ballance point of the rifle and then place my hand there to start with.

One thing to keep in mind is that it isn't the speed of the pellet that has it in the barrel during the recoil. It is the fact that the piston must complete much of it's stroke before enough air is delivered for the pellet to break free. Another thing to keep in mind is that the piston doesn't just stop at the end of it's stroke. It actually bounces off the cushion of air between it and the pellet so it travels forward twice. Check out this demo for further clarification... http://www.arld1.com/pistonpelletdynamics.html

Take care.

Russ S.

Had the same problem. Then tried a third Ring. Bought rings for a 22cal, with mounting. thousands of rounds later still on, with no movement. worked for me.