I was just starting to have fun with my Brazilian 1000x I bought a few days ago. Out of the box, trigger was way too hard so I polished the the trigger parts with 220 and 400 sandpaper. I also lightly polished the part of the piston that catches the sear then lubed all the trigger parts with moly lube (from auto store, not moly paste). This greatly improved the trigger pull. After the trigger work, fired 70 rounds or so in it until today I had problems.

Now today, the piston catch will not stay safely engaged with the sear. Sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. The gun actually discharged once while I was closing the barrel. A good test to see if its well engaged is to cock it a second time and see if it stays engaged. Most times today, it would not stay cocked.

Is my 1000x ruined?

Update: I just disassembled the trigger, wiped off most of the grease and re-assembled. Seems to work OK (for now). Still would like to hear from some more experienced springers. Is this problem only going to get worse as it wears?

Thanks,

Todd K.

Did you actually change the shape of the sear? If so..I say you may have a big problem, because it seems to me that it's not engaging the piston the way it should. Even if matters straighten up for awhile, don't forget to use extreme caution when firing the gun..if it happened once it can certainly happen again.

No, I did not change the shape. At the very worst I might have rounded the sharp corners a bit.

Todd K.

No matter how long you've had the gun, give Daisy a call. Some of these guns are very poorly made. They will replace almost any request free of charge.

nt

i'm going to call daisy tomorrow and see. john

I did finally sort it out. But it took the skill of a professional engineer and the perseverance of terrier.

I ended up totally redesigning the sear with a dremel tool. Deepening the notch and beveling the angle of it to match the piston catch. I don't see how it worked to begin with. Poorly made as someone else mentioned. Still, if even a wiff of grease gets near the latching surface of the sear, it won't work.

Todd K.

heat treating the parts after re shaping? thought i had was they might have been case hardened, possibly poorly done and thin. the construction is all stamped and pinned, doesn't look like much quality was used. i may try the moto tool method, but wand to look at how it works more first. john

Heat treating sear after shaping.

No, it never even crossed my (errr...I mean that engineers) mind. I suppose it could matter after 10,000's of cycles. Then again it might just wear into an even better fit. It works now so I'm happy, but the squirrels are pi$$ed!

Todd K.

more then 2000 shots out of this one. maybe less. it went from heavy and rough to way to light real fast. would like to see what you did to sears. it looks to me that if to much metal is removed from the sear, then the piston catch woan't fully engage. still looking and thinking. has anybody ever tried winchester to see if they sell parts? john

Trigger modification on the Hatsan/Daisy/Winchester trigger sears can be fraught with danger.

I have a few and have done quite a few triggers now for myself and others.

Above all else, do not round the sear edges where they mate. if you are taking a dremel to them make the corners absolutely 90 degrees and sharp.

I have rescued rounded sear edges by reshaping the sear angles back to a sharp edged 90 degrees, even after removing heaps from the top and bottom surfaces that slide on each other prior to the sear disengaging.

If you still have trouble with the sears disengaging in an usafe way, try sharpening up the sear angles. Nice and crisp, but predictable let off will be the result.

FROM WHAT I HAVE HEARD, DAISY DO NOT HAVE A PARTS REPLACEMENT SYSTEM FOR THESE RIFLES.

cheers
GS