Return to Start  

I'd use a blend of Watco Danish oil and "boiled" linseed oil

June 24 2017 at 1:22 PM
Scot Laughlin  (Login classicalgas)
Group #188948

Response to stock finish

photo IMG_0751_zps0mfs0gzy.jpg

This pic is just started toward filling the grain, just two coats of wet sanded Danish oil, two with linseed in the blend. It's an older sheridan, you can see how the linseed has warmed the black walnut, and accented the color and grain.

Linseed is a traditional oil finish for guns for several enhances color and grain, it's cheap, and its easy to apply and touch up.It also rewards attention to detail and time invest

The best finishes at excluding moisture (like polyurethane) are often not the best for other reasons(appearance and easy repair are two)but whatever the finish is, ALL surfaces need to be sealed as well as possible.

Oil doesn't dry, or just soak in, it polymerizes, the molecules link up into longer chains. Certain chemicals catalyze and speed this process, as does heat and UV light. "Boiled"linseed oil has hardeners added, as do all oil finishes (varnish is an oil finish with extra hardeners)

How "deep"(and it's only a small fraction of an inch unless you use a vacuum chamber)an oil finish penetrates is mostly controlled by viscosity...water thin finishes will penetrate deeper than thicker ones. Since most oil finishes are compatible, I like to use a very thin one like danish oil to start a gunstock finish,using it straight for the first several treatments, wet sanding with increasingly fine grit, then adding boiled linseed to help fill the grain and build the finish faster, after I'm done sanding. After several rubbed in coats of the thicker oil(about 50/50 linseed/danish)have cured, I'll go back with 800 grit paper in a semi rigid pad, wetted with straight danish oil. This will level the finish better than the usual 0000 steel wool.

Note...when you wet sand with the Watco, you make a "mud" that fills the pores...let it sit until tacky, then scrub off across the grain with a an old towel or similar

Linseed also has the advantage of warming the color of the wood(it's a light honey shade)and accenting the grain and shimmer more than anything else I've tried over the decades. Tung oil, for instance is clear, and doesn't seem to pop the figure like linseed.

This message has been edited by classicalgas on Jun 24, 2017 1:31 PM

 Respond to this message   

Find more forums on Air GunsCreate your own forum at Network54
 Copyright © 1999-2017 Network54. All rights reserved.   Terms of Use   Privacy Statement  
This forum dedicated to all that enjoy collecting and restoring airguns. Have fun. Dave